Lore Podcast Summary: Episode 283 - "On the Nose"

Release Date: June 30, 2025
Host: Aaron Mahnke

Introduction to the Mystique of Perfume

In this episode of Lore, host Aaron Mahnke delves into the enigmatic world of perfumes, exploring their historical significance, the alchemy behind their creation, and their uncanny ability to evoke memories and emotions. The episode intertwines tales of ancient rituals, modern innovations, and scientific studies to uncover the deeper connections between scent and the human psyche.

The Ancient Origins of Perfume

Historical Significance

Perfume's origins trace back over 4,000 years to ancient Mesopotamia, where it was a privilege reserved for the elite. Early perfumers employed ingredients like myrrh, lemon balm, balsam, and rose—botanicals still prevalent in today's fragrances. However, ancient recipes also included unidentified plants, hinting at flora that may have vanished or are lost in translation.

Egyptian Perfumery

In ancient Egypt, perfume transcended mere aesthetics, serving as a sacred tool in ceremonies and rituals. Archaeologists have unearthed countless fragrant unguents in royal tombs, intended to accompany the deceased into the afterlife. The Egyptians revered perfumery deities—Nefertem, associated with pleasant aromas and blue lotus flowers, and Shezmu, a more fearsome god linked to both perfume and dismemberment. These dual aspects highlight the intricate balance Egyptians saw between beauty and the sacred.

Transition to Commerce

By around 1000 BCE, perfumery became commercially accessible in Egypt, and by the Greco-Roman era, Egyptian scents were coveted globally for their magical and cosmetic properties. This period marked the beginning of one of history's most enduring and fantastical industries.

The Golden Age of Perfume in Europe

17th Century France

Perfume became an obsession in 17th-century Europe, particularly in France. Due to infrequent bathing practices, masking body odor became essential. Queen Elizabeth I exemplified this trend, insisting that every public palace be imbued with rich fragrances. She famously wore leather gloves drenched in perfumes, blending luxury with necessity.

The Rise of Synthetic Scents

The late 19th and early 20th centuries witnessed the invention of synthetic scents, sparking a new perfume heyday. This era also saw the emergence of celebrity perfumers—individuals whose personalities and stories became as alluring as their fragrances. Notable figures included:

• Harriet Hubbard Ayers: A resilient entrepreneur who, after personal tragedy, established a successful cosmetic business in Paris.
• Lily Dashie: A multifaceted artist involved in perfumery and hatmaking for Hollywood stars.
• Esme Davis: A ballet dancer and perfumer whose diverse talents extended to animal training.
• Ahmed Solomon El Moardy: Known as the "Perfume King of Cairo," he operated a lavish shop featuring a clockwork fountain shaped like Pharaoh Ramses, symbolizing the opulence of the perfume trade.

Controversial Ingredients

Despite their allure, some perfume ingredients raised ethical and aesthetic concerns:

• Civet: Derived from the anal glands of civets, this ingredient smells foul in isolation but adds a musky scent and longevity to perfumes like Chanel No. 5. Since 1998, Chanel has used synthetic civet.
• Ambergris: Often termed "floating gold," ambergris is a byproduct of sperm whales, prized for its musky, ambery aroma. Though highly valued, it is illegal in the U.S. due to the protection of sperm whales.
• Castoreum: Extracted from beavers' castor sacs, this ingredient lends a leathery scent but involves ethically questionable extraction methods.

These ingredients highlight the lengths to which perfumers have gone to craft enduring fragrances, blending natural and sometimes ethically dubious sources.

The Supernatural Allure of Perfume

Perfume as a Magical Element

Perfume has long been associated with supernatural powers and witchcraft. Aaron Mahnke references a fictional spell from a 2022 Teen Vogue article, "Use perfume magic to manifest your destinies," which combines scents like sunflower, almond, clove, cedar oil, frankincense, and saffron to make wishes come true. This modern interpretation echoes ancient beliefs that scents could connect individuals to the divine.

Witches and Perfume

Historical literature often links witches with perfume:

• Ancient Greek Epic Argonautica: Describes the sorceress Medea using perfumed ointments for invincibility and lulling serpents.
• Augustan Age Literature: Poet Horace portrays witch Cynidia with foul scents like rot, grave dirt, and poison, setting a precedent where witches were believed to emit unpleasant odors despite using fragrant ingredients in their spells.

During witchcraft trials, poor body odor sometimes led to accusations, reinforcing the stereotype that witches smelled bad.

Modern Spiritual Uses

Despite historical stigmas, perfumes continue to play roles in modern spiritual practices:

• Florida Water: Created in 1808, this citrusy eau de cologne became a household and spiritual staple. Enslaved Africans blended their ancestral traditions with Christian practices, using Florida Water in rituals for cleansing and protection.
• Aleister Crowley's Beliefs: Crowley saw perfumes as vital links between the physical and astral planes, with certain fragrances believed to preserve youth and beauty.

