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- [00:02]
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Ah, bike sputtering on me. That's not what you want on a cross country trip. Yeah, you're telling me. Looks like my journey ends here. Nah mate, you ride with Geico Motorcycle insurance and got their 247 emergency roadside service. They'll fix your bike right up. Where you headed anyways? Oh, I'm going to Chromehenge. You ever been? No, I can't say I have. It's like Stonehenge, but shiny.
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It feels good to ride with help.
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It feels good to Geico.
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Emergency roadside service is optional coverage. You're listening to a podcast right now. Driving, working out, walking the dog. If you're into podcasts, chances are you have something to say too. With RSS.com, starting your own podcast is free and easy. Upload an episode and we distribute it to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Amazon Music and more. Track your listeners, see where they're from, and start earning from ads just like this. If you've been thinking about starting a podcast, this is your sign. Start your new podcast for free today@rss.com
- [01:00]
C
now let the sea day I'll be doing. Hello, I'm Claudia. I was born and raised in Sardinia and I still live here. I'm the person behind both the Street Lake Sardinia blog and this podcast where I share practical tips to help you plan your trip to my beloved island. In the last episode, I talked about the idea that influencers may be ruining Sardinia and what role they can have in making tourists more responsible and help them travel more sustainably. Today we will be talking about a place that's dear to my heart, my mom's hometown, Serdiana. Before we start, make sure to check the episode description. That's where you'll find the link to the full blog post for this episode. On the blog I go into more detail. You'll find hotel recommendations, tours, and all the practical information you need to help plan your trip. You'll also find the link to book a one hour consultation with me. Now let's get started. When people think about southern Sardinia, they usually picture Caglieri, the beaches around Villa Simius or Kia, maybe the archaeological site of Nora. They're all fantastic places and I recommend them all the time. But today I want to introduce you to somewhere that's completely different. Serdiana isn't famous for its beaches. It doesn't have luxury resorts or glamorous marinas. Instead, it's one of the best places in Sardinia to discover our wine culture, our countryside, and the slower rhythm of everyday life. It's Also a place I know incredibly well. My mom was born in Serdiana. My grandparents lived there for most of their lives, and much of my family still lives there. Growing up, I spent countless weekends there. Family lunches, birthday celebrations, Christmas Eve, Easter. If there was a reason to get together, chances are we were in Serdiana. At the time, I didn't think much about it. It was simply where my grandparents lived. Only after living abroad for several years and traveling around to see 70 countries did I begin to appreciate how special villages like this really are. Today, when I visit, and I do it all the time, I don't just see my family's village. I see one of the best examples of rural Sardinia where agriculture still at the center of everyday life and where traditions haven't survived because they're performed for tourists. They've survived because it's simply part of the way people live. Another thing that surprises visitors is just how close Sediana is to Cagliari. It's only about 20 kilometers away, roughly 20, 25 minutes drive. In other words, you can spend the morning exploring the historic center of Cagliari and be surrounded by vineyards before lunchtime. The that makes Sardiana one of my favorite day trips from Cagliari, the capital of Sardinia. Like many places on the island, Serdiana has a very long history. People have lived here since prehistoric times, and over the centuries the area has been influenced by the Phoenicians, the Romans, the Byzantines, the Judicites, and the Aragonese. But unlike many historic towns, Serdiana never developed as a tourist destination. Instead that it remained an agricultural community. And this is precisely what makes it so interesting. Today, the vineyards surrounding the village produce some of the finest wines in southern Sardinia. And if you've listened to previous episodes, you'll know that wine is something I'm particularly passionate about. In fact, I'm studying to become a certified sommelier, not because I want to work in the industry, but because I just want to understand wines better. One thing I often tell visitors is not to stop at Canona wine when visiting Sardinia. It's one of the most famous red wines for the island for good reasons. But Sardinia has dozens of native grape varieties that are much less well known outside the island. Serdiana is one of the best places to discover them. Besides Canonao, our signature red and Vermentino are signature white. You'll also come across Monica Bovale, Nurago, Nasco, and several other local varieties that receive hardly ever the attention they deserve. And that's one of the reasons I Enjoy bringing friends to Serdiana. Many arrive expecting beaches. While there's none, they leave. Talking about wine if you're interested in wine, there are two wineries I