SER Historia – "Una joya histórica" — Summary
Podcast: SER Historia
Episode: Una joya histórica
Date: 9 May 2023
Host: Nacho Ares
Guest: Lorenzo Caprile (modista)
Theme: The hidden stories and symbolism behind historic royal textiles, focusing on a unique embroidered carpet in Spain’s Royal Collections.
Episode Overview
This episode, titled "Una joya histórica," blends lively conversation and historical insight to unravel the story behind an extraordinary artifact in the upcoming "Galería de las Colecciones Reales" in Madrid. Fashion designer Lorenzo Caprile joins Nacho Ares to discuss the intricate symbolism, craftsmanship, and cultural significance of an 18th-century hand-embroidered carpet created by Antonio Gómez de los Ríos for King Ferdinand VI and his wife Bárbara de Braganza.
Key Discussion Points & Insights
Introduction to the Royal Collections and the Artifact
[00:21-02:22]
- The episode opens with Nacho introducing the connection between fashion, history, and art, setting the stage for an exploration of royal wardrobes and their deeper meanings.
- Lorenzo Caprile shares his excitement at being selected to present his favorite piece from the soon-to-open "Galería de las Colecciones Reales."
- He describes the gallery as a minimalist granite building in Madrid, housing a wide range of royal artifacts—painting, furniture, and especially luxurious textiles.
"He elegido una pieza espectacular, única en el mundo, que a primera vista parece un tapiz. Y no es un tapiz."
— Lorenzo Caprile [01:33]
The Embroidered Carpet: Description and Symbolism
[02:22-04:37]
- The featured artifact is a hand-embroidered carpet (often mistaken for a tapestry) by Antonio Gómez de los Ríos, commissioned by Ferdinand VI and Bárbara de Braganza.
- Caprile explains its rich symbolism:
- Heraldic icons: fleur-de-lis (Bourbon dynasty), quinas (House of Braganza).
- Religious motifs: the rose (Passion of Christ), the grapes (Eucharist wine).
- Continents: four corners display Africa, Asia, Europe, and America.
- Madrid’s emblem: "madroños," as Ferdinand VI was a rare Madrid-born monarch.
- Central image: King David playing the lute, symbolizing the royal couple’s passion for music and their patronage of figures like Farinelli.
"Imaginaros el poderío, poder pisar eso todos los días... una pieza espectacular, Nacho, que es única en el mundo."
— Lorenzo Caprile [03:36]
The Role of Antonio Gómez de los Ríos
[04:37-06:07]
- Antonio Gómez de los Ríos not only crafted the carpet but also served as a master embroiderer and teacher to royal children, including Carlos III when he was still an infante.
- Embroidery was regarded as a courtly accomplishment, taught alongside music and dance, regardless of gender.
"El bordado se consideraba una habilidad erudita... propio de un cortesano y más de un infante, lógicamente."
— Lorenzo Caprile [05:32]
Modern Symbolism in Dress, and Personal Anecdotes
[06:07-07:37]
- Nacho asks if symbolic motifs are used today. Caprile notes the decline in such traditions but shares a playful modern example: embroidering a football club’s (Atlético de Madrid) crest inside a wedding dress as a secret tribute.
- Some clients request small personal relics to be sewn into garments, but overall, the layered symbolism of the past is mostly lost.
“La anécdota más curiosa... le bordáramos en el vestido el escudo del Atleti, cosa que hicimos... y lo descubrió ya casadísima.”
— Lorenzo Caprile [06:54]
The Language of Colors and Historical Dye Techniques
[07:37-09:28]
- Caprile elaborates on the significance of color in royal and noble attire:
- Certain colors, especially red, denoted wealth due to the high cost of dyes (from Mediterranean mollusks or cochineal insects).
- The use of red by the Roman Curia is cited as a display of affluence.
- The carpet features a predominance of blue, emblematic of the Bourbon dynasty.
"El tinte más caro en absoluto era el tinte rojo... la curia romana... ¿de qué color viste? De rojo..."
— Lorenzo Caprile [08:07]
"Predomina el azul, que como todos sabéis, el azul es el color emblemático de la Casa Borbón."
— Lorenzo Caprile [09:29]
Authorship and Artistic Recognition
[09:57-12:24]
- Unlike most textile artisans of his era, Gómez de los Ríos signed his works, claiming an artist’s identity.
- Caprile details the "matizado" embroidery technique (“pintura a la aguja”), allowing for painterly, shaded effects—an approach influenced by Chinese silk embroidery.
"Antonio Gómez de los Ríos fue pionero en firmar sus obras."
— Lorenzo Caprile [10:01]
"La técnica utilizada... es el matizado, que es la pintura a la aguja. De lejos prácticamente parece un óleo..."
— Lorenzo Caprile [11:03]
The Future of the Royal Collections Gallery
[12:24-13:17]
- Caprile announces that the public opening of the Royal Collections Gallery is imminent—pending bureaucratic arrangements and political schedules.
"A lo largo del verano ya todos los visitantes de a pie podremos disfrutar de estas colecciones que son absolutamente maravillosas, con piezas únicas en el mundo."
— Lorenzo Caprile [13:08]
Notable Quotes and Memorable Moments
- “He elegido una pieza espectacular, única en el mundo, que a primera vista parece un tapiz. Y no es un tapiz.” (Lorenzo Caprile, [01:33])
- “Imaginaros el poderío, poder pisar eso todos los días…” (Lorenzo Caprile, [03:36])
- “El bordado se consideraba una habilidad erudita... propio de un cortesano y más de un infante, lógicamente.” (Lorenzo Caprile, [05:32])
- “La anécdota más curiosa... le bordáramos en el vestido el escudo del Atleti, cosa que hicimos... y lo descubrió ya casadísima.” (Lorenzo Caprile, [06:54])
- “Predomina el azul, que como todos sabéis, el azul es el color emblemático de la Casa Borbón." (Lorenzo Caprile, [09:29])
- “Antonio Gómez de los Ríos fue pionero en firmar sus obras.” (Lorenzo Caprile, [10:01])
Important Timestamps
- 00:21 — Introduction: Fashion, history, and royal collections
- 02:22 — Artifact description: The unique 18th-century carpet
- 04:37 — Gómez de los Ríos as royal teacher and artist
- 06:07 — Modern symbolism in clothes; personal anecdotes
- 07:37 — Symbolism and economic value of color in textiles
- 09:57 — Authorship in historic textiles; the "matizado" technique
- 12:24 — Gallery’s public opening and concluding remarks
Final Thoughts
“Una joya histórica” is an engaging journey through Spain’s royal textile heritage, giving listeners deeper appreciation for the artistry and storytelling woven into royal adornments. Lorenzo Caprile balances expertise, humor, and relatable anecdotes, reviving the lost language of symbols and colors, and showcasing how historical fashion remains both an art and a reflection of society.
For further episodes and content, check out the SER Historia podcast through your favorite platforms.