Podcast Summary: Intelligence Squared – The Specialist | Jackie O's Faux Pearls, with Frank Everett

Release date: February 21, 2026
Guest: Frank Everett, Vice Chairman, Jewelry Americas, Sotheby’s
Duration: [03:03–11:46 main content]

Overview

This episode of "The Specialist" unfolds the story behind Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis's iconic triple-strand faux pearl necklace. Frank Everett, Sotheby’s Vice Chairman and renowned jewelry specialist, explores how the necklace — valued at only $500–700 — reached a staggering auction price of over $200,000. The discussion focuses on the idea of “provenance” and its power within the world of collectibles, using Jackie Kennedy as a case study in how legendary figures imbue everyday objects with enduring cultural and emotional value.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

The Power of Provenance

• Defining Provenance’s Role in Value:
  • Frank distinguishes provenance from other traditional indicators of an object’s worth (rarity, quality, size), positioning it as the principal force behind the exorbitant value reached by Jackie O’s pearls.
  • Quote:

    "When we talk about value points and the way we assign value to any object here, we talk about many things... But when we talk about provenance, which is my personal favorite part of my job, there's nothing like Jackie Kennedy's triple strand of simulated pearls."
    (Frank Everett, 03:10)

The Necklace Itself

• Description and Significance:
  • Triple strand of simulated pearls, art deco style clasp made from silver and paste (not diamonds).
  • No confirmed maker, though much of Jackie’s costume jewelry was by Kenneth J. Lane.
  • Worn in iconic moments, pairing versatility across casual and formal settings.
  • The pearls mimic the appearance of cultured Akoya pearls, about 10mm in size.
  • Quote:

    "They are made to mimic kind of a cultured Koia pearl that runs about 10 millimeter... The clasp is made in the art deco style... not diamonds and platinum as you would imagine... But it certainly looked just like it."
    (Frank Everett, 04:05)

Jackie O’s Fashion Legacy

• A True Style Icon:
  • Jackie Kennedy elevated costume jewelry, donning it with the same pride as fine pieces — a reflection of style over material.
  • She was a public figure who took her influence and role-model status seriously, engaging in what now might be called “personal branding.”
  • Jackie was a fashion pioneer, a “taste maker” before the term was coined, and an “influencer” before the digital age.
  • Quote:

    "She became a editor at Random House and had a very rich and wonderful life beyond her role as First Lady... but certainly that's what we associate with her most of all. She's an icon for many reasons, not just for fashion and style."
    (Frank Everett, 03:40)

The Necklace in Iconic Images

• Recurrent Symbol in Public Memory:
  • The pearls appear in several famous photographs, establishing them as a near-permanent part of Jackie’s public image.
    • Motherhood: 1962, laughing and playing with JFK Jr., who tugs on the necklace.
    • First Lady Duties: Lighting candles at a state dinner, wearing a strapless Oleg Cassini gown.
    • Fashion Icon: Posed in a pale yellow satin dress, exuding approachable charm.
  • Quote:

    "This is Jackie as mother... as first lady, running a state dinner... she was a style icon. Three distinct roles that influenced the world."
    (Frank Everett, 06:10)

The 1996 Sotheby’s Auction

• Auctioning a Legend:
  • Extensive debate about including personal effects of low intrinsic value in the sale.
  • The sale included much of Jackie’s fashion jewelry, which made it possible for people to "own a piece" of her legacy.
  • The auction’s turnout exceeded all expectations, with fierce bidding pushing values far beyond their estimates.
  • Catalogs were required for entry due to overwhelming interest and long queues.
  • Quote:

    "Nothing went cheap. And nobody expected the spirited and aggressive bidding... We estimated these pearls at 500 to $700, and the end result being $211,000 was absolutely staggering."
    (Frank Everett, 08:50)

Fate of the Necklace

• From Private Memory to Public Treasure:
  • Bought by the Franklin Mint, reproduced extensively, and ultimately displayed at the Smithsonian, where they remain a moving tribute to Jackie’s memory.
  • Quote:

    "It ended up in the Smithsonian Museum in Washington. I've seen it several times on display there, and it's very, very moving. So I think what better place for this iconic necklace to live than in the Smithsonian?"
    (Frank Everett, 09:30)

Wider Cultural Meaning

• Icons, Memory, and Style:

  • Owning items with extraordinary provenance—especially tied to legendary women—confers emotional and cultural connection.
  • Reflections on the durability of Jackie’s persona: as fashion fades, her sense of personal presentation and message endures.
  • Quote:

    "There are just a handful of people whose provenance will endure. And certainly Jacqueline Kennedy has to be at the top of the list."
    (Frank Everett, 10:50)

• On How Icons Define an Era:

  • The impact of seeing her images again and again in magazines for months—public consciousness was deeply imprinted with these visual cues, unlike the ephemeral glimpses via today’s social media.
  • The faux pearls appear “in some of the happiest and most beautiful images that we have of her. This is joy, this is hope, and this is how we want to remember her.” (Frank Everett, 11:30)

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• Frank Everett on the meaning of provenance:

  "What I consider to be the greatest example of the power of provenance in the jewelry world."
  (03:05)

• On Jackie’s status as a style icon:

  "She was an influencer before we talked about influencers... She knocked it out of the park in every way."
  (03:40)

• Auction surprise:

  "Nobody expected the spirited and aggressive bidding and participation in the auction. And certainly nobody expected the end result, particularly on these pearls."
  (08:42)

• Legacy and the Smithsonian:

  "I've seen it several times on display there, and it's very, very moving."
  (09:35)

• Icons and their unique endurance:

  "There are just a handful of people whose provenance will endure. And certainly Jacqueline Kennedy has to be at the top of the list."
  (10:52)

• Cultural power of personal objects:

  "This is joy, this is hope, and this is how we want to remember her... She was more a true role model for women. She was a working first lady."
  (11:33)

Timestamps of Key Segments

• 03:03 – Introduction of provenance and Jackie O's pearls
• 04:05 – Description of the necklace and its style/context
• 06:10 – Importance of the pearls in iconic photographs
• 07:45 – Discussion of auction and inclusion of costume jewelry
• 08:42 – Auction day and surprise at final results
• 09:30 – Necklace’s journey: Franklin Mint, Smithsonian
• 10:50 – Reflections on enduring provenance and legacy
• 11:30 – Final thoughts on public memory and iconic status

Conclusion

Frank Everett's retelling of Jackie Kennedy Onassis’s faux pearls illuminates the vast, sometimes intangible power of provenance in the art and jewelry world. What would have otherwise been overlooked as mere imitation became a priceless artifact because of the stories and public personas attached to it. The episode artfully combines history, culture, and the personal charisma Jackie represented—reminding us that icons don’t just shape style, they shape collective memory.