Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry

Special Episode: The Unsung Watches of Watches and Wonders 2025

Hosts: Asher Rapkin & Gabe Reilly (Collective Horology)
Date: April 7, 2025
Episode: 37

Episode Overview

This special bonus episode takes a rare turn for the Openwork podcast: instead of discussing business inside the watch industry, hosts Asher and Gabe highlight their favorite "unsung" watches from Watches and Wonders 2025 in Geneva. With most media attention going to big launches from Rolex, Tudor, and Patek Philippe, Asher and Gabe instead champion unique watches that may have flown under the radar, including both pieces from brands they retail and others they simply admire. The pair walk through their personal top five "unsung watches" (and a surprise object!) from the week—providing hands-on impressions, backstories, and industry insight.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

Main Theme

• Spotlighting the Overlooked: The episode is dedicated to celebrating lesser-covered, conceptually strong watches (or horological objects) discovered at Watches and Wonders and surrounding shows in Geneva, showcasing both emerging and established creators.

1. Garrick S3 Deadbeat (02:06 – 06:33)

• Brand: Garrick (retailer relationship disclosed)
• Why It Stands Out: Exemplifies the incremental evolution and craftsmanship of English watchmaking. The S3 Deadbeat represents a “quantum leap” in finish, detail, and creative unity.
• Movement & Architecture: Fully open-worked, "no dial," every component exposed and meticulously finished.
• Industry Shift: Discussion of the difficult strategic decision to move away from lower-priced models (S4, S6) to focus on in-house, higher-end pieces.
• Notable Quote:

  "It's legitimate English watchmaking without any sort of pretense." – Asher (04:23)

2. Chopard L.U.C Quattro Platinum Ice Blue (06:35 – 11:22)

• Brand: Chopard LUC (no retailer relationship)
• What Makes It Special: Platinum case, ice blue textured dial, exquisitely finished in-house movement, Geneva Seal, limited production.
• Versatility: Straddles formal and casual; “not just a dress watch.”
• Value Point: At ~CHF 40,000 mid-40k for Geneva Seal platinum, it's positioned as an alternative to Patek or Vacheron at a strong value proposition.
• Notable Quote:

  "It's just a symphony of subtlety. It's just dead sexy." – Asher (07:48) "There's a genuine care and passion for watchmaking there that I don't know exists at companies of that size." – Gabe (10:52)

3. Andreas Strehler Papillon (11:22 – 14:57)

• Brand: Andreas Strehler
• Reputation: “A watchmaker to the stars”—builds both for his own brand and as a supplier to others. Production under 15 watches/year.
• Watch: The Papillon – open-worked bridges shaped as a butterfly; combines technical prowess with lyrical, architectural design.
• Perspective on Price: Expensive (CHF 120k+), but justified by the extremely limited production and manufacturing challenges.
• Notable Quote:

  "This is a watch where this is probably the least he can charge for the amount of overhead and technical innovation that was required to make it." – Asher (14:17)

4. Urwerk UR-102 Reloaded "T-Rex" (15:00 – 18:27)

• Brand: Urwerk
• Connection: Asher describes visiting Urwerk's “coolest office” and the playful watchmaking approach of Martin Frei.
• Model: UR-102 Reloaded "T-Rex"—a bronze, scale-textured finish revival of the original UR-102, including a unique, tactile crown system (slider switch on caseback to pop the crown).
• Impression: Celebrates 30 years of creative evolution distilled into a wearable, fun, distinctly Urwerk piece at ~ $40,000.
• Notable Quote:

  "You have this really fun, tactile experience in doing something as simple as setting the watch. And...that's not the point because that's not the way that Martin expresses himself through design." – Asher (16:31)

5. Singer Reimagined Heritage Chrono (18:29 – 21:32)

• Brand: Singer Reimagined (retailer relationship)
• Concept: A more “traditional” two-register chrono powered by new-old-stock Valjoux 236 calibers, each completely restored and refinished in-house (from raw brass to rhodium-plated, hand-finished).
• Design: 38.8 mm case, clear Singer design language, striking blend of classic and contemporary.
• Price: Just under $20,000.
• Notable Quote:

  "They've done to this legendary chronograph movement what Singer does to Porsche cars." – Gabe (20:00)

6. Breva Dual Power Reserve (21:36 – 22:52)

• Brand: Breva
• Discovery: Found at the "Time to Watches" fair.
• Complication: Dual power reserves—one for total reserve (7 days), a second for final 24 hours.
• Aesthetic: Unusual complication coupled with a classical, elegant visual delivery. Early debut—impresses with creativity.
• Notable Quote:

  "Super esoteric, you know, bizarre complication. But the aesthetic of the watch was absolutely beautiful." – Asher (22:22)

7. Armin Strom One Week Skeleton (23:03 – 25:42)

• Brand: Armin Strom
• Model: One Week Skeleton—an evolution of their core time-only sports watch, now fully open-worked with technical, architectural finishing.
• Industry Context: Armin Strom as "technical to the bone" versus the “lyrical” nature of others like Strehler.
• Execution: Praised as a “complete thought” watch—where every design, technical, and finishing choice serves a holistic vision.
• Notable Quote:

  "To me, this is the version of that watch that does [the 'complete thought'].” – Gabe (25:42)

8. Ressence Type 7 (25:48 – 29:48)

• Brand: Ressence
• Model: Type 7—dual time, integrated bracelet, and a wholly new design for the brand.
• Design Philosophy: Unapologetically original; deliberately polarizing, not referencing any other brand. Bravery to exist outside conventional watchmaking standards.
• Industry Insight: Discusses how most brands find comfort in mimicking others, while Ressence is “in the industry, but apart from it.”
• Notable Quote:

  "When you put a watch in front of somebody...my first reaction is like, this is awesome. And I could totally see how somebody might not feel that way. But that level of polarization...is an indicator of strong design and intentional choices." – Asher (27:02)

9. Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 SL ‘Cadence High Frequency’ (30:20 – 32:26)

• Brand: Chopard
• Model: Alpine Eagle 41 SL (Ceramicized Titanium, high-frequency movement)
• Highlights: Modern tactical aesthetic, ceramicized titanium, orange accents; high beat movement—representing the “uber version” of an already well-loved model.
• Hosts’ Verdict: “Cool chef’s watch”—a favorite of Gabe’s (and Asher’s).
• Notable Quote:

  "It meets my highest standard of praise...This is a watch that a really cool chef would wear." – Gabe (31:56)

10. Anton Sukhanov’s Kinetic Time Sculpture ("The Egg") (32:33 – 35:01)

• Artist: Anton Sukhanov
• Presentation: A large, enamelled (possibly lacquered) egg sculpture with a 24-second tourbillon on top. Not a wristwatch, but a kinetic horological art object.
• Context: Shown at the AHCI, emphasizing Geneva as a birthplace for wild, unconventional horological creativity.
• Significance: Represents cross-media creativity—Sukhanov as a mechanical artist beyond watchmaking.
• Notable Quote:

  "I've never seen anything like this. It is a piece of kinetic time sculpture." – Asher (00:00, and again at 32:36)

Notable Quotes – Speaker Attribution & Timestamps

• "It's legitimate English watchmaking without any sort of pretense." – Asher (04:23)
• "It's just a symphony of subtlety. It's just dead sexy." – Asher (07:48)
• "There's a genuine care and passion for watchmaking there that I don't know exists at companies of that size." – Gabe (10:52)
• "This is a watch where this is probably the least he can charge for the amount of overhead and technical innovation that was required to make it." – Asher (14:17)
• "You have this really fun, tactile experience in doing something as simple as setting the watch...that's not the way that Martin expresses himself through design." – Asher (16:31)
• "They've done to this legendary chronograph movement what Singer does to Porsche cars." – Gabe (20:00)
• "Super esoteric, you know, bizarre complication. But the aesthetic of the watch was absolutely beautiful." – Asher (22:22)
• "To me, this is the version of that watch that does [the 'complete thought']." – Gabe (25:42)
• "That level of polarization...is an indicator of strong design and intentional choices." – Asher (27:02)
• "It meets my highest standard of praise...This is a watch that a really cool chef would wear." – Gabe (31:56)
• "I've never seen anything like this. It is a piece of kinetic time sculpture." – Asher (00:00, 32:36)

Segment Timestamps

| Segment | Timestamps | |-------------------------------------------|-------------------| | Episode Theme/Intro | 00:00 – 02:06 | | Garrick S3 Deadbeat | 02:06 – 06:33 | | Chopard L.U.C Quattro Platinum | 06:35 – 11:22 | | Andreas Strehler Papillon | 11:22 – 14:57 | | Urwerk UR-102 Reloaded "T-Rex" | 15:00 – 18:27 | | Singer Reimagined Heritage Chrono | 18:29 – 21:32 | | Breva Dual Power Reserve | 21:36 – 22:52 | | Armin Strom One Week Skeleton | 23:03 – 25:42 | | Ressence Type 7 | 25:48 – 29:48 | | Alpine Eagle 41 SL | 30:20 – 32:26 | | Anton Sukhanov "The Egg" (Time Sculpture) | 32:33 – 35:01 |

Memorable Moments

• Interactivity at Urwerk (16:31): Asher's delight at discovering a hidden “set crown” switch on the UR-102, exemplifying the idiosyncratic design language of Martin Frei.
• Restoration at Singer (20:10): The awe at seeing raw Valjoux 236 movements transformed into modern, hand-finished treasures by Singer, drawing analogy to the company's work with vintage Porsches.
• Creativity at AHCI (32:36): Asher's encounter with Anton Sukhanov's tourbillon egg, expanding the definition of horology to include kinetic sculptures, not just watches.

Closing Sentiment

The episode channels a sense of joy, respect, and curiosity—a celebration of what makes watchmaking so dynamic. Gabe and Asher encourage listeners to be open to the unusual and the sincerely executed, whether it’s a $20k English deadbeat or a $100k butterfly bridge, and to appreciate the artistry and bravery it takes to chart one’s own path in the watch world.

For More

Hosts will publish photos and links to all discussed pieces on the Collective Horology blog.

Feedback is welcome at podcast@collectivehorology.com.