Scottish Watches Podcast #753: We Unveil The Secrets of Watchmaking

Date: February 16, 2026
Guests: Simon (Montblanc/Minerva), Scottish Watches hosts Ricky and Dave

Episode Overview

This episode, the third in a four-part series with Simon, dives deep into the secrets of watchmaking, focusing on the artistry, challenges, and unique characteristics of Minerva and Montblanc watches. The conversation weaves through technical insights, personal anecdotes, and collector perspectives, illuminating the rarely seen watchmaking traditions and values at Minerva.

Key Discussion Points and Insights

1. A Comprehensive Wrist Check (00:52–12:28)

• Simon’s Wrist Check: Simon starts with a detailed description of the "Unveiled Secret," the third iteration featuring a sapphire crystal dial and innovative case design (01:52).

  • Sapphire windows on the sides enable full visibility of the hand-finished parts.
  • Caliber inverted—not skeletonized—necessitating the addition of 19 (now 21 +) components; now at ~290 components.
  • White gold fluted bezel, 43mm brushed steel case, blue sfomato alligator strap.
  • “The best window is actually the window that sits at 6 o'clock, because...you get this amazing view of the oversized balance wheel beating ever so serenely at 18,000 beats.” — Simon (03:30)
  • Emphasis on the hand-finishing, with perlage and Côtes de Genève, and the assembly process: each caliber is assembled twice (06:04).

• Hosts’ Wrist Checks:

  • Dave: Montblanc bronze edition with green bezel and dial, paired with a custom bund strap; praises ruggedness, legibility, and explorer vibe. (07:40)
  • Ricky: Garrick S4A—a rare, blue-dial, British-made watch inspired by traditional finishing (11:08).

2. The Genesis and Artistry of the Unveiled Secret (12:28–18:01)

• Origins: The idea to invert the movement was inspired by the wonder a child shows at an open caseback ("magnifique"), as recounted by Laurent, head of watchmaking (12:53–16:00).
• Technical Challenge: Turning the movement over required a new technical approach so that the watch still kept time moving forward—hence, the change became a feat of engineering.
• Minerva’s traditional focus: “The calibers were never just designed to work, but there was always this eye on the architecture... How is it finished? There was always a certain beauty to it.” — Simon (16:45)
• Emphasizing handcraft: No shortcuts, even for unseen components; “Why would you do that? ... But why not? When you've got the skill, the craftsmanship, when you've got the knowledge, why not put that time, why not put that effort into creating something that is truly unique?” — Simon (18:20)

3. Monopusher Chronographs and Design Philosophy (20:01–23:56)

• Why monopusher? Returning to Minerva’s roots and seeking elegance—monopusher-in-crown chronographs are true to historical form and provide a sleek aesthetic. Two-pusher chronographs considered more sporty (20:42–23:56).
  • “There's also a certain elegance when we think about it on the case as well...for a lot of people it just looks like a normal wristwatch.” — Simon (21:40)
• Integration into crown: Keeps the design clean and subtle, enhancing versatility.

4. The Hidden-in-Plain-Sight Dilemma: Montblanc/Minerva’s Quiet Achievements (23:56–26:27)

• Though technical advancements—like oxygen-free watches and unique chronograph activation—are world-class, the brand tends not to shout about them.
• Collection sizes: Minerva produces only “very low hundreds” per year; many are pre-sold through loyal, cross-category collectors (pens and watches).
• Plans for dedicated Minerva boutiques are underway, but low volumes keep the watches exclusive.

5. Collector Stories and Brand Community (26:27–30:23)

• Anecdote: Simon recounts a collector's family visit—demonstrating personal, generational connections to the brand (28:00).
• Deeper point: For makers and buyers, the relationships are personal and deeply rewarding, not merely transactional.
  • “To meet the collectors who are buying it...for them as well, that can be also super rewarding...you really have this connection.” — Simon (30:23)

6. Manufacturer Tours and The Realities of High-End Watchmaking (32:23–34:22)

• The hosts affirm Minerva is “in the top two” of all watch manufacturing tours they have experienced, highlighting authenticity and transparency.
• Montblanc’s corporate position gives it scope to pursue genuinely artisanal projects without needing mass-market volume to sustain itself.

