Podcast Summary: History Extra Podcast – "Zoot suits, mashers & New Romantics: the evolution of the dandy"

Release Date: August 12, 2025

Introduction

In this engaging episode of the History Extra Podcast, hosted by Ellie Cawthorne and produced by Immediate Media, historian and author Peter Anderson delves into the fascinating evolution of dandyism. Drawing from his insightful book, "The Dandy: A People's History of Sartorial Splendor", Anderson explores how the concept of the dandy transcended elite boundaries, influencing ordinary men across various social strata from the early 19th century to the late 20th century.

Defining the Dandy

Peter Anderson begins by redefining the traditional notion of a dandy. Contrary to the elite image often portrayed in historical accounts, Anderson focuses on ordinary men from the lower middle classes who aspired to dandyism. He states:

“...ordinary men from the lower strata of society who try to be dandies... they all wore suits, they all wore a sort of tie and so on.”
(01:07)

Social Classes and Professions

Anderson highlights that dandies predominantly emerged from the lower middle classes, including professions such as shop assistants, office clerks, apprentices, and domestic servants. The rise of prosperity among younger generations in the 20th century, coupled with a burgeoning media landscape, facilitated the spread of dandy subcultures beyond localized areas.

Global Spread of Dandyism

While dandyism originated in Western Europe and America, its influence gradually became global, especially through periods of globalism and colonialism. Anderson notes:

“In the 19th century you can find portraits of New Zealand chiefs dressed in a black tie. So of course it becomes a global issue.”
(03:22)

However, true global subcultures didn’t fully materialize until the late 20th century.

Opposition and Societal Criticism

Dandyism often faced significant opposition. Anderson explains that dandies were perceived as socially rebellious and disreputable, partly because they were upstarts from lower social classes. This led to societal anxiety and criticism, with dandies frequently being associated with criminality and anti-establishment behavior.

Gender Dynamics and Homosexuality

A recurring theme in the critique of dandyism was its perceived femininity, challenging traditional masculine norms. Anderson remarks:

“A lot of these different dandy cultures were accused of feminacy... but they're also often very much very heterosexual subcultures.”
(05:34)

Moreover, there were notable connections between dandyism and homosexuality, including instances of male brothels and transgender expressions within dandy subcultures, particularly in interwar Paris and Berlin.

Notable Dandy Subcultures

Mashers (1880s London), zoot suiters (1940s America), and New Romantics (1980s) are some of the highlighted subcultures. These groups were characterized by their distinctive and often extreme fashions, which served as symbols of their countercultural identities.

Black Dandyism

Anderson emphasizes the significant role of black dandies, especially among African Americans in the 19th century. These individuals not only embraced dandyism as a form of self-expression but also as a subtle form of resistance against societal oppression. An example includes black men in the mid-19th century who refused to move from their seats on streetcars, prefiguring acts of civil disobedience like Rosa Parks.

Countercultural Nature of Dandyism

Dandy subcultures were inherently countercultural, challenging societal norms and rejecting established standards. Anderson asserts:

“They are sort of provocative, disruptive, they try to deviate from the norms of the older generations...”
(19:58)

Evolution of Masculinity

The transformation of dandyism over two centuries reflects broader shifts in masculinity. Early dandies looked up to the elite, while later movements drew inspiration from the working class and celebrity culture. This shift signifies a move away from aristocratic influence towards more democratic and diverse expressions of masculinity.

Modern Inheritors: The Hipster

Although Anderson posits that popular dandyism largely ceased by the end of the 20th century, he theorizes that hipsters may be the contemporary successors of dandyism. This comparison underscores the continuity of individual style and countercultural ethos in modern fashion subcultures.

Personal Taste: Congolese Sapper Culture

When asked about his favorite dandy subculture purely based on fashion, Anderson expresses a particular fondness for the Congolese Sapper culture:

“They can wear pink suits, very colorful ties, bow ties, hats, buttonholes, anything like that.”
(25:28)

He appreciates their vibrant and colorful attire, which stands out vividly in the history of dandyism.

Conclusion

In this episode, Peter Anderson provides a comprehensive exploration of dandyism as a dynamic and evolving subculture that spanned over two centuries. By shifting the focus from elite figures to ordinary men, Anderson sheds light on the broader social and cultural implications of sartorial expressions. His analysis not only uncovers the resilience and adaptability of dandyism but also its role in challenging and redefining masculine norms throughout history.

For a deeper dive into the history of dandyism, listeners are encouraged to explore Peter Anderson’s book, "The Dandy: A People's History of Sartorial Splendor".

Notable Quotes:

• Peter Anderson on defining dandyism:
  “...ordinary men from the lower strata of society who try to be dandies... they all wore suits, they all wore a sort of tie and so on.”
  (01:07)

• On the global spread of zoot suits:
  “But when these riots occurred and became big news, that's the sort of story that was told about them.”
  (16:56)

• On black dandyism as resistance:
  “...this is 100 years before Rosa Parks on the bus. But it's still the same behavior...”
  (18:28)

About the History Extra Podcast:

Produced by the team behind BBC History Magazine, History Extra is a free podcast released six times a week. It offers gripping stories from the past and engaging conversations with leading historical experts, covering a wide range of eras and topics from the ancient world to the modern day.

For more insights and full episode access, visit HistoryExtra.com.