How I Built This with Guy Raz: Norma Kamali Episode Summary

Introduction

In this compelling episode of How I Built This with Guy Raz, Guy Raz sits down with Norma Kamali, the legendary fashion designer renowned for her innovative designs such as the sleeping bag coat, hot pants, and the iconic red bathing suit worn by Farrah Fawcett. Hosted by Guy Raz and produced by Wondery, this episode delves deep into Kamali's entrepreneurial journey, exploring her triumphs, challenges, and the creative genius that has sustained her brand for over five decades.

Early Life and Inspirations

Norma Kamali was born in the 1950s in Manhattan, growing up in the vibrant immigrant neighborhood of Yorkville. Her multicultural background, with a Lebanese mother and Basque father, played a significant role in shaping her creative outlook. Tragically, at the age of 13, Norma lost both her father and stepfather, leaving her to be raised primarily by her mother.

“[07:18] Norma Kamali: My mother always had an easel with oil paints where she was in the middle of an oil painting while she was cooking some incredible dish that she just created... I was drawing very early. I was doing creative things for as long as I can remember, and it was great satisfaction for me.”

Growing up, Norma was deeply influenced by her mother's creativity, which fostered her own passion for art and design. Despite her affinity for painting, Norma's practical mother advised her against pursuing art full-time, steering her towards a more stable career path.

Education and Early Career

Norma secured a scholarship to the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), where she chose to study fashion illustration over fashion design. At the time, American fashion was heavily influenced by European brands, and the concept of American designers establishing their own unique brands was still emerging.

“[08:42] Norma Kamali: I decided on FIT because my mother was very clear that she didn't think painting was actually going to help me pay the rent...”

During her time at FIT in the early 1960s, Norma developed a disdain for the rigid and conservative styles prevalent in fashion, such as girdles and garter belts. Instead, she was captivated by the vibrant and expressive styles from vintage films of the 1930s and 1940s, often frequenting secondhand stores to find inspiration.

First Foray into Entrepreneurship

After graduating from FIT, Norma faced her first professional setback during a job interview at a garment manufacturer. Despite feeling confident in her portfolio, she encountered a humiliating rejection that left her devastated. Undeterred, she pivoted to an unexpected opportunity by securing a job at Northwest Orient Airlines.

“[14:47] Norma Kamali: And so I, of course, didn't want to be a stewardess, and I had zero office skills. But I went for the job because I thought, I want to travel. That's what I want to do.”

Working as a reservations specialist, Norma leveraged her airline benefits to travel to London frequently. These trips exposed her to the cutting-edge fashion scene in London, particularly the vibrant culture of Carnaby Street during the 1960s. Inspired by the eclectic styles and the music scene, Norma began bringing back fashionable clothing from London to New York, catering to a growing demand among her friends and community.

Launching the Kamali Brand

Recognizing the potential of her unique imports, Norma and her husband Eddie Kamali opened their own boutique, Kamali, on East 53rd Street in Midtown Manhattan in 1968. The store quickly gained traction, attracting a diverse clientele and garnering attention from prominent fashion magazines like Vogue and Bazaar.

“[33:19] Norma Kamali: I don't know if there is a term for what the clothing was at that time to be honest. They were very creative. Mainly one of a kind pieces, handcrafted...”

Eddie took charge of the business side, while Norma focused on design. Their partnership proved fruitful, with Norma’s innovative designs resonating with the fashion-forward crowd. As Norma's creations gained popularity, the store became a hub for celebrities and influential figures, further elevating the Kamali brand's status.

Challenges and Transformation

Despite early successes, the Kamali partnership began to strain due to personal and professional differences. Eddie's lifestyle, characterized by partying and substance abuse, contrasted sharply with Norma's dedication to the business. This discord ultimately led to their separation and the dissolution of their joint venture.

Faced with mounting challenges and the collapse of the Kamali store, Norma found herself at a crossroads. With limited financial resources, she sought help and guidance, realizing the importance of networking and asking for assistance.

“[66:09] Guy Raz: Wow. So you. I mean, this was a business that you started. I mean, that store Kamali presumably had to shut down.

[66:18] Norma Kamali: Well, he kept it going for a while. ...”

