Skin Anarchy — Redefining the Modern Red Lip with Denise Vasi, Founder of MAED

Host: Dr. Ekta
Guest: Denise Vasi (Founder, MAED)
Date: December 29, 2025

Episode Overview

This episode of Skin Anarchy centers on redefining the legacy and future of the red lip, featuring an in-depth conversation with Denise Vasi, founder of the brand MAED. Host Dr. Ekta and Denise discuss the origins of MAED, the technical and emotional journey behind creating a universally inclusive red lip, and the evolution of lip care from a neglected afterthought to a ritual of self-care and empowerment. The discussion delves into beauty industry trends, product innovation, inclusivity, consumer psychology, and the cultural symbolism of red lipstick. Denise also shares entrepreneurial insights for budding founders.

Key Themes & Insights

1. Denise Vasi’s Beauty Journey & MAED’s Origins

[00:31–03:20]

• Early Modeling Roots: Denise began as a Ford model, trained by legendary glam artists, which influenced her understanding of formulation and product experience.
  • “I grew up on set with some of the most incredible glam artists of our time... I learned a lot of what I know and how I formulate through those years on set.” — Denise, [00:49]
• Family Inspiration: Her grandmother, an esthetician, instilled a passion for beauty and self-care.
• Editorial/Community Beginnings: MAED started as a blog and editorial platform focused on clean living, clean beauty, and intentional motherhood, creating a supportive “soulful” online community.
• Brand Genesis: The transition from content creator to brand founder came post-motherhood, leveraging community feedback and personal experience.
  • “In 2019, I just had my son... that was the start of a very long journey to developing the ritual and the collection that you see now at Sephora.” — Denise, [02:53]

2. Navigating Beauty Trends Vs. Building Staples

[03:20–05:48]

• On Trend-Chasing: Denise resists fleeting trends and “constant newness” in favor of innovation and functional products with evergreen value.
  • “It’s less about trend and newness and more about building out core products... Can we make something innovative and new versus chasing the trend? Because as we know, trends go in and out and evergreen lasts forever.” — Denise, [04:25]
• Sephora Strategy: MAED focuses on categories only if true innovation or improvement is possible, avoiding duplicative releases.

3. Redefining the Red Lip—Formulation, Testing, and Universal Inclusivity

[05:48–10:10]

On the Challenge of Creating a Universal Red Lip

• Red Lip Personal Legacy: Denise is known for her red lip, which inspired the first MAED product.

• Pain Points: Historically, red shades often failed to flatter darker skin tones and diverse undertones.

• Formulation Philosophy:

  • Comfort is the first priority (especially with matte liquid lipsticks).
  • MAED engaged in extensive, multi-tonal testing (“every shade of skin tone, every hair and lip color”), including recruiting beauty school students versed in color theory.

• Iterative R&D: Denise rejected “formula after formula” for two years, undeterred by market pressures and the rising “lip boom.”

  • “If I have to sit on 20,000 tubes for the rest of my life, I’m going to stand by this formula. I would not budge.” — Denise, [08:02]

• Family as Testing Ground: The final product had to look good “on Grandma, mom, my cousins”—encompassing the full spectrum of Denise’s mixed family.

Host Testimonial

• Ekta: “When I first tried the product, I was very skeptical because red never looks right on me... I was just blown away. She really put thought into this.” [09:16]

4. Defining & Embodying Authentic Inclusivity

[10:10–12:56]

• Beyond Marketing: Denise denounces performative inclusivity, advocating for intentional action from formulation to accessory design.
  • “True inclusivity comes from a very intentional and genuine space... It is in our formulas, solving the problems that all people have, specifically starting with people of color... It’s genuine, it’s intentional, and it starts at the beginning and goes through the entire scope.” — Denise, [10:10]
• Product Details: Applicator size and design are customized for fuller lips, ensuring usability across all consumers—not just visual diversity in marketing.

5. Lip Care as a Neglected Skincare Category

[12:56–19:01]

• Unique Lip Physiology: Lips lack oil glands, making hydration and barrier reinforcement crucial.

  • “The lips don’t have oil glands. They cannot self produce oil to rehydrate themselves...” — Denise, [13:49]

• Clinical Formulation Focus: MAED worked to ensure immediate comfort and sustained barrier repair, rather than only short-term relief.

• Market Resistance: Early in development, Denise faced skepticism—people saw lip care as “just ChapStick,” with no need for innovation.

• Host Ekta’s Experience: Traditional lip balms often worsened Ekta’s lip condition; nothing addressed aging, barrier, or fine lines.

• Care Before Color: MAED’s message: Skincare and hydration must precede vibrant color for true beauty and performance.

