Lore 283: On the Nose

Summary

Lore Podcast Summary: Episode 283 - "On the Nose"

Release Date: June 30, 2025
Host: Aaron Mahnke

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Introduction to the Mystique of Perfume

In this episode of Lore, host Aaron Mahnke delves into the enigmatic world of perfumes, exploring their historical significance, the alchemy behind their creation, and their uncanny ability to evoke memories and emotions. The episode intertwines tales of ancient rituals, modern innovations, and scientific studies to uncover the deeper connections between scent and the human psyche.

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The Ancient Origins of Perfume

Historical Significance

Perfume's origins trace back over 4,000 years to ancient Mesopotamia, where it was a privilege reserved for the elite. Early perfumers employed ingredients like myrrh, lemon balm, balsam, and rose—botanicals still prevalent in today's fragrances. However, ancient recipes also included unidentified plants, hinting at flora that may have vanished or are lost in translation.

Egyptian Perfumery

In ancient Egypt, perfume transcended mere aesthetics, serving as a sacred tool in ceremonies and rituals. Archaeologists have unearthed countless fragrant unguents in royal tombs, intended to accompany the deceased into the afterlife. The Egyptians revered perfumery deities—Nefertem, associated with pleasant aromas and blue lotus flowers, and Shezmu, a more fearsome god linked to both perfume and dismemberment. These dual aspects highlight the intricate balance Egyptians saw between beauty and the sacred.

Transition to Commerce

By around 1000 BCE, perfumery became commercially accessible in Egypt, and by the Greco-Roman era, Egyptian scents were coveted globally for their magical and cosmetic properties. This period marked the beginning of one of history's most enduring and fantastical industries.

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The Golden Age of Perfume in Europe

17th Century France

Perfume became an obsession in 17th-century Europe, particularly in France. Due to infrequent bathing practices, masking body odor became essential. Queen Elizabeth I exemplified this trend, insisting that every public palace be imbued with rich fragrances. She famously wore leather gloves drenched in perfumes, blending luxury with necessity.

The Rise of Synthetic Scents

The late 19th and early 20th centuries witnessed the invention of synthetic scents, sparking a new perfume heyday. This era also saw the emergence of celebrity perfumers—individuals whose personalities and stories became as alluring as their fragrances. Notable figures included:

• Harriet Hubbard Ayers: A resilient entrepreneur who, after personal tragedy, established a successful cosmetic business in Paris.
• Lily Dashie: A multifaceted artist involved in perfumery and hatmaking for Hollywood stars.
• Esme Davis: A ballet dancer and perfumer whose diverse talents extended to animal training.
• Ahmed Solomon El Moardy: Known as the "Perfume King of Cairo," he operated a lavish shop featuring a clockwork fountain shaped like Pharaoh Ramses, symbolizing the opulence of the perfume trade.

Controversial Ingredients

Despite their allure, some perfume ingredients raised ethical and aesthetic concerns:

• Civet: Derived from the anal glands of civets, this ingredient smells foul in isolation but adds a musky scent and longevity to perfumes like Chanel No. 5. Since 1998, Chanel has used synthetic civet.
• Ambergris: Often termed "floating gold," ambergris is a byproduct of sperm whales, prized for its musky, ambery aroma. Though highly valued, it is illegal in the U.S. due to the protection of sperm whales.
• Castoreum: Extracted from beavers' castor sacs, this ingredient lends a leathery scent but involves ethically questionable extraction methods.

These ingredients highlight the lengths to which perfumers have gone to craft enduring fragrances, blending natural and sometimes ethically dubious sources.

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The Supernatural Allure of Perfume

Perfume as a Magical Element

Perfume has long been associated with supernatural powers and witchcraft. Aaron Mahnke references a fictional spell from a 2022 Teen Vogue article, "Use perfume magic to manifest your destinies," which combines scents like sunflower, almond, clove, cedar oil, frankincense, and saffron to make wishes come true. This modern interpretation echoes ancient beliefs that scents could connect individuals to the divine.

Witches and Perfume

Historical literature often links witches with perfume:

• Ancient Greek Epic Argonautica: Describes the sorceress Medea using perfumed ointments for invincibility and lulling serpents.
• Augustan Age Literature: Poet Horace portrays witch Cynidia with foul scents like rot, grave dirt, and poison, setting a precedent where witches were believed to emit unpleasant odors despite using fragrant ingredients in their spells.

During witchcraft trials, poor body odor sometimes led to accusations, reinforcing the stereotype that witches smelled bad.

Modern Spiritual Uses

Despite historical stigmas, perfumes continue to play roles in modern spiritual practices:

• Florida Water: Created in 1808, this citrusy eau de cologne became a household and spiritual staple. Enslaved Africans blended their ancestral traditions with Christian practices, using Florida Water in rituals for cleansing and protection.
• Aleister Crowley's Beliefs: Crowley saw perfumes as vital links between the physical and astral planes, with certain fragrances believed to preserve youth and beauty.

Interestingly, Florida Water's high alcohol content (81%) means it effectively acts as a hand sanitizer, unintentionally aligning with its perceived purifying properties.

