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Andrew Limbong
Hey, it's NPR's Book of the Day. I'm Andrew Limbong. The Last Sweet Bite isn't a straightforward cookbook. There are recipes in it, sure, but it's more about people holding on desperately to the food that makes them feel human. It's written by Michael Shaikh, who is a human rights advocate. And the book profiles six geographical areas that have been racked by war, violence or even genocide. The through all that, people still have to eat, but what they eat might change, depending on their lot in life. Shaikh talks to NPR's Layla Fadle about how recipes are a reflection of both international policies and people's will to persist. That's after the break.
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Layla Fadle
For a decade, Michael Shaikh chronicled the human cost of war. He documented war crimes and human rights abuses in Afghanistan, Pakistan and Sri Lanka, genocide in Myanmar, deadly coups in Bangladesh and Thailand. And later he counted the civilians killed in violence in Mali and Syria. But beyond the life lost, the structures destroyed, Sheikh watched the way war, occupation and violence stole something else from a people, the food they treasured. His new book is called the Last Sweet Stories and Recipes of Culinary Heritage Lost and Found. And he joins me now. Hi.
Michael Shaikh
Hi, Laila.
Layla Fadle
This is really quite an incredible having covered so much conflict myself, it made me think about it a lot.
Michael Shaikh
Thank you.
Layla Fadle
How did you first come to understand the way violence changes cuisine?
Michael Shaikh
Well, it actually had a lot to do with language. My father survived the partition of India and Pakistan in the late 1940s, and he didn't pass down his native language, Sindhi, to my brother and sister. And I fast forward. I'm in Afghanistan working for Human Rights Watch, and I saw the same kind of tentacles of violence that I'd like reached down through generations to steal language from. My brother and sister and I were doing the same things to Afghans, but with recipes and stealing their recipes one at a time.
Layla Fadle
So one day you decide, okay, I'm going to go from documenting literal genocides to looking at how that violence that I'd been Documenting changes, food and really culture. Why is that so important when you're.
Michael Shaikh
In the midst of seeing people going through generations of war, the lengths they will go to to keep their food cultures alive. And it was this, like, incredible persistence. Yeah, it was heroic, and it showed me how important food was to us as humans. And when I had this Rohingya family that I met in Bangladesh, who had fled the genocide there in 2017 in Myanmar, tell me that they had lived in the jungle on leaves and grass for several days, if not weeks. And when they got to the camps in Bangladesh, they had a plate of lentils and rice, which is very much central to Rohingya cuisine. And they said to me, I became Rohingya again in that moment, I became human again. That sentiment was everywhere. Food is more than just calories, but the culture around food was so important to everybody. It was a language in which the elder generations could talk to younger generations. It was identity. It was, in some ways, a way for a community to draw a border around itself and say, this is who we are.
Layla Fadle
You chose to document six places. How did you make the choice to look at cuisine in those specific places?
Michael Shaikh
Those are the places where I had familiarity with, where I had worked for a long time. There were a couple, though, that I didn't have much experience with at all. One being Bolivia. I was always very interested in the impact of the drug war on Andean cuisines, and particularly in Bolivia. And then I have to say that the final chapters of the book, where I was invited into the lives of the Naranjo family in New Mexico, the Santa Clara Pueblo nation, the legacy of the violence there is both kind of the legacy of the Spanish colonialism and American violence. And so I kind of, as an American, wanted to turn the lens on my own country and look at the violence that has been perpetrated against people on this land in order for us to better understand the legacies of colonialism, how it's playing out today.
Layla Fadle
What did you find that colonialization and land grabbing, how did it impact these communities and their food?
Michael Shaikh
It was one of the hardest chapters I had to write because it really forced me to explore the implications of American policy that were developed at the beginning of this country that are still playing out today. And even after 500 years of colonial violence, people are still finding ways to survive and persist, and they've done amazing things to rebuild and relearn and rejuvenate an entire cuisine that had been intentionally destroyed by not only Spanish colonialism, but American policy.
Layla Fadle
In your chapter on The Czech Republic. It's titled how the Communists Tried to Kill a Cuisine. It was interesting because you also explore menus in that chapter, and you quote a celebrity chef there who says menus are mirrors of the public mood of a time. They're a way to see what a society values, what they are thinking, their creativity, as well as their darker sides. I mean, what did he mean by this when he talked about menus being a mirror of the public mood?
Michael Shaikh
The gentleman you're talking about is Roman Vanyich, and he's this kind of Julia Child slash Anthony Bourdain figure in the Czech Republic. But what he meant by that was that when the Nazis invaded the Czech Republic prior to World War II, they had two menus, one for the Czechs and one for the German occupiers. And they had different things on them. The Czechs and also Czech Jews as well, were forced to eat far inferior foods than the German occupiers were allowed to eat. And what Roman meant by that is that by looking at the ingredients, by looking the dishes that you could serve, you could really see who was in charge. You could see whose politics were on the table at that time.
Layla Fadle
Was there any particular recipe that surprised you, that delighted you, that terrified you?
