Podcast Summary: New Rory & Mal – “Checking In With Salehe Bembury”

Release Date: October 30, 2025
Podcast: New Rory & Mal
Guest: Salehe Bembury (Renowned footwear designer)
Hosts: Rory, Mal, and Markin Delicato

Overview

This episode features trailblazing designer Salehe Bembury, celebrated for his iconic collaborations and distinct design aesthetic in the sneaker and streetwear realms. With his own footwear brand Sponge and a new book launch, Salehe shares insights from his career journey, the evolution of sneaker culture, his creative philosophy, and personal stories, including a unique friendship with André 3000. The conversation blends humor, nostalgia, and candid takes on hype, brand ownership, and the business of design.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Transition to Independence and Brand Creation

• Salehe’s Journey ([03:36]-[04:20])

  • Began with a dream to work at a major brand and transitioned to see himself as a business after years of successful collaborations.
  • The realization that “I myself am a business. I’m not necessarily just this artist that gets brought in to throw some colors on the black and white, whatever. I am actually a business myself.” ([04:27])
  • Noted the difference in financial reward between being a collaborator vs. owning the brand: “It’d be nice to have the entire pie.” ([05:21])

• Learning From Corporate Experience

  • Worked for Versace, Cole Haan, Yeezy, and Crocs before launching his own venture.
  • Each role taught him business, design, and brand management fundamentals.

2. Salehe’s Authentic Aesthetic & the Role of Individualism

• Cultural Roots & Individualism ([06:26])

  • Growing up in New York fostered a strong sense of authenticity and self-expression.
  • Observes a shift where “individualism was a high priority... these days, that doesn’t really exist as much.”
  • Emphasizes his commitment to authenticity: “I don’t think anyone can be myself better than me.” ([06:26])

• Balance of Artistry and Commerce

  • Discusses the challenge of bringing personal taste into commercially successful products: “maintaining that balance of commercial and my taste.” ([07:27])

3. Nature’s Influence on Salehe’s Work

• Nature as Inspiration ([07:50])
  • Move to LA led to a newfound appreciation for nature, influencing both shoe function and style.
  • Designed functional pieces like shoes with whistles inspired by hikes and natural environments: “I made a shoe with a whistle on it because I was like, wow, I’m out in this environment where I need tools.” ([08:30])
  • Avoids narrative pretense—his designs reflect lived experience, not forced storytelling: “It would have been strange if I was in LA trying to tell a New York story.” ([09:07])

4. Collaborations, Creative Process & Design Evolution

• Collaboration to Brand Ownership ([10:01])

  • In collaborations (e.g., Versace), his role was to “make a shoe that was the best for Versace,” versus full creative freedom in his own brand projects.
  • Now trusted to run campaigns and oversee their artistic direction due to “history of proof of concept and success.” ([10:26])

• Details, Storytelling & Packaging ([16:41])

  • Sees every touchpoint (even packaging) as an opportunity for detail and branding, comparing the unboxing experience to Apple products: “Every piece of real estate on a product is an opportunity to execute detail or display your brand or portray excellence.” ([17:41])
  • On Sponge’s early presence: Deliberately inserted the Sponge logo into collaborative campaigns to build brand familiarity. ([27:55])

5. Changes in Sneaker Culture & Hype

• Death of Hype and Market Shifts ([11:53])

  • “I’ve been witnessing the death of hype... brands are not investing in collaborations as much... there is a huge over saturation of product.”
  • Notes the shift where now "classic Jordan ones are just sitting on the shelves,” and how community’s values have flipped compared with the exclusivity of the past.

• Community and New Wave of Creators

  • “It’s long gone are the days where Jordans would sell out... Now I’m paying resale for your shoe, or Joe Fresh Goods, or Action Bronson’s New Balance.” ([14:27])
  • Collaborators and designers are now the new tastemakers, shaping a more personal, story-driven culture.

6. Business Decisions: Scarcity vs. Accessibility

• On Product Releases ([29:43])
  • Weighs the pros and cons of tight, exclusive drops vs. larger, more accessible releases.
  • Sees the new brand (Sponge) as “about the full pie” ([27:12]): aiming for broader accessibility while retaining moments of hype.

7. Merch, Quality, and Moment vs. Longevity

• Merch Philosophy ([51:38])
  • Argues that for merch, the moment and storytelling can matter more than premium quality, which is reserved for longer-lasting brands.
  • “You’re not gonna be like, ‘let me feel that collar’” ([53:32]) — It’s about capturing an era or moment, not necessarily garment construction.
  • Heavy quality is appreciated, but, “the idea of merch is ultimately to have a high margin.” ([54:24])

8. Favorite Designers & Inspirations

• Shoutouts to Influences ([23:03])

  • Tinker Hatfield, Nathan Van Hook, Jeff Henderson, Fardeen Hazrati Zadeh, Tebow (formerly Dior)—mentions camaraderie among footwear designers.