particularly recommend. The first is Argolas, probably the best known Sardinian winery internationally. Even if you don't recognize the name, a good chance you've seen one of their bottles. If you live in Europe or North America, Argola's has done an enormous amount to promote Sardinian wines abroad while remaining firmly rooted in this part of the island. A visit usually includes a guided tour of the winery, an introduction to the local grape varieties, and of course, a taste scene paired with Sardinian products. The second winery I recommend is SP Pala. Personally, I've always had a soft spot for Pala wines, particularly Dermonica, although they produce excellent whites as well. One thing I appreciate about both wineries is that they welcome visitors. Whether you're an experienced wine enthusiast or someone who just enjoys a good glass of wine with dinner, nobody expects you to know technical tasting vocabulary. Just ask questions, be curious, taste something you've never heard of before. And that's part of the fun. Just remember to book ahead, especially between spring and early autumn, because winery visits are usually by appointments. Now, I want to specify that these two wineries are only two out of six active wineries that are present in Serdiana. And imagine that no more than 3,000 people live in Serdiana. So six wineries for such a small amount of people, it means that virtually every other person is working in the wine business in the Serdian. In this small town, one of the nicest times to visit Serdiana is during Cantine Aperte, which means open vineyards in spring, or Calici di Stelle, which is usually in August. This event celebrates Sardinian wine through tastings, food and special events. They're a wonderful opportunity to visit wineries that don't always welcome large number of visitors during the rest of the year. If your trip coincides with either event or I generally recommend adjusting your itinerary. Even if you're not a wine expert, there are fantastic introductions to one of Sardinia's oldest traditions. Once you've visited one of the wineries, however, don't rush back to Cagliari. Serdiana deserves at least a couple of hours. It's not a village where you'll find dozens of attractions or museums. That's precisely its appeal. This is a place to to wander. Notice the details. Experience everyday Sardinian life. Start in the historic center. It's very small, the streets are narrow Lined with old campedinese houses. So traditional houses built around internal courtyards that you can sometimes glimpse through open gates. Many homes still have traditional wooden doors and stone facades. And depending on the season, you'll see bougainvillea, jasmine or potted plants, spring spilling into the street. It's quiet. You won't find souvenir shops or group of tourists following umbrellas. Instead, you'll see people chatting outside the local cafe. I think there's two at most in the village. Neighbors stopping to catch up, perhaps someone cycling home with, you know, shopping in their basket. I often tell people that one of the nicest things about visiting villages like Serniana is that nothing particularly spectacular happens. And that's exactly why they're worth visiting. They give you a glimpse of everyday Sardinia. One place you absolutely shouldn't miss in Serdiana is the church of Santa Maria di Sibiola. It's just outside the village. If you've read my blog before, you'll know that I have a soft spot for Romanesque churches. And Sardinia has dozens of them, many standing in complete isolation in the countryside. And Santa Maria di Sierra Sibiola is one of my favorites. The church, dates back to the 11th century, is built from local limestone, which takes on different colors depending on the light. Early in the morning, it has a soft golden hue, while towards sunset it soon becomes warmer and richer. But what makes it really special is the setting. The church sits among vineyards and fields with almost no signs of modern development around it. And on a quiet day, you'll hear the wind, birds, and if you're lucky, the decent sound of tractors working in the field. I always recommend spending a few minutes here, not because there's a lot to do, but because it's one of those places that invites you to slow down. It's a side of Sardinia that many visitors never experience. It's also a place I really love, because literally every member of my family got married there. My parents got married there, my cousins got married there. My aunts and uncles got married there. My sister got married there. Another place that's worth visiting in Serdiana is Sustani Salillo. The name literally means the salty pond, and it's one of the natural landmarks around Serdiana. Historically, it's an area that played an important role because of its saline waters. And today it's an interesting stop if you'd like to explore a little more of the countryside beyond the village itself. It's not a major tourist attraction. That's part of its charm. Most visitors to Sardinia have never heard of it. What's special about it is that pink flamingos live there. And yes, there are pink flamingos in Cagliari Mollentargio's nature reserve and in other parts of Sardinia. But what's missing here are the crowds of tourists. There's literally nobody. You just walk to the pond and spot pink flamingos and that's it. The countryside surrounding Serdiana is beautiful throughout the year. But if I had to choose a best season to visit, I'd probably say spring or early autumn. In the spring, everything is incredibly