  • “There was no start to finish... it was clear to me that we could interject in this space. We always start with care being the foundation.” — Denise, [19:16]

6. Cultural Power & Psychology of the Red Lip

[21:22–25:09]

• Historical & Cross-Cultural Empowerment: The red lip is a symbol of power, confidence, rebellion, and solidarity across generations and cultures (notably in Latina, Black, Indian communities).

  • “The red lip is so powerful... Especially for women, it’s been very empowering... There’s something in almost everyone’s past where they remember that woman... how all of a sudden her personality or confidence shifted.” — Denise, [22:07]

• Armor & Visibility: Red lipstick acts as a “veil” or “secret weapon”—a tangible confidence booster, especially during adversity.

• Societal Reception: Bold lips challenge social comfort, making wearers highly visible; criticism often arises from discomfort and societal control rather than vanity.

• Ekta’s Note: Cultural red lip memories and mentorship from Black women reinforced its symbolism for empowerment.

7. Sephora Partnership: Challenges and Growth

[25:56–28:43]

• Dream Realized: Having MAED in Sephora is a “dream come true”; Denise is especially proud of achieving this as a self-funded founder.
• Steep Learning Curve: Denise praises the Sephora Accelerate Program as her “MBA at Sephora”—essential for understanding retail dynamics.
  • “If anybody who’s listening has a brand and their goal is to be at Sephora, completing the program doesn’t guarantee entry... but I don’t think there’s any other way to learn what it really will take...” — Denise, [27:32]
• Evolving Customer Communication: Adapting messaging for Sephora’s wide customer base is an ongoing process.

8. Advice for Beauty Entrepreneurs

[28:43–35:49]

• Seek Help: Don’t hesitate to reach out to industry peers; most want to help.
• Do the Work (Privately): Keep your head down, build quietly, and resist the urge to announce prematurely.
  • “There is no shortcut to doing the work. If you want to create something great... you really have to put the work and do the research. Don’t cut it short.” — Denise, [30:54]
• Quality Over Speed: Denise scrapped a full year of development to perfect her product, despite industry pressures to capitalize on trends.
  • “It was a hard decision because you get nervous. You think you’re going to miss the moment, but... if you’re making something good, you’re not going to miss the moment.” — Denise, [32:11]
• The Reality of Founders’ Lives: Social media distorts the founder experience, glamorizing “overnight successes” and masking the 18-20 hour workdays, difficult decisions, and sacrifices.

Notable Quotes

• “If I have to sit on 20,000 tubes for the rest of my life, I’m going to stand by this formula.”
  — Denise Vasi, [08:02]

• “True inclusivity... is solving for those problems. It is formulating for those problems. It is testing for those individuals.”
  — Denise Vasi, [10:17]

• “Your makeup is always going to lay better if you care for your skin, including your lips. That is our approach—it’s always care before color, and we bridge self care with self expression.”
  — Denise Vasi, [20:05]

• “The red lip is so powerful... There’s something in almost everyone’s past where they remember that woman in their family putting on that red lip and how all of a sudden her personality or confidence shifted.”
  — Denise Vasi, [22:07]

Standout Moments & Timestamps

| Timestamp | Segment/Highlight | |----------------|------------------------------------------------------------------| | [00:49] | Denise’s early beauty world immersion and brand’s origins | | [04:25] | On resisting fleeting beauty trends | | [08:02] | Denise’s two-year formula testing and refusal to compromise | | [10:17] | Authentic vs. performative inclusivity in product creation | | [13:49] | Scientific need for lip barrier repair and long-term care | | [19:16] | “Care before color”—the ritual and philosophy behind MAED | | [22:07] | Impact of red lipstick as armor and empowerment across cultures | | [27:32] | Importance of Sephora Accelerate for aspiring beauty founders | | [30:54] | Importance of doing the work and combination of privacy/focus | | [32:11] | On scrapping a year of development for quality, not speed | | [35:00+] | The unglamorous, hard-working truth behind brand building |

Tone & Style

The conversation is deeply candid, warm, and insightful, blending personal anecdotes, technical detail, and honest advice. Denise and Ekta both maintain a tone of mutual respect and shared passion for empowering beauty consumers and entrepreneurs alike. There's an underpinning message of resilience, intention, and community throughout.

Takeaway

This episode highlights how meaningful product innovation in beauty—especially for products as iconic as the red lip—demands technical rigor, cultural sensitivity, and a commitment to inclusivity that reaches every part of the product experience. Denise Vasi’s journey with MAED is a masterclass in doing the work, standing by your vision, and redefining legacy categories for the modern, diverse consumer. Entrepreneurs are reminded: quality, authenticity, and caring for your consumer’s true needs always outlast trend-chasing.