Noble Blood: "Count Orlok's Coat" (with Linda Muir) – Detailed Summary
Release Date: February 18, 2025
Hosts: Dana Schwartz (iHeartPodcasts and Grim & Mild)
Introduction
In this compelling episode of Noble Blood, host Dana Schwartz delves into the intricate world of costume design for Robert Eggers' latest film, Nosferatu. Joining her is the Oscar-nominated costume designer Linda Muir, renowned for her meticulously researched and historically accurate work on films like The Witch, The Lighthouse, and The Northman. Together, they explore how Muir's expertise brings to life the character of Count Orlok and other figures in the movie, emphasizing the blend of historical authenticity and creative interpretation.
The Genesis of the Costume Design Process
Linda Muir begins by outlining the foundational approach Robert Eggers takes towards filmmaking, particularly his emphasis on detail:
"Robert Eggers is an incredibly detail oriented director, writer. He has this wonderful habit of creating lookbooks... he uses those images while he's writing to embed detail actually into the scripts."
— [01:54]
Muir explains that the collaborative production team, including the production designer Craig Lathrop and director of photography Jaron, engage in extensive pre-production research. This collective effort ensures that each costume not only aligns with the script but also enhances the film's atmospheric setting.
Researching Historical Fashion
The discussion shifts to the challenges of sourcing authentic 19th-century German fashion plates to inform the costumes for Nosferatu. Muir highlights the language barrier and the meticulous effort required to find period-accurate garments:
"I really wanted German fashion plates. And I don't speak German. And so really locating a full range of... it was really exciting because then, particularly for the gentlemen... it was much more accessible."
— [03:48]
With the assistance of her team member Anna Munro, who is fluent in German, Muir successfully acquires a comprehensive collection of fashion plates from the era (1835-1839). This research is crucial in avoiding anachronisms and ensuring that the costumes authentically reflect the period's style.
Crafting Count Orlok’s Iconic Coat
A significant portion of the conversation centers on the creation of Count Orlok's overcoat, a standout element in his characterization:
"That consisted of the very large overcoat, which has the incredibly long sleeves... it's all fur lined to keep me warm in my stone castle with no central heating... gold galloons and incredible buttons."
— [14:35]
Muir describes the overcoat as a fusion of practicality and menace, featuring:
- Exaggerated Sleeves: Inspired by shepherds' sheepskin cloaks, the sleeves are extended to create a dramatic silhouette.
- Luxurious Fabrics: The use of rich materials underscores Orlok's wealth and status.
- Gold Embellishments: Crocheted gold buttons, weighted with fish weights, mimic the opulent but historically accurate painted glass buttons of the time.
This costume not only serves as a visual representation of Orlok's character but also enhances his eerie presence throughout the film.
Balancing Practicality with Visual Impact
Muir addresses the practical challenges of designing such a heavy and elaborate costume:
"The weight of the overcoat... every time in fittings, it would just slide off his shoulders. So... we devised a harness that he wore underneath the dolmen... it would just stay on his shoulders and float around with him."
— [16:25]
This ingenious solution ensures that the actor can move fluidly without the costume becoming cumbersome, maintaining both the aesthetic integrity and the actor's comfort.
Integrating Folk Costuming and Cultural Authenticity
The episode also explores the incorporation of Romanian folk costumes, a testament to the film's dedication to cultural authenticity:
"Respect given to the folk costuming of Romania... it was really difficult, really difficult to find the information because neither Robert nor I speak Romanian."
— [22:33]
Muir emphasizes the painstaking research involved in accurately depicting pre-photography era costumes through illustrations and translated texts. This effort culminates in garments that resonate with historical significance and cultural depth, enriching the film's narrative.
Highlighting the Mustache: A Signature Element
A seemingly minor detail, Count Orlok's mustache, plays a pivotal role in his characterization:
"The first thing I think that Robert really cottoned onto was the notion that he had to have a mustache... there's no way around this."
— [11:22]
This feature not only grounds the character in the era but also adds to his menacing and authoritative presence, distinguishing him from more stylized vampire portrayals.
The Dual Purpose of Accessories
Muir discusses the significance of additional costume elements, such as Orlok's Kolpak hat:
"It has this potentially quite overwhelming hat... the embellishment of the hawk feathers and bejeweled at the front with the pearls and jewels."
— [16:30]
The hat serves a dual purpose: it obscures Orlok's rotting visage and pays homage to traditional vampire imagery, blending horror with historical fashion seamlessly.
Favorite Costume Elements and Emotional Reflections
When asked about her favorite costume, Muir reflects on the complexity and impact of her creations:
"Orlok is... it could have been an incredibly terrifying notion to design such an iconic character."
— [21:54]
She expresses a profound connection to the work, particularly appreciating how each costume piece contributes to the storytelling and character development.
Conclusion
Dana Schwartz wraps up the episode by lauding the exceptional costume design in Nosferatu, urging listeners to pay close attention to the visual details that enhance the film's haunting atmosphere. Muir receives heartfelt congratulations for her Oscar-nominated work, highlighting the collaborative success that brings historical authenticity and creative brilliance to the screen.
Notable Quotes with Timestamps:
-
Research Process:
"Robert Eggers is an incredibly detail oriented director... he gathers together images and he groups them not just for instance, by character..."
— Linda Muir, [01:54] -
German Fashion Plates:
"I really wanted German fashion plates. And I don't speak German..."
— Linda Muir, [03:48] -
Count Orlok’s Overcoat:
"That consisted of the very large overcoat, which has the incredibly long sleeves..."
— Linda Muir, [14:35] -
Harness Solution:
"We devised a harness that he wore underneath the dolmen... it would just stay on his shoulders..."
— Linda Muir, [16:25] -
Folk Costuming:
"Respect given to the folk costuming of Romania... it was really difficult..."
— Linda Muir, [22:33] -
Mustache Importance:
"There's no way around this."
— Linda Muir, [11:22] -
Favorite Costume:
"Orlok is... it could have been an incredibly terrifying notion to design such an iconic character."
— Linda Muir, [21:54]
This detailed summary encapsulates the essence of the podcast episode, highlighting the depth of research and creative ingenuity behind the costume design in Nosferatu. For enthusiasts of historical fashion and film, this discussion offers valuable insights into the meticulous process of bringing a 19th-century vampire to life on screen.