New cookbook 'Jiggle!' aims to bring gelatin back in style

Summary

NPR's Book of the Day: Summary of "New Cookbook 'Jiggle!' Aims to Bring Gelatin Back in Style"

NPR's Book of the Day, hosted by Andrew Limbong, dives into the resurgence of a nostalgic ingredient with the latest cookbook, Jiggle!, authored by Peter DeMario and Judith Choate. Released on December 24, 2024, this episode explores how Jiggle! revitalizes gelatin, transforming it from its traditional sweet roots into a versatile component for both savory and innovative dishes.

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Introduction to Jiggle!

Andrew Limbong opens the episode by situating listeners in the heart of the holiday season, a time synonymous with indulgent treats. He introduces Jiggle!, a cookbook dedicated to gelatin, challenging the conventional perception of gelatin as merely a medium for sweet desserts. Limbong remarks:

"There are other savory routes you can take with gelatin... modernizing these recipes for today will change your mind."
[00:02]

The Genesis of Jiggle! and Choosing Gelatin

Deepa Fernandez, NPR's correspondent, engages Peter DeMario in a discussion about the inspiration behind Jiggle!. DeMario reveals that during the pandemic, while others pursued hobbies like pet ownership or cycling, he delved into experimenting with gelatin. He explains:

"It started out as more of an aesthetic thing. I was really curious to play with color and shapes and how to suspend things in the gelatin and make it look beautiful."
[02:26]

Understanding Gelatin: Beyond Traditional Jell-O

Fernandez seeks clarity on what gelatin truly is, beyond the commercial Jell-O varieties. DeMario elaborates on its origins and composition:

"Gelatin... is made from animal products that are cooked down to create a gelled substance... I generally tend to use prepackaged powder gelatin, like a Nox gelatin that you could find anywhere."
[03:14]

He also introduces a vegan alternative:

"Agar agar is... a vegan gelatin substance, and it's a derivative of seaweed... it's a great vegan alternative, and I do use that in a couple of recipes as well."
[04:04]

Reviving the 1970s Gelatin Craze

The conversation shifts to the 1970s, a decade famed for its gelatin-centric culinary trends. DeMario reflects on the era's fascination:

"People were using really strange ingredients... jello salads, and they were putting savory items into lime gelatin, like tuna and cottage cheese."
[04:43]

He discusses the cookbook's mission to modernize these vintage recipes:

"We really wanted to make sure that it wasn't all just the standard sweet gelatins... gelatin is kind of used as an agent to keep everything together in this beautiful, almost terrine looking dish."
[05:43]

Signature Recipes: From Ambrosia to Savory Terrines

One standout recipe featured is Grandma's Ambrosia, a nostalgic dessert reimagined using gelatin molds:

"It still has that beautiful coconut flavor. There's pineapple in it, there's coconut flakes and marshmallow... it's definitely one of the most nostalgic dishes in the cookbook."
[06:31]

DeMario also highlights savory creations, such as dishes combining leek, potatoes, and salmon, showcasing gelatin's versatility beyond sweets.

Mastering the Art of Gelatin: Tips and Techniques

Fernandez appreciates the cookbook's practical advice and probes into techniques for working with gelatin molds. DeMario shares actionable tips:

"Use a little bit of a non-flavored oil in the mold before starting. It really helps get it to come out smoother."
[07:35]

He further advises on easing the mold out:

"Put the mold in a little warm water so the edges melt just enough so that the mold slides out easier onto your serving plate."
[07:35]

Creating Visually Stunning Gelatin Dishes

A key aspect of Jiggle! is the visual appeal of its gelatin dishes. DeMario explains methods to suspend ingredients, ensuring they appear to float:

"You let the mixture set... until it starts to thicken... start to stir the gold leaf in. That way it doesn't settle directly to the bottom."
[08:42]

Elevated Gelatin Shots: A Modern Twist on a Classic

The episode culminates with a discussion on gelatin-based drinks. DeMario introduces sophisticated versions of jello shots:

"My recipes may not be as strong as some of the traditional jello shots. They still have alcohol in them, but they're really tasty... they look great at parties."
[09:56]

Highlighted recipes include Watermelon Margarita Bites and Bloody Mary brunch shots, which blend fresh ingredients and quality liquors for a refined party offering.

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Conclusion

NPR's Book of the Day effectively showcases Jiggle! as a contemporary take on gelatin, bridging the gap between nostalgic appeals and modern culinary artistry. With practical tips and inventive recipes, Peter DeMario and Judith Choate invite home cooks to rediscover gelatin's potential, making it a centerpiece for holiday gatherings and beyond.

For those intrigued by these gelatin innovations, Jiggle! offers a detailed guide to transforming an age-old ingredient into delightful, visually appealing dishes that cater to today’s diverse palates.