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Saffeld's Perfume: A Titanic Tale

Discovery Under the Waves

In a poignant segment, Mahnke recounts the discovery of Adolf Saffeld's perfume vials aboard the wreck of the RMS Titanic. During a 2000 expedition, divers retrieved 65 vials from a satchel preserved in the ocean's depths for nearly a century. John Sodder, a researcher present, described the moment:

"When you recover stuff from the Titanic, it's wet, it's rusty, and it's rotten... But out comes the fragrance of heaven. It's all these flowers and fruity flavors... The most wonderful thing you've ever had."
(19:02)

Adolf Saffeld's Legacy

Adolf Saffeld, a German Jewish chemist born in 1865, was a successful perfumer planning to expand his business to America. On April 14, 1912, Saffeld boarded the Titanic with a precious satchel containing his perfume samples. Despite surviving the disaster, he grappled with survivor's guilt and eventually passed away in 1926.

Perfume's Resurrection

The recovered perfumes, preserved by the cold and darkness of the deep ocean, were remarkably intact. A replica scent, Legacy 1912, was released in 2012 to commemorate the Titanic's 100th anniversary, capturing the ethereal essence of Saffeld's original fragrances. Another fragrance, Vetiver by Guerlain, also mirrors the nostalgic aroma experienced by those who encountered the preserved vials.

"There is no sense that can hurled us into the past quite like our sense of smell."
(23:05)

The episode underscores how scent can transcend time, offering a sensory bridge to history and personal memories.

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The Science and Scarity of Fear Through Scent

The Fear Contagion Study

Transitioning from historical tales, Mahnke explores the scientific exploration of fear as a contagious emotion through scent. A 2008 study by Stony Brook University investigated whether stress-induced sweat could transmit fear to others.

Methodology and Findings

1. Collection of Sweat Samples:

   • 144 first-time skydivers taped absorbent pads to their armpits during a tandem skydive to collect sweat laden with fear-related hormones like cortisol and adrenaline.

2. Exposure and Brain Activity:

   • A new group of volunteers, unaware of which samples were stress-induced, inhaled either skydiving sweat or sweat collected from treadmill runners.
   • Functional MRI (fMRI) scans revealed that those exposed to skydiving sweat exhibited heightened activity in fear-related brain regions compared to those who smelled treadmill sweat.

3. Enhanced Threat Detection:

   • Another experiment showed that participants who inhaled stress-infused sweat were better at identifying subtle expressions of anger in human faces than those who did not, suggesting that fear chemicals can heighten threat awareness.

Implications and Ethical Concerns

The findings raise both intriguing and unsettling possibilities:

• Potential Uses:

  • Enhancing realism in training for high-stress occupations.
  • Serving as stimulants to keep individuals alert, such as drivers on long trips.

• Weaponization Fears:

  • The possibility of synthesizing fear-inducing scents as biological weapons.
  • Concerns over creating widespread panic through invisible mists at large gatherings.

However, experts downplay these fears, noting that fear is not solely chemically induced but also heavily influenced by psychological factors and situational contexts.

"Even if the chemical was to be unleashed in a crowd, it would be highly unlikely to cause mass panic..."
(35:22)

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Conclusion: The Ghostly Essence of Perfume

Aaron Mahnke concludes the episode by reflecting on the profound connection between scent and memory, emphasizing perfume's unique ability to evoke the presence of those long gone. The stories of Saffeld's Titanic perfumes and the scientific exploration of fear through scent illustrate how fragrances can act as invisible bridges to the past and the emotions we carry.

"Perhaps it's because usually fragrance doesn't exist on its own... It isolates it and preserves it, almost like it's plucking out a person's spirit."
(25:36)

Through exploring history, mythology, and science, this episode of Lore reveals that perfume is more than just a collection of scents—it is a vessel of memories, emotions, and even supernatural connections that continue to haunt and enchant us.

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Notable Quotes with Timestamps

• "What is a perfume if not a ghost?" — Jenna Rose Nethercott (03:19)
• "Like a genie let out of a lamp, they had been set free." — Erin Manke (19:19)
• "There is no sense that can hurled us into the past quite like our sense of smell." — Erin Manke (23:05)
• "Could it cause stampedes? Would friends and family members turn on one another?" — Erin Manke (35:03)

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Final Thoughts

Episode 283 of Lore, "On the Nose," masterfully intertwines historical anecdotes, personal stories, and scientific research to explore the multifaceted nature of perfume. From ancient rituals to modern-day psychological studies, the episode underscores the enduring power of scent as a conduit for memory, emotion, and even supernatural influence.

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If you're intrigued by the stories and insights shared in this episode, consider subscribing to Lore for more deep dives into the dark and mysterious tales that shape our history and psyche.

Transcript

[Aaron Manke]

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[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

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[Erin Manke]

I'm good. Seriously?

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Hmm.

[T-Mobile Representative]

Let me check this pocket. Oh, mints.

[Zoe Saldana]

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[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Technology has accom a lot.

[Erin Manke]

In the last century alone, we've seen the invention of computers and the Internet.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Countless vaccines, even putting a man on the moon. But there's one territory science has yet to conquer. That is when you die, you stay dead.

[Erin Manke]

Now, we can talk about revenants and.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Zombies all we want, but at the.

[Erin Manke]

End of the day, real necromancy just.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Isn'T a thing, no matter how much we might wish it.

[Erin Manke]

We simply can't bring our loved ones.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Back once they've crossed to the other side.

[Erin Manke]

But according to one company, there may.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Be a part of them we can resurrect their scent.

