Episode Overview

Podcast: NPR’s Book of the Day
Episode: Russ & Daughters’ Cookbook Documents a Century-Old New York City Establishment
Host: Scott Simon (with intro by Andrew Limbong)
Date: January 5, 2026

In this episode, NPR’s Scott Simon visits the storied Russ & Daughters “appetizing store” on New York’s Lower East Side to discuss their legacy, the newly published cookbook, and what makes this fourth-generation, century-old establishment such a vital touchstone for the city—and for families across America. Cousins and co-owners Josh Russ Tupper and Nikki Russ Fetterman share stories about the history, traditions, unforgettable food, and sense of community that define Russ & Daughters.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. The Enduring Legacy of Russ & Daughters

• Russ & Daughters has been serving New Yorkers for over 114 years (01:50).
• The shop is "the size of a subway car" yet remains bustling and full of life.

  “You're giving us a tour of a place that is maybe 20ft long, right?” —Scott Simon (02:11)

2. What Makes an ‘Appetizing Store’?

• Unlike a traditional deli, which specializes in cured meats like pastrami and corned beef, an appetizing store focuses on fish and dairy, in accordance with Jewish dietary laws (03:43).
• Nikki Russ Fetterman clarifies:

  “We’re not a deli… Delicatessen is where you go for smoked and cured meats… An appetizing store is for fish and dairy.” —Nikki Russ Fetterman (03:43)

3. History & Family Traditions

• The original store was opened by Joel Russ, whose entrepreneurial journey began as a street vendor after immigrating to the US, selling schmaltz herring (04:05).

  “Our great grandfather sold schmaltz herring… just cured in salt from the buschkart.” —Josh Russ Tupper (04:11)

• The business’s name reflects Joel Russ’ reliance on his three daughters for help, as there was no son to inherit the business (08:51).

  “If there had been a son, it probably would have been Russ and sons. But then he had three daughters.” —Nikki Russ Fetterman (09:13)

4. The Artistry of Fish Slicing & Customer Ritual

• Slicing salmon is a distinctive craft requiring a three-month apprenticeship (06:01).

  “So the thinness of the slice with the proper angle gives you that subtlety of flavor…” —Nikki Russ Fetterman (06:10)

• The slicing is done so thin “you might be able to read the fine print on a cell phone contract through it” (Scott Simon, 04:47).
• The act of waiting and watching the slicing fosters connection and conversation between customers and staff (06:30–07:15).

  “Our food, especially, is the food of memory. And so it’s through the food that you connect with others, and you connect with who you are and where you come from… It can transport you immediately to your past into a memory.” —Nikki Russ Fetterman (07:15)

5. The Lower East Side: A Tapestry of Immigrant History

• The surrounding neighborhood is described as “one of the most historically significant places in the United States” (08:06), as a landing spot for waves of immigrants, including Joel Russ and countless others.

  “So many immigrants got their start here after arriving at Ellis Island, this was their landing spot.” —Nikki Russ Fetterman (08:06)

6. Evolving the Business: From Shop to Café

• A decade ago, Russ & Daughters Café opened, allowing customers to sit and enjoy expanded menu options (08:33).
• The establishment is perhaps the first in the US to use “& Daughters” in its name, providing inspiration (and visibility) for female entrepreneurs (08:51).

  “Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg was a lifelong customer of ours… she learned that women could matter in an enterprise the same as men can.” —Nikki Russ Fetterman (10:07)

7. Food, Memory, and the Challenge of Tradition

• The menu includes foods steeped in nostalgia, like matzo brei. Preparing these dishes for countless families is fraught with challenges since everyone’s memory—and recipe—is unique (11:45–12:13).

  “We could never match their taste memory. Now, you have to know to ask for matzo brei, so we’ll make it for you. But you got to work a little hard.” —Nikki Russ Fetterman (12:13)

• The cookbook details family recipes, but also reflects on the communal, intergenerational role of their food.

8. Russ & Daughters as a Community Touchstone

• For many, Russ & Daughters is a pilgrimage site, a living anchor to both neighborhood and personal history (12:44).

  “We have fewer and fewer small businesses, these… touchstones in our communities that… connect us to our past… And Russ and Daughters is that place for so many people.” —Nikki Russ Fetterman (12:44)

• The hope for a fifth generation endures, with the current owners serving as stewards for the future (13:24).

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

On the Taste and Ritual of the Shop:

“A bagel and lox is one of the literal tastes of New York.” —Nikki Russ Fetterman (04:33)

On Slicing Technique:

“My technique was more Freddy Krueger than Itzhak Perlman. Oh, this is no good at all.” —Scott Simon, attempting to slice salmon (05:52)

On Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg’s Inspiration:

"[She] said that growing up, seeing the name Russ and Daughters taught her... that women could matter in an enterprise the same as men can." —Nikki Russ Fetterman (10:07)

On the Food of Memory:

“Our food, especially, is the food of memory… it can transport you immediately to your past into a memory.” —Nikki Russ Fetterman (07:15)

On the Challenge of Nostalgic Dishes:

“Basically, everyone who ordered [matzo brei] was unhappy because… we could never match their taste memory.” —Josh Russ Tupper (12:09), Nikki Russ Fetterman (12:13)

Key Timestamps

• 01:50 — Introduction to Russ & Daughters and history
• 03:43 — The difference between a deli and an appetizing store
• 04:11–04:26 — Family immigration history and the origins of Russ & Daughters
• 06:01 — The art and apprenticeship of fish slicing
• 07:15 — Food as memory and community connection
• 08:06 — Discussion of the Lower East Side’s immigrant legacy
• 08:51–09:31 — The origin of the "& Daughters" in the store’s name
• 10:07 — Ruth Bader Ginsburg’s connection to Russ & Daughters
• 11:38 — The story behind the matzo brei menu dilemma
• 12:44 — Russ & Daughters as a pilgrimage site and community anchor
• 13:24 — Passing the torch to the fifth generation

Summary Tone

The episode is warm, nostalgic, and conversational, with a palpable sense of history and community pride. The family’s wit and openness—alongside Scott Simon’s eager curiosity—make for an engaging portrait of how food, history, and belonging intertwine in a New York institution.

For more on Russ & Daughters or to browse their cookbook, visit NPR.org.