green. Wildflowers cover the fields, the vineyards begin to wake up after winter, and temperatures are perfect for walking around. Autumn is equally beautiful. Beautiful because it's harvest season. The vines are heavy with grapes, wineries are busy, and the OH area feels alive. If you're interested in photography, these are definitely my favorite months. Summer is lovely, but keep in mind that inland Sardinia gets very hot. If you're visiting in July and August, I'd suggest exploring the village early in the morning, enjoying lunch and leaving your winery visit for the late afternoon when temperatures begin to drop. One thing that surprised visitors is how central wine is to everyday life here. Not because people drink enormous quantities of it, but. But because, as I said before, naturally wine accompanies meals and family gathering. Growing up, Sunday lunch almost always included a bottle of local wine on the table. Sometimes it came from one of the wineries, sometimes more often it came from a neighbor. Sometimes my grandpa made it, and a few times my dad and my uncle made it. In fact, many families around Serdiana still produce small quantities of wine for their own consumption. It's not something they sell sell. It's simply a tradition that's been passed down to work through generations. And the same goes for olive oil. If someone tells you this is our family's olive oil, there's a good chance they're not exaggerating. In fact, well, that happens in my family, for sure. Their family probably does have a few olive trees somewhere nearby. One thing I love about Sirdiana is that it reminds you of how closely connected food, wine and agriculture still are today. We hear expressions like farm to table everywhere. And in places like Serdiana, that's never been a trend. It's simply how people have always lived. The vegetables come from nearby fields. I know my uncle would simply walk to his vegetable garden every day to tend to his zucchini, his tomatoes, and he would bring them home, he would distribute them among the family. It just was everyday life. The olive oil here is local and the wine is produced down the road. Even the bread you eat at lunch has been baked in the morning in the village. As visitors, we sometimes overlook these details because they seem ordinary, but they're actually one of the reasons that food tastes so good here. The ingredients don't travel very far before reaching your plate, and if you're visiting Cerdiana, don't treat it like another place to tick off your itinerary. Walk without looking at Google Maps every five minutes, sit down for coffee. As I said before, visit a winery and spend a little longer than you planned. At Santa Maria di Sibiola, Seviana rewards curiosity more than speed. Now let's talk about food, because I was mentioning food after a winery visit, there's really one thing you should sit down for a proper meal after or before. One of my favorite places in the area is Agriturismo Bacucarlo, somewhere I've been going for a long time. So whenever I have friends that tell me they'd like to experience a traditional Sardinian meal, this is often a place I choose. The food isn't trying to reinvent Sardinian cuisine or make it more sophisticated. It's simply very well executed, using seasonal ingredients and recipes that have been part of the cuisine of this part of Sardina for generations now. If you've never eaten at an agri turismo in Sardina before, here's something to keep in mind. Don't expect expect to order a la carte agriturismi serve a fixed menu that changes with the season and depends on what's available from the farm or nearby producers. Don't expect a quick lunch. Lunch is the activity. You'll usually start with a long selection of antipasti, followed by fresh pasta, roasted meat, seasonal vegetables, local cheeses, dessert coffee and a small glass of myrto or another liquor. My advice? Arrive hungry and don't make dinner reservations for that evening. If you're looking for something a little different, another excellent option is Domu Domu, the restaurant at Argolas. It's a more refined dining experience, still deeply rooted in Sardinian ingredients and traditions. If you've already booked a winery visit at Argolas, it's well worth checking whether you can combine it with lunch or dinner. It's a lovely way to spend time, some several hours without feeling rushed. What you will love about eating in Sevillana is how the food reflects the area. This is the area of Campidano, which means you'll often find homemade pastas, low cooked meats, excellent Vegetables, local cheeses, outstanding olive oil, and of course, wine, because this is a Parteola, is an important part of the meal. If you're unsure what to order, ask for recommendations. They will suggest the wine. They will suggest the best dishes. It's an opportunity to try grape varieties you may have never encountered before. So if you're planning a perfect day in Sevillana, this is probably what I would do. I'd leave Calgary fairly early in the morning. Not because the drive is long, it really isn't. But because the countryside is particularly beautiful early in the day, especially in spring or autumn. I start with a coffee in the village. It doesn't get more local than that. Before wandering through the historic center, no fixed route, just walking. Then I drive out to Santa Maria di Siviola, spend a little time exploring the church and the surrounding vineyards, and head to a winery for late morning tasting. I choose whichever winery most appeals to me. You can't