[Erin Manke]

In 2015, French startup Calain claimed it.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Could bottle the scent of your dead loved ones.

[Erin Manke]

First, you mail them an item that smells like your deceased person of choice. Their favorite old flannel a pillowcase, maybe.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

A scarf they wore often. Then the company uses a specialized process to extract the chemical scent from that.

[Erin Manke]

Object, allowing them to recreate it as a bespoke fragrance. Now, sure, one perfume expert deemed the product as, and I quote, cheap and unbalanced, as well as smelling nothing like.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

The garment they had supplied. But nonetheless, the idea of bringing a lost scent back to life is a fascinating one.

[Erin Manke]

And Killain's founders aren't the only ones.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Who have made such claims. Another brand called Future Society has designed.

[Erin Manke]

A fragrance line called Scent Surrection, which has supposedly restored the scent of six.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Extinct, extinct flowers from around the globe, using DNA sequencing as a guide. Scent is a mysterious thing. It's invisible and intangible.

[Erin Manke]

And yet a single whiff can bring.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Us back to bygone moments and memories.

[Erin Manke]

It can trail behind a person like.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

A shadow and linger after they've left the room or even their mortal coil. A mere hint of what was once alive. In other words, what is a perfume if not a ghost? I'm Erin Manke, and this is Lore.

[Erin Manke]

The first perfume known to history was.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Concocted 4,000 years ago in ancient Mesopotamia. Accessible only to the wealthiest members of.

[Erin Manke]

Society, these scents came in the form.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Of salves to be spread on the body.

[Erin Manke]

Now, if you're wondering what these might have smelled like, archaeologists have actually found cuneiform tablets from 1239 BCE documenting recipes from an earlier perfumer. Her ingredients included things like myrrh, lemon balm, balsam and rose, all botanicals still.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Used in fragrances today.

[Erin Manke]

But she also listed other materials, mystery plants that modern translators are unable to identify. Maybe it's just a language issue.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Or maybe the scents are from botanicals long since vanished from the earth. Perfume was also big business in ancient Egypt, but not as a fashion item like it is today.

[Erin Manke]

No, for thousands of years, perfume was.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

A sacred tool for ceremony and ritual.

[Erin Manke]

When excavating royal Egyptian tombs, archaeologists have.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Uncovered hundreds upon hundreds of fragrant unguents intended to join the deceased in the next life.

[Erin Manke]

Egyptians even had perfumery gods, Nefertem and Shezmu, often said to be brothers. Nefertem was the youthful bright deity of.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Pleasant aromas and blue lotus flowers, which.

[Erin Manke]

Was the most essential ingredient in Egyptian perfumes. Shezmu, on the other hand, was a.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Violent lion headed God with a razor sharp knife perpetually gripped in his fist. He had a whole slew of names.

[Erin Manke]

Too, things like maker of precious oils.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Lord of perfume, lord of unguent, but.

[Erin Manke]

Also lord of blood, slaughterer of souls, butcher of the gods and he who dismembers. And I get it.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

It may seem like a jarring combo.

[Erin Manke]

For one figure to be both the God of perfume and the God of dismembering, but in the Egyptians eyes, the two weren't so different. One involved stealing the essence of people, and the other stealing the essence of flowers. It was believed that perfume could act as a sort of telephone connecting people to the gods, and that the gods themselves actually emanated perfume from their bodies. Now, despite its holiness, nothing is safe from commercialism. And Shortly after year 1000 BCE, perfume.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Went on the market for regular Egyptians to purchase.

[Erin Manke]

By the Greco Roman era, Egyptian perfume.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Had become coveted worldwide for its magical and cosmetic properties.

[Erin Manke]

And thus one of history's most fantastical industries had begun.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Another culture absolutely obsessed with perfume was 17th century Europe, particularly in France.

[Erin Manke]

You see, folks weren't bathing all too often round those parts, and masking body odor became pretty essential. Notably, Queen Elizabeth I couldn't stand bad smells and so demanded that every public palace be absolutely soaked in perfume.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

She even wore leather gloves drenched in rich fragrances.

[Erin Manke]

And as a Tudor, her favorite scent was, predictably rose.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Time went on.

[Erin Manke]

With the invention of synthetic scents in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

A whole new perfume heyday boomed. And with it came a new phenomenon, Celebrity perfumers.

[Erin Manke]

And bear with me as I give you a quick hit list of some of my favorite characters from this time, because it really feels like an Avengers.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Assemble type of lineup.

[Erin Manke]

First, there was Harriet Hubbard Ayers, who, after losing a child in the great 1871 Chicago fire, ran off to Paris.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Before starting a cosmetic business, only for.

[Erin Manke]

Her family to commit her to a.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Mental asylum in a plot to steal her company. Then we have Lily Dashie, not only.

[Erin Manke]

A perfumer, but also a hatmaker to Hollywood stars. Although if that seems like multitasking, you clearly have not met Esme Davis, who, in addition to being a perfumer, was also a ballet dancer, watercolorist, musician, lion.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Tamer, and elephant trainer. But my favorite has to be Ahmed.

[Erin Manke]

Solomon El Moardy, also known as the.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Perfume king of Cairo.

[Erin Manke]

He claimed that his ancestors had been perfumers to the Egyptian pharaohs. But regardless of whether that marketing was true, his shop was still something to behold. Namely, it featured a clockwork fountain shaped like the pharaoh Ramses, which poured a constant stream of perfume from its mouth. I can only imagine how amazing that.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Shop must have smelled.

