History Extra Podcast: "Underwear History: Everything You Wanted to Know"

Release Date: December 15, 2024

Host and Expert

• Host: David Musgrove
• Expert: Dr. Serena Dyer, Associate Professor of Fashion History at De Montfort University

Introduction to Underwear History

In this episode of the History Extra Podcast, Dr. Serena Dyer unpacks the intricate history of underwear, exploring its evolution from basic protective garments to complex fashion statements. The conversation delves into the practical, hygienic, and societal factors that have shaped what we wear beneath our clothes today.

Origins and Definitions of Underwear

Defining Underwear:
Dr. Dyer emphasizes the complexity in defining underwear, noting that garments like loincloths, which are often considered underwear today, were once primary outerwear. "There's this interesting complication around what we are defining as underwear," she explains [03:04].

Early Examples:

• Celtic Braids: Worn by Celtic and Germanic tribes, these linen trousers served both as underwear and as supportive outerwear under animal skins and other garments [04:13].
• Animal Skins and Furs: In prehistoric times, layers of animal skins could be viewed as underwear, raising questions about their classification [03:04].

Reasons for Wearing Underwear

Dr. Dyer outlines three primary reasons for the adoption of underwear throughout history:

1. Protection:
   Underwear acted as a barrier between the body and outer garments, such as armor, protecting both the body and the outerwear from sweat and oils [04:51].

2. Hygiene:
   The introduction of linen garments like smocks and shifts facilitated better hygiene by allowing easier washing and maintenance of cleanliness [04:51].

3. Modesty and Social Significance:
   As civilizations developed, ideas about modesty and societal norms influenced the distinction between underwear and outerwear. Wearing underwear became a symbol of civilization and social status [04:51].

Underwear in the Classical World and Viking Age

Classical World:
In ancient Rome, both men and women wore specific underwear:

• Romans:
  • Subliga Culump: Linen pants resembling modern bikini bottoms [07:31].
  • Strophium: A bandeau top similar to a modern bikini for women, also worn in bathhouses [07:31].

Vikings:
Viking underwear evolved from simple linen braids to protect the body under layers of leather and armor, highlighting the practical aspects of their garments [07:31].

Underwear in the Middle Ages

Uniformity Across Genders:
During the Middle Ages, both men and women wore similar basic undergarments:

• Men: Shirts as underwear and linen trousers (braids).
• Women: Smocks, shifts, or chemises served as the primary underwear, without trousers, relying on nudity below the waist for modesty [08:58].

Medieval Bras:
Recent archaeological finds, such as fragments from Lengberg Castle in Austria, suggest that women may have worn early bra-like garments in the 15th century. These garments provided breast support without the complexity of modern bras [10:31].

The Tudor Period and Codpieces

Codpieces as Underwear:
Codpieces, worn during the 15th and 16th centuries, are classified as underwear due to their initial practical purpose of covering the crotch and protecting the outer garments. Over time, they became more elaborate and phallic, primarily as a fashion statement among elite men [13:15].

Henry VIII's Codpieces:
While codpieces were popularized during the Tudor period, notable figures like Henry VIII also sported them, despite their initial practical design, leading to both fashion innovation and ridicule [15:02].

Evolution of Daily Underwear Practices

Frequency of Changing Underwear:
In the Tudor period, the frequency of changing underwear varied by social status:

• High Status Individuals: Such as Elizabeth I, changed their linen shifts several times a day for hygiene and social engagements [15:18].
• Common Folk: Typically changed their shifts daily, often maintaining multiple shifts to alternate between laundering and wearing [15:18].

Drawers and Bloomers

Drawers:
Early drawers for women were crotchless linen tubes designed to prevent chafing and maintain modesty. These garments were rare until the 19th century, when they became more common but still lacked full coverage [17:37].

Bloomers:
Originating as outerwear in the late 19th century, bloomers evolved into practical underwear designed for activities like cycling, providing coverage and modesty while allowing movement [17:37].

