Scottish Watches Podcast #683: Garnets, Goblins and Gobshites – Rikki and Rob Talk Arcanaut Watches

Date: June 16, 2025
Hosts: Rikki (A) and Rob Nutt (B), Head of Brand Development for Arcanaut Watches
Special Focus: Deep dive into Arcanaut Watches – history, unique materials, latest releases, behind-the-scenes, and armfuls of watch nerdery.

Episode Overview

This episode brings back Rob Nutt, head of brand development (and literal watchmaker) at independent Danish brand Arcanaut, for an in-depth conversation with host Rikki. The discussion covers Arcanaut’s fascinating origin story, how the brand crafts unique watches from unusual materials like Fordite and garnet, the challenges of being a small independent, and the latest limited editions—including inside scoops on upcoming models. Throughout, listeners get not just technical breakdowns but also a peek into the irreverent humor and obsessive passion fueling the brand.

Key Discussion Points and Insights

1. Rob Nutt’s Return and Arcanaut: An Introduction

• Personal Connection: Rikki thanks Rob for dropping off his new Arcanaut watch in Geneva and sets the stage for a conversation exploring why Arcanaut is so fascinating.
• Arcanaut’s Uniqueness: Every watch is a unique piece, especially with their signature materials.

"These Arcanaut timepieces are something to behold. And when you find out the price point these come in, and each of these are unique pieces, you will be absolutely astounded, flabbergasted, and your breath will be taken away." – Rikki [01:10]

2. Arcanaut: Brand History and Origins

• 10-Year Anniversary: Founded in 2015 by Anders Brandt and Simon Goldman in Copenhagen—originally as a creative watchmaking project rather than a typical company.
• The ‘Crash Landed Spaceship’ Case: Inspired by a dream, leading to the now-iconic case design.
• James Thompson “Black Badger”: Loom specialist and materials wizard, brings innovative materials like ‘Dark Matter’ to the brand.

"It was started in 2015 by Anders Brandt and Simon Goldman. ... Anders ... had a dream one night about this watch case that looked like a spaceship that just crash landed on Earth." – Rob [03:13]

• Progression from conventional dials to experimental materials.

3. Signature Materials: Fordite and Dark Matter

• Fordite Explained: A multi-colored "stone" formed from layers of automotive paint waste in Detroit, later cut and shaped into one-of-a-kind dials.
• Dark Matter: Slate powder from a local fountain, mixed with resin to form solid dials.

"Working with a material like Fordite, which is its own animal ... we have been busy." – Rob [01:44]

• Importance of R&D and manual craftsmanship for each dial; high QC failures given the unpredictability of materials.

4. Pricing and Value Discussion

• Affordable Uniqueness: Watches start circa €3,595 + VAT, remarkable for the level of handmade detail and creativity.

"You're getting Swiss made internals. You're getting a unique dial... The fit and the finish ... it's impeccable." – Rikki [08:51]

• Material Mastery Equals Cost: Much of the pricing is driven by the time and failures involved in mastering unusual materials, NOT by the movement alone.

5. Wearing Experience and Design Details

• Beyond the Instagram Render: Watches "transform" in person, with strikingly complex cases, unique crowns, sculpted rubber straps, and detailed hardware.

"Unless you actually take it from the person that's wearing it... there is so much hidden." – Rikki [07:49]

• Strap Integration Challenges: Achieving a seamless look and comfort means intricate strap design and is why a metal bracelet is so challenging.
• Sizing Considerations: The main case is 40.52mm, but lug-to-lug can wear larger due to strap integration—smaller 37mm case in the works.

6. Expanding Presence & Community

• Retail Partnerships: Growing global network—Chronoshop in Prague, Ace Jewellers in Amsterdam, and Collective Horology in California.
• Supporting Friends: Special limited editions for key partners—essential for exposure since Arcanaut’s style is best appreciated in person.

7. The Garnet Goblin: Experimental Masterpiece for Chronoshop Prague

• Material: Dial made of Czech garnet chips (0.8mm), tumbled and artistically laid in resin, then polished and backed with gold.
• Details: Gold-plated chapter rings and unique case back featuring a “Diablo” goblin motif that glows—perfect for Czechia’s gem traditions.
• Limited to 66 pieces; €4,450 ex. VAT.

"You see all these garnets just like her lying on the field around her because it's a surface mine. And so she realizes that, you know, sometimes finding your place just takes a little bit of relocation. And that's... our story..." – Rob [35:45]

• Case Back & Story: Playful fake fairy tale (the ‘Garnet Goblin’) adds to the lore. Many mistakenly believed it to be real!

