SER Historia | Las guerras
Cadena SER · 17 de agosto, 2025
Con Nacho Ares

Overview

This special summer episode explores how major wars—notably the World Wars—transformed society far beyond the battlefield. Instead of focusing solely on violence and politics, host Nacho Ares and expert guests delve into the surprising ways that warfare influenced fashion and everyday life, particularly for women, and shaped the industry for generations. The episode also touches on Spain's nuanced role in international conflicts, and the use of graphic novels to bring complex history, such as the Spanish Civil War, to new audiences.

1. How Wars Shaped Fashion (00:01–10:43)

Guests:

• Laura Luceño, Herbert González (professors, Centro Superior de Diseño de Moda, Universidad Politécnica de Madrid)

Key Points and Insights

• Transformation of Women's Fashion

  • Masculinization and Practicality: The World Wars led to more practical designs for women’s clothing, mimicking military uniforms and simplifying everyday attire (02:59).
  • War Accelerates Change: With men at the front, women entered the workforce in large numbers, leading to greater freedom and functional design in their clothes (06:03).
  • A shift in textiles and production: Fabric shortages (due to war rationing) forced designers and consumers to innovate. French high couture continued in media, though everyday women couldn't access it (05:18).
  • Anecdote: The end of corsets: “El corsé se usa hasta el año 14. Incluso uno de los lemas de la propia Primera Guerra Mundial es que con los metales de los corsés hacer armas.” — Herbert González (06:26)

• The Invention of Sizing Systems

  • WWI saw the establishment of clothing sizes for mass uniform production, which transferred to civilian fashion postwar (03:26–03:38).

• Rise of Iconic Items

  • Moccasins: Became popular due to practicality for those injured in war (09:01–09:53).
  • Visibility of Shoes: As dress hems rose—driven by practicality—shoes gained prominence as fashion items (08:16).
  • Cloche Hats: Modeled after soldiers' helmets, these became a mark of 1920s women’s style (08:16).

• Spanish Context

  • Spain’s textile industry benefited by supplying materials to warring nations, spurring research into synthetic fabrics (09:17).

Memorable Quotes

• “La mujer antes de la Primera Guerra Mundial lleva un vestido que le llega a los pies, pero nunca los muestra... una de las primeras consecuencias es que el bajo del vestido se eleva y se empiezan a ver los zapatos.” — Laura Luceño (08:16)
• “Uno de los lemas de la propia Primera Guerra Mundial es que con los metales de los corsés hacer armas.” — Herbert González (06:26)

2. Coco Chanel: War, Society, and the Evolution of Style (11:57–27:37)

Guest:

• Lorenzo Caprile (designer)

Key Points and Insights

• Coco Chanel’s Influence

  • Pioneered functional, elegant fashion for women; borrowed heavily from men’s wardrobes (13:16).
  • Utilized novel materials (tweed, jersey, sailor stripes), shifting away from the Belle Époque’s explosion of color (13:16–14:52).
  • Her early hardships (an orphanage, poverty) informed her minimalist aesthetic and relentless ambition (15:33).

• Breaking Society’s Molds

  • Chanel’s designs helped eliminate both the literal corset and restrictive social expectations for women.
  • “Las mujeres no somos papagayos, somos seres humanos que queremos trabajar, queremos disfrutar de la vida, queremos movernos sin renunciar a la elegancia.” — Lorenzo Caprile (17:16)

• Personal Controversy

  • Discusses Chanel’s alleged relationships with Nazi officers and her complicated legacy—antisemitism, attempts to reclaim her perfume brand during German occupation, and subsequent exile to Switzerland (18:49–21:46).

• Artistic Collaboration and Legacy

  • Her interactions with Picasso, Diaghilev, and the stories surrounding her design partnerships (23:34–25:16).
  • Chanel’s brand succeeded in two separate periods; she reestablished her influence after WWII—a rare achievement (25:52).

