Podcast Summary:
How I Built My Small Business with Anne McGinty
Episode Title: Chris Smith – What it really takes to run Award-Winning SONOMA PIZZA CO.
Date: September 9, 2025
Overview of the Episode
In this episode, Anne McGinty interviews Chris Smith, co-founder of Sonoma Pizza Co., a celebrated artisan pizzeria in Forestville, California. The conversation is a candid exploration of what it truly takes to build and operate a renowned restaurant in a small wine country town. Chris shares the behind-the-scenes realities—the hurdles, mindset shifts, financial struggles, and community-building moments—that have shaped Sonoma Pizza Co. since its founding in 2022.
Key Discussion Points & Insights
Chris’s Journey from Nightlife to Pizza (01:28–03:45)
- Background: Chris details his 30-year career in San Francisco’s music and nightlife industry before shifting to food and hospitality.
- Spark for Pizza: His fascination started at Zachary’s Chicago deep-dish in Oakland and grew over two decades.
- Pizzaiolo Training: Trained under Tony Gemignani and Laura Meyer, mastering Neapolitan pizza and wood-fired baking.
"I got the crash course in making Neapolitan wood fire pizza. Learned that and bought an oven and just started kind of practicing the craft." (02:45 – Chris)
- Forestville Move: Chris and his wife Etta moved to Forestville pre-COVID, seized the opportunity to buy and transform a non-restaurant property into Sonoma Pizza Co. Major infrastructure overhauls were needed.
- Initial Financial Challenge: Budget “was not even close to enough”—project ended up costing three times as much as forecasted.
The Planning Process: From Idea to Opening (04:26–08:36)
- Resourcefulness: Chris and Etta had “zero dollars in the bank” and jumpstarted the business by pulling a line of credit and fundraising among friends and family.
- Bootstrapped Growth: As more funds trickled in—including a $300,000 COVID outdoor dining grant—they expanded the project to include a backyard and more amenities.
- Design: Etta led interior and core design, handling every finish and detail together over multiple years.
- Persistence: Many obstacles with property use conversion, permits, and sourcing funds.
“If you want to do it bad enough to where you just take the first step and then you keep taking steps... It will probably come together for you.” (08:17 – Chris)
Staffing, Sourcing, and Building a Team (08:36–09:41)
- Staffing Challenges: Finding hospitality-oriented staff in a small town was tough.
- Relied on two industry friends from San Francisco to move up and help build systems, train staff, and establish operations.
- "If we didn't have them, we would never have made it." (09:15 – Chris)
- Menu Development: Collaborated with executive chef Carl Shelton to perfect the pizza dough and sauces, prioritizing quality and local, organic ingredients over market trends.
The Realities of Restaurant Profitability (11:03–13:31)
- Never “Making It”: Despite being packed, profitability remains elusive.
“I'm still waiting for that moment, actually... we're barely making a profit now.” (11:05 – Chris)
- High Costs:
- Labor, taxes, property taxes, and fire insurance add up significantly.
- California’s cost of living and wages drive expenses much higher than outsiders realize.
- Outdoor space buildup funded in part by grant, but ongoing expenses continue.
- Margins:
- Aim is 10% profit as a “first benchmark,” with 20% as an ideal (rarely reached).
- Chris explains prime cost: labor plus cost of sales should aim for 60–65%.
“You want to try to hit a 60% prime cost, 65 would be the top end... anything above that, this business is not really profitable.” (14:42 – Chris)
The Ongoing Struggle & What Most Don’t See (15:04–16:04)
- Busy ≠ Profitable: A packed restaurant can still lose money if financials aren’t tightly controlled.
- Behind the Curtain: Many seemingly successful restaurants close because they’re not making enough money to sustain operations.
- Systematization:
- Constant need to become more efficient, improve staffing quality, and fine-tune costs.
- Emphasis on continual improvement: "We're tightening our cost of sales. Now we're down to 27%." (14:08 – Chris)
Hardest Challenges Along the Way (16:04–17:42)
- Access to Capital: Raising initial and ongoing funding was the biggest challenge.
- Relied on leveraging property for bank loans and managed to secure a difficult SBA loan after a year-long process.
- Upholding Standards: Maintaining the quality of food and hospitality with the right team—hiring is as critical as financing.
- Chris admits having “bad apples” in the team but stresses the importance of alignment and attitude.
Hiring, Culture, and Staff Retention (17:42–19:12)
- Philosophy: "Hire slow, fire fast." Find people who truly buy into the vision.
- Reality Check: Restaurant work is grueling; Chris is honest with staff about the demands and encourages those who don’t love it to move on.
“You got to really enjoy it. And if you don't, this is what I told myself, go do something else... life is short, so you got to really enjoy this work.” (18:52 – Chris)
Community Impact and Broader Definition of Success (19:12–20:12)
- Beyond the Food: Emphasizes hospitality as creating an experience and a “little escape” for guests.
- The restaurant is now a de facto community center in Forestville.
“They're not just coming for food. They're coming to have an experience, to have a little escape... That’s the service that we’re providing.” (19:48 – Chris)
- Value of Respect: Staff are reminded to treat diners’ time and money with deep respect.
Drawing on Past Experience (20:12–22:44)
- Industry Evolution: Came from owning a record label (Om Records), clubs, and event spaces—found running the pizzeria much harder.
- Parenthood: Added layer of challenge, having a young child as the restaurant opened.
- Advice from Experience: Regrets spreading himself too thin across multiple ventures. Now focuses just on the restaurant and family.
“Focus is important. Right now... this is all I'm doing. And it's like, it's my focus, raising my son and, and doing the restaurant.” (22:29 – Chris)
Advice to Aspiring Restaurateurs (22:44–24:54)
- Start by Working in a Restaurant: Urges would-be founders to get hands-on experience, identify their strengths (chef vs. hospitality), and partner with complementary talent.
- Business Planning: Begin with a realistic, working financial model—know your projected numbers for each day.
- Iterative Projections: Even if wrong, you must have a working cash flow projection and continually update it.
“You just gotta do it. You just gotta make it up and go, it's a Sunday night, it's September. How many people do we think are going to come in the door?” (25:17 – Chris)
Common Mistakes & Longevity in Hospitality (26:26–27:53)
- Good Restaurants Still Close: Quality alone isn’t enough—the resilience to “fight” through problems is critical.
- Constant Problem-Solving: Running a restaurant is a continuous process of putting out fires and adapting.
“Once your business is up and running, you're gonna have to go to battle over and over again... If you give up on the battle, you close.” (26:56 – Chris) “That's the job in business is solving problems... when you're running a business, you're going to solve problems.” (27:45 – Chris)
Life Wisdom & Looking Back (27:53–29:03)
- Advice to Younger Self: “Don’t try to do too much—focus more, and try not to do too many things at once.”
- Deep vs. Wide:
"It's like narrow but deep." (29:00 – Anne)
"Yes, narrow but deep." (29:00 – Chris)
Notable Quotes & Moments
- “If you want to do it bad enough... it will probably come together for you.” – Chris (08:17)
- “We have zero dollars in the bank. So it was kind of a—we had to, like, will it into being every step of the way.” – Chris (04:59)
- “I'm still waiting for that moment, actually...” – Chris on when he felt Sonoma Pizza Co. had “made it” (11:05)
- “You're just like constantly putting out fires. Problem solving one thing after the other.” – Anne (27:40)
- “Do it because you love it, not because you want to make tons of money. And finally, focus. Don't try and do too many things at once. Instead, keep your focus narrow but deep, and learn how to say no.” – Anne, summarizing key takeaways (29:38)
Timestamps for Key Segments
- Chris’s Background & Pizza Discovery: 01:28–03:45
- Acquiring & Converting the Property: 03:49–08:36
- Staffing & Menu Development Challenges: 08:49–10:54
- Financial Realities & Margins Explained: 11:03–13:31
- Systematizing for Efficiency: 13:35–15:44
- Biggest Hardships & Hiring Philosophy: 16:04–19:12
- Hospitality as Community Building: 19:12–20:12
- Lessons from Nightlife & Music Industry: 20:12–22:44
- Advice for Aspiring Owners: 22:44–26:26
- Restaurant Mistakes & Perseverance: 26:26–27:53
- Advice to Younger Self & Closing Wisdom: 27:53–29:03
Episode Key Takeaways
- Busy isn’t the same as profitable—tight control of labor and food costs is essential.
- Budgets will likely be wrong—expect to need double or triple.
- Culture and team are paramount—hire slow, fire fast, and invest in truly aligned staff.
- Know your prime cost: Keep labor + cost of sales ≤60% for viability.
- Work in the industry before starting your own business.
- Find partners who balance your strengths and weaknesses.
- Continual problem-solving and relentless focus are keys to long-term survival.
- Above all, do it for love of hospitality—financial reward is neither easy nor guaranteed.
- Deep, sustained focus is better than spreading yourself thin.
This episode is essential listening for anyone considering entrepreneurship in hospitality—or any small business—offering a rare, honest look at the grit, heart, and hustle it takes to build a beloved local brand.
