Loading summary
A
This is an iHeart podcast tired of.
B
Spills and stains on your sofa? Washablesofas.com has your back featuring the Annabe collection, the only designer sofa that's machine washable inside and out where designer quality meets budget friendly prices. That's right, sofas start at just $699. Enjoy a no risk experience with pet friendly stain resistant and changeable slipcovers made with performance fabrics. Experience cloud like comfort high resilience foam that's hypoallergenic and never needs fluffing. The sturdy steel frame ensures longevity and the modular pieces can be rearranged anytime. Check out washablesofas.com and get up to 60% off your Anna Bay sofa backed by a 30 day satisfaction guarantee. If you're not absolutely in love, send it back for a full refund. No return, shipping or restocking fees. Every penny back. Upgrade now@washablesofas.com Offers are subject to change.
C
And certain restrictions may App Listen to your elders, honey. You might know them from their viral videos, but now the old gays are pulling back the curtain with their new podcast Silver Linings with the Old Gays, brought to you in partnership with iHeart's Ruby Studio and Veeve Healthcare. Hosts Robert, Mick, Bill and Jesse serve their lifetime of wisdom when it comes to love, sex, community and whatever else they've got on the gay agenda. So check out Silver Linings with the Old gays on the iHeartRadio app or wherever you get your podcasts.
B
Good Morning.
D
Welcome to today.
E
From back to school to tackling your to do list, the Today show is your best start to the day. It's a new season and every morning we're here to help you take it all on as the forecast calls for football all across the country, blockbuster stars, live concerts, and so much more. Wake up to where it's all happening.
B
We're getting back to all of it.
A
And the best way to start is together.
E
Watch the Today show weekday mornings at 7am on NBC.
B
Hello divorce? Yes, this is a divorce ad about hellodivorce.com and you might be asking why you're hearing it. Even if you're happily married or single, chances are someone close to you might be thinking about or going through divorce. Help them skip expensive lawyers and unnecessary stress. Tell them to visit hellodivorce.com for clarity, savings and peace of mind. Because sometimes being a good friend means sharing the right resources. Hellodivorce.com support your friends can trust.
C
Welcome to Stuff youf Missed in History Class, a production of iHeartRadio.
A
Hello, and welcome to the podcast. I'm Tracy V. Wilson.
C
And I'm Holly Fry.
A
We got an email from listener Liz asking for an episode on the history of soap. That is something that I had on my list back when Holly and I first joined the show in 2013. Holly has thought about doing a soap episode also. It has never happened and never happened. So I was like, why not? Why not? Now that someone has actually asked for something that I thought maybe no one would find interesting, we will do it. We'll do it now. This turned out to be tricky to do the research on, because Holly's laughing. A lot of writing about soap is either really hyper specific, like the history of the soap industry in one particular city over a specific period, or it is so broad that it's hard to pull details out of. And then there are also some details that just get repeated all over the place, but they don't really add up. A lot of the books that are connected to this history are really histories of cleanliness or hygiene, which is a slightly different thing. So in parts of this episode, we're going to be talking about a bunch of things that all happened in roughly the same period of history, but not necessarily in a specific order chronologically.
C
And now you know why I never got an episode about soap turned out.
A
Yeah. When I asked you about it, you said, I think I ran into some kind of problem, and I learned through experience what the problem was. Yeah.
C
All over the world, for all of human history, and probably going back to our earliest hominid ancestors, people have found ways to try to keep themselves clean. Hygiene norms really vary from one society to another, but the existence of some kind of norm seems universal, or at least pretty close to it. People have washed or bathed in springs and ponds and rivers. They have used sand or pumice or brushes or corncobs to scour the skin. They have applied oils to their bodies and then scraped it off with a blade or some other tool. Saunas, sweat lodges, and sweat houses go back thousands of years in multiple parts of the world. A lot of these practices combine cleanliness and hygiene with some kind of spiritual or religious ritual. And some of them also help build community.
A
People have also used a lot of different plants as part of this, specifically plants that are high in saponins, which are naturally occurring molecules that foam in water. Saponins have a range of uses and effects, and some of the plants they are found in are edible, although if you eat too much saponin, that can make your Tummy hurt. High saponin plants include the genus Saponaria or the soapworts, which are native to Asia and Europe, as well as the sapinjiceae or the soapberries, which are native to tropical regions. In most of the world, multiple species of soapweed, yucca and soap bark tree are native to the Americas. Common ivy, which is native to Europe and western Asia, and Chinese honey locust, which is native to East Asia, are other examples of these plants that can produce this foamy kind of soapy substance.