Corsets: Evolution and Misconceptions

History of Corsets:
Corsets originated in the 16th century, initially called "bodies," evolving through "stays" in the 18th century to the modern corset in the 19th century. The introduction of baleen (whalebone) allowed for the structured shaping of garments, significantly influencing women's silhouettes [19:44].

Comfort and Functionality:
Contrary to popular belief, Dr. Dyer argues that corsets were not inherently uncomfortable. They provided support and improved posture, functioning as a "big hug" rather than a torture device [22:06].

Cultural Depictions:
The negative portrayal of corsets is largely attributed to 19th-century medical opinions and Hollywood's symbolic use of corsets to represent the restrictions on women’s lives [22:06].

Men and Corsets:
Interestingly, men also wore corsets in the early 19th century to achieve fashionable silhouettes, a practice that diminished as fashion trends evolved [25:50].

Petticoats and Skirt Structures

Petticoats:
Originally a visible part of an outfit in the Middle Ages, petticoats transitioned to being an underskirt by the end of the 18th century. They evolved into structured support garments through heavy starching and cording, contributing to the bell-shaped silhouettes of the time [26:57].

Wide Skirts Myths:
Dr. Dyer debunks the myth that historical wide skirts were impractical by explaining the engineering behind garments like panniers, crinolines, and bustles. These skirts were designed to be collapsible and flexible, allowing ease of movement despite their apparent size [28:47].

Key Innovations in Underwear History

1. Baleen (Whalebone): Enabled the structured design of corsets.
2. Elastic (19th Century): Revolutionized the fit and comfort of underwear.
3. Lycra (1950s): Further enhanced the elasticity and functionality of garments.
4. Technological Textiles: Modern advancements continue to influence underwear design, focusing on sweat-wicking and athletic performance [35:52].

Language and Terminology

Origin of "Knickers":
The term "knickers" emerged in 1859 as a shortened form of "knickerbockers," a term for baggy trousers worn by men. It became a common nickname and has persisted in modern usage [31:12].

Invention of Y Fronts:
Y fronts were introduced in the 1930s by Arthur Niebler as an innovative solution to the codpiece's functional gaps. This design became immensely popular, revolutionizing men's underwear [31:36].

Creation of the G-String:
The G-string was invented in the 1970s by Austrian-American designer Rusli Gernrich. It emerged as a response to California's legislation against nude sunbathing, intending to maximize skin exposure while complying with the law [32:21].

Broader Societal Implications

Reflection of Societal Trends:
Underwear history mirrors broader societal changes in beauty standards, hygiene practices, and technological advancements. Shifts in underwear design reflect evolving notions of attractiveness, cleanliness, and material innovation [34:40].

Misconceptions Challenged:
Dr. Dyer challenges common misconceptions, emphasizing that historical underwear was often innovative and purpose-driven rather than impractical or solely ornamental. Reenactments and modern recreations highlight the functionality and engineering behind these garments [36:55].

Conclusion

Dr. Serena Dyer concludes that underwear has always been a blend of protection, hygiene, modesty, and fashion. Understanding its history provides insight into societal values, technological progress, and cultural norms across different eras. The evolution of underwear is a testament to human ingenuity in adapting clothing to meet changing needs and aesthetic preferences.

Notable Quotes

• Dr. Serena Dyer [03:04]: "There's this interesting complication around what we are defining as underwear."
• Dr. Serena Dyer [04:51]: "The main difference for men though is that they might wear those braids… women didn't wear anything like that."
• Dr. Serena Dyer [22:06]: "They're like a big hug in a garment. They're incredibly good."
• Dr. Serena Dyer [24:47]: "There is absolutely a fashion trend that's seeing the return of the corset, but more as outerwear than as underwear."
• Dr. Serena Dyer [36:55]: "Most historical underwear was really clever and was for a purpose and fulfilled that purpose really well."

Further Resources

For more in-depth exploration of historical fashion and expert insights, visit HistoryExtra.com.