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Notable Quotes:

• Andrew Limbong on Gelatin's Versatility:
  "There are other savory routes you can take with gelatin... modernizing these recipes for today will change your mind."
  [00:02]

• Peter DeMario on Experimenting with Gelatin:
  "It started out as more of an aesthetic thing. I was really curious to play with color and shapes and how to suspend things in the gelatin and make it look beautiful."
  [02:26]

• DeMario on Vegan Alternatives:
  "Agar agar is... a vegan gelatin substance, and it's a derivative of seaweed... it's a great vegan alternative, and I do use that in a couple of recipes as well."
  [04:04]

• On Reviving 70s Gelatin Trends:
  "People were using really strange ingredients... jello salads, and they were putting savory items into lime gelatin, like tuna and cottage cheese."
  [04:43]

• Tips for Gelatin Molds:
  "Use a little bit of a non-flavored oil in the mold before starting. It really helps get it out smoother."
  [07:35]

• Creating Floating Ingredients:
  "You let the mixture set... until it starts to thicken... start to stir the gold leaf in. That way it doesn't settle directly to the bottom."
  [08:42]

• Elevated Gelatin Shots:
  "My recipes may not be as strong as some of the traditional jello shots. They still have alcohol in them, but they're really tasty... they look great at parties."
  [09:56]

---

For more delectable gelatin recipes like Grandma's Ambrosia and Watermelon Margarita Bites, visit kiranow.org.

Transcript

[Andrew Limbong]

Hey, it's NPR's Book of the Day. I'm Andrew Limbong. Alright, we're pretty deep into the holiday season at this point, which means it's also treats season. And today we've got a cookbook for you right up that alley. It's called Jiggle by Peter Demario and Judith Choate. And it's about Jell O. Now in listening to this interview between Peter demario and here now's Deepa Fernandez, it's clear that I'm doing Jell O and gelatin a disservice by just relegating it to the world of treats. There are other, other savory routes you can take with gelatin. Now if you're like me and your mind is jumping to the 70s craze when people were doing some wild things with the ingredient, well, maybe hearing DeMario talk about modernizing these recipes for today will change your mind. That's ahead.

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[Deepa Fernandez]

Style and nearly every gathering included a colorful molded jello salad. Remember them well. If you missed it, it's back. A new cookbook is called Jiggle and it includes a whole range of recipes for sweet, savory and layered gelatin dishes. And there are gelatin shots. It's written by Peter demario with Judith Choate. And Peter Demario joins me now. Peter, hello. Welcome.

[Peter DeMario]

Hello. Thank you so much for having me.

[Deepa Fernandez]

So it's such a fun book. I feel like it's what we all need coming into the holidays. So, so thank you to you and Judith for bringing the fun back. And let's talk about came to be because you write in the introduction that the book came out of the pandemic when you had time on your hands and you started experimenting with gelatin. I mean, you know, everybody else was getting an extra pet and a bicycle. You were experimenting with gelatin. Tell me why gelatin?

[Peter DeMario]

Well, I wish I had a perfect answer for you for that because I'm not exactly sure why gelatin. I mean, a lot of my friends were Playing with breads and baking breads at home and banana breads and sourdough breads. And I just kind of got fascinated by gelatin. It started out as more of an aesthetic thing. I was really curious to play with color and shapes and how to suspend things in the gelatin and make it look beautiful. And it just kind of spiraled. I started to realize that, you know, I could make really beautiful flavors outside of the artificially flavored gelatin that we all kind of grew up with in my age, anyway.

[Deepa Fernandez]

And that's really kind of it. I think when we think gelatin, we think jello, or as we in Australia say, jelly. But what is gelatin, Peter? What is the main ingredient here?

[Peter DeMario]

So gelatin, I mean, there's a lot of different agents that can be used to make gelatin. Primarily, it's made from animal products that are cooked down to create a gelled substance. In, you know, the Victorian era, when it was originally created, it was for the super wealthy because obviously they're the only people that access to meat. And by product now you can pretty much get it anywhere. I generally tend to use prepackaged powder gelatin, like a Nox gelatin that you could find anywhere. It's very easy to use. It's very easy to find. But that's kind of the basis of most of the recipes in the cookbook.

[Deepa Fernandez]

Yeah. And let's be clear here for folks so that really, it's not about going and buying that box of jello that you add water and mold. This is about making your own. There's also a vegan alternative, PETA Agar Agar. What's that?

[Peter DeMario]

Yeah. So agar agar is, like you said, it's a vegan gelatin substance, and it's a derivative of seaweed, actually. So it works the same as gelatin. The balance is a little off. So I do recommend that anybody that's going to start experimenting with it to make sure you test the different quantities, because it is a little bit different than standard powdered gelatin. But it's a great vegan alternative, and I do use that in a couple of recipes as well.

[Deepa Fernandez]

Okay. I'm told, Peter, that jello was a thing in the 1970s. I was way too little and wasn't here in America. But why was gelatin so popular then? And why do you think it fell out of fashion?

[Peter DeMario]

Well, I also was too young for the 70s gelatin craze, but it did become super popular. It was in doing research for this book, of course, I look back to Some of these recipes and some of these cookbooks from that era. And it. It honestly blew my mind what people were doing with gelatin. And I. I don't know why it came into fashion so why it was so popular, but it was definitely a thing, and it was definitely weird. People were using really strange ingredients. They were calling it jello salads, and they were putting savory items into lime gelatin with, like, tuna and cottage cheese and all these wild things that we would never even think of using now.

