Home Cooking — "Apricot Girl Summer"

Released: August 29, 2025 | Hosts: Samin Nosrat & Hrishikesh Hirway

Episode Overview

In this episode of Home Cooking, Samin and Rishi welcome listeners back for a new season under the summer sun, diving into the joyful chaos of seasonal fruit, homemade jam, and family recipes. The show explores everything from creative uses for rhubarb, the art and science of canning, and troubleshooting peach jam, to the meaning and memory embedded in food. The hosts also tackle iron-rich meals, the role of copper in cooking, and help a listener rediscover a beloved family dish through the "Chef Detective" segment with a special guest. As always, the episode is filled with playful banter, food wisdom, and a few poignant moments.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Comfort Food and Pandemic Eating (00:46–02:38)

• Samin describes craving "kindergartner lunchbox" foods as a comfort during stressful times: PB&J on white bread, string cheese, and a "cacophony" of C-ingredient salads (cucumber, corn, cabbage, cherry tomatoes, cilantro).

• Humorous recounting of Rishi’s pantry—devoid of snacks, full of dry beans and whole ingredients, prompting Samin's “teenage nightmare” snack quest.

  Notable quote:

  • "I only want to eat foods that are appropriate in a kindergartner's lunchbox." — Samin (01:46)

2. Memory Lane: Boiled Peanuts in Georgia (03:46–06:34)

• Rishi shares a touching story about searching for boiled peanuts in Georgia during a family road trip, reconnecting with his mother's traditions after outgrowing his peanut allergy.

• Samin explains the difference between boiled peanuts and roasted ones, emphasizing the creamy, "al dente but creamy" texture reminiscent of edamame.

  Notable quote:

  • "They’ve absorbed all that seasoned water...almost al dente but creamy." — Rishi (06:17)

3. Rhubarb 101 & Creative Uses (09:44–14:23)

• Listener Q&A: Rhubarb questions from Melissa & Alon in Portland.

  • Samin describes the characteristics and regional differences of rhubarb: color, tartness, and why leaves are poisonous.
  • Non-dessert uses: Roast with oil and salt for a tangy addition to veggie dishes, or try Persian-style rhubarb stew (sans meat)—suggested vegetarian adaptation by Naz Deravian with chickpeas and herbs.

• Samin explains that rhubarb’s sourness is truly unique, making it hard to find savory comparisons.

  Notable quote:

  • "Persians love sour things...that’s maybe one of my favorite non-dessert ways to enjoy rhubarb." — Samin (14:12)

4. The Science of Jam-Making & Canning (14:23–19:29)

• On sugar’s multiple roles (sweetener, preservative, texture). Low-sugar jams mold quickly and aren't shelf stable; 25% sugar by weight is Samin’s “minimum viable” guideline for safety and texture.

• Pectin, acid, sugar, and cooking time all balance to ensure proper jam set and safety.

  Notable quote:

  • “A lot of people love their low sugar recipes...by the time I've opened it, it's moldy.” — Samin (15:42)

5. Troubleshooting Gummy Peach Jam & Making the Most of Preserves (19:41–26:13)

• Samin helps Katrina in Vermont repurpose peach "not-jam" (gummy peaches in syrup):

  • Use syrup for spritzers, Bellinis, or summer drinks.
  • Mash and recook peaches for cake or use as a filling for Hungarian shortbread (Dorie Greenspan’s recipe) or Italian jam crostata.

• Rishi recalls Rebecca Solnit’s quote on preserves as "a capsule in which time stands still" (24:07).

• Samin reflects on the emotional resonance of making and eating preserves, connecting to memories like making apricot jam while her father was in the hospital.

  Notable quote:

  • “For me, it’s a time machine...even when things don’t turn out perfectly, I get to return to a moment in time.” — Samin (24:14)

6. How Long Does Homemade Jam Last? (26:13–27:16)

• Samin admits expiration guidance is conservative and recipes err on the side of caution; at home, she’ll eat preserves well past "use by" dates, as long as they look, smell, and taste fine.

  Memorable moment:

  • Rishi: “I still have [your apricot jam] in there...every six months, I’ll take a tiny edge of a spoonful.”
  • Samin: “I should have eaten it when I was going through your fridge and needed something to eat...” (26:13)

7. Jam Rituals, Apricots, and the Writing of Recipes (28:12–29:39)

• The ritual and unpredictability of apricot jam-making: Samin and Rishi read aloud Samin’s writing from her new book, resulting in playful discomfort and affectionate teasing.
• Apricots symbolizing the fleeting nature of seasons and ritual in Samin's culinary life.

8. The Role of Copper in Jam & Pastry (29:51–33:21)

• Samin explains why copper pots are ideal for jam (superior heat conduction allows quicker processing, preserving fresh fruit flavor).

• Copper bowls: their main practical use is whipping egg whites, due to a chemical reaction that stabilizes proteins.

