NPR's Book of the Day: Summary of "New Cookbook 'Jiggle!' Aims to Bring Gelatin Back in Style"

NPR's Book of the Day, hosted by Andrew Limbong, dives into the resurgence of a nostalgic ingredient with the latest cookbook, Jiggle!, authored by Peter DeMario and Judith Choate. Released on December 24, 2024, this episode explores how Jiggle! revitalizes gelatin, transforming it from its traditional sweet roots into a versatile component for both savory and innovative dishes.

Introduction to Jiggle!

Andrew Limbong opens the episode by situating listeners in the heart of the holiday season, a time synonymous with indulgent treats. He introduces Jiggle!, a cookbook dedicated to gelatin, challenging the conventional perception of gelatin as merely a medium for sweet desserts. Limbong remarks:

"There are other savory routes you can take with gelatin... modernizing these recipes for today will change your mind."
[00:02]

The Genesis of Jiggle! and Choosing Gelatin

Deepa Fernandez, NPR's correspondent, engages Peter DeMario in a discussion about the inspiration behind Jiggle!. DeMario reveals that during the pandemic, while others pursued hobbies like pet ownership or cycling, he delved into experimenting with gelatin. He explains:

"It started out as more of an aesthetic thing. I was really curious to play with color and shapes and how to suspend things in the gelatin and make it look beautiful."
[02:26]

Understanding Gelatin: Beyond Traditional Jell-O

Fernandez seeks clarity on what gelatin truly is, beyond the commercial Jell-O varieties. DeMario elaborates on its origins and composition:

"Gelatin... is made from animal products that are cooked down to create a gelled substance... I generally tend to use prepackaged powder gelatin, like a Nox gelatin that you could find anywhere."
[03:14]

He also introduces a vegan alternative:

"Agar agar is... a vegan gelatin substance, and it's a derivative of seaweed... it's a great vegan alternative, and I do use that in a couple of recipes as well."
[04:04]

Reviving the 1970s Gelatin Craze

The conversation shifts to the 1970s, a decade famed for its gelatin-centric culinary trends. DeMario reflects on the era's fascination:

"People were using really strange ingredients... jello salads, and they were putting savory items into lime gelatin, like tuna and cottage cheese."
[04:43]

He discusses the cookbook's mission to modernize these vintage recipes:

"We really wanted to make sure that it wasn't all just the standard sweet gelatins... gelatin is kind of used as an agent to keep everything together in this beautiful, almost terrine looking dish."
[05:43]

Signature Recipes: From Ambrosia to Savory Terrines

One standout recipe featured is Grandma's Ambrosia, a nostalgic dessert reimagined using gelatin molds:

"It still has that beautiful coconut flavor. There's pineapple in it, there's coconut flakes and marshmallow... it's definitely one of the most nostalgic dishes in the cookbook."
[06:31]

DeMario also highlights savory creations, such as dishes combining leek, potatoes, and salmon, showcasing gelatin's versatility beyond sweets.

Mastering the Art of Gelatin: Tips and Techniques

Fernandez appreciates the cookbook's practical advice and probes into techniques for working with gelatin molds. DeMario shares actionable tips:

"Use a little bit of a non-flavored oil in the mold before starting. It really helps get it to come out smoother."
[07:35]

He further advises on easing the mold out:

"Put the mold in a little warm water so the edges melt just enough so that the mold slides out easier onto your serving plate."
[07:35]

Creating Visually Stunning Gelatin Dishes

A key aspect of Jiggle! is the visual appeal of its gelatin dishes. DeMario explains methods to suspend ingredients, ensuring they appear to float:

"You let the mixture set... until it starts to thicken... start to stir the gold leaf in. That way it doesn't settle directly to the bottom."
[08:42]

Elevated Gelatin Shots: A Modern Twist on a Classic

The episode culminates with a discussion on gelatin-based drinks. DeMario introduces sophisticated versions of jello shots:

"My recipes may not be as strong as some of the traditional jello shots. They still have alcohol in them, but they're really tasty... they look great at parties."
[09:56]

Highlighted recipes include Watermelon Margarita Bites and Bloody Mary brunch shots, which blend fresh ingredients and quality liquors for a refined party offering.

Conclusion

NPR's Book of the Day effectively showcases Jiggle! as a contemporary take on gelatin, bridging the gap between nostalgic appeals and modern culinary artistry. With practical tips and inventive recipes, Peter DeMario and Judith Choate invite home cooks to rediscover gelatin's potential, making it a centerpiece for holiday gatherings and beyond.

For those intrigued by these gelatin innovations, Jiggle! offers a detailed guide to transforming an age-old ingredient into delightful, visually appealing dishes that cater to today’s diverse palates.

Notable Quotes:

• Andrew Limbong on Gelatin's Versatility:
  "There are other savory routes you can take with gelatin... modernizing these recipes for today will change your mind."
  [00:02]

• Peter DeMario on Experimenting with Gelatin:
  "It started out as more of an aesthetic thing. I was really curious to play with color and shapes and how to suspend things in the gelatin and make it look beautiful."
  [02:26]

• DeMario on Vegan Alternatives:
  "Agar agar is... a vegan gelatin substance, and it's a derivative of seaweed... it's a great vegan alternative, and I do use that in a couple of recipes as well."
  [04:04]

• On Reviving 70s Gelatin Trends:
  "People were using really strange ingredients... jello salads, and they were putting savory items into lime gelatin, like tuna and cottage cheese."
  [04:43]

• Tips for Gelatin Molds:
  "Use a little bit of a non-flavored oil in the mold before starting. It really helps get it out smoother."
  [07:35]

• Creating Floating Ingredients:
  "You let the mixture set... until it starts to thicken... start to stir the gold leaf in. That way it doesn't settle directly to the bottom."
  [08:42]

• Elevated Gelatin Shots:
  "My recipes may not be as strong as some of the traditional jello shots. They still have alcohol in them, but they're really tasty... they look great at parties."
  [09:56]

For more delectable gelatin recipes like Grandma's Ambrosia and Watermelon Margarita Bites, visit kiranow.org.