[Erin Manke]

Although all that said, while perfumes may smell lovely, some of their ingredients are anything but. Take, for example, civet use of this material dates back to 10th century Arab perfumers. And I have some questions for these guys. Mainly. Exactly whose idea was it to use.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

This stuff in perfume?

[Erin Manke]

Because civet doesn't come from a flower or a plant. It comes from, well, a civet, which is kind of like a mongoose. More specifically, the ingredient comes from the civet's anal gland, which apparently oozes this secretion when the animal is stressed out.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

By all accounts, it smells awful on its own.

[Erin Manke]

But when small quantities are mixed into floral perfumes, it can add a pleasant.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Musky scent plus help the perfume last longer.

[Erin Manke]

By the way, this isn't some obscure ingredient. You've probably smelled it yourself. Because you see, civet is an essential ingredient in the world's most popular perfume, Chanel no.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

5. Although granted, the company claims it has used only synthetic civet since 1998.

[Erin Manke]

One other ingredient used to extend a.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Fragrance'S longevity is ambergris.

[Erin Manke]

And like civet, it too comes from somewhere pretty darn gross. From the French for grey amber, ambergris is basically sperm whale puke or excrement. It's not actually clear how the stuff gets out of the whale, but it's definitely made in a whale's intestinal tract. One National Geographic article refers to it as an intestinal slurry.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

After sitting out in the sun and.

[Erin Manke]

Salt though, it loses its fecal smell.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

And hardens into what is basically a rock.

[Erin Manke]

And while I wish this episode would come with a scratch and sniff guide, a description will have to suffice. It smells musky, ambery, tobacco y and with hints of the ocean.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

It may sound unappealing, but ambergris is.

[Erin Manke]

Actually so sought after, it's sometimes referred.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

To as floating gold. Good quality ambergris can cost thousands of dollars per ounce.

[Erin Manke]

Just a caveat though, before you change your name to Captain Ahab, ambergris is illegal in the US due to sperm whales protected status. Then again, there are many perfumers in other parts of the world who still.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Use ambergris every day.

[Erin Manke]

I wish I could say perfumers drew the line at civet and ambergris, but.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Alas, there is more.

[Erin Manke]

Castoreum lends a warm, leather like scent to fragrances and happens to come from the castor sac which sits near the.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Genitals of both male and female beavers.

[Erin Manke]

Basically, this grayish yellowish molasses like goop is what beavers excrete to mark their territory. By the way, have you ever noticed how in medieval bestiaries, beavers are often depicted in the act of what looks like ripping off their own testicles. Yes, that comes from the belief that beavers would bite off their castor sacks to avoid the hunters pursuing them for their castoreum.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

But for as disgusting as all of this might sound, this topic actually has a whole other level of weirdness for us to explore. Because some of the strangest of ingredients of all are said to hold supernatural powers. The text of the spell was clear. Use fragrances associated with the sun, it.

[Erin Manke]

Instructed, known for bringing blessings of confidence, clarity and luck.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

It went on to offer a list of suggestions, too. Sunflower, almond, clove and cedar oil, along with frankincense and saffron.

[Erin Manke]

If combined, this potion was supposed to make your wishes come true. But this was no ancient perfume recorded.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

On a cuneiform tablet.

[Erin Manke]

No, it's actually an Excerpt from a 2022 article entitled Use perfume magic to manifest your destinies, published by none other than Teen Vogue. It may seem that culture has come a long way since ancient Mesopotamia. But some things, it appears, have stayed the same, like the fact that perfume is still linked to witchcraft.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Now, it certainly makes sense how it all got started right after all those.

[Erin Manke]

Early priests would have smelled strongly of.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Their ceremonial incense and herbs. It's only natural that people would come to associate that smell with the magic makers themselves.

[Erin Manke]

And the connection continued into literature. In the ancient Greek epic Argonautica, which.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Tells the story of Jason and the.

[Erin Manke]

Argonauts, the the poet takes particular care to describe what the legendary sorceress Medea smells.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Ambrosia, nectar, and sacrificial incense.

[Erin Manke]

Her actions, too, are closely linked with fragrance. She gives Jason a perfumed ointment to make him invincible.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Then she uses a powerfully scented drug.

[Erin Manke]

To lull the serpent guarding the Golden Fleece to sleep, and even uses the.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Smell of magical herbs to lure her own brother to his doom.

[Erin Manke]

Later, during the Augustan Age, the poet Horace wrote of a witch named Cynidia who uses magical perfumes to enchant her victims. She herself, though, is presented as smelling like, and I quote, rot, grave dirt, blood, garlic and poison. And that's important to point out, because.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

From then on, a new precedent was set.

[Erin Manke]

The ingredients that witches used in their spells smelled good, for sure.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

But witches themselves were believed to smell horrible.

[Erin Manke]

In fact, the stench of a witch.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Became such a common concept that it.

[Erin Manke]

Even played a role in witchcraft trials. For some unlucky folks in the days before deodorant, having a foul body odor.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Was enough to brand you as a witch.

[Erin Manke]

After all, everyone knew that witches smell Bad. So therefore, if you smell bad, you.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Must be practicing witchcraft.

