Podcast Summary: If Jewels Could Talk with Carol Woolton

Episode: FROM FUNCTION TO FANTASY: THE BROOCH

Date: September 4, 2025

Episode Overview

In this sparkling episode, host and jewellery authority Carol Woolton welcomes Catherine Purcell, co-director of the famed Wartsky jewellers and curator of the upcoming exhibition "From Function to Fantasy: The Brooch." Together, they offer an in-depth preview of the exhibition, which chronicles 3,000 years of brooch history, showcasing how these ornaments evolved from utilitarian fastenings to expressions of artistry and individuality. The conversation dives into the exhibition's showpieces, the stories behind select brooches, and the enduring appeal and versatility of this jewellery form across centuries and cultures.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Exhibition Preview & Scope

• The exhibition, "From Function to Fantasy: The Brooch," runs from October 1–12, celebrating Wartsky’s 160th anniversary and featuring over 250 brooches spanning 3,000 years.

  • "It starts from 1200 BCE to contemporary brooches." — Carol (02:07)

• Wartsky’s usual focus is 19th–20th century jewellery, but the exhibition stretches well beyond, demanding substantial new research.

  • "This is way outside our normal remit and has required quite a lot of research." — Catherine (02:14)

• The earliest piece: a striking Bronze Age brooch (1200 BCE, over 30cm), sculptural and technically ingenious, crafted from a single wire.

  • "Extraordinarily sculptural and technically astonishing... made out of a single piece of continuous wire." — Catherine (02:58)

2. Brooch as Artistic & Functional Object

• The brooch uniquely "doesn't touch the skin" and supports a range of scales and designs.

  • "They're the only jewel that actually doesn't touch the skin... The brooch is really the only jewel that can take any scale at all—from the most minute...to incredibly lavish bodice ornaments." — Catherine (07:23)

• Brooches offer a sense of creative freedom both for designers and wearers:

  • "The quirkiness of brooches, I think, really appealed to me...It's that versatility that the brooch gives you." — Catherine (07:23)

3. Historical References and Artistic Connections

• The exhibition shows direct inspiration across ages. For example, Bronze Age spiral brooches are displayed with Alexander Calder's spiral work, emphasizing cyclical design influences (04:53).
  • "In his writings, he talks about the importance of Bronze Age spirals." — Catherine (04:59)
  • Burne Jones, Picasso, Dali, Braque, and even architects have created notable brooches, which are included in the exhibition.

4. Curatorial Strategy and Collection Highlights

• Organized primarily chronologically, with groupings by motif, artistic movement, and technique (11:49).
• Early zoomorphic brooches (1st–3rd century) with original enamels, rare medieval ring brooches, and signature pieces by renowned makers and artists are all featured.

5. Stories & Personal Histories Behind Brooches

• Notable anecdotes include Gertrude Stein’s coral brooch, said to have “spoken” to her, immortalized in a Picasso portrait (17:53).

  • "Gertrude Stein spoke to her from her brooch...I just thought this was such an astonishing vision." — Catherine (17:53)

• Artist-designed pieces: Picasso’s mask brooch, Giacometti, a hand brooch by Dali (never before exhibited), and others illustrate the interplay between jewellery and fine art (19:53–22:46).

6. Artistic Movements and Material Innovation

• Major focus on Japonisme and its impact on European jewellery: chrysanthemum and orchid brooches by Lalique, Tiffany, and others, marking transitions in style and technique (23:13–26:58).
• The exhibition includes pieces made from unconventional and precious materials—aluminium, platinum, banded agate, horse conch pearls, Siberian aquamarines, Zumba sapphires, and more (14:31, 38:00).

7. Powerful Female Figures and the Brooch as Symbol

• Section devoted to pioneering women and their brooches:
  • Christabel Pankhurst's suffragette brooch, a Holloway prison portcullis brooch, Betty Boothroyd’s Speaker brooch, and Baroness Hale’s famous spider brooch (29:10–32:17).
  • Dame Judi Dench’s diamond "M" brooch, linking wartime intelligence, literature, and cinema, tells a unique cross-disciplinary story (32:17–34:55).

8. Exhibition Access & Purpose

• The exhibition is free and open to the public, aiming to demystify galleries, invite new audiences, and promote jewellery appreciation across backgrounds (41:37).

  • "We wanted to introduce jewellery to people who might be timid about walking into galleries such as ours." — Catherine (41:45)

• Proceeds from the catalogue support the King’s Trust, and a competition for young jewellers led to the inclusion of Ruth Chipperfield’s “Life Breaks Through Rocks” brooch (43:38–44:33).

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On the conceptual breadth of brooches:
  "Each one has something to say—about history, fashion, the way it was worn, style, revolutionary techniques. It's got something unique." — Carol (16:38)

• On the curatorial journey: "It took about four years... just to have a list to approach a museum with potential loans." — Catherine (17:53)

• Brooches as personal signatures:
  "If you see somebody wearing a brooch on their shoulder, you immediately think, oh, now this is somebody I'd like to get to know because she's obviously a quirky character. Or he, because many more men, thankfully, are wearing brooches as well now." — Catherine (07:23)

• On technical feats in jewellery:
  "One of the most delicate looking will certainly be the extraordinary brooch by Oscar Massin, which was meant to represent lace but in diamonds...You could literally buy diamond set elements to sew onto the edge of your sleeves and round your collar." — Catherine (35:05)

Timestamps for Important Segments

• 02:07 – Exhibition scope: from 1200 BCE to contemporary brooches
• 02:58-04:53 – Discussion of the Bronze Age brooch and Alexander Calder's modern spiral
• 07:23-09:03 – Why the brooch is unique & its creative freedom
• 11:49 – Exhibition layout: chronology, motifs, and artist-led works
• 17:53 – Gertrude Stein, artist-designed brooches, and the Picasso connection
• 23:13 – Japonisme in jewellery & major botanical brooches
• 29:10–32:17 – Section on pioneering women: suffragettes to Judi Dench
• 35:05-38:00 – Technical marvels: Oscar Massin lace brooch, Hemele tarantula brooch
• 41:37-44:33 – Public access, catalogues for charity, youth competition
• 44:58-45:08 – Practical exhibition details: October 1–12, open daily

Final Notes

This episode is a must-hear for jewellery lovers, history buffs, and anyone intrigued by the way fashion, art, politics, and personal identity are interwoven through ornament. The discussion is rich with stories within stories—gems of insight, unexpected connections, and passionate scholarship. And with over 250 brooches on display for free, this exhibition promises something new for even the most seasoned jewellery aficionado.

For further visuals and details, listeners are encouraged to follow Carol Woolton’s website and social media, as referenced at the episode’s end.