Determined to rebuild, Norma launched Omo (On My Own) in 1978 on 56th Street. This new venture marked a turning point, allowing her to regain control over her designs and business operations. Through resilience and creativity, Norma introduced groundbreaking designs like the sleeping bag coat, which became an iconic piece synonymous with her brand.

Innovations and Iconic Designs

Norma Kamali's ability to blend functionality with style set her apart in the fashion industry. The sleeping bag coat, inspired by her love for camping, was a revolutionary design that merged casual comfort with high fashion. This piece not only became a staple in her collection but also influenced mainstream fashion trends.

“[50:00] Norma Kamali: ...I said, I'm not getting out of my sleeping bag. It's coming with me. So I wrapped it around myself, and as I was wrapped in it, I thought, you know, I think I'm going to go back and make a coat out of this.”

Her designs, characterized by innovative use of materials and bold aesthetics, continued to gain acclaim. Farrah Fawcett’s red bathing suit, designed by Kamali, became a cultural phenomenon and is preserved in the Smithsonian Museum in Washington, D.C.

Strategic Partnerships and Expansion

In the early 2000s, Norma Kamali made a strategic partnership with Walmart, a move that was initially met with skepticism given Walmart's reputation as a mass-market retailer. However, Norma's focus on affordability and comfort aligned seamlessly with Walmart's customer base.

“[81:16] Norma Kamali: Affordable? So to me, Value is also really important that you're able to pay the rent and still have something you love...”

This collaboration allowed Norma to reach a broader audience, democratizing high-quality fashion and reinforcing her commitment to accessible style. The partnership not only expanded her brand's footprint but also reinforced her philosophy that beautiful clothes shouldn't be prohibitively expensive.

Reinvention and Legacy

Norma Kamali's entrepreneurial journey is a testament to her unwavering commitment to innovation and adaptability. From her early days managing a boutique to her strategic alliances with major retailers like Walmart, Norma has consistently evolved her brand to stay relevant in a dynamic industry.

Her legacy extends beyond her iconic designs; Norma has also been a pioneer in embracing technology and sustainability in fashion. By integrating modern advancements and maintaining a focus on comfort and affordability, she has ensured that her brand remains influential and enduring.

“[86:46] Norma Kamali: ...I do well when I'm doing a lot of different things because I find each of them inspires the other and keeps things very exciting...”

Reflections on Success and Personal Growth

Throughout the episode, Norma emphasizes the importance of passion, resilience, and the support of a strong network. She acknowledges the role of both hard work and serendipity in her success, believing that her dedication to her craft and openness to opportunities have been crucial.

“[93:09] Norma Kamali: First of all, yes, you have to work really hard... I do think the universe has a big plan for us. And you can call it luck, but I think it's even more than that. I think we do things because that's what we should be doing.”

Norma's story is not just about building a successful business but also about personal empowerment and embracing one's journey. Her insights offer valuable lessons for aspiring entrepreneurs on navigating challenges, maintaining authenticity, and continuously innovating.

Conclusion

Norma Kamali's episode on How I Built This offers an inspiring narrative of creativity, perseverance, and strategic thinking. From humble beginnings to becoming a fashion icon, Norma's journey underscores the significance of passion-driven entrepreneurship and the ability to adapt in a constantly changing landscape. Her legacy continues to influence the fashion industry, embodying the essence of enduring success built on innovation and integrity.

Notable Quotes

• Norma Kamali [03:20]: “Well, I started to make some things and I would put them in store to see how they would do and they would do really well...”

• Norma Kamali [07:18]: “My mother always had an easel with oil paints where she was in the middle of an oil painting while she was cooking some incredible dish that she just created...”

• Norma Kamali [14:47]: “And so I, of course, didn't want to be a stewardess, and I had zero office skills. But I went for the job because I thought, I want to travel. That's what I want to do.”

• Norma Kamali [50:00]: “I'm not getting out of my sleeping bag. It's coming with me. So I wrapped it around myself...”

• Norma Kamali [81:16]: “Affordable? So to me, Value is also really important that you're able to pay the rent and still have something you love.”

• Norma Kamali [93:09]: “First of all, yes, you have to work really hard... I think we do things because that's what we should be doing.”

Final Thoughts

Norma Kamali's episode serves as a masterclass in innovation, resilience, and the power of staying true to one's vision. Her story is a beacon for entrepreneurs navigating the complexities of building and sustaining a successful brand, offering both inspiration and practical insights.