7. From Pens to Watches: Parallels and Innovations (35:49–44:19)

• Montblanc’s 1990s expansion from writing instruments into watches was driven by an understanding of "masculine essentials" and a desire to bring German engineering to horology.

• The techniques and aesthetics from pen-making inform watch artistry—examples include nib shapes echoed in watch straps and cross-category themes leading to high-artistry timepieces.

  • “He saw straight away that...this is basically...a watch atelier. You just happen to be making pens here.” — Simon (40:29)

• Watch/pen crossover: Increasing “translation” of pen technology and aesthetics to watches; speculation from Dave on shared materials and technologies (43:03–44:19).

8. The Collecting Journey: Entry Points and Progression (44:41–48:42)

• Typical paths:
  • Knowledgeable collectors discover via the complicated Nicolas Rieussec pieces.
  • Adventurers/left-field buyers enter with the Geosphere—a “gateway drug.”
  • Cross-category fans start with writing instruments or leather, move to Star Legacy.
• Gradual movement from mainstream models to rare or “artisan” Minerva offerings. Loyalty and “quiet luxury” appreciated.
• Collector escalation: “Before you know it, you’re asking for invites to artisan events and you want to buy something that...you're really one of probably only 100 people on the planet that own it.” — Simon (47:22)

9. Brand Identity and Recognition (48:42–49:41)

• Montblanc as an ecosystem—watches, pens, leather goods—contrasted to most single-category watch brands.
• Montblanc’s emblem is rebranded jokingly as “Allen Key Torx logo thingy.” (49:28, Ricky)
• Simon: “Many things that I've heard the emblem be called, but an Allen Key talk. This is now a first, Ricky.”

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On movement architecture and finishing:

  • “The fact that you guys actually had a go at doing it...you saw yourselves just how challenging and difficult it is. Sandra...does it so quickly you think it's one of the...easier types of decoration. But it's not until you actually have a go yourself that you realize just how skilled and how amazing she is...” — Simon (06:06)

• Collectors’ connection:

  • “To meet the collectors who are buying it...can be also super rewarding...you're not just making something that disappears into the ether. You really have this connection.” — Simon (30:23)

• On Minerva’s humility:

  • “We are literally only producing in the very low hundreds each year....the trouble is we just don't have that many pieces because we keep selling them, which is a great position.” — Simon (26:00)

• Brand identity:

  • “If there was ever a gateway drug, the Geosphere is it...I'm a simple guy. Give me something moving on a dial and I'm all over it.” — Simon (46:24)

Important Timestamps

• 00:52–04:23 — Simon’s Wrist Check: Full breakdown of the Unveiled Secret watch.
• 07:40–11:08 — Hosts’ Wrist Checks: Commentary on the Montblanc bronze edition & Garrick S4A.
• 12:53–16:45 — Origins of the inverted calibre, inspired by Laurent's daughter.
• 18:01–20:42 — Craftsmanship, rationale for visible movements.
• 20:42–23:56 — Philosophy and execution of monopusher chronographs.
• 26:27–30:23 — Minerva’s exclusivity, dedicated collectors, and the brand’s close relationship with its clients.
• 35:49–38:53 — The 1990s decision to enter horology, intertwining of pen and watchmaking.
• 44:41–48:42 — Building a collection with Montblanc; the typical stages and progression.
• 49:28–49:41 — The Allen Key Torx logo moment; humor on brand identity.

Episode Tone

The conversation is warm, informal, and peppered with Scottish humor, friendly teasing, and genuine enthusiasm for horology. Simon’s detailed storytelling is both technical and approachable, and banter between the hosts adds energy and accessibility.

Final Thoughts

This episode offers a rare, inside look at what makes Minerva—and by extension Montblanc—unique in Swiss watchmaking: not just technical mastery, but an artisanal ethos, a dedication to craft for its own sake, and a real sense of community with collectors. It’s a recommended listen for anyone interested in high horology, collecting journeys, or the hidden stories behind some of the world’s most beautifully made timepieces.