Podcast Summary: The Specialist – Virgil Abloh’s Reimagining of the Iconic Nike Air Force 1 for Louis Vuitton, with Brahm Wachter

Podcast: Intelligence Squared
Episode Date: November 29, 2025
Guest: Brahm Wachter, Head of Modern Collectibles at Sotheby's
Theme: Behind the scenes of the groundbreaking Sotheby’s auction of Virgil Abloh’s Louis Vuitton x Nike Air Force 1 sneakers—their cultural significance, creative process, and auction impact.

Episode Overview

This episode of The Specialist, a series by Intelligence Squared and Sotheby’s, dives into the unprecedented auction of 200 pairs of the Louis Vuitton x Nike Air Force 1 sneakers, designed by the late Virgil Abloh. Led by Brahm Wachter, Head of Modern Collectibles at Sotheby’s, the conversation explores the shoes’ cultural resonance, the challenges of organizing the auction, and how the project became a phenomenon in the worlds of art, fashion, and collectibles.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

Virgil Abloh’s Legacy and Design Vision

• Authenticity of the Design

  • Brahm Wachter asserts:

    “I would go so far as to say that this sneaker was the most authentic high end sneaker ever made.” (01:55)

  • He credits Abloh’s work for merging luxury and streetwear in an enduring way:

    “The sneakers that Virgil released as part of his work with Louis Vuitton…stand the test of time in terms of authentic luxury sneakers.” (01:55)

• Cultural Context & Streetwear Influence

  • The Nike Air Force 1’s decades-spanning background, including its ubiquity and the culture of creative bootlegging (custom “LV” Air Force 1s before a real collaboration existed).

    “Basically people would bootleg these shoes…there was this whole culture around creating these Louis Vuitton Air Force Ones that were not real. And what Virgil Abloh did is he sort of made the ideal versions…” (03:08)

• Details of the Sneaker

  • The design meticulously merges Louis Vuitton’s luxury craftsmanship with Nike’s athletic heritage.
    • Symmetrical monogram pattern, luxurious packaging (monogrammed pilot cases, dust bags), and handcrafted quality.

    “These were design objects. I got a phone call from a counterpart at Louis Vuitton…she mentioned to me the existence of these shoes…[and] at the end of the conversation, almost as a passing thought, I said, we could auction them.” (06:52)

The Auction Process: Collaboration and Hurdles

• Genesis of the Auction

  • Sotheby’s was approached by Louis Vuitton with the aim of supporting the Virgil Abloh Postmodern Scholarship Fund.
  • Brahm proposed the auction as a way to maximize the shoes’ philanthropic and cultural impact, despite the unconventional idea of auctioning 200 nearly identical pairs.

  “Right, because you have 200 of the same lot…Well, the sizes are different…and given the unique nature…I think it might work.” (06:15)

• Tight Timelines and Coordination

  • The contract was finalized at 1am the night before launch (with Sotheby’s staff setting up the exhibit even before it was signed).

    “I think the contract got signed for these shoes at 1am the night before the launch. I think there were people at Sotheby’s fabricating the exhibit at the same time without a signed agreement.” (08:04)

• Personal Stakes

  • Brahm’s wife was nine months pregnant during the launch.
    • On launch morning:

      “My wife went into labor right now, so I think I’m gonna have to get off the phone. And they were literally like, what are you doing on the phone? Like, get off the phone right now.” (09:16)

Auction Day: Overwhelming Demand & Record Setting Results

• Auction Launch Chaos

  • Sotheby’s website failed under the influx of bidders and registrants from over 50 countries.

  “On the first day, our website broke. I don’t remember Sotheby’s website ever really, like, shutting down, but it literally could not handle the amount of bids that were coming in…” (08:52)

• Financial Success and Cultural Shockwaves

  • Bidding started at $2,000, estimated between $5,000–$15,000; actual average price soared to $126,000 per pair.

  • The smallest size (5.5) fetched over $350,000.

  • Total: $25 million raised for the scholarship fund.

  • Brahm recalls:

    “The auction, I think the average price per pair was $126,000…with the most expensive pair…over $350,000 for a single pair of shoes. The total sale raised $25 million…” (10:12)

  • The project fundamentally changed perceptions within Sotheby’s.

    “There’s always culture shock when it comes to sneakers, especially at Sotheby’s…The culture shock was tenfold in the wake of that sale, across the entire organization.” (11:08)

Reflections: Art, Value, and the Meaning of Collectibles

• Changing Definitions of Art and Value

  • The high prices achieved by the sneakers challenged traditional ideas about what is considered art or collectible.

    “The price achieved of these sneakers, I think certainly affected people’s perception of shoes as art and collectibles and what an art object is.” (11:22)

• Broader Market Considerations

  • Anecdote: A collector questions the long-term significance of Michael Jordan memorabilia—whether “in a thousand years anyone will care.”
  • Brahm’s reply: What matters is current cultural importance; the present-day value and impact are themselves expressions of relevance in the modern market.

    “What this category has shown is that things that have cultural importance to people now can still be perceived as really important in the context of the market…” (11:49)

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On Virgil Abloh’s Genius:

  “Virgil Abloh was first and foremost an artist …They weren’t just shoes. These were design objects.” (04:23)

• On the Auction’s Intensity:

  “Good things take time. Great things happen all at once.” (07:53)

• On the Auction’s Culmination and Personal Life Colliding:

  “I remember the sale was closing as we were in the hospital, and the watts were just going absolutely crazy…my phone was exploding…” (09:57)

• On Shifting Perceptions in the Art World:

  “I think that definitely is true. There was this story where I was selling the Dynasty collection…one of the collectors said to me, what does this stuff really matter? In a thousand years from now, no one’s going to remember who Michael Jordan is…” (11:33)

Timestamps for Key Segments

• [01:55] – Brahm Wachter defines the authenticity and legacy of the LV x Nike sneaker
• [03:08] – Context of Air Force 1s, culture of bootlegging, and the genesis of the Abloh design
• [04:23] – Description of design, packaging, and handcrafted details
• [06:52] – The idea for a Sotheby’s auction goes from casual chat to reality
• [08:04] – Behind the scenes: tight timelines, auction set-up before contract, personal story
• [08:52] – Auction day chaos and Sotheby’s website crash
• [09:16] – Brahm’s wife goes into labor as the auction launches
• [10:12] – Jaw-dropping results: price escalation, record total, impact on the scholarship fund
• [11:08] – Culture shock at Sotheby’s and broader impact on the perception of sneakers as art
• [11:49] – What makes objects valuable: present vs. lasting significance

Tone

The episode’s tone is insightful, passionate, and occasionally humorous. Brahm Wachter shares personal stories alongside expert commentary, blending reverence for Abloh’s art with candor about the quirks of high-stakes auction life. The narrative balances industry expertise with relatability and genuine admiration for both the objects and the process.

Conclusion

This thoughtfully produced episode showcases the unprecedented collaboration between Nike, Louis Vuitton, and Virgil Abloh, culminating in an auction that disrupted art world conventions and raised millions for future creators. Brahm Wachter’s behind-the-scenes account provides both tangible takeaways and a reflection on how culture, value, and legacy are constructed in the market for contemporary art and collectibles.