Episode Summary: DAVID WEBB'S ZOOLOGICAL JEWELS
Introduction to the Episode
In this compelling episode of "If Jewels Could Talk", host Carol Woolton delves deep into the vibrant world of David Webb, a quintessential American jeweler renowned for his distinctive carved enameled animal bracelets. Recorded on February 20, 2025, the episode features an insightful conversation with Levi Higgs, the archivist at David Webb, providing listeners with an intimate look into the legacy, artistry, and ongoing influence of the David Webb brand.
Exploring David Webb’s Artistic Legacy
Carol Woolton opens the discussion by situating listeners in the archives of David Webb, emphasizing the brand's commitment to treating jewelry as "great works of art" (03:07). She highlights David Webb's original style, particularly his carved enameled animal bracelets, which became iconic accessories for stylish women in the 1950s and 60s.
Levi Higgs echoes this sentiment, stating, "We're a house that's dedicated to design and boldness and color. And I think that really kinda elevates us among the highest echelon of jewelry as art" (02:49). This dedication underscores the brand's position in the fine jewelry market, where craftsmanship and artistic expression are paramount.
The Archive and Design Process
The heart of the episode revolves around the extensive archive of 40,000 drawings and designs maintained by David Webb. Carol marvels at the effort involved in managing such a vast collection, noting, "Jewelry should be treated as great works of art, which they surely are" (03:07). Levi explains the meticulous process of identifying authentic David Webb sketches: "He was sort of a colored pencil sketcher. He would just figure out like a very straightforward version of a drawing" (04:19), and the subsequent artist-rendered pieces that brought these designs to life.
The discussion also touches on the shift from traditional hand-rendered designs to modern CAD (Computer-Aided Design) techniques, with Levi lamenting the decline of hand-painted jewelry renderings: "Hand painting, a jewelry rendering, is kind of not done as prevalently as it was" (05:31).
David Webb’s Life and Early Influences
Carol and Levi explore David Webb's early life, tracing his roots back to North Carolina and his early influences in metalsmithing (05:31). Moving to New York at age 17 during World War II, Webb's ambition to pursue jewelry design rapidly paid off as he established David Webb Inc. in 1948. Levi attributes Webb's swift success to his innate talent and the pivotal support of Antoinette Coilleray, a French socialite who connected him with New York’s elite: "She was very, like, gregarious and out there. Someone named Topsy would be very fun" (07:02).
Influence of Art and Culture
David Webb's designs were heavily influenced by his passion for architecture, ancient cultures, and frequent visits to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Carol observes, "You see a lot of Chinese influence. I see a lot of carved jade, which he was collecting... He was very fascinated by that" (10:24). These influences manifested in collections like Manhattan Minimalism, which drew inspiration from modernist architecture and the geometric landscapes of New York City.
Levi adds, "We have a collection called Manhattan Minimalism, specifically for that reason... the way the jewelry is styled is very relevant" (15:55), highlighting how David Webb seamlessly blended cultural motifs with contemporary design.
Iconic Collections and Signature Pieces
A significant portion of the conversation focuses on Webb’s animal-themed jewelry, particularly the zebra bracelets, which became a staple among his high-profile clients like Diana Vreeland and Gloria Vanderbilt. Levi notes, "The most produced animal bracelet was the zebra bracelet. Dana Vreeland had zebra earrings to match. We do a zebra ring as well. It’s our company logo" (17:16).
Another noteworthy collection discussed is the Rock Crystal line, admired by celebrities such as Marissa Berenson. Carol describes it as "modernist... very disco" (20:15), emphasizing the luminescent quality that made it suitable for the vibrant nightlife of the 1970s.
Authentication and Archival Responsibilities
As the archivist, Levi Higgs plays a crucial role in maintaining the integrity of the David Webb brand. He explains the authentication process for pieces brought in by clients or auction houses: "We have a record of pretty much every piece that's ever been produced... we set diamonds in a very particular way" (32:48). This meticulous documentation ensures that each piece's provenance and adherence to David Webb’s standards are thoroughly vetted.
Levi also shares insights into his daily responsibilities, which include researching historical pieces, organizing exhibitions, and writing about the brand's narrative to enhance the sales experience.
Revitalizing and Sustaining the Brand
Post-David Webb’s untimely death at age 50 due to pancreatic cancer, the brand underwent significant transitions. Levi recounts how the company survived under Nina Silberstein's leadership for over 30 years before being revitalized by current owners Robert Sadian and Mark Emanuel in 2009-2010. Their dedication to preserving the brand’s legacy while infusing it with contemporary relevance has led to a renaissance of David Webb jewelry.
Levi highlights the brand's strategy to avoid fast fashion pressures by focusing on timeless, individualistic designs: "We try to keep it very pointed what we choose to do and put out there... something new while still having the intense brand DNA" (31:38). This approach ensures that each new collection remains true to David Webb’s original vision while appealing to modern tastes.
Future Directions and Conclusion
Looking ahead, Levi discusses plans for expanding the brand’s reach through exhibitions and potentially digital archives: "We're thinking about other options... a roving version of an exhibition" (30:51). He also expresses optimism about the growing appreciation for design-centric jewelry, hoping that contemporary audiences will continue to value the intricate artistry of David Webb pieces.
Carol Woolton concludes the episode by inviting listeners to visit the newly updated website and explore the podcast's offerings, ensuring that the legacy of David Webb continues to sparkle in the hearts of jewelry enthusiasts worldwide.
Notable Quotes
- Levi Higgs: "Jewelry should be treated as great works of art, which they surely are." (03:07)
- Levi Higgs: "We're a house that's dedicated to design and boldness and color. And I think that really kinda elevates us among the highest echelon of jewelry as art." (02:49)
- Levi Higgs: "We do a lot of writing for the brand, like kind of conceptual things about narrative, about the brand history." (33:49)
- Levi Higgs: "I think it's nice to have a little bit of a viewpoint point with your jewelry." (36:49)
Timestamp Reference
- [02:19] - Introduction of Levi Higgs
- [03:07] - Jewelry as Art
- [04:19] - David Webb’s Drawing Style
- [05:31] - Shift to CAD Techniques
- [07:02] - Antoinette Coilleray's Influence
- [10:24] - Influence of Chinese Art
- [15:55] - Manhattan Minimalism Collection
- [17:16] - Zebra Bracelet as Logo
- [20:15] - Rock Crystal Collection
- [32:48] - Authentication Process
- [31:38] - Brand’s Strategy Against Fast Fashion
- [30:51] - Future Exhibitions
- [33:49] - Archival Work and Brand Narrative
- [36:49] - Appreciation of Design in Jewelry
"If Jewels Could Talk with Carol Woolton" offers an enriching exploration of David Webb’s artistic journey, the meticulous preservation of his legacy, and the brand's enduring relevance in the ever-evolving world of jewelry design. Whether you're a jewelry aficionado or a history enthusiast, this episode is a treasure trove of insights and inspirations.