[Erin Manke]

Why did witches smell bad, you might ask? Well, According to one 16th century demonologist, it came from copulating with demonically possessed corpses.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Charming, I know.

[Erin Manke]

And yet, despite the stigma, the use of perfumes in witchcraft and spellcasting continued.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

To be practiced well into the modern era.

[Erin Manke]

Aleister Crowley believed that perfumes vitally linked.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

The physical and the astral planes.

[Erin Manke]

A particular fragrance known as hungry water.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Was believed to magically preserve youth and beauty.

[Erin Manke]

And then there's the mystical cologne Florida water. Now, when I hear the words Florida water, I tend to envision an alligator.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Basking on a seaworld water slide. More than the sacred elixir of life.

[Erin Manke]

But this perfume is viewed by many communities to be just that. Created in the year 1808 by perfumer Robert Murray, Florida water is a citrusy eau de cologne smelling of cinnamon, rose.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Bergamot and orange flower.

[Erin Manke]

Murray himself lived in New York, but probably named his product after rumors that.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

The legendary Fountain of Youth itself was hiding in none other than the Florida territory.

[Erin Manke]

And this cologne, well, it was used for a lot more than just smelling nice. By the mid-1800s, it had become a common household essential in not just the.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

US but the Caribbean and south and Central America as well.

[Erin Manke]

Folks poured it into their bathwater, dabbed it on sick family members, and even.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Downed shots of the stuff as a quick pick me up.

[Erin Manke]

And then, of course, there were the magical uses.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Now, to understand the true occult power.

[Erin Manke]

Of Florida water, we have to go.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Back to the days of the transatlantic slave trade.

[Erin Manke]

Although enslaved people were forced by their Christian enslavers to practice Christianity, many developed.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Their own religious practices in secret.

[Erin Manke]

As people from all over Africa blended their ancestral traditions with Christian teachings, new rituals emerged. Rituals that required holy tools.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

And being enslaved people, they had little access to supplies. But they did likely have access to Florida water.

[Erin Manke]

Basically, this stuff was as common as.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Axe body spray and would have been.

[Erin Manke]

Sitting around in slavers households where domestic slaves would have encountered it every single day.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Some even claim that it was used.

[Erin Manke]

To wash the decks of slave ships. And so it's believed that for these enslaved tradition makers, Florida water took on.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

The role of holy water.

[Erin Manke]

One small sprinkle and bad energy would.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Run for the hills.

[Erin Manke]

And that was it.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

The match had been struck.

[Erin Manke]

From those roots, Florida water spread to spiritual traditions such as hoodoo, voodoo and Santeria. In voodoo, Florida water was an essential tool in cleansing rituals. In Santeria ceremonies, the fragrance was used to manifest everything from attracting money to winning back A lost lover, or even.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Staying out of jail.

[Erin Manke]

And here's the thing. All those true believers may have actually been onto something, because Florida water happens.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

To be 81% alcohol strong enough to be a viable hand sanitizer.

[Erin Manke]

That's right. It actually can purify and protect you from the bad energy of disease. Since its earliest invention, perfume has been attributed with a mystical power that no.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Other cosmetic can match. And perhaps its most powerful magic of.

[Erin Manke]

All is to connect us to the past.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

It was the summer of 2000 when the expedition descended into the abyss. The two submersibles, Mir 1 and Mir 2, plummeted deeper and deeper into the ocean. And as they sank, the world of humanity fell away. First the sun, then animal life as we know it. By the time the divers reached 3,800 meters, it had become the domain of sea spiders and eyeless crustaceans scuttling in the dark.

[Erin Manke]

And there, in the ghostly light of the headlight beam, it appeared the wreck.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Of the RMS Titanic. For those keeping track, this was the sixth expedition to the Titanic since its discovery in 1985. It was a salvage mission with the.

[Erin Manke]

Goal of retrieving sunken artifacts to display.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

In an upcoming exhibition. And as it turned out, the mission would be a major success.

[Erin Manke]

Back on the surface, a team of.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Conservators waited aboard a research vessel, ready to examine whatever treasures might arrive. I can only imagine their excitement when.

[Erin Manke]

The divers returned with the Titanic's main.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Wheel and steering stand.

[Erin Manke]

Two engine, telegraphs, an automatic whistle, timer, and more. But to everyone's amazement, the greatest treasure.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Of all was tucked away in a small, unassuming leather satchel.

[Erin Manke]

Here is the description from researcher Bill.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Sodder in his own words, and I.

[Erin Manke]

Quote, when you recover stuff from the Titanic, it's wet, it's rusty, and it's rotten.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

And the smell that comes off it.

[Erin Manke]

Is pretty alien, perfectly fetid. You know, it's a kind of death.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

You have never experienced. And so the lab is kind of unpleasant. And then all of a sudden, somebody opens up this satchel, this leather satchel.

[Erin Manke]

And out comes the fragrance of heaven.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

It's all these flowers and fruity flavors, and it's delicious. It's the most wonderful thing you've ever had.

[Erin Manke]

It was just a complete overwhelming experience.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

It was like all of a sudden.

[Erin Manke]

The fragrance of heaven, you know, kind of goes through the room.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

So instead of being surrounded by all these dead things, for those few minutes, the ship was alive again. What the conservators had unveiled was 65 vials of perfume and Although a few had broken during the retrieval process, hence the wafting scent in the room, most were miraculously preserved. These scents had slumbered on the ocean floor for nearly a century. And now, like a genie let out of a lamp, they had been set free.

