Scottish Watches Podcast #737: Chrimbo Chat With Roger W Smith, Ed from Moser, and Ben from Norqain

Overview

In this festive bumper episode of Scottish Watches, the hosts bring listeners a special set of interviews recorded at Dubai Watch Week 2025. The episode features candid conversations with Eduard (Ed) Meylan of H. Moser & Cie., Ben Küffer of Norqain, and master watchmaker Roger W. Smith. Each guest discusses their latest watch releases, the philosophies driving their brands, and provides insights into the watch industry. The episode captures the camaraderie of Dubai Watch Week and the unique perspectives of three industry leaders.

Eduard Meylan (Ed) – H. Moser & Cie.

(00:39–16:50)

Key Discussion Points:

New Streamliner Perpetual Moon Launch

• First automatic Perpetual Moon in a Streamliner case
• Rose gold meteorite dial; meteorite sourced from Namibia with a unique warm gold treatment for aesthetic harmony (02:07)
• Precision: one day deviation in 1027 years (01:22)
• Homogeneous visual effect despite non-homogeneous meteorite crystal structure
• No visible logo on the dial—minimalism and brand recognition (04:01)

On Design Process and Brand Philosophy

• The Streamliner is now so distinctive that it needs no logo (04:15)
• Some releases are limited and timeless, while others are experimental
  • “This is typically a watch where I feel like we're not going to make many, but we might make them for a long time.” (04:46)
• Planned production: 50–100 pieces per year (05:03)

Collaborations and F1 Sponsorship

• Behind-the-scenes on F1 driver Pierre Gasly collaboration:
  • Gasly wanted “chocolate” colors, a brown fume dial, rose gold, and a tourbillon
  • Highly involved in the design (05:57)
  • “He knew exactly what he wanted and he was extremely precise.” (05:57)
• Building authentic relationships with ambassadors akin to client relationships:
  • “Clients, our ambassadors, with Pierre it’s exactly the same. He’s super proud to show the watch.” (09:47)
  • Not just transactional; about building trust and shared excitement
• Reflections on entering F1, and why partnering with Alpine (underdogs—reflecting Moser’s own ambition) has offered unique benefits (11:22)

Brand Ethos and Market Position

• Striving to be a “true luxury brand”—not mass or opportunistic (12:12)
• Margins matter to finance innovation and creative freedom, but passion must drive the brand (12:34)
  • “The first element that I need to think of and I hassle my team with is margin.” (12:34)
• Moser’s freedom to innovate—even if polarizing—because of the trust built with their audience (15:17)
  • “The biggest compliment I ever received was someone saying: ‘I really don’t like this watch, but I love that you did it.’” (14:24)
• Ongoing promise (in jest) that Ed will join a full-length Scotland podcast episode—if it’s fishing season! (16:05)

Notable Quotes

• On innovation and identity:
  “If there’s not a love-hate relationship with certain things, then you’re not trying hard enough.” – Host (15:17)
• On branding:
  “You manage—you’re not just the product anymore, you’re a brand.” – Eduard Meylan (14:36)
• On customer relationships:
  “Our clients are our ambassadors, and with Pierre, it’s exactly the same.” – Eduard Meylan (09:47)

Ben Küffer – Norqain

(17:43–30:55)

Key Discussion Points:

New Wild One Meteorite Release

• Wild One collection launched in 2022; latest features an NN21 three-hand Kennessey-manufactured movement with 70-hour power reserve and a Swedish iron meteorite dial (17:43)
• Burgundy color returns—chosen for DNA and character, despite initial hesitance about the color combination (19:04)
  • “It’s a loud mix. …We don’t do commercial. We do designs and want to offer watches that are different.” (20:53)

Material Innovation – Norteq

• Norteq: Carbon fiber composite colored in the mass—world first for scratch-resistant, colored carbon with robust shock absorption (20:59)
  • Co-developed with Pascal Bührer (21:29)
  • “A world premiere – every single carbon fiber is actually colored.” (21:29)

Limited Editions and Branding

• “Stan the Man” (Stan Wawrinka) edition’s rapid sellout:
  • Collaboration success reflects respect for the athlete more than marketing hype (22:29)
  • Emotional connection is crucial—“When you move people’s emotions, that’s when you get good reactions.” (23:34)
• Norqain’s learning curve: Not every co-branding works unless the story is authentic (23:54)
  • Details matter, like custom packaging and straps, to create real collector’s pieces

Growth and UK Market Approach

• Rapid UK expansion post-COVID with carefully curated retail partnerships and a local director (24:58)
• COVID prompted a more focused, authentic approach to product and brand (26:33)

Leadership and Mentorship

• Jean-Claude Biver’s role as mentor and advisor; exchanges go both ways (28:26)
  • “He taught me to really embrace that moment [of doubt]. …So every time somebody asks me which watch to buy, I push them to Jean Claude.” (28:26)
• Close relationship built via Biver’s unsolicited early support:
  • “If you ever feel like a coffee. That was his email.” (28:26)

