Ologies with Alie Ward: Field Trip - A Hawaiian Breadfruit Rev‘ULUtion

Episode Release Date: November 25, 2024
Host: Alie Ward

1. Introduction and Background

In this engaging episode of Ologies with Alie Ward, Alie embarks on a field trip to Hawaii to explore the resurgence of breadfruit, a traditional staple deeply rooted in native Hawaiian culture. The episode delves into the historical significance, agricultural practices, health benefits, and modern challenges associated with breadfruit cultivation and reintroduction.

2. The History of Breadfruit

Alie provides a comprehensive primer on breadfruit, highlighting its origins and historical journey to Hawaii. Breadfruit, scientifically known as Artocarpus altilis, is part of the fig family and closely related to jackfruit. Originating from Papua New Guinea, it was brought to Hawaii nearly a thousand years ago by Polynesian settlers who introduced it alongside other foods like coconuts, sugar cane, and taro root.

Alie Ward [06:04]: “Breadfruit is in the fig family, and it's closely related to jackfruit. Most of the cultivated breadfruits descend from the species known as breadnut, which is native to the Papua New Guinea area.”

European explorers, impressed by its ease of cultivation and versatile use, considered breadfruit an excellent staple, even attempting to transport it for use in tropical colonies, as illustrated by the infamous Mutiny on the Bounty incident.

3. Modern Revival Efforts

The episode introduces two key figures in the breadfruit revival:

• Dr. Noah Kekueva Lincoln: An ethnobotanist and professor at the University of Hawaii at Manoa, specializing in indigenous crops and cropping systems.
• Dolly Altafuna: A research assistant and soil scientist pursuing her PhD, focusing on soil fertility and breadfruit agriculture.

Alie recounts her encounter with Noah at a symposium, where his passion for breadfruit sparked her curiosity, leading to a collaborative field trip.

Noah Kekueva Lincoln [13:25]: “My academic training has been in ecology and soil science. But, you know, as a child, I was very strongly engaged in our traditional plants, our crops... That is what people go off to school for, to learn to become an ethnobotanist.”

Together, they aim to restore breadfruit as a sustainable and culturally significant food source in Hawaii, addressing the current dependency on imported foods, which comprises 85% of the Hawaiian diet.

4. Health and Cultural Significance

Breadfruit plays a crucial role in combating diet-related diseases prevalent among Pacific Islanders, such as type 2 diabetes and hypertension. Its low glycemic index makes it an excellent staple for maintaining stable blood sugar levels.

Noah Kekueva Lincoln [19:48]: “Breadfruit has a strong human health component to it... It’s a relatively low glycemic index, meaning that when you eat it, you're full for a while, you don't burn right through it.”

Reintroducing breadfruit aligns with efforts to preserve native Hawaiian culture and promote food security by reducing reliance on imported, often less sustainable, food sources.

5. Challenges in Reintroducing Breadfruit

One of the significant hurdles in reviving breadfruit consumption is overcoming the lack of familiarity and knowledge about its preparation. Many Hawaiians consume breadfruit infrequently, primarily sourced from personal trees rather than supermarkets.

Noah Kekueva Lincoln [14:45]: “We were passionate about breadfruit because we knew about it. And that's one of the big barriers. People don't know about it.”

Educational campaigns and community engagement are pivotal in increasing breadfruit’s presence in the local food system. Platforms like eatbreadfruit.com are instrumental in providing resources, recipes, and stories to educate the public.

6. Visit to the Breadfruit Farm

Alie, accompanied by Noah and Dolly, visits a breadfruit farm on the Big Island, operated by Dolly Altafuna. The farm showcases various breadfruit cultivars, each with unique characteristics and uses.

Key Highlights:

• Varieties of Breadfruit:

  • Hawaiian Variety: Larger, smoother when mature, ideal for roasting.
  • Ancestry Variety: Older cultivar with more seeds, mainly used for propagation.
  • Mafala Variety: Smaller with yellow flesh, perfect for making breadfruit chips.

• Cultivation Practices:

  • Breadfruit trees require ample space, consistent watering, and nutrient-rich soil.
  • Trees are pruned to maintain manageable heights (~12 feet) for easy harvesting and to reduce disease risk.
  • Harvest season spans from June to February, ensuring year-round availability.