[Aaron Manke]

The fragrances, it turns out, had belonged to a chemist named Adolf Saffeld. Born to a German Jewish family in 1865, he moved to England as a.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Young man and married an English woman named Gertrude.

[Aaron Manke]

Eventually, Saffeld became the chairman of a.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Company that sold perfume and scented oils.

[Aaron Manke]

And that company, much to his delight.

[Erin Manke]

Was proving to be a success. It was doing so well, in fact.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

That plans were made to expand to the American market.

[Erin Manke]

And so, in 1912, Adolf Saffeld boarded a ship for America.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

His ticket cost 30 pounds and 10 shillings, the equivalent of nearly 4,000 US dollars today. It was a lot of money, yes.

[Erin Manke]

But it would all be worth it because tucked into his luggage, Saffeld carried.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

With him something precious. It was a satchel made of leather, containing 65 vials of perfume samples and raw ingredients alike.

[Erin Manke]

In other words, the key to Safeld's future. That future was looking brighter than ever. As he sat down to write a letter home to Gertrude, he described the wonderful boat that would convey him across the sea.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

A boat that everyone said was unsinkable.

[Erin Manke]

On the night of April 14th, Adolf.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Was in the first class smoking room. I imagine there was music playing, drinks swaying softly in their glasses with the rolling waves.

[Erin Manke]

Perhaps Saffeld noticed the fragrance of cigar.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Smoke clinging to the ship's velvet curtains. And then the RMS Titanic hit an iceberg. From there, everything was a blur. Crew members attempted to usher women and.

[Erin Manke]

Children into lifeboats, but many refused, believing that the big ship would be safer than those tiny little boats.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

And so Saffield was placed into one instead.

[Erin Manke]

And you have to understand, at this.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Point, no one thought the ship was going to sink, nor had any idea.

[Erin Manke]

Just how few lifeboats there really were. Saffield had no idea he was being.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Given a coveted spot.

[Erin Manke]

In fact, authorities probably placed him in the ship specifically. Specifically to convince women and children that.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

It was safe enough to join him.

[Erin Manke]

He would later go on to write, and I quote, all expected to go back after damage patched up. But as we drifted away, gradually we saw Titanic sink lower and lower and.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Finally lights on her went out.

[Erin Manke]

And then, even though his lifeboat was.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Nearly two miles away by this point, the sounds of screaming began slicing through the night. Saffield mercifully survived the fame disaster.

[Erin Manke]

But I wonder at what point? He realized that he had left his.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Priceless satchel with perfume on board the doomed ship.

[Erin Manke]

After the sinking, he faced immense stigma.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

As a male survivor. Only 20% of male passengers had survived, and nearly all of them were accused of being cowards.

[Erin Manke]

He suffered from what we would now.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Call ptsd, lying awake long into the night.

[Erin Manke]

Sometimes his chauffeur patch would even drive.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Him around until he fell asleep. Adolph Saffield passed away in 1926. His obituary remembered him as a warm, witty, and intelligent man who was, and.

[Erin Manke]

I quote, a father to the fatherless.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

And ready to help those in need. And little did he know, 74 years after his own death, his drowned perfume would come back to life. According to one perfume historian, sinking to the ocean floor may have been the best thing that could have ever happened to those vials.

[Erin Manke]

You see, they found themselves in the ideal conditions for preserving scents, fully sealed and in a cool, dark place.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Which is why, when the satchel was opened all those years later, it felt like a ghost had walked into the room. I'll leave you with this memory from.

[Erin Manke]

Ken Marshall, whose Titanic paintings inspired the James Cameron film and who also happened.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

To be in the lab that day. It was unreal, he said. Just wonderful. It smelled as fresh and sweet as if an elegant lady from 1912 had just walked into the room. That scent, he continued, pervaded the room for days. It was all over the conservator's gloves, of course, which ended up in the trash.

[Erin Manke]

Needless to say, I snatched those gloves.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Out of the garbage and saved them. There is no sense that can hurdle us into the past quite like our sense of smell.

[Erin Manke]

You may catch a passing stranger's aftershave.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

On the breeze and suddenly be four years old again sitting in your grandfather's lap. Or a whiff of laundry detergent might.

[Erin Manke]

Send you right back to that friend's.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Basement where everyone hung out in high school. But this power extends beyond our own memories.

[Erin Manke]

For those lucky witnesses in the Titanic laboratory, they got to close their eyes.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

And travel back in time to someone else's life. With that said, if you're left with.

[Erin Manke]

A nagging urge to smell Saffield's perfume for yourself, I've got good news. In 2012, the 100th anniversary of the Titanic's sinking, a perfume called Legacy 1912 was released. According to the perfume makers, the scent.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Was inspired by those very vials recovered from the ocean floor, surrounding the wearer.

[Erin Manke]

With, and I quote, delicate lemon and nerolisse alongside blushing rose and warm sheer amber. And while the company seems to have retired it. Don't worry, because there's a second way.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

To achieve your White Star line dreams.

[Erin Manke]

According to Ken Marshall of glove Stealing.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Fame, a cologne called Vetiver by the Parisian company Guerlain smells exactly like that wonderful fragrance from the laboratory. So naturally, both our researcher Cassandra and our writer Jenna Rose acquired little bottles of the stuff.

