Transcript
Emily Gracie (0:01)
Perfect. Blue skies, warm sand between your toes, the rhythmic sound of waves inviting you into the crystal clear water. Spring break at its finest. But in just moments, paradise becomes peril. Each stroke toward shore somehow pushes you further out. The beach is getting smaller, voices fading. In a panic, you attempt to swim towards shore, but it's exhausting. In that moment, you realize survival is not guaranteed. This is a rip current, and it's just one of many hazards facing beachgoers today. We're going off the radar and diving deep into the invisible dangers that lurk just beyond the shoreline.
Bruckner Chase (0:51)
If we do not really know how to understand what's going on out there, the decisions we make may make a situation more dangerous.
Emily Gracie (1:01)
I'm meteorologist Emily Gracie, and you're listening to off the Radar, a production of the National Weather Desk. On the show, we dig deep into topics about weather, climate, the ocean, space, and much more. Our goal is to help you better understand the weather and to love it as much as we do.
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Emily Gracie (2:22)
Beachgoers head to the coast, excited for the surf and the sun. But beneath those beautiful blue waves lies potential killers that most people don't understand. Rip currents. These powerful, narrow channels of water can drag even strong swimmers out to sea in minutes. Greg Dusek is a senior scientist with NOAA's National Ocean Service.
Greg Dusek (2:44)
Rip currents are caused by waves, so anywhere you have breaking waves, you can have rip currents. So that means you know, along all your ocean coastlines, of course, but then also in the Great Lakes, which a lot of people don't think about, and they're caused by the variability in how waves are breaking along shore. And so the typical way that that might happen is when you have a sandbar near the beach, right? I'm sure people have gone to the beach, know that, you know, you can kind of go out a little bit. You see kind of a shallower area where the sand builds up. That sandbar changes how waves are breaking. And so if you sit there and watch at the beach for a while, you'll notice that waves tend to break more over the bar. And that's because the water's shallower. There's. Whereas what you will often have is you have a bar, and then you might have a channel in it. So a deeper spot in the bar, and where you have that channel, it's deeper. And so then waves aren't breaking. And what ends up happening is where you have waves breaking, you have something shoreward of where the waves break, so they break, and then shoreward of that, the water level rises. And if you've been at the beach, you notice this because you'll see when a wave breaks, then the water kind of pushes upshore. And if you do that over a few different breaking waves, you end up with higher water levels where waves are breaking more. And then in those channel areas where it's deeper and the waves really aren't breaking as much, the water level is lower. And so, as everyone knows, right, water wants to flow downhill. So it tends to flow from those areas of high breaking waves to low and then offshore and forming a rip current. And that's kind of one of the more common ones caused by the shape of the bottom. But you can cause similar changes in breaking waves by structures. So they often occur near jetties or piers, sometimes even when you have just waves. And it could be a flat bottom, but, you know, waves might come from different angles, say one from the south, one out of the north, and then they kind of intersect near shore. And that can set up those same kind of variations and breaking waves that you get from, like, bathymetry or the shape of the bottom. But those we call transient rips because they can come and go. They can be there for a few minutes or even a few seconds and then go away. And they can move alongshore. And so those can be especially dangerous. But in the end, it's all about breaking waves.