Interestingly, Florida Water's high alcohol content (81%) means it effectively acts as a hand sanitizer, unintentionally aligning with its perceived purifying properties.

Saffeld's Perfume: A Titanic Tale

Discovery Under the Waves

In a poignant segment, Mahnke recounts the discovery of Adolf Saffeld's perfume vials aboard the wreck of the RMS Titanic. During a 2000 expedition, divers retrieved 65 vials from a satchel preserved in the ocean's depths for nearly a century. John Sodder, a researcher present, described the moment:

"When you recover stuff from the Titanic, it's wet, it's rusty, and it's rotten... But out comes the fragrance of heaven. It's all these flowers and fruity flavors... The most wonderful thing you've ever had."
(19:02)

Adolf Saffeld's Legacy

Adolf Saffeld, a German Jewish chemist born in 1865, was a successful perfumer planning to expand his business to America. On April 14, 1912, Saffeld boarded the Titanic with a precious satchel containing his perfume samples. Despite surviving the disaster, he grappled with survivor's guilt and eventually passed away in 1926.

Perfume's Resurrection

The recovered perfumes, preserved by the cold and darkness of the deep ocean, were remarkably intact. A replica scent, Legacy 1912, was released in 2012 to commemorate the Titanic's 100th anniversary, capturing the ethereal essence of Saffeld's original fragrances. Another fragrance, Vetiver by Guerlain, also mirrors the nostalgic aroma experienced by those who encountered the preserved vials.

"There is no sense that can hurled us into the past quite like our sense of smell."
(23:05)

The episode underscores how scent can transcend time, offering a sensory bridge to history and personal memories.

The Science and Scarity of Fear Through Scent

The Fear Contagion Study

Transitioning from historical tales, Mahnke explores the scientific exploration of fear as a contagious emotion through scent. A 2008 study by Stony Brook University investigated whether stress-induced sweat could transmit fear to others.

Methodology and Findings

1. Collection of Sweat Samples:

   • 144 first-time skydivers taped absorbent pads to their armpits during a tandem skydive to collect sweat laden with fear-related hormones like cortisol and adrenaline.

2. Exposure and Brain Activity:

   • A new group of volunteers, unaware of which samples were stress-induced, inhaled either skydiving sweat or sweat collected from treadmill runners.
   • Functional MRI (fMRI) scans revealed that those exposed to skydiving sweat exhibited heightened activity in fear-related brain regions compared to those who smelled treadmill sweat.

3. Enhanced Threat Detection:

   • Another experiment showed that participants who inhaled stress-infused sweat were better at identifying subtle expressions of anger in human faces than those who did not, suggesting that fear chemicals can heighten threat awareness.

Implications and Ethical Concerns

The findings raise both intriguing and unsettling possibilities:

• Potential Uses:

  • Enhancing realism in training for high-stress occupations.
  • Serving as stimulants to keep individuals alert, such as drivers on long trips.

• Weaponization Fears:

  • The possibility of synthesizing fear-inducing scents as biological weapons.
  • Concerns over creating widespread panic through invisible mists at large gatherings.

However, experts downplay these fears, noting that fear is not solely chemically induced but also heavily influenced by psychological factors and situational contexts.

"Even if the chemical was to be unleashed in a crowd, it would be highly unlikely to cause mass panic..."
(35:22)

Conclusion: The Ghostly Essence of Perfume

Aaron Mahnke concludes the episode by reflecting on the profound connection between scent and memory, emphasizing perfume's unique ability to evoke the presence of those long gone. The stories of Saffeld's Titanic perfumes and the scientific exploration of fear through scent illustrate how fragrances can act as invisible bridges to the past and the emotions we carry.

"Perhaps it's because usually fragrance doesn't exist on its own... It isolates it and preserves it, almost like it's plucking out a person's spirit."
(25:36)

Through exploring history, mythology, and science, this episode of Lore reveals that perfume is more than just a collection of scents—it is a vessel of memories, emotions, and even supernatural connections that continue to haunt and enchant us.

Notable Quotes with Timestamps

• "What is a perfume if not a ghost?" — Jenna Rose Nethercott (03:19)
• "Like a genie let out of a lamp, they had been set free." — Erin Manke (19:19)
• "There is no sense that can hurled us into the past quite like our sense of smell." — Erin Manke (23:05)
• "Could it cause stampedes? Would friends and family members turn on one another?" — Erin Manke (35:03)

Final Thoughts

Episode 283 of Lore, "On the Nose," masterfully intertwines historical anecdotes, personal stories, and scientific research to explore the multifaceted nature of perfume. From ancient rituals to modern-day psychological studies, the episode underscores the enduring power of scent as a conduit for memory, emotion, and even supernatural influence.

If you're intrigued by the stories and insights shared in this episode, consider subscribing to Lore for more deep dives into the dark and mysterious tales that shape our history and psyche.