[Erin Manke]

And they can attest that it not only smells quite nice, but a dab on the wrists does make them feel very, very haunted. There's something ghostly about a scent that.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Lingers on all those years later. Perhaps it's because usually fragrance doesn't exist on its own.

[Erin Manke]

The smell of rose is tied to.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

A physical rose, a solid, living flower emitting that smell. Your grandfather's aftershave is tethered to your grandfather. But imagine how spooky it would be if suddenly an entire empty room filled unprompted with the scent of roses or your grandfather's scent long after he passed away. This is what perfume does. It takes an invisible essence that should be paired with a living body and it isolates it and preserves it, almost.

[Erin Manke]

Like it's plucking out a person's spirit. And by the way, that word spirit, it comes from the Latin spiritus, which means breath. And that makes sense because it is through the act of breathing that we.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Take in all the odors of the world. I hope you've enjoyed today's little spritz of olfactory history. It's fascinating, really.

[Aaron Manke]

A carefully blended perfume can evoke a.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Wide carousel of emotions.

[Erin Manke]

Nostalgia, calm, happiness, you name it. But it turns out that humans are.

[Aaron Manke]

Good at smelling and producing another scent.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

All on their own. Fear itself.

[Erin Manke]

And I have one last story to.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Demonstrate what I mean.

[Erin Manke]

Stick around through this brief sponsor break.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

To hear all about it.

[Aaron Manke]

This episode was sponsored by BetterHelp. Workplace stress is now one of the top causes of declining mental health, with 61% of the global workforce experiencing higher.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Than normal levels of stress.

[Aaron Manke]

To battle stress, most of us can't.

[Erin Manke]

Wave goodbye to work.

[Aaron Manke]

But we can start small with a focus on wellness, reading a good book, sitting outside in the sun, or going for a walk. And sure, a holiday would be great. But that isn't a long term solution to stress. Rather than escaping it for a moment, the best thing to learn is to manage it, because therapy can help us navigate whatever challenges the workday or any day might bring. I know how important and helpful therapy can be, and it isn't just for folks who have experienced major trauma. Therapy is helpful for learning positive coping skills and how to manage stress. With over 30,000 therapists, BetterHelp is the world's largest online therapy platform, having served over 5 million people globally. And it works with an App store rating of 4.9 out of 5 stars based on over 1.7 million client reviews. It's convenient too. You can join a session with a therapist at the click of a button, helping you fit therapy into your busy life. Plus switch therapists anytime. As the largest online therapy provider in the world, BetterHelp can provide access to mental health professionals with a diverse variety of expertise. Unwind from work with BetterHelp, our listeners get 10% off their first month at betterhelp.com lore that's BetterHelp H-E-L-P.com lore this episode was also made possible by Mint Mobile. You know what doesn't belong in your epic summer plans? Getting burned by your old wireless bill. While you're planning beach trips, barbecues and three day weekends, your wireless bill should be the last thing holding you back. That's why I recommend Mint Mobile. With Mint, you can get the coverage and speed you're used to, but for way less money. And for a limited time, Mint mobile is offering three months of unlimited premium wireless service for 15 bucks a month. So while your friends are sweating over data, overages and surprise charges, you'll be chilling, literally and financially. All plans come with high speed data and unlimited talk and text delivered on the nation's largest 5G network. You can use your own phone with any Mint Mobile plan and bring your phone number along with all your existing contacts. If I needed a new mobile provider today, Mint Mobile would be who I would use, no questions asked. I've watched grim and mild teammates set up their Mint Mobile plans and it is incredibly simple. Plus, the savings are just too good to pass up. This year. Skip breaking a sweat and breaking the bank. Get this new customer offer and your 3 month unlimited wireless plan for just 15 bucks a [e-mail] lore that's mintmobile.com lore upfront payment of $45 required, equivalent to $15 per month month limited time new customer offer for first 3 months only. Speeds may slow above 35gb on unlimited plan, taxes and fees extra. See Mint Mobile for details. This episode was also made possible by quints. I'm not big on trends, but I am big on clothes that feel good and last. That's why I keep going back to quints. Their lightweight layers and high quality staples have become my everyday essentials. And I mean it. I wear one of their 100% merino wool all season T shirts every single day and I just ordered more. If you've been looking for T shirts that fit great and hold up well over time, I really think you should give Quince a try. I know. I am glad I did. Quint's has all the things you actually want to wear this summer, like organic cotton silk polos, European linen beach shorts and comfortable pants that work everything from backyard hangs to nice dinners. And the best part? Everything with Quince is half the cost of similar brands. By working directly with top artisans and cutting out the middlemen and Quince gives you luxury pieces without the markups. And on top of all of that, Quince only works with factories that use safe, ethical and responsible manufacturing practices and premium fabrics and finishes.

[Erin Manke]

Stick to the staples that last with.

[Aaron Manke]

Elevated essentials from quince. Go to quince.com lore for free shipping on your order and 365 day returns. That's Q-U-I-N-C-E.com lore to get free shipping and 365 day returns. Quince.com lore and finally, this episode was made possible by Avocado Green Mattress. The older I get, the more obsessed I become with getting a good night's sleep. Without that, I've got no energy and no motivation. And with everything I've got going on.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

That can be rough.