C
People around the world have used these and other high saponin plants to make preparations to clean their skin and hair, to soothe and treat skin conditions and injuries, and to wash clothing and other items. These range from the simple like boiling soap berries and then using the water to wash your hair, to the complex like multi step processes involving grinding, burning, steeping and mixing with other substances. Substances. In some parts of the world, today's word for soap comes from the name for one of these traditional preparations or the plants used to make them. In others, the word for soap is just a local variant of soap or of the word for soap in another language.
A
One step of the soap making process is called saponification, and the words saponification and saponin both trace back to the Latin word for sapon soap, which was sapo. I'm just going to say one of the resources we've been using for pronunciation lookups has been down for more than a week. So I apologize if we say any of these things wrong. These plant preparations can produce a lather and they help keep things clean, but they are not exactly the same thing as soap. Soap is a substance that's formed through a chemical reaction between alkalis and fats. So if somebody added soapberries to a fat like tallow, and they mixed that with an alkali like lye, that would be considered soap. But soapberries by themselves steeped in water would not.
C
Since soap comes from the interaction between alkalis and fat, it seems reasonably likely that in the ancient past, people all around the world discovered a sort of proto soap as they cooked meat over a fire and the fat dripped into the ashes, or as they used ashes to scour pots that had been used to cook or store oils or fatty foods, but intentionally made. Soap has a somewhat narrower early history, one that's focused primarily on western Asia, northern Africa and southern Europe, basically all around the shores of the Mediterranean Sea. At the same time, tracing the details, even of this narrow history can be tricky. While there are ancient documents that have been Translated with the word soap, it's not necessarily clear whether the original word referred to actual soap or to some other substance that was being used for cleaning.
A
The earliest known written references to soap are probably found in Sumerian cuneiform tablets from southern Mesopotamia in what's now Iraq. These tablets date back about 4,500 years. A Time magazine article from 2020 points specifically to a tablet describing the use of wet ashes remove the lanolin from wool, saying that the ash would combine with the lanolin to make soap. Wet ashes are an alkali that would have helped remove the lanolin from the wool. But lanolin contains mostly waxy esters rather than the fats that are needed for saponification. So it does not seem like this process would have produced much actual soap. So many other articles just refer obliquely to Sumerian tablets as giving recipes for soap, but they don't go into detail about what the recipe actually says or which specific their tablet they are talking about. Trying to track down the details on this had me going in a bunch of very annoying circles.
C
Another early written reference to soap dates back to the Babylonians, who also lived in ancient Mesopotamia. This reference is in the form of clay cylinders with an inscription that translates to fats boiled with ashes. This suggests that the Babylonians were intentionally making soap and then storing it for later use.
A
The Ebers Papyrus has made a lot of appearances on the show. This Egyptian medical text dates back about 3,500 years, and among other things, it contains references to using mixtures of oils and alkaline salts to wash and to treat skin diseases.
C
There is an incredibly widely repeated story that the word soap comes from an ancient Roman legend about Mount Sapo. According to this purported legend, Mount Sapo was the site of animal sacrifices to the gods. Animals were slaughtered and burned at the top of the mountain. And then, according to the tale, after it rained, women washing their clothes in the Tiber river at the foot of the mountain found that their laundry got extra clean.
A
This is a fun story. On the surface, it seems like it should make some reasonable amount of sense. The ash from the burning process would have combined with the fat from the animals to make a simple soap, and then rain would have washed that into the Tiber. But Mount Sapo is not a real place, and this legend only seems to show up in articles about the history of soap. I could not find anything that pointed back to an original Roman document that references this story. And it seems like any soap that could have been created as a byproduct of burned animal sacrifices would have been really heavily diluted by the time it was washed all the way down a mountainside by the rain. And then once it was in the river, it would have been washed downstream really quickly. It does not really take that much soap to clean things. Like a lot of people put way too much detergent in their laundry, but this all just seems like kind of a stretch. Also, while a lot of words related to soap do trace back to Latin, that word made its way into Latin from elsewhere, which we will be getting to.
C
Roman author Pliny the Elder, who lived in the first century ce, gave a very different explanation for where soap came from from than this purported Roman legend. This is in a section of his natural history on the treatment of scrofula, which is a form of tuberculosis. We talked about scrofula in an episode that ran as a Saturday classic in November of 2023. Specifically, Pliny wrote about how to treat ulcerated sores from scrofula. He listed a series of unpleasant sounding treatments, many of which involved dung, vinegar, animal parts or even urine. One of the many historical uses for urine, including its being used as a cleansing agent. After all of