"Loads of Czech guys were contacting us going, I've never heard of this story before in my life, but I like it. I'm gonna tell my child." – Rob [36:47]

8. Chronomara: Irish Limited Edition (Secret Drop!)

• Material: Connemara marble (from Ireland’s west coast), crushed and set in resin, with glowing elements and gold accents.
• Case Back: Glow-in-the-dark “snake” motif—callback to the legend of St. Patrick banishing snakes from Ireland.
• Ultra-exclusive—prototype only, not yet on sale or even pictured online.

"Honestly, it's probably the best watch that I've had on my wrist for a long, long, long time." – Rob [24:42]

9. Technical Notes & Customer Tips

• Movements: Soprod M100 (Swiss automatic, no manual winding).
  • Some buyers are initially confused since you have to “shake to wake,” not wind by crown—info now highlighted in all communications.
• Design-for-Service: Rob, as a watchmaker, engineers watches so they’re easy to assemble and repair.

10. Future Directions and Open Experimentation

• Upcoming Models: New 37mm cases, the Phantom and Green Fairy (glowing core collection pieces), are imminent.
• Considering Quartz: If warranted by design, a quartz model could follow, perhaps even at a lower price, but only if it enables radical aesthetics or function (e.g., crownless designs).

"Given that our main reason for existing is to create crazy materials and wonderful aesthetics and visuals and not necessarily to break the bank on horological innovation, I think there is maybe a way we could do that in the future." – Rob [31:24]

11. Wit, Satire, and Community

• Press Release Satire: The hosts riff on Grand Seiko’s poetic press material (“Grand Seiko toilet paper... a new quote of a different season every time you wipe your arse.” – Rikki [38:17])
• Storytelling: Deliberate attention to the narrative as part of the sales and enjoyment process—sometimes tongue-in-cheek, always personal.

12. Where (and How) to See Arcanaut in Real Life

• Events:
  • Geneva Watch Days (Rikki will be outside the main tent; reach out by email)
  • Micro Praha (Prague, December)
  • Timeout Event at Little Treasury Jewelers (Maryland, USA)
• Retailers: Ace Jewellers (Amsterdam), Chronoshop (Prague), Collective Horology (California)
• Mailing List: Highly recommended for genuine updates, not spam.

"I heartily recommend you sign up for the mailing list. ... only when good information is ready to be received will it be sent out and it's pertinent. So one to watch..." – Rikki [46:08]

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On In-Person Experience:
  “See unless you actually take it from the person that's wearing it... there is so much hidden. I didn't realize that the crown on this was unique. I didn't realize on the back. The case shape, the way it all comes together is unique...” – Rikki [07:49]

• On Handcrafted Materials:
  “Each dial takes about three or four hours of hand finishing and that's after it's been hand set. So, you know, there's a lot of work that goes into these.” – Rob [18:50]

• On Watchmaker Perspective:
  “If you don't build something with that repair aspect in mind, then... you're a flash Harry just trying to grab someone's cash and disappear into the night. You should do the job like properly...” – Rob [43:36]

• Fake Fairy Tales:
  “Loads of Czech guys were contacting us going, I've never heard of this story before in my life, but I like it. I'm gonna tell my child...” – Rob [36:47]

Important Timestamps

• Introduction and Rikki’s Story: [00:00–02:39]
• Brand History and Fordite Deep Dive: [03:11–07:27]
• Wearing Experience and Details: [07:49–10:16]
• Retailer Expansion and Prague Collaboration Story: [13:31–17:24]
• Garnet Goblin Process and Technical Details: [17:27–21:43]
• Irish Chronomara Release (Exclusive!): [23:50–24:42]
• Quartz Movement Discussion: [29:37–33:26]
• Fake Fairy Tale and Communication Satire: [34:52–39:23]
• Event Plans & Where to See Arcanaut: [39:46–41:45]
• Rob’s Watchmaking Background & Design Philosophy: [42:46–44:15]
• Final Thoughts & Mailing List Recommendation: [46:01–47:00]

How to Engage

• Website: arcanaut.watch
• Instagram: @arcanaut_watch
• Mailing List: Highly recommended for true fans—occasional, info-rich, and never spammy.
• Email Rob: rob@arcanaut.dk
• See In Person: Geneva Watch Days, Micro Praha, Little Treasury Jewelry (Maryland), partner retailers.

Final Notes

Expect a visual feast in the show notes and Instagram – many models and dials truly must be seen to be believed. For independent watch fans, design junkies, and those tired of cookie-cutter luxury, Arcanaut’s “garnets, goblins, and gobshites” offer a wry, creative, and proudly idiosyncratic path through horology.

“We are Porsche, not Audi. ... If you don't build something with that repair aspect in mind, then... you're a flash Harry just trying to grab someone's cash and disappear into the night.” – Rob [43:28 & 43:36]

For direct updates, model availability, and future event news, visit arcanaut.watch and sign up for that legendary newsletter.