Ridiculous History: Classic Episode Summary – The Curious Rise of SPAM
Release Date: June 21, 2025
Hosts: Ben Bowlin and Noel Brown
Guest: Annie Reese, Co-Host and Co-Creator of Savor
Introduction to SPAM's Ubiquity
In this classic episode of Ridiculous History, hosts Ben Bowlin and Noel Brown delve into the fascinating and often overlooked history of SPAM, the iconic canned meat product. Joined by Annie Reese, a renowned food historian from their personal lives and the co-host of the food podcast Savor, the trio explores how SPAM transcended its initial purpose to become a global phenomenon, particularly beloved in Hawaii and Korea.
Ben Bowlin kicks off the discussion by expressing his fondness for SPAM musubi, highlighting its popularity in Hawaiian cuisine:
"[00:07] Noel: ...I did recently have a spam musubi, which is like a little Hawaiian kind of spam sushi roll situation."
Origins of SPAM
SPAM was introduced in 1937 by Hormel Foods in Austin, Minnesota. Initially marketed as a convenient solution for busy homemakers, SPAM was fashioned from surplus pork shoulder—an otherwise less desirable cut of meat. This strategic move not only provided a shelf-stable meat option but also maximized the use of Hormel's byproducts.
Annie Reese elaborates on the branding genius behind SPAM:
"[09:12] Noel: Well, first of all, it's good branding, right? It's fun to say the spa sound is one of my favorite sounds and then add the AM and it's just a delight to say out loud."
SPAM During World War II
The onset of World War II significantly boosted SPAM's prominence. With fresh meat scarce, especially in the Pacific theaters, SPAM became a staple in soldiers' rations. The U.S. government saw SPAM as an ideal option due to its non-perishable nature and ease of transport.
Annie Reese reflects on the soldiers' relationship with SPAM:
"[15:24] Noel: Wasn't it just kind of like leftover meat parts that they had that they shipped to Hormel and then they made them my Spam like stuff?"
However, the extensive consumption led to a backlash among soldiers, some of whom expressed their distaste through humorous yet critical letters:
"[16:08] Annie Reese: ...some of my favorite disses are, 'meatloaf without basic training, ham that didn't pass its physical.'"
Cultural Impact and Global Adoption
Post-war, SPAM found a second home in Hawaii and later in Korea. In Hawaii, SPAM was incorporated into local recipes, transforming it into beloved dishes like SPAM fried rice and SPAM musubi. This culinary integration made SPAM a cultural staple, with Hawaiians consuming approximately 5 million pounds annually.
Annie Reese provides insights into SPAM's cultural assimilation:
"[25:44] Annie Reese: ...they were putting it in things that we make anyway. They were adding them into Spam fried rice or Spam and eggs."
In Korea, SPAM became part of foreign aid packages during the Korean War, further cementing its status. It's noteworthy that Korea remains SPAM's second-largest market, with traditions like gifting SPAM during Lunar New Year.
Modern Consumption Trends and SPAM's Evolution
Today, SPAM continues to evolve with various flavor options tailored to different regional tastes. In Hawaii, SPAM is so ingrained in the culture that festivals like the Spam Jam Festival in Waikiki celebrate its enduring legacy through contests and themed events.
Ben Bowlin shares a personal anecdote reflecting on SPAM's place in modern times:
"[25:30] Ben: I will make a mean Spam fried rice if you ever want to come over."
Moreover, SPAM's manufacturing process remains largely unchanged, emphasizing its unique texture and shelf stability, which contribute to its lasting appeal.
Pop Culture and Linguistic Influence
The term "spam" extended beyond the product, especially after the famous Monty Python sketch, where "Spam" became synonymous with an overwhelming and unsolicited deluge—mirroring the clamor SPAM caused among soldiers.
Noel Brown humorously connects the linguistic shift:
"[37:22] Noel: It was the idea of just inundating you with something... like annoying."
Despite Hormel's attempts to distance the product from its negative connotations, the term "spam" has firmly entrenched itself in popular vernacular, often used to describe unwanted emails and messages.
Challenges and Market Dynamics
In recent years, Hawaii has faced unique challenges related to SPAM. The high demand has led to instances of SPAM theft, creating a black market where stolen cans are sold illicitly. This surge in demand highlights SPAM's continued relevance and the lengths to which consumers will go to obtain it.
Annie Reese discusses the rise in SPAM-related crimes:
"[47:14] ...some stores have started storing their cans of Spam locked in those plastic cases that are typically used for expensive items."
Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy of SPAM
SPAM's journey from a surplus meat product to a beloved cultural icon is a testament to strategic branding, adaptability, and cultural integration. Whether enjoyed in a musubi in Hawaii, incorporated into Korean dishes, or featured in high-end restaurants, SPAM remains a unique and enduring element of global cuisine.
Ben Bowlin wraps up with a light-hearted reflection:
"[53:37] Ben: I'm wondering if I'm gonna cook some this week. And we've talked so much about it. I feel like we've almost, in a way, consumed it ourselves just by exploring this concept."
Notable Quotes:
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Annie Reese [09:12]: "It's meant to be an acronym, but the origin of what this acronym actually might be is a little bit lost to history or it's kind of a little murky."
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Noel Brown [16:08]: "Some of my favorite disses are, 'meatloaf without basic training, ham that didn't pass its physical.'"
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Annie Reese [25:44]: "They were putting it in things that we make anyway. They were adding them into Spam fried rice or Spam and eggs."
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Ben Bowlin [37:22]: "It's like our true north. It's the true north of canned animal matter."
Additional Resources:
For those interested in exploring more about SPAM's history and cultural impact, visiting the SPAM Museum in Austin, Minnesota is highly recommended. The museum offers hands-on exhibits, including interactive SPAM-canning simulations and a collection of vintage advertisements that showcase SPAM's evolution over the decades.
This summary captures the essence of the podcast episode "The Curious Rise of SPAM," highlighting its historical significance, cultural integration, and lasting impact on global food landscapes.
