Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry

Episode 50: Our Favorite Watches – Geneva Watch Days 2025
Date: September 8, 2025
Hosts: Asher Rapkin, Gabe Riley (Collective Horology)
Guest: Jeff Souder (Director of Sales, Collective Horology)

Episode Overview

Recorded live from the Hotel East West during Geneva Watch Days 2025, Asher, Gabe, and special guest Jeff Souder dive into their top highlights from the show. The episode is an energetic, candid roundtable about the most compelling watches they encountered, filled with design insights, industry context, and contagious enthusiasm for independent brands. Each host selects their three standouts, explaining what sets them apart in a field bursting with creative excellence.

Key Discussion Points

1. Setting the Scene & Show Impressions (00:51–02:25)

• Casual Atmosphere vs. Traditional Geneva Shows
  • Jeff: "When I've been here before, it's been very formal... What I found here is that there's a chaotic beauty in the madness of both casual and incredible watchmaking." (02:25)
  • Asher: "Chaotic beauty. It sounds like my life now..." (02:41)
  • The hosts note the value of unbuttoned access to brands and the raw energy of independent watchmaking.

2. Asher’s First Pick: Urwerk UR-150 Blue (03:21–06:48)

• Why Urwerk Stands Out
  • Asher: “They are sculptures, they are highly conceptual and deeply meaningful watches. And then if you take all that away, they're just badass.” (03:45)
• Highlights of the UR-150 Blue
  • Debuted two days ago, evolved from last year's Scorpion model.
  • Improved ergonomics—now more wearable on a range of wrists.
  • “...the 150 blue distills their design language, distills their technology and distills their aesthetic overall into a very clear and very ownable watch." (04:38)
  • Screw-down crown, $118,000 USD.
• Memorable Quote:
  • Asher: "It delivers on absolutely everything I think somebody would ever want from that brand. Absolutely love it. Slam dunk. Chef's kiss." (06:00)

3. Jeff’s First Pick: Carl Suchy Belvedere (06:53–09:09)

• Brand’s Unique Position
  • “They're kind of like 50, 50 technical prowess and beautiful geometric design... they're just super hypnotic.” (06:58)
• Why the Belvedere?
  • Unique floating, two-part date display.
  • A harmonious fusion of technology and design; always something fresh to discover visually.
  • Now part of the Collective Horology lineup.
• Gabe's Reflection:
  • "It manages to do it in a way that feels completely fresh and different... always, like, details to study and uncover. They're Easter eggs in the design." (07:55)
• Memorable Moment: Announcement that Carl Suchy is joining Collective. (09:09)

4. Gabe’s First Pick: De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius (09:10–13:22)

• De Bethune First-Hand
  • Gabe’s first time ever handling a De Bethune in person: "There's just a soul to this object... really enchanting." (10:29)
  • The DB25 with burgundy dial especially captivated him.
• The Hype Paradox
  • Asher: "When a brand is surrounded by that kind of energy, I think sometimes actually clouds one's ability to look at the actual art in the watch." (11:35)
• De Bethune's Legacy
  • Discussion about how independent brands build legacy and identity long before the “hype” sets in.

5. Asher’s Second Pick: Ming Monopusher Chronograph "Iris" (13:53–16:18)

• Unveiling the Iris
  • Asher: “This is... the brand new monopusher chronograph from Ming.”
  • 40mm case, new ergonomic design, next-level dial (unphotographable due to its visual dynamism).
  • “Every detail on it has been thought through... the brand just continues to elbow its way into new territories and find these creative solutions.” (15:08)
• For Collectors
  • “If you’ve ordered one and you've got one on the way, get excited. It's just so cool.” (16:18)

6. Jeff’s Second Pick: Joshua Shapiro [Limited discussion due to embargo] (16:38–17:47)

• Emotional Note
  • Asher: “From an emotional standpoint... really special, because this is one of the few watches that I had the privilege of seeing from drawing all the way through to execution, which was years.” (17:19)
  • Watch under embargo, but anticipation high due to Shapiro’s craftsmanship and story.
  • The hosts reflect on the painstaking, years-long process of independent watchmakers.

7. Gabe’s Second Pick: Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante RUR ("The Robot") (17:49–23:22)

• Highlight Feature
  • Robot face at 12 o'clock with color-changing eyes indicating chronograph function.
  • Custom “robot” numeral system for indices and subdials—aesthetically cohesive and playful.
  • Gabe: “I didn't really get this watch and then I saw it in person, I was like, okay, this really works.”
• Design Evolution
  • Comparison to original Rattrapante: The robot completes the dial’s negative space both functionally and visually.
  • Asher: “...the devil’s in the details. You know, like when you loop the head of the robot and you see how, how absolutely gorgeous it is... you get everything that you want, or at least everything I want from watchmaking, which is good storytelling with exceptional artistic value.” (23:08)
• Development Story
  • Years in development, with the hosts privy to the process from sketches to final release.