Notable Quotes

• On Norqain's philosophy:
  “We don’t do commercial. We do designs and also want to offer watches that are different.” – Ben Küffer (20:53)
• On mentorship:
  “He taught me to really embrace that moment [of doubt].” – Ben Küffer, about Jean-Claude Biver (28:26)
• On successful collaborations:
  “When you move people’s emotions, that’s when you get good reactions.” – Ben Küffer (23:34)

Wrist Check

(31:02–33:15)

• Ricky: Ulysse Nardin Freak x Magma Edition with a vibrant red-aftermarket strap. “This is in my top three watches that I own, because it is fantastic. Always puts a smile on my face.” (31:34)
• Dave: Citizen One, incredibly thin (1.89 mm) on a custom Hermès leather strap, solar-powered with a near-see-through dial. “It is an eco-drive watch…very, very wearable and much more durable than you would give it credit for.” (32:08)

Roger W. Smith

(33:30–49:07)

Key Discussion Points

Dubai Watch Week Impressions

• Roger’s first time exhibiting, impressed by the event’s openness and engagement (34:27)
  • “I came here, not with the idea of selling watches…but just to gain the reaction. …It’s been a really enjoyable period.” (34:36)

Milestone Anniversaries and Production Numbers

• 2026: 25th anniversary for Roger W. Smith Ltd. and 40 years since Roger began his horological journey (35:11)
• Fewer than 200 Roger W. Smith watches have ever been made; 186/187 to date (35:41)

Workshop Expansion and Technical Achievements

• Team of 15, slow and conscious growth in British watchmaker training (36:33)
• Release of Series 6 wristwatch:
  • Draws on prior Series 4 innovations (traveling date aperture—hand does not obscure other info)
  • New floating dial adds three-dimensionality and highlights “British” aesthetic (37:04)
  • “You always start off with the dial. …Once you’re happy with the dial, the hands, the case, then you…start to design the mechanism.” (38:33)

Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers

• Alliance now five years old—brings together British brands for industry support and advocacy (39:14)
• Bellwether Report:
  • Quantifies sector; from £125M business and 500 jobs five years ago to £206M and ~1,600 jobs today (41:53, 43:25)
  • Increasing local assembly, and the hope is to grow more domestic component manufacturing in future
  • Focus on training skills—especially practical assembly, rather than most advanced watchmaking skills at this stage (45:48)

Long-Term Industry Perspective

• Education as key to sustaining growth—supporting students and nurturing new talent, much as Switzerland did during the quartz crisis (45:48)
• Realism about recovery: while machinery can be bought, skills/IP take time to (re)build after the UK’s horological industry collapse (46:14)
• Optimism that, as the sector grows, investment in domestic movement/case manufacturing will develop (47:10)

On Dubai Watch Week’s Unique Environment

• Warm, safe, engaging—all conducive to showcasing rare and valuable watches (47:52)
  • “People can see and handle the watches and I think that’s quite distinctive when you sort of put it against other watch shows.” (48:17)

Notable Quotes

• On the value of experimentation:
  “If that doesn’t work, then the watch is kind of a failure in effect.” – Roger Smith on design (38:33)
• On industry growth:
  “The British industry is growing … more brands are trying to do more in the UK as well.” – Host (43:11)
• On education:
  “Without young people being encouraged, you really don’t have a future for watch and clock making in Britain.” – Roger W. Smith (44:11)
• On Dubai Watch Week:
  “Such a friendly, warm environment here and people can see and handle the watches…” – Roger W. Smith (48:17)

Memorable Moments & Fun Banter

• Moser’s Ed bantering about “fishing season” being the only time he’ll come to Scotland for a full episode (16:05)
• Good-natured wrist check with festive outfits and horological pride (31:16)
• Reminiscences about Rich from Studio Underdog’s shy beginnings at a previous Glasgow event (36:01)
• Lighthearted talk about the humble origins and challenges faced by British brands, and the positive outlook fostered by the Alliance (41:02+)

Timestamps for Key Segments

• 00:39 — Ed Meylan interview begins
• 05:16 — Discussion of Moser's F1 collaboration
• 16:50 — Ben Küffer interview begins
• 20:59 — Norteq material explained
• 22:29 — Reflection on “Stan the Man” edition, emotional connections in collaborations
• 24:58 — Norqain UK expansion and COVID’s impact
• 28:26 — Jean-Claude Biver’s mentorship
• 31:02 — Wrist check segment
• 33:30 — Roger W. Smith interview begins
• 37:04 — Series 6 wristwatch explained
• 39:14 — Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers discussion
• 41:53, 43:25 — Bellwether Report & jobs growth
• 47:52 — Final thoughts on Dubai Watch Week and encouragement for more UK engagement

Tone and Language

The episode is lively, friendly, and rich with horological insight. The guests and hosts share a blend of technical knowledge, personal anecdotes, and light banter throughout, capturing the warmth of the watch community and the celebratory spirit of the festive season.

For further details and to see these personalities in action, check the Scottish Watches’ Instagram and show notes.