[Aaron Manke]

Which is why I love Avocado Green Mattress. All Avocado mattresses are crafted with certified organic latex wool and cotton, ensuring a safe, healthy sleep environment free from harmful chemicals and toxins. They're designed to provide exceptional comfort and support with options designed to meet diverse sleep needs. And you can even take their mattress quiz to see which mattress and comfort option is right for you. Avocado promotes better sleep through breathable, naturally temperature regulating materials which can improve overall well being. And Avocado is committed to sustainability too. Their mattresses are made from organic, eco friendly materials that are good for both you and the planet. You can rest easy knowing that Avocado adheres to the highest standards of safety and sustainability. Plus, Avocado offers sleep trials up to one year and has generous warranties. Shop now at avocadomatress.com and save 15% on certified organic mattresses. Avocado Mattress Dream of Better.

[Erin Manke]

When the.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Skydivers jumped from the plane, they were terrified. No one in the group had ever been skydiving before after all. And despite everyone's excitement, one can only.

[Erin Manke]

Imagine the panic flooding through their nervous systems as they plummeted toward the Earth. Except, well, we don't have to imagine it because there's scientific proof.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Let me explain. Fear is mental, sure, but it's also chemical.

[Erin Manke]

When we're frightened, hormones like cortisol and.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Adrenaline flood through our bodies. And in 2008, a research team at.

[Erin Manke]

Stony Brook University in New York had an idea.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

What if those chemicals, when inhaled by.

[Erin Manke]

Someone else, could make that stress contagious? In other words, what is the smell of fear? And so the Stony Brook researchers organized.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

A Tandem Skydive of 144 first time.

[Erin Manke]

Jumpers with a very specific to collect.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Their sweat as they fell.

[Erin Manke]

They did this by taping absorbent pads to their armpits. Not exactly high tech, I know, but. But it did the trick. And then next, a new group of.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Volunteers joined the study.

[Erin Manke]

But these folks weren't jumping out of any airplanes.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

No, they were placed into FMRI machines. And then that skydiver sweat was wafted under their noses. Which is when the scanners began to light up.

[Erin Manke]

Their brains were showing undeniable signs of fear.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

And I know what you're thinking. Plenty of people feel panicked inside of MRI machines.

[Erin Manke]

Was it really the sweat causing it to. Well, the researchers were one step ahead of you, because unbeknownst to those skydivers, they weren't all smelling the same sweat.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Some of them had been given skydive.

[Erin Manke]

Sweat, while others were given sweat collected from those same skydivers, but on a different day while simply running on a treadmill. And as it turns out, those who inhale the treadmill sweat showed noticeably less.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Activity in the fear zones of the brain than those huffing on skydiving sweat.

[Erin Manke]

In another study, volunteers were given stress.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Infused sweat to smell and then shown pictures of human faces bearing various expressions.

[Erin Manke]

Those who inhaled the stress sweat were.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Better able to point out subtle anger than those who didn't.

[Erin Manke]

That's right. Smelling someone else's fear actually heightened their.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Ability to identify a threat.

[Erin Manke]

And I have to say, all of this has some pretty chilling implications. Because if fear can be induced by.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

A mere scent on the air, what is stopping us from turning that into a weapon? And sure, there could be less sinister.

[Erin Manke]

Applications for this, like making training for stressful jobs more realistic, or even being a stimulant to keep drivers awake on long road trips. But like witches perfumes of old, there are also concerns that this fear chemical.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Could be synthesized and used for evil. Imagine an invisible mist of dread and horror rolling over a crowd of protesters or concertgoers. What panic would ensue?

[Erin Manke]

Could it cause stampedes would friends and family members turn on one another. But before you get too worried, I.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Should tell you that experts aren't concerned.

[Erin Manke]

To quote one psychologist, even if the.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Chemical was to be unleashed in a.

[Erin Manke]

Crowd, it would be highly unlikely to cause mass panic. Fear is biological, of course, but the important thing is the psychology and how you cognitively appraise the situation.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

I don't think you'd get terrified for no obvious reason.

[Erin Manke]

But then again, if you've ever sprinted up the basement stairs certain of an invisible threat at your back, then you know full well people get terrified for no reason at all, all the time.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

And there's a good reason to be wary.

[Erin Manke]

Because here's the thing.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

The group that originally funded all of this research was a little organization called the U.S. military.

[Erin Manke]

This episode of Lore was produced by me, Erin Manke, with writing by Jenna Rose Nethercott, research by Cassandra d' Alba.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

And music by Chad Lawson.

[Erin Manke]

Don't like hearing the ads? I've got a solution for you. There is a paid version of Lore.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

On Apple Podcasts and patreon that is 100% ad free.

[Erin Manke]

Plus subscribers also get weekly bonus episodes we call Lore Bytes. It's a bargain for all of that ad free storytelling and a great way to support the show and the team behind it. Learn more [e-mail] support lore is also.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Much more than just a podcast.

[Erin Manke]

There's the three volume World of Lore.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Book series available in bookstores and online, and two seasons of the television adaptation on Amazon Prime. Information about all of that and more is available [e-mail] and you can also follow this show on platforms like Blue sky and YouTube.

[Erin Manke]

Just search for lore podcast all one.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

Word and then click that follow button.

[Erin Manke]

And when you do, say hi.

[Jenna Rose Nethercott]

I like it when people say hi. And as always, thanks for listening.