[Deepa Fernandez]

Okay, but I have to say you've taken that because you have a recipe in your book that involves le and potatoes, which is kind of makes me think of leek and potato soup, which then involves salmon. And, I mean, that blew my mind that you could make a Jell O creation that way.

[Peter DeMario]

Yeah. I mean, part of when we were developing this book, we really wanted to make sure that it wasn't all just the standard sweet gelatins that people are familiar with. The challenge there was, how do you take some of those old recipes and flavors and modernize them for today's palette? And I think we worked really hard to make that happen. The dish you're talking about does use gelatin, but it's not the way that you would think. These items aren't floating in a sea of clear gelatin. Gelatin is kind of used as an agent to keep everything together in this beautiful, almost terrine looking dish.

[Deepa Fernandez]

Yeah, it's layered, and I mean, it looks so delicious, it's hard to imagine gelatin or it's a Jell O dish. It's a savory dish. There's another dish, Ambrosia, you know, that's still a staple in some families. Give us your recipe for grandma's ambrosia.

[Peter DeMario]

Sure. Yeah. This was a recipe that was always popular with my family. My grandmother always made it for different parties. It was always a staple, and I wanted to find a way to do it in a mold so that it was something that you could serve as a traditional jello mold, but using the same flavors that she used. So, you know, it still has that beautiful coconut flavor. There's pineapple in it, there's coconut flakes and marshmallow. It's all these things that are so delicious and work so well together. And it also just looks really fun. And it's. It's definitely one of the most nostalgic dishes in the cookbook.

[Deepa Fernandez]

What I appreciate about this cookbook Jiggle, which folks is just so fun, is that there are really simple tips, like the mold how do you get it out of the mold? Your beautiful creation, how do you layer? You know, and I think these things kind of seem hard, but the way you lay it out, it's not so hard. Talk to me about the mold. You know what works when you're trying to. To make a beautiful food creation out of gelatin and then get it out of the mold. Yeah.

[Peter DeMario]

Well, thank you for that. Compliment the book. I should preface all of this by saying I'm not a chef. So these recipes are designed for everyday home cooks. Anybody can make them. Some of them that seem a little more complicated. It's not that it's more difficult, it's just that they take more time. It takes time to layer because you have to let each layer set. So some of them, when you're suspending things in, it takes a little more time, but none of it is technically very difficult when it comes to molds. I mean, traditionally, people use cake pans. The copper molds are super popular, and they work really well because they conduct the cold and the heat very well. So it's easy to. It's easier to remove the items from it. I always recommend using a little bit of a non flavored oil in the mold before starting. It really helps get it to come out smoother. And then you take the mold, you put it in a little warm water so the edges melt just enough so that the mold slides out easier onto your serving plate.

[Deepa Fernandez]

And Peter, I want to ask you about suspending fruit or other ingredients in the gelatin. How do you do that so you make sure they look like they're floating. I mean, the creations in your book look incredible.

[Peter DeMario]

Yeah. This is my favorite part, and this is what I spent a lot of time developing and researching because I became fascinated with this idea. And it started because I wanted to figure out how to do a crystal clear gelatin with things floating in it. For that, I. A lot of times I'll use a clear cream soda so that it has a beautiful flavor. And then you could do it a couple different ways. One way I like to do it is you let the mixture set in the fridge or the freezer for a little bit, depending on the recipe and the quantities, until it starts to thicken. And then if you're using something like gold leaf, you take it out when it's starting to thicken just a little bit, you start to stir the gold leaf in. And that way it doesn't settle directly to the bottom. And there's a couple different ways to do it. You can either do it in the fridge or the freezer. Or you could put a metal bowl inside of another bowl filled with ice and slowly stir until it starts to thicken.

[Deepa Fernandez]

Right. And let's end. Peter, with drinks. Well, shots really made with gelatin. You have a recipe for watermelon margarita bites, Bloody Mary brunch shots, champagne and strawberries. What makes a good gelatin shot? And obviously we're eating this, not drinking it. Is that like, does that mean you might do a few more than you should?

[Peter DeMario]

Yes, of course. I love the gelatin shots, especially when I was turning 21, in my early 20s, everybody was doing jello shots. They were in all the bars. It was such a fun thing. So I wanted to find a way to make it elevated a bit. So my recipes may not be as strong as some of the traditional jello shots. They still have alcohol in them, but they're really tasty. And the Watermelon Margarita Bites are one of the biggest hits. Anytime I make them, people go crazy. They're also sparkly. They have a little bit of salt to them. They're really fun. They look great at parties. So yeah, the jello shots have now been elevated. We're using fresh ingredients, great liquors, and they're definitely a hit at any party for sure.

[Deepa Fernandez]

All right, well, you're welcome, folks. We have it all here for you if you want to make your upcoming holiday parties really sing. Peter DeMario's book is jiggle, a Cookbook, written along with Judith Choate. Peter, thank you.

[Peter DeMario]

Thank you so much for having me. This was so great. Thank you so much.

[Deepa Fernandez]

And we have recipes for Grandma's Ambrosia, Watermelon Margarita Bites and [e-mail].

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