Michael Shaikh
I think if I had to pull one that I found really interesting, it's probably the Rohingya garam masala. The ingredients are like the Rohingya. It straddles both south and Southeast Asia cuisines, and it's just a spectacular garam masala. It uses ingredients that you normally wouldn't see.
Layla Fadle
What would you say to the reader who picks this up? What is this book to them and how should they read it?
Michael Shaikh
Yeah, it's a non traditional book, but I also think it speaks to our moment. Right now we're looking at what these cuts to. Humanitarian aid across the world, the wars in the Middle east and Europe. What I think this book speaks to are the consequences of what happens when these policies and these politics go unchecked. People persist and they survive and try their best, but at the same time, they're up against all odds. It's this, like, David and Goliath story, but also a love story at the same time.
Layla Fadle
Michael Shaikh, the author of the Last Sweet Stories and Recipes of Culinary Heritage Lost and Found, thank you so much for your time and for this book.
Michael Shaikh
Thank you very much.
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NPR's Book of the Day: Detailed Summary of "The Last Sweet Bite"
Podcast Information:
In this engaging episode of NPR's Book of the Day, host Andrew Limbong introduces Michael Shaikh's The Last Sweet Bite, a unique cookbook that transcends traditional culinary guides. Rather than merely presenting recipes, Shaikh delves into how conflict and violence reshape the culinary landscapes of various regions, highlighting the resilience of people who cling to their food heritage amidst turmoil.
Andrew Limbong [00:02]: "The Last Sweet Bite isn't a straightforward cookbook. There are recipes in it, sure, but it's more about people holding on desperately to the food that makes them feel human."
Michael Shaikh, a seasoned human rights advocate, spent a decade documenting war crimes and human rights abuses across regions like Afghanistan, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Bangladesh, Thailand, Mali, and Syria. His extensive experience on the ground informed his transition from chronicling violence to exploring its impact on culinary traditions.
Layla Fadle [01:20]: "Michael Shaikh chronicled the human cost of war... But beyond the life lost, the structures destroyed, Shaikh watched the way war, occupation and violence stole something else from people, the food they treasured."
Shaikh emphasizes that food serves as a crucial link to humanity, especially in conflict zones. It becomes a means of preserving language, identity, and cultural heritage. Through his interviews and experiences, he observes how war and violence not only disrupt communities but also alter their culinary practices.
Michael Shaikh [03:00]: "Food is more than just calories, but the culture around food was so important to everybody. It was a language in which the elder generations could talk to younger generations. It was identity."
The book profiles six regions deeply affected by conflict. Shaikh chose areas based on his familiarity and previous work, including some regions like Bolivia, where he had limited prior experience but a keen interest in the impact of the drug war on Andean cuisines. He also included the Santa Clara Pueblo nation in New Mexico to examine the enduring legacy of colonialism and American violence on indigenous culinary practices.
Michael Shaikh [04:12]: "As an American, I wanted to turn the lens on my own country and look at the violence that has been perpetrated against people on this land in order to better understand the legacies of colonialism."
One of the most challenging chapters for Shaikh was exploring how centuries-old colonial policies continue to influence and undermine indigenous cuisines. Despite these adversities, communities demonstrate remarkable resilience, working to revive and sustain their culinary traditions.
Michael Shaikh [05:13]: "People are still finding ways to survive and persist, and they've done amazing things to rebuild and relearn and rejuvenate an entire cuisine that had been intentionally destroyed."
In his chapter on the Czech Republic, Shaikh examines how Communist regimes attempted to suppress and control culinary expression. He reflects on insights from Czech celebrity chef Roman Vanyich, who likens menus to mirrors reflecting the public mood and societal values.
Michael Shaikh [06:15]: "Menus are mirrors of the public mood... by looking at the ingredients, you could really see who was in charge. You could see whose politics were on the table at that time."
Shaikh highlights specific recipes that symbolize cultural resilience. One such example is the Rohingya garam masala, which blends South and Southeast Asian flavors with unconventional ingredients, representing the blending and preservation of cultural identities despite displacement and hardship.
Michael Shaikh [07:07]: "The Rohingya garam masala... it's just a spectacular garam masala. It uses ingredients that you normally wouldn't see."
Shaikh conveys a profound message about the importance of recognizing and supporting humanitarian efforts. His book serves as both a documentation of loss and a celebration of human persistence. He presents the narratives as David versus Goliath tales intertwined with love stories, emphasizing the enduring spirit of communities facing immense challenges.
Michael Shaikh [07:31]: "It's this, like, David and Goliath story, but also a love story at the same time."
The Last Sweet Bite offers readers a compelling exploration of how food serves as a cornerstone of cultural identity amid conflict. Michael Shaikh's work not only provides delicious recipes but also tells the poignant stories of resilience and survival, making it a vital read for those interested in the intersection of cuisine and human rights.
Layla Fadle [08:06]: "What I think this book speaks to are the consequences of what happens when these policies and these politics go unchecked. People persist and they survive and try their best, but at the same time, they're up against all odds."
Notable Quotes:
This summary encapsulates the key discussions, insights, and conclusions from the NPR podcast episode on Michael Shaikh's The Last Sweet Bite, providing a comprehensive overview for those who haven't listened to the episode.