Podcast Summary

Podcast: James Reed: all about business
Host: James Reed (Reed Global)
Episode: 64 — How to convert visibility into sales and long-term growth | Penelope Chilvers
Guest: Penelope Chilvers (Founder and Creative Director, Penelope Chilvers)
Date: February 2, 2026

Overview:

In this episode, James Reed interviews Penelope Chilvers, the founder and creative force behind her eponymous luxury footwear brand. The conversation centers around building a premium brand rooted in craftsmanship, ethical production, and enduring customer relationships — all without rushing for scale or taking shortcuts. Penelope discusses her journey from artist to business owner, the challenges of slow fashion, the importance of close supplier partnerships, and how genuine visibility (such as a royal wearing her boots) translates into lasting sales and sustainable growth.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Penelope's Unconventional Journey to Business

• Transitioned from painter (trained in London, lived in Barcelona) to commercial artist and designer.
• Early passion for collaborating with artisans began in Spain, especially through designing objects with craftspeople.
• Returned to London post-divorce, needing to financially support two young children.

Quote — Creating Out of Necessity:

"I got ever hungrier to make money... I got great pleasure out of trading."
(Penelope, 05:25)

Quote — On Perseverance:

"I just... always think that a door will open, the next, you know, something will come."
(Penelope, 06:18)

2. From Artist to Shoe Designer

• Inspired by custom riding boots made in Spain; London friends sparked the first commissions by admiring her boots.

• The brand began almost by accident:
  “I never knew I was starting a business at the time. I just thought I was making ends meet.”
  (Penelope, 07:27)

• Significant early breakthrough selling 100 pairs in the first six months at The Cross in Notting Hill — demand led to first trips to Paris Fashion Week.

• Learning to grow production: Initially worked with a single artisan, but scaled up by finding a partner workshop after her first shoemaker quit.

Anecdote:

"He disappeared off wild boar hunting... But I was determined and eventually found some school friends of his that had a small factory; they've been working for me now for 20 years."
(Penelope, 09:06–09:55)

3. Staying Close to the Customer

• Early and ongoing proximity to customers has been crucial. Constant feedback led to new designs and instant adaptation.
• Even as the business has grown (5 shops and global online presence), Penelope still spends hours in-store talking to customers.

Quote:

"I still feel I'm very close to the customer... being the founder, everybody talks to me about their feet and what they'd like."
(Penelope, 10:43–11:17)

4. Brand Positioning & Commitment to Quality

• Clearly positioned as premium, high-quality, luxury footwear — but with an emphasis on value for longevity.
• Production remains with the same Spanish workshops (Murcia, Alicante, Valencia, Andalusia) for over 20 years.
• Refused offers to move production to cheaper factories; loyalty and knowledge-sharing with Spanish artisans are central values.
• Product development depends heavily on using durable “lasts” (the foot forms shoes are built around) which have been perfected over years.

Quote:

"I'm a stickler for really good quality. If it's not me, it's somebody else from my team [visiting the factories]. We know everything about how the product is made, so there are no surprises."
(Penelope, 13:46–14:46)

5. Product Longevity & Celebrity Visibility

• Princess Catherine, Princess of Wales, has worn Penelope’s boots for over a decade, directly influencing demand and authentic brand reputation.

Quote:

"She actually just wore them very recently... She was wearing our boots again."
(Penelope, 19:02)

• Focus on Goodyear Welt construction for lifetime-lasting boots, enabling repairs and continued use.
• Best-selling non-footwear product is shoe polish — a testament to customer care for quality footwear.

6. Family Business, Structure & Funding

• Penelope’s daughters now work with her but maintains a structured business with 50 employees and outside investment.
• Acknowledges the importance of building an infrastructure and cash flow for growth, admitting she learned as she went.

Quote — On Team:

"Business is tough... You have to have a team surrounding you that are absolutely determined to do all their best to make that sale. Every sale counts."
(Penelope, 25:05–26:04)

7. Sales-Driven Culture & Business Wisdom

• Sales are a company-wide focus — everyone is expected to contribute, from design to the shop floor.
• Penelope encourages hands-on experience and “jumping right in” over purely academic business education.