  Notable quote:

  • “One of my goals as a jam maker is to cook the fruit as little as possible...because copper is such a great heat conductor...” — Samin (30:33)

9. Iron-Rich Food for Vegetarians (39:06–42:27)

• Helping Aryeh in Oakland find iron-rich foods for his pregnant wife:

  • Meat options: chicken livers, beef liver.
  • Non-meat: legumes (especially kidney beans), greens (collards, kale, spinach). Samin suggests Persian stew gormeh sabzi with/without meat and kidney beans, or chili.
  • Vitamin C-rich foods help with absorption (e.g., tomatoes, citrus alongside iron-rich dishes).

  Notable quote:

  • “There are certain foods that help the absorption of minerals...so you want to add citrus into a dish with any of these ingredients.” — Samin (41:55)

10. Turmeric Milk & Ingredient Pairing (42:41–44:16)

• Rishi discusses making golden milk and the importance of combining black pepper with turmeric to increase curcumin absorption.

  Notable quote:

  • “You get 400% better absorption if there’s some black pepper along with the turmeric.” — Rishi (43:39)

11. Chef Detective: Rediscovering Mom’s Braised Beef Noodle Soup (46:19–53:28)

• Listener Angie asks for help reconstructing her late mother’s licorice-flavored braised beef noodle soup from Beijing.

• Samin brings in culinary friend Emily Sue Bowden for expertise.

  • Emily identifies it as "hongshao niurou tang" (red-braised beef noodle soup) and explains probable ingredients: rock sugar caramelization, beef shank, star anise, various spices (cinnamon, clove, cardamom), soy sauce, and Chinese cooking wine.
  • Carrots or daikon may be family additions.
  • Tips on assembly: braise meat, cook noodles separately, then bring together with broth and toppings.

  Notable quotes:

  • “Red-braised...things that are braised with soy sauce are often called red-braised, even though they’re not actually red.” — Emily (48:05)
  • “Every home cook has their own thing...all the moms have their different way or their different spin or twist.” — Emily (52:00)

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• “I only want to eat foods that are appropriate in a kindergartner's lunchbox.” — Samin (01:46)
• “For me, it’s a time machine...even when things don’t turn out perfectly, I get to return to a moment in time.” — Samin (24:14)
• “Red-braised...things that are braised with soy sauce are often called red-braised, even though they’re not actually red.” — Emily (48:05)
• “The kind of mold that’s going to happen on a jar of jam is not a lethal, scary, toxic kind. So if there is mold, you just scrape it off and throw it away.” — Samin (26:08)
• Samin’s discomfort as Rishi reads her writing aloud provides comic relief and highlights the authentic, teasing dynamic between the hosts. (28:45–29:39)

Timestamps For Key Segments

| Segment | Timestamp | |---------|--------------------| | Kindergarten Lunchbox Foods | 00:46 – 02:38 | | Boiled Peanuts in Georgia | 03:46 – 06:34 | | Rhubarb 101 & Uses | 09:44 – 14:23 | | Jam Science/Canning Safety | 14:23 – 19:29 | | Gummy Peach Jam Solutions | 19:41 – 26:13 | | Jam Longevity/Use-By Dates | 26:13 – 27:16 | | Apricot Rituals/Recipe Reading | 28:12 – 29:39 | | Copper Bowls vs Pots | 29:51 – 33:21 | | Iron-Rich Veggie Foods | 39:06 – 42:27 | | Turmeric Milk Absorption | 42:41 – 44:16 | | Chef Detective: Braised Beef Noodle | 46:19 – 53:28 |

Tone and Style

• Warm, joyful, affectionate, and reliably irreverent.
• Deeply personal and nostalgic, especially when discussing memories and food as a time capsule.
• Playful teasing and wordplay are frequent, especially around recipe reading and puns (“rhubarbaric,” “conserves,” “industrial jams”).
• Practical, accessible cooking advice punctuated by science, storytelling, and cultural context.

Additional Resources & References

• Persian rhubarb stew: vegetarian version by Naz Deravian.
• Baking references: Dorie Greenspan's "Hungarian Shortbread" and Michel Polzine's "Bulgarian Shortbread."
• The book Good Things, Samin's upcoming/new release.
• Film rec: The Taste of Things (2023), highly recommended by both hosts for food lovers.
• Berkeley Bowl as a Bay Area must-visit for food enthusiasts.
• Home Cooking show merch and newsletters (subscribing info provided).

Summary

"Apricot Girl Summer" is quintessential Home Cooking: deeply knowledgeable, laughter-filled, and grounded in the meaning that food carries in our lives. The episode walks a delightful path through practical cooking science, personal ritual, and listener care, offering recipes and advice, but more so, holding space for memory, connection, and the sweetness of food as acts of love—even when your jam doesn’t set!