Noah Kekueva Lincoln [07:18]: “It was a very challenging and deliberate switch that took a lot of years.”

During the farm tour, Dolly demonstrates the practical aspects of breadfruit cultivation, such as pruning techniques and harvesting methods. The team also engages in hands-on activity, picking ripe breadfruits, emphasizing the physical effort involved in sustainable farming.

7. Recipes and Uses

Noah shares creative ways to incorporate breadfruit into everyday meals, making it more appealing to those unfamiliar with the fruit.

• Twice Cooked Patties: Steamed, mashed with onions, seasoning, formed into patties, and pan-fried.
• Breadfruit Chocolate Mousse: Blended ripe breadfruit with local honey, coconut milk, and cacao, then frozen into a vegan, delicious dessert.

Noah Kekueva Lincoln [18:34]: “Our favorite product we actually have out is a breadfruit chocolate mousse. It’s a mousse, but it’s vegan, 100% local and 95% breadfruit. But you would never know that when you stick it in your mouth, it’s delicious.”

Alie shares her personal experience trying the breadfruit mousse, describing its delightful texture and nutty flavor, further illustrating the fruit’s versatility.

8. Conclusion and Future Directions

The episode concludes with reflections on the success of the field trip and the ongoing efforts to expand breadfruit cultivation across Hawaii. The team emphasizes the importance of community involvement, sustainable farming practices, and continuous education to ensure the breadfruit revolution thrives.

Dolly Altafuna [36:25]: “As long as they're in a nice, cool environment and with space... they'll be happy. They'll be happy.”

Alie expresses her gratitude to the researchers and the local community for their dedication and invites listeners to support the movement by visiting eatbreadfruit.com and contributing to related causes.

Notable Quotes with Timestamps

• Noah Kekueva Lincoln [07:04]: “We grew up on rice and transitioning to, you know, particularly our indigenous starches, of which breadfruit's one. It was a very challenging and deliberate switch that took a lot of years.”
• Alie Ward [10:03]: “Using an empirically validated suitability model calibrated in Hawaii, which warns that if we want to figure out how to grow food that can withstand future climate change, we gotta figure it out now to get ahead of it.”
• Noah Kekueva Lincoln [14:45]: “People don't know about it. And to get people excited about it, to get them to engage in it, to use it, to bring it back into the food system, we knew was gonna be a big educational push.”
• Alie Ward [20:32]: “Plain white bread is up there at 90 out of 100. White rice is 70, boiled potatoes are high at 70. But breadfruit is low to medium at 47, up to 70.”

Additional Resources

• Eat Breadfruit: eatbreadfruit.com – Comprehensive resource for recipes, farmer stories, and purchasing options.
• Chef Hui Fund: Supporting the connection between culinary professionals and local communities for a robust food system.
• Further Reading:
  • Thinking like an Navigating a Sustainable Future in Hawaii – Explores the impact of colonization on Hawaii’s food systems.
  • Trends in Food Science and Technology – 2020 study on breadfruit cultivation under climate change scenarios.
  • Journal of the American Dietetic Association – 2009 paper on diet and health in the Pacific Islands.

Behind the Scenes

The episode features meticulous research and collaboration among various professionals, including:

• Aileen Malik: Professional transcript creator.
• Kelly R. Dwyer: Website management.
• Noelle Dilworth: Scheduling producer.
• Jake Chaffee: Editor and producer researcher.
• Mercedes Maitland: Additional writing support from Maitland Audio.

Alie also recounts a humorous encounter with friendly Australian sheepdogs at the breadfruit farm, adding a light-hearted touch to the informative episode.

Alie Ward [41:31]: “This is one of the best parts, because every time you go visit a farmer, you know, talk to them, share with them, you leave with like, big baskets of fresh mangoes and lychee and, yeah, all sorts of goodies.”

Thank you for joining Alie Ward on this insightful field trip into the heart of Hawaii’s breadfruit revolution. To support the movement and learn more, visit eatbreadfruit.com and contribute to building a sustainable and culturally rich food future.