Skin Anarchy Podcast: “Poetry, Balance, and the Art of Scent”

Guest: Pissara Umavijani (Founder & Perfumer, Parfums Dusita)

Date: January 16, 2026
Host: Dr. Ekta

Episode Overview

In this special Fragrance Friday episode, Dr. Ekta sits down with Pissara Umavijani, the founder and creative force behind the acclaimed niche fragrance house Parfums Dusita. Their conversation unpacks the intersection of poetry, memory, and craft in perfumery, and delves deeply into Pissara’s Thai heritage, her father’s artistic legacy, and the unique approach she brings to scent creation. They explore topics like cultural storytelling through fragrance, balancing notes and emotions, and the shifting definitions in the world of niche and artisanal perfumery.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Founding Parfums Dusita & The Thai Connection (01:21–04:13)

• Personal Journey:

  • Pissara shares her transition from a perfume collector and self-taught perfumer in Thailand to founding Parfums Dusita in Paris.
  • "More than 10 years ago, I decided to come to Paris and leave everything behind in Thailand, then decided to start my own company called Parfums Dusita with the dream to create a perfume that makes people happy." — Pissara (01:21)
  • Dusita means a level of paradise in Thai culture, representing passion and pursuing what you love.

• Cultural Storytelling:

  • Pissara aims to embed the spirit of Thai hospitality (“the smile, the thoughtfulness of Thai people”) into her boutique and scents.
  • She emphasizes compassion, launching a platform called "Era1" focused on the symbolic role of elephants and compassion in Thai life.
  • "I want to bring that spirit into my perfume and also into my boutique...the essence of Thai culture is also about being compassionate." — Pissara (03:02)

2. Integrating Poetry and Scent (04:13–07:31)

• Her Father’s Poetry:

  • Pissara’s father, Montri Umavijani, was a respected poet, and his English haikus appear on every Dusita bottle.
  • The poetic sensibility shapes how Pissara approaches perfume creation — for example, interpreting a line like,
    "My feeling for you is like flower blooming in an empty room."
    into a white floral bouquet (Melodie de l’Amour).
  • Emotional moments shine through as she discusses caring for her father during his illness and his advice to work with passion for art’s sake.
  • "He said that...if we love what we do, if one person appreciates what you do, you can die happy." — Pissara (05:38)

• Scent & Emotion:

  • The collaboration of poetry and perfume creates a richer, more evocative experience. Perfume is seen as “a whole world that opens up” with every bottle.

3. Signature Fragrances: Creation Stories

a. Tonka Latte (07:31–12:01)

• Poetic Inspiration:
  • Pissara recites her father’s poem which inspired the fragrance:
    "No matter how things have changed, the human heart will beat for warmth and love." (08:00)
  • The scent was inspired by the comfort and warmth of home, especially after travel, mirrored in notes of Tonka bean, white florals, vanilla, and warm milk accord.
  • "When they spray the perfume, they feel comfort, nostalgia...like a warm hug." — Pissara (09:06)
  • Host comments on its sophistication and versatility among current trends of “milk” or gourmand fragrances.

b. Pavillon d’Or (12:01–15:12)

• Genderless, Place-driven Creation:
  • Inspired by her travel to Brittany, France, the fragrance is an olfactory landscape—with honeysuckle, oak, boronia—centered around ideas of serenity amidst change.
  • "How to stay golden and serene in the middle of changes in life...water moving on the stone, honeysuckle flower, the oak wood...describe as like a landscape." — Pissara (12:53)
  • Host praises the fragrance’s ability to evoke place, calling it “clean, aquatic, seaside,” and multivalent in style.

4. The Art of Blending: Philosophy & Process (15:12–18:45)

• Emotional Anchors:

  • Scents are designed to evoke not just a place or note, but a deeper feeling, e.g., “the scent of freedom” in Isara.
  • Uses raw materials for their emotive qualities—clary sage (clarity of mind), sandalwood, vetiver for “greenness of laser,” and so on.
  • Formula development is hands-on, with artisanal trial and error.
  • "Perfumers can bring people into different places in the world, into another emotion...not just a scent, but deeper than that, a feeling." — Pissara (15:12)

• Balance in Perfumery:

  • Balancing accords is seen as the mark of lasting, great perfume.
  • Host expresses desire for more discussion about what true “balance” means in fragrance chemistry.

5. Cultural Narrative in Fragrance (18:45–20:33)

• Host notes the prevalence of Middle Eastern fragrance trends, expressing appreciation for brands like Dusita that bring other cultures, like Thai, to the forefront.
• "Brands such as yours are bringing other cultures forward, and I would love to see that more." — Host (17:20)

6. The Changing Landscape: Niche vs. Artisanal Perfumery (19:32–22:53)

• Evolving Definitions:

  • Pissara points out that “niche” has become diluted—the label now covers many brands (even those with airport distribution), losing its original sense of artistry and selectivity.
  • The host and guest distinguish “artisanal” (committed to artistry and depth) from “niche” (potentially commercialized/overextended).

• Pricing & Accessibility:

  • Dusita’s pricing philosophy has remained unchanged for five years to keep fragrances accessible.
  • The host discusses the importance of learning to appreciate quality, artistry, and olfactory differences over price alone.
  • "I wanted people to afford to access to the products. That’s how I think." — Pissara (22:27)

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On Artistic Legacy and Passion:
  • "If we love what we do, if one person appreciates what you do, you can die happy." — Montri Umavijani (shared by Pissara, 05:38)
• On the Purpose of Perfume:
  • "We talk less and less about the beauty of perfume, the poetry of perfume, the balance and the harmony...At the end of the day, we shouldn't forget about that." — Pissara (18:45)
• On Craft and Culture:
  • "I want to bring that [Thai] spirit into my perfume and also into my boutique." —Pissara (03:02)
• On Scent & Memory:
  • "Perfumers can bring people into different places in the world—into another emotion. Not just a scent, but deeper than that, a feeling." —Pissara (15:12)

Timestamps for Key Segments

• 00:45 — Pissara’s greeting & introduction
• 01:21–03:00 — Founding story & Thai influence
• 04:49 — Integrating her father’s poetry
• 07:31 — Host introduces Tonka Latte, its award, and its story
• 08:00 — Tonka Latte’s poetic inspiration and emotional intent
• 12:01 — Pavillon d'Or, genderlessness, and evoking landscape
• 15:12 — The process & emotional focus of crafting scents
• 18:45 — Cultural representation in fragrance trends
• 19:32–22:53 — Niche vs. artisanal, market insights, pricing thoughts
• 22:53–24:02 — Closing thoughts & well wishes

Tone & Style

The conversation is warm, reflective, and passionate, combining the host's curiosity and respect for Dusita’s artistry with Pissara’s poetic, humble storytelling. Listeners are treated to personal anecdotes, explorations of scent and poetry, and an insider’s perspective on both the craft and commerce of perfume.

Conclusion

This episode offers a rare and intimate look at the intertwining of poetry, culture, and art behind Parfums Dusita. Pissara Umavijani’s dedication to balanced, meaningful, and accessible fragrances comes alive through both her words and her scents, underscoring the vital role of emotion, culture, and craftsmanship in the world of modern perfumery.

For more: Visit Parfums Dusita or find links in the episode show notes.