Skin Anarchy Podcast: Fall Fragrance Edit – The Best Vanilla & Oud Scents Curated by Olya Bar

Host: Dr. Ekta
Guest: Olya Bar (Fragrance Expert, Head of Marketing at your perfume)
Date: October 10, 2025
Episode Theme: A deep dive into the evolving world of fall fragrances, with a special focus on innovative vanilla and oud scents, expertly curated and explained by Olya Bar.

Overview

This annual episode of Skin Anarchy brings back fragrance expert Olya Bar to guide listeners through the best and most interesting vanilla and oud scents for the fall season. Olya shares her curated picks, provides context about rising trends, and offers advice for those seeking both comforting and boundary-pushing fragrances. The conversation offers an insider’s perspective on sourcing, formulation, and how fragrance preferences evolve, with special consideration for individuality in scent experience.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Evolving Tastes and the State of Fragrance (00:00–03:29)

• Olya shares life updates: she's now Head of Marketing for a digital perfume division and a new mom. Her tastes have shifted post-pregnancy but her passion for fragrance remains strong.
• A growing trend: seasoned fragrance lovers are moving from sweet “cupcake” vanillas to deeper, richer, and more complex compositions.

  “Just like anything else, you end up graduating towards, you know, kind of more interesting cocktails … better composition.” — Olya (03:10)

2. Vanilla Fragrance Highlights (03:29–18:30)

a. Reserve and a Freak – Vanille Maphonia (03:29–06:51)

• Origin: South African brand focused on conservation; all ingredients sourced from Africa.
• Profile: Salty opening, Madagascar vanilla, with spicy cinnamon, pink pepper, nutmeg, ylang ylang, myrrh, olibanum; warm, ambery, with a “walking-through-the-jungle” feel.
• Packaging: Striking presentation that stands out.
• Quote:

  “It highlights the best facets of the Madagascar vanilla, with this interesting kind of spicy, deeper warmth.” — Olya (05:01)

b. Matiere Premiere – Vanilla Powder Extrait (06:51–09:05)

• Perfumer: Aurelien Guichard, focusing on single-ingredient spotlights.
• Development: Extrait version features tonka bean (nuttier, warmer, less powdery than original).
• Trend: Extraits are popular for their increased depth and presence.
• Quote:

  “It’s so much deeper and it’s so much nuttier … less powdery to my nose at least.” — Olya (08:30)

c. Fugazi – Vanilla Haze & Vanilla Haze Extrait (09:05–11:23)

• Brand: Amsterdam-based, irreverent approach.
• Profile: Buttery, sweet, cashmere base, almond, hazelnut, coconut milk. Extrait version is spicier and boozier.
• Molecular style: Big, airy fragrances; a direction many gourmands are heading.

d. Atelier des Ors – Vanilla Nova (11:23–13:00)

• Profile: Powderier vanilla with a fluffy mimosa heart, and mineral opening for balance.
• Design: “Gold floating in their bottles”; distinctive, luxurious presentation.
• Quote:

  “It’s kind of hard to make a vanilla so balanced and has depth … but this does it.” — Olya (12:37)

e. Mancera – Brown Sugar & Oud Vanilla with Dark Chocolate (13:00–14:07)

• Profile: Intense blend of brown sugar, oud, and dark chocolate; “not everyone’s cup of tea” due to the pronounced chocolate-oud combo.
• Note: Needs to be worn on skin, as oud interacts individually.

f. Lesse – Amber, Sweet, Fruity Vanilla (Unofficial) (14:07–15:37)

• Profile: Woody, aromatic, features tonka bean, peppery opening, rice, almond, labdanum, and quince.
• Notable: Doesn’t list vanilla but tonka bean brings that nuance.

g. BDK Parfums – Vanilla Caviar (Upcoming) (16:16–17:56)

• Anticipation: Not yet launched in the US, highly expected.

3. Trends in Sampling and Discovery (18:30–19:31)

• Advice: The market is saturated; focus on small curated samplings, e.g., samples or discovery sets, for meaningful at-home exploration.
• Quote:

  “Really narrow it down and just kind of going in for, like, a really curated tasting ... makes it extra special.” — Olya (18:56)

4. Skin Chemistry and Scent Experience (19:31–20:05)

• Variability in how gourmand fragrances develop on different skins—reviews and others’ experiences may not match your own.

5. Oud: Demystification, Guidance & Standout Picks (20:11–36:04)

Oud as an Ingredient (20:43–23:19)

• Background: Originates from a bacterial/ fungal infection in Aquilaria trees. Real oud is rare, expensive, and aged; synthetics widely used and accessible.
• In the West: Adopted only in the last 10–15 years; now, greater presence in mainstream markets.