• Representational Impact of Virgil Abloh & Pharrell ([47:09])

  • Virgil’s LV role, traveling style, and acceptance were pivotal for Black creatives: “It was really more about representation... like, wow, we can get there...”
  • Pharrell and others (Kendrick, Tyler, etc.) inspired Salehe to “lean into just being myself.” ([48:52])

9. The Tyrese Haliburton/Puma Basketball Project

• Designing for a Knicks Rival ([58:47])
  • Sentimental about working with Pacers’ Haliburton as a lifelong Knicks fan (“Enemy number one”).
  • “If it was between your team and your career, what are you choosing?” ([59:56])
  • Achieved a childhood dream seeing his shoe worn on an NBA court: “I started weeping, like, proper... This was the little kid in me finally accomplishing the thing I wanted to accomplish my entire life.” ([60:37])

10. Salehe’s Book: “I Make Shoes”

• The Book’s Creation ([62:34])

  • Highlights beautiful design by Play Lab and a cover painting by Delphin Finley.
  • Features a rare transcript with André 3000, reflecting on creativity and vulnerability.
  • “I think I’m one of the first non-rappers to get an Andre feature. We got an Andre feature in that book.” ([63:19])
  • Also includes archival family photos (with Ninja Turtles & O.J. Simpson) and an early letter from Sheck Wes.

• Observations on André 3000

  • Salehe treasures hikes and conversations with the legendary artist, who showed vulnerability even at his career peak: “[André] displayed... some of the vulnerability... because you think some of these people... are godlike creatures. But... he expressed being uncertain, even releasing a flute album.” ([65:21])

11. Global and Cultural Observations

• Retail Expansion & Cultural Fit ([67:39])
  • Although New York born, Salehe would prefer his first brick-and-mortar Sponge store to be in Japan, inspired by Japanese style’s agelessness and freedom from American fashion’s “rules.”
  • “In Japan, like, you’ll see like a 60, 70-year-old dude in full camo and some Jordans, and he’s like being taken very seriously.” ([68:04])

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On Self-Belief:
  “I don’t think anyone can be myself better than me.” — Salehe Bembury ([06:26])
• On Business Ownership:
  “It’d be nice to have the entire pie, you know... very grateful, but it'd be nice to…” — Salehe Bembury ([05:21])
• On Market Change:
  “I've been witnessing the death of hype… The consumer is more educated than they've ever been. So they see through the like very easily.” — Salehe Bembury ([11:53])
• On Creativity and Function:
  “I made a shoe with a whistle on it because I was like, wow... I need tools.” — Salehe Bembury ([08:30])
• On Representation:
  “It was like, wow, we can get there. We can be accepted in this space and have success... He was in the back of whatever dope car... in a hoodie with Jordans on.” — Salehe on Virgil Abloh ([47:09])
• On Friendship with André 3000:
  “[André 3000] displayed vulnerability... It was really empowering... you look at all the people that we worship, and you're like, no, they just... they cough.” — Salehe Bembury ([65:21])
• On Design Details:
  “Every piece of real estate on a product is an opportunity to execute detail or display your brand or portray excellence.” — Salehe Bembury ([17:41])

Timestamps for Key Segments

• Transition to Ownership: 03:36–05:24
• Importance of Individualism: 06:20–07:27
• Nature and Design: 07:41–09:15
• Sneaker Culture, Hype & Resale: 11:01–14:27
• Packaging as Art: 16:41–17:41
• Virgil Abloh’s Influence: 46:01–48:50
• Design Process & Collaborations: 18:24–22:14
• Merch Philosophy: 51:38–54:24
• Haliburton/Puma Basketball Story: 58:47–61:59
• “I Make Shoes” Book: 62:34–64:59
• Cultural Reflections & Japan: 67:39–68:34

Tone & Vibe

The episode is energetic, earnest, and conversational—mixing playful banter with deep dives into design, business, and culture. Salehe comes across as thoughtful and candid, sharing both practical lessons and philosophical musings, while the hosts keep the spirit light and relatable for sneakerheads and broader listeners alike.

Takeaways for Listeners

• Understanding the journey from collaborator to business owner, including the creative and financial motivations.
• Insider perspective on how sneaker culture is shifting, with less focus on hype and more on narrative and community.
• Why authenticity, detail, and representation matter in modern design and branding.
• A rare glimpse into Salehe’s friendship with André 3000, and what it means to connect creativity and vulnerability.
• How future style and brand ownership is likely to evolve—with greater accessibility, global inspiration, and emphasis on individuality.

For full stories, design wisdom, and more, listen to the full episode of New Rory & Mal: “Checking In With Salehe Bembury.”