Notable Quotes

• “En mi caso concreto, para mí Coco Chanel lo es todo... quitó muchos encorsetamientos sociales y de la moda también.” — Lorenzo Caprile (12:48, 13:11)
• “Juzgar con lo que hoy sabemos en el 2022 de todo aquel horror… me parece muy arriesgado.” — Lorenzo Caprile (21:10)

3. The Spanish Civil War: A Graphic History (29:03–40:31)

Guest:

• José Pablo García (comic artist, adapter of Paul Preston’s "La Guerra Civil Española")

Key Points and Insights

• Adapting Complex History to Comics

  • Paul Preston was initially skeptical about comic adaptation, fearing it would trivialize the subject (31:33–31:48).
  • García aimed for sobriety and density: “He intentado que tenga la misma densidad informativa que el ensayo original.” (31:48)
  • Art style: Used somber colors and clear, realistic drawing to reflect gravity; avoided “colorines” typical of children’s comics (34:00–35:24).

• Navigating Sensitivities

  • Conscious effort to maintain neutrality and accuracy; no caricaturing one side over the other (36:48).

• Appeal and Audience

  • Not intended for children; aims to make the history accessible without simplifying it for a juvenile audience (39:18).

Memorable Moment

• “El libro puede servir igualmente a todos aquellos que hayan leído el ensayo de Preston y les sirva para que los dibujos les sean para complementar toda esa información… no es nada aconsejable para un niño.” — José Pablo García (39:18)

4. Spain’s Strategic Role in WWII (42:12–53:12)

Guest:

• Álvaro Franco (director, Descubrir la Historia magazine)

Key Points and Insights

• Spain’s “Neutrality” in WWII

  • Despite official neutrality, Spain was crucial due to Gibraltar’s strategic position. Both sides sought control/influence (44:11).
  • Espionage hotspots: Hotels like Reina Cristina in Algeciras were key meeting points for German agents (46:35).

• Espionage and Operations

  • Spain was pivotal in counterespionage operations—most famously the British Operation Mincemeat (“Operación Carne Picada”), which used a fake “William Martin” to mislead Germany about Allied invasion plans (50:29–53:12).

• Impact on Civilians

  • Spanish territory saw real consequences: Italian bombing of La Línea (July 1941) caused civilian casualties—rare for Spain during WWII (48:02).

Memorable Quotes

• “El papel de España en esta contienda todavía está siendo objeto de estudio, de polémica… y encontraron sucesos absolutamente interesantes y muy desconocidos para el público general.” — Álvaro Franco (44:11)
• “La historia de este falso [William Martin] es quizá una de las más divertidas… en toda la historia de la Segunda Guerra Mundial.” — Nacho Ares (51:35)

Key Timestamps

• 00:01 – Introduction: The positive legacies of war, especially in fashion
• 02:38 – The two World Wars’ impact on clothing design and the rise of sizing systems
• 05:18 – Wartime shortages drive textile innovation and creative adaptation
• 06:26 – The fall of the corset and the rise of Coco Chanel as a symbol
• 08:16 – The emergence of new fashion items (e.g. moccasins, cloche hats)
• 11:57 – Lorenzo Caprile on Coco Chanel’s revolutionary impact
• 15:33 – Chanel’s background shapes her designs and character
• 17:16 – Chanel’s social message and relationship with her contemporaries
• 18:49 – Chanel’s controversial WWII years and lasting legacy
• 29:03 – José Pablo García discusses adapting “La Guerra Civil Española” to comic form
• 34:00 – Artistic choices to convey seriousness and neutrality
• 39:18 – Target audience and educational intent of the comic
• 42:12 – Spain’s quiet but strategic involvement in WWII
• 46:35 – Espionage and the “hotel de los espías”
• 48:02 – Civilian bombings and Spain’s experience of WWII violence
• 50:29 – Operation Mincemeat: the ultimate WWII deception involving Spain

Final Reflections

Throughout the episode, Nacho Ares and his guests highlight that while war means devastation, it is also a powerful engine for societal transformation, creativity, and social change. From the trenches to the ateliers of Paris, conflict has left enduring marks on fashion, civil rights, international intrigue, and the way we remember and represent our collective past.

For further exploration:

• Picasso – Chanel Exhibition: Museo Thyssen, until January 15.
• La Guerra Civil Española (comic): José Pablo García’s adaptation of Paul Preston, editorial Debate.
• Descubrir la Historia magazine: Special issue on Spain and WWII.

Compiled for listeners seeking both depth and accessibility—this episode of SER Historia demonstrates that the story of war is not just about what’s lost, but also about what’s unexpectedly gained.