How to Approach Oud

• Start with “light” ouds, work into deeper, heavier forms as your palate grows.
• Layering: Can be layered or worn on clothing for a softer presence.
• Quote:

  “For anybody who is afraid of oud, I would start with Chabot ... Mysterious Oud ... one of the lightest ouds I’ve ever encountered.” — Olya (22:40)

Oud Fragrance Highlights

• Montale Paris (Pierre Montale)

  • Classic & Modern Ouds: Black Oud, Dark Oud (leather/ sandalwood), Nepal Oud, White Oud, Oud Safarat (woody chypre, opens with pineapple then moves to dark Cambodian oud, saffron, birch, cinnamon, coconut).
  • Quote:

    “This blend kind of starts tropical, then dips into something dark, resinous, and comes back into that tropical warmth...” — Olya (25:18)

• Laximus – Astrum Nova (27:03–28:18)

  • Profile: Mango, bergamot, mandarin opening, osmanthus, orris, oud, tonka bean.
  • Angle: Invites those hesitant about oud with fruity, floral, approachable tones.

• Atelier Materi – Burgundy Oud (28:18–30:24)

  • Impression: Blackcurrant, magnolia, oud, leather; “reads as a full-bodied glass of Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir.”
  • Quote:

    “It smelled like a great glass of Cabernet Sauvignon ... left with really beautiful oud and leather in the dry down.” — Olya (29:23)

• Creed – Oud Zaryan (30:24–31:30)

  • Prestige: Features 80-year-old aged oud. Smooth, resiny drydown with licorice, myrrh, tonka bean, patchouli, sandalwood, ginger, frankincense, and rose.
  • Audience: For true oud connoisseurs and Creed collectors.

• Mizensir – Perfect Oud (Extrait) (31:30–32:45)

  • Composition: Alberto Morillas creation; spicy cardamom, rose, cedar, rum, oud, vanilla, incense.
  • “Rum and oud accord with a little vanilla and incense is just marvelous because that booziness and a drydown ... really amplifies the oud and the rose.” — Olya (32:37)

• Goldfield & Banks – Tales of Amber (32:45–35:58)

  • Origin: Australia; notes include salty amber, oud, orange blossom, moss, orris, vanilla, ambergris.
  • Complexity: “Salty, warm, mineral, resinous, with muskiness and a green, airy quality. Not for beginners; surprising in the best way.”
  • Quote:

    “It kind of took me through all these different stages … salty, warm, mineral … then resinous.” — Olya (34:45)

6. Future Fragrance Trends & Innovation (37:02–40:42)

• Emerging Notes: Durian fruit used in a few avant-garde fragrances; exciting to see what daring brands create.
• AI in Fragrance:

  “AI is big on the scene ... it’s a tool ... as long as it’s in an ethical way ... it helps the fragrance community and industry.” — Olya (38:21)

• Boozy Fragrances:
  • Olya is personally drawn to fragrances inspired by spirits (champagne, cognac, liqueurs), such as Xerjoff’s champagne scent and Mika’s Notorious XO (cognac inspired).

7. Advice for Fragrance Lovers (41:22–42:51)

• Rediscover Old Favorites: Don’t overlook past staples in the rush for new launches. Revisiting classics can be rewarding and grounding.

• Quote:

  “Don’t get overwhelmed. Just focus on ... maybe smelling five fragrances at a time ... and going back to some that have worked before.” — Olya (42:24)

• Layering:

  • Experiment with combining new acquisitions and familiar scents to create unique, personalized blends.

Notable Quotes & Moments

• On Shifting Tastes:

  “Fragrance tastes develop ... people graduate from cupcake vanilla to more interesting cocktails.” — Olya (03:10)

• Vanille Maphonia:

  “It has this resinous touch ... ambery ... it’s stunning.” — Olya (05:01)

• On Sampling:

  “Really narrow it down ... a curated tasting ... makes it extra special.” — Olya (18:55)

• On Approaching Oud:

  “Keep testing ... some will be heavier ... some easier to digest. Work your way in.” — Olya (23:10)

• On Boozy Fragrance Trends:

  “I enjoy boozy fragrances a lot more [than spirits] ... so much room to create there.” — Olya (39:55)

• On Staying True to Your Collection:

  “Go back to your closet ... revisit some of those fragrances ... like old friends that never go out of style.” — Olya (42:24)

Timestamps for Key Segments

• 00:00–03:29: Intro & Fragrance Trends Overview
• 03:29–18:30: Deep Dive on Vanilla Scents
• 18:30–20:05: Sampling, Gourmand Fragrances & Skin Chemistry
• 20:11–36:04: Oud Education & Recommendations
• 37:02–40:42: Upcoming Trends, AI, and Boozy Notes
• 41:22–42:51: Rediscovering Old Favorites & Layering Advice

Closing Thoughts

Olya Bar’s annual fragrance curation offers a sophisticated, global perspective on vanilla and oud. She encourages listeners to explore both new and classic scents with intention, reminding us of the artistry, individuality, and emotion that make the world of fragrance endlessly compelling. Whether you’re a curious beginner or a seasoned perfume collector, the episode provides practical tips, noteworthy brand recommendations, and plenty of inspiration for your fall scent wardrobe.

Find Olya Bar’s social links in the show notes to keep up with her latest recommendations on fragrance and skincare.