Quote:

"Business is not an academic activity... they are opposites."
(James, 27:09)

8. International Expansion & Diversification

• U.S. market is a key area for growth; cowboy boots are bestsellers in America, sold mainly through wholesale partners like Nordstrom — stores in the U.S. are not planned for now.
• Expanded product range to clothing and accessories:
  • Recently launched outerwear, party wear, and other accessories, focusing on selling more to existing loyal customers rather than chasing new ones.
  • Small, smart launches: First clothing collection just 30 SKUs (compared to 120 in footwear).

Quote:

"We thought that if there’s one sure thing, we've got a very loyal customer... to offer them something above the knee instead of just below, it was a good plan."
(Penelope, 30:26)

9. Supply Chain, Partnerships, and Ethical Choices

• Most clothing production is in Spain, Portugal, the UK, and some in India (Penelope emphasizes direct factory relationships, minimal intermediaries).
• Discusses impact of changing tariffs (e.g., in the U.S.) and nimble business adaptations.

Quote:

"I like to be on the factory floor and getting to know them... That’s probably what I most love about my job: watching it being made."
(Penelope, 37:19–37:38)

10. Ethical Production & the Slow Fashion Movement

• Positions brand against fast fashion, focusing on durability, timeless design, and biodegradable materials where possible.
• Sees the changing consumer sentiment as a validation:
  • "We're in the world of slow fashion now... People want to buy things that will last them for a long time and be classics." (Penelope, 46:45–47:22)
• The ongoing challenge: Educating customers and staff about the value and uniqueness of their ethical, artisan-based manufacturing.

11. Relationships with Suppliers

• Supplier trust and mutual support have enabled overcoming challenges in both directions — this partnership mentality is contrasted with transactional supplier management.
• Such loyalty has even protected her from would-be competitors.

Quote:

"If you don't give a factory good business, then they'll get it somewhere else."
(Penelope, 46:20–46:28)

12. Navigating Challenges & Looking Ahead

• Focus remains on organic, steady growth — Penelope resists high-risk or shortcut strategies and prefers to "learn her trade."
• Biggest ongoing challenge: always hiring the right people, finding new artisan partners, and producing as close to home as possible.
• Values curiosity and clear communicators when hiring.

Quote:

"Communication, I think, is the most important thing... Because if they ask questions... then I know that they're going to learn fast."
(Penelope, 53:46–54:20)

Memorable Moments & Timestamps

• Origin Story & First Pair of Boots: [04:23–05:06]
• First Big Order & Production Panic: [08:47–09:55]
• On Being Close to the Customer: [10:43–11:17]
• Quality and Refusal to Outsource: [14:46–16:19]
• On Lasts and Product Testing: [16:46–17:34]
• Princess of Wales as a Customer: [18:32–19:23]
• Family's Role and Business Evolution: [21:37–23:31]
• On Sales-Driven Culture: [25:05–26:04]
• American vs. British Business Attitudes: [28:24–28:54]
• U.S. Expansion Focus: [29:30–29:57]
• Launching Clothing: [30:26–33:38]
• Supplier Loyalty Anecdote: [45:21–46:15]
• Defining Slow Fashion & Environmental Responsibility: [46:45–47:45]
• Final Reflections: Motivation & Five-Year Vision: [55:06–55:39]

Notable Quotes

• "I just thought I was making ends meet; what I was selling I was putting back into the business. And if I made a promise to someone that I would deliver, I would damn well deliver." (Penelope, 07:27)
• "Everyone in the team's a salesperson." (Penelope, 26:04)
• "We're in the world of slow fashion now... people want to buy things that will last them for a long time and be classics." (Penelope, 46:45)
• "If you don't give a factory good business, then they'll get it somewhere else." (Penelope, 46:20)
• "My creativity. I wake up every day full of ideas and creativity. I love my work so much, so I love Mondays too." (Penelope, 55:06)

Takeaways for Listeners

• Building a premium, values-led brand requires hands-on involvement, steadfastness to ethical production, and nurturing long-term partnerships with suppliers.
• Sales and customer feedback are pivotal at every stage, from inception to scaling.
• Leveraging visibility (like celebrity endorsements) can spark growth — but it’s long-term quality and customer trust that sustains it.
• Slow, steady organic growth can beat fast-scale strategies, especially in sectors where product quality and authenticity matter.
• Partnership, not just transaction, with suppliers can be the difference between success and failure.
• Hiring for curiosity and communication is critical to building a resilient, adaptable team.

Those seeking inspiration and practical advice about building an ethical, resilient business rooted in artistry, craftsmanship, and authentic customer relationships will find rich insights throughout this conversation.