8. Asher’s Third Pick: Fears Redcliff 39.5 Endurance Spec (Trinity Collection) (23:26–28:14)

• First Look
  • Asher: “Part of what they're calling the trinity... These are their new generation releases... This watch is called the Endurance spec and it sits inside the Redcliffe 39.5 case.”
• Tool Watch Redefined
  • Gabe: “ES Endurance specification can be applied to any Fears model going forward... it's built to a different and a much more rugged standard.” (25:48)
  • 2000 Vickers hardness (vs. standard steel/titanium), DLC components, next-gen luminescence.
  • Represents a new, more "toolish" level of robustness in Fears’ traditionally refined design language.
• Design Integrity
  • Asher: “One of the best things about both IWC and Fears is that they have incredibly well-defined design languages... And that is exactly what Nicholas did with this watch. This watch pushes FEARS design language without changing it into a new category.” (25:48)

9. Jeff’s Third Pick: Holthinrichs Ornament (28:19–32:58)

• Meeting the Maker
  • Jeff: “I want to set the stage... [after a long day]... they put a case down on the table and they open it up... it’s by Holthinrichs.” (28:31)
  • Describes the initial emotional impact and the rich Art Nouveau design ethos.
• Hand-Crafted Depth
  • “It fit perfectly on the wrist and it looked like a perfect material object that reflect that the philosophies of the guy sitting on the other side of that table. And I absolutely fell in love with the brand in that moment and everything that he made.” (29:10)
• Collective’s Next Addition
  • Immediate agreement to represent Holthinrichs at Collective, a first for the team.
  • Asher: “This is one of those rare things. Watch it. There's no watch that's for everyone... I think we all fell deeply in love.” (35:11)

10. Gabe’s Third Pick: Singer Reimagined Caballero (35:15–42:24)

• Why It's a Big Deal
  • First time-only watch from Singer, launching a new proprietary in-house movement (caliber 4), featuring four barrels for constant force.
  • “It's both a deeply unusual Singer, but also right at home. So this is Singer's really first time only watch... What's most interesting about it... it has their own proprietary movement.” (35:15)
  • New "petrol blue" dial, praised for its unique color.
• Modular Movement, Future-Proof Design
  • Asher: “The proprietary movement is modular... this watch is the first chapter in a whole range of potential options in the future.” (37:58)
  • Nuanced case design, intricate finishing, bracelet and bezel details noticed only in person.
• Singer’s Brand Journey
  • “Singer has been on an absolute heater for the last two years... The brand has broken out of the mold from which, you know, which they began in a serious way.” (40:37)
  • Price Point: Just over $25,000, expanding accessibility without compromise.

Notable Exchange

• Asher: “Another thing that you really have to tip your hat to them for... they've managed to introduce watches at significantly lower prices without watering down the drink.” (42:44)

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• Gabe on De Bethune: "There's just a soul to this object... really enchanting." (10:29)
• Asher on Ming Iris: "Every detail on it has been thought through... it makes me want to giggle. Like, it's just awesome." (15:08)
• Jeff on Holthinrichs: "I was deeply into the gravity well of this brand brand." (28:53)
• Asher on Storytelling: "You get everything that you want, or at least everything I want from watchmaking, which is good storytelling with exceptional artistic value." (23:08)
• Gabe on Singer’s Growth: "Singer has been on an absolute heater for the last two years... The brand has broken out of the mold from which, you know, which they began." (40:37)
• Running Joke: Asher and Gabe repeatedly riff on “years, but years, but years” regarding multi-year relationships and projects (multiple locations, such as 17:37, 39:05, 39:16).
• Asher's Car Analogy: “Or you end up with the unfortunate alternative solution, which is like a baby Benz... they've managed to introduce watches at significantly lower prices without watering down the drink.” (42:36–42:44)

Important Timestamps

• 00:51 Introduction of Jeff and Geneva Watch Days impressions
• 03:21 Asher – Urwerk UR-150 Blue
• 06:53 Jeff – Carl Suchy Belvedere
• 09:10 Gabe – De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius (burgundy dial)
• 13:53 Asher – Ming Monopusher Chronograph “Iris”
• 16:38 Jeff – Joshua Shapiro (under embargo)
• 17:49 Gabe – Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante RUR (“the robot”)
• 23:26 Asher – Fears Endurance Spec (Trinity Collection)
• 28:19 Jeff – Holthinrichs Ornament
• 35:15 Gabe – Singer Reimagined Caballero

Concluding Takeaways (43:08–44:10)

• Theme: Creativity and strong design identity define the best of Geneva Watch Days 2025.
• Gabe: “The highlight of this show are defined by not just being creative, but having a very clear and distinctive point of view.” (43:08)
• A Reminder: "It’s about the watches. People come and go." (44:10)