go wrong with Argoles. After that, let's settle for a long lunch. No checking the time, no trying to squeeze in five more attractions. And you know, it doesn't have to feel like you're wasting time. I don't think spending three hours over lunch in Sardinia is wasting time at all. Quite the opposite. It's part of the experience. And after lunch, if you still have the energy, and that's never guaranteed after an agriturismo meal in Sardinia, you could continue exploring the parteola region. One obvious stop is nearby Dolianova. Lake Cerdiana is closely associated with wine production and is home to another historic winery, as well as a beautiful Romanesque church Cathedral of San Pantaleo. The two villages complement each other very well. It's easy to visit both in the same day. Alternatively, you could simply drive through the country. This might sound like a strange suggestion, but it's actually one of my favorite things to do. The roads wind through vineyards, olive groves and small farms. They offer a completely different perspective of southern Sardinia from the one most visitors experience along the coast. People often ask me whether Sardiana is worth including on a first trip to Sardinia. And that's when I try suggest it. And I say it really depends what you're looking for. If you just have five or six days on the island that your dream holiday revolves around beaches, then places like Villasimill, Kia, the Gulf of La Madarena archipelago will probably take priority. And that's understandable. But if you're spending more time in southern Sardinia, if you already have visited the island before, Sardiana makes an Excellent addition to your itinerary. It shows a side of Sardinia that many visitors never get to experience. Not because it's hidden, but because they don't know it's there. And that's a shame, because some of my favorite days in Sardinia hunt about chasing famous beaches. They've been spent in places exactly like this. Sharing a meal, tasting local wine, enjoying the quiet rhythm of everyday life. Before we finish, I'd like to leave you with one final thought about when I decided to write a guide and record a podcast episode about this village. It wasn't because I think everyone visiting Cerdinia should automatically add it to their itinerary. Not every destination is right for every traveler. If your dream holiday is spending every day on a different beach, then Sardinia is perfect. If you're passionate about hiking, I probably send you to the mountains of Supramonte before I sent you to Serdiana. If archaeology is your thing, there are plenty of noragic and Roman ruins and ancient settlements in Sardinia. But Sardinia is also about vineyards, farms, small villages and places like Sardiana are part of this bigger picture. I noticed that people feel under pressure to fit as much as possible into their itinerary, and they asked me if they can visit three beaches, two villages and a winery all in the same day. Well, not really. One of the nicest things about a place like Sergiana is that it encourages to slow down. You don't need to rush from one attraction to the next because there isn't a checklist of famous sights waiting for you. Instead, you have the chance to enjoy a long lunch, have a conversation with a winemaker, wander through quiet spots, streets, or sit outside Santa Maria di Sibiola just enjoying the countryside. These moments may not look particularly impressive on Instagram, but they're often the ones you will remember after you've returned home. And Serdiano will always be more than a destination, you know, it's where my mother grew up, it's where my members of family live. And when I visit, I'm now thinking about content of photography. I've been buying pastries from bakeries I've known for years. I'm stopping to see relatives. Sometimes I'll visit my grandparents graves at the cemetery. So if you decide to visit Serdiana, here's my final piece of book your winery visit in advance. Reserve lunch if you're planning to visit on a weekend. Once you arrive, don't over plan the rest of the day and leave room for spontaneity. Maybe you'll discover a little place that you didn't think about. Maybe someone at the winery will recommend another producer to visit. Maybe you just feel like sitting outside Santa Maria di Siviola because it's relaxing and that's perfectly fine. And that's exactly how Seriana is meant to be experienced. Now, before we finish, don't forget to check today's episode description. It's where you'll find the link to the full blog post for this episode. You'll find more details, hotel options, tours, everything you need to plan your trip to Serdiana. You'll also find the link to book a one hour travel consultation with me now. Next week we'll be talking about whether Sardinia can really live off tourism. If you find this episode helpful, share it with anyone planning a trip to Sardinia. Feel free to leave a rating or review. And until next time, thank you for listening and goodbye.
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You're listening to a podcast right now. Driving, Working out, Walking the dog. If you're into podcasts, chances are you have something to say too. With RSS.com, starting your own podcast is free and easy. Upload an episode and we distribute it to Apple Podcasts, Spotify, Amazon Music and more. Track your listeners, see where they're from, and start earning from ads just like this. If you've been thinking about starting a podcast, this is your sign. Start your new podcast for free today@rss.com.