How I Built This with Guy Raz: Exclusive Update on Daniel Humm and Eleven Madison Park
Episode Release Date: August 13, 2025
In this special episode of How I Built This with Guy Raz, host Guy Raz delves into the transformative journey of Daniel Humm, the renowned chef and owner of Eleven Madison Park (EMP) in New York City. Known for revolutionizing the fine dining scene, Humm's bold decisions have continually pushed the boundaries of culinary excellence. This episode provides an in-depth update on EMP's latest strategic pivot, exploring the motivations, challenges, and future aspirations behind Humm's choices.
1. Introduction and Background
Guy Raz opens the episode by contextualizing Daniel Humm's previous landmark decision in 2021 to transition Eleven Madison Park to a fully plant-based restaurant. This move was unprecedented, especially for a restaurant that had previously been lauded as the world's greatest and held three Michelin stars consistently since 2012.
Notable Quote:
Daniel Humm [02:58]: "After becoming the best restaurant in the world and having had three Michelin stars for a decade, we reached the number one spot in the world. And I started to feel a little restless. Creatively..."
2. Transition to a Plant-Based Menu
Humm and his team embarked on an ambitious journey to eliminate all animal products from EMP's menu. This shift required a complete overhaul of their culinary practices, from sourcing new ingredients to mastering plant-based techniques. They introduced innovative elements like tanburi, a cypress seed from Japan that mimics the texture and flavor of caviar, and redefined classic preparations using only plant-derived components.
Notable Quote:
Daniel Humm [08:20]: "There could not have been anything more exciting. Also, I think there's so much magic in the cooking. It's almost like alchemy..."
3. Challenges and Industry Backlash
The transition was not without its hurdles. EMP faced significant backlash both within the culinary industry and among its loyal patrons. Critics viewed the move as politically motivated, while some diners felt alienated, perceiving the restaurant as catering exclusively to plant-based eaters. Additionally, operational costs surged due to the need for specialized staff and more intricate preparation processes.
Notable Quote:
Guy Raz [11:09]: "Our decision created a global debate that far transcended food."
4. Achieving Michelin Recognition
Despite the controversies, Eleven Madison Park's commitment to excellence did not waver. The restaurant achieved a historic milestone by becoming the first purely plant-based establishment to earn three Michelin stars. This accolade underscored EMP's influence and set a new standard in fine dining, demonstrating that luxury cuisine could be both innovative and sustainable.
Notable Quote:
Unknown Guest [15:35]: "What would happen?"
Daniel Humm [15:37]: "I was very nervous because I knew how crucial it was and how much of a milestone this would be in the world of cuisine..."
5. Financial Sustainability Concerns
While EMP continued to receive stellar reviews and maintain full bookings, the business model faced financial strains. The high costs associated with plant-based sourcing, coupled with a reduced average spend per diner, made sustaining profitability challenging. The reliance on affluent patrons for expensive wine sales further complicated financial stability, especially in a city with exorbitant operating costs like New York.
Notable Quote:
Unknown Guest [16:52]: "We definitely saw a dip in revenue because the audience we're catering to became a lot smaller."
6. Strategic Pivot: Reintroducing Animal Products
In response to these challenges, Daniel Humm announced a strategic pivot to reintroduce select animal products into EMP's menu starting in October. This decision aimed to balance the restaurant's creative integrity with broader market appeal. The reintroduction focuses on specific items like fish and shellfish, ensuring that the core plant-based philosophy remains intact while offering options that cater to diverse preferences.
Notable Quote:
Unknown Guest [20:03]: "I understand now that for most dining at a plant-based restaurant is more of a life choice than a choice of cuisine."
7. Reflections on Leadership and Evolution
Humm candidly discusses the internal struggles and self-doubt that accompanied this monumental decision. Leading a team of over 200 people, many of whom joined EMP specifically for its plant-based ethos, presented significant leadership challenges. However, Humm emphasizes the importance of continuous evolution and adaptability, asserting that staying static would ultimately hinder the restaurant's relevance and success.
Notable Quote:
Unknown Guest [34:08]: "I'm full of self doubt, especially with where we are going next..."
8. The Future of Fine Dining
Humm offers a broader perspective on the fine dining industry's sustainability, emphasizing the role of chefs and restaurateurs in shaping the future of food. He likens fine dining to cultural institutions like ballet or classical music, underscoring its importance in setting trends and educating both chefs and patrons. Humm believes that fine dining will continue to thrive by balancing tradition with innovation.
Notable Quote:
Unknown Guest [39:30]: "This cannot be in the hands of politics. This has to be in the hands of chefs and farmers and the people actually on the ground."
9. Vision for the Future
Looking ahead, Daniel Humm envisions Eleven Madison Park as a perpetually evolving entity that remains inclusive and innovative. By reintroducing select animal products, EMP aims to attract a wider audience while maintaining its commitment to sustainability and culinary excellence. Humm aspires for the restaurant to remain a beacon of fine dining for decades to come, fostering a culture of creativity and inclusivity.
Notable Quote:
Unknown Guest [42:00]: "It is something I want to see fully through. And in a weird way, I feel like for the first time ever, the restaurant feels complete after 20 years being there."
Conclusion
This episode of How I Built This Lab offers a profound look into the dynamic and often challenging world of high-end culinary entrepreneurship. Daniel Humm's journey with Eleven Madison Park highlights the delicate balance between artistic innovation and business sustainability. His willingness to adapt and pivot in response to both internal and external pressures serves as a testament to his resilience and visionary leadership in the ever-evolving landscape of fine dining.
For those interested in the full breadth of Daniel Humm's journey, including the original 2021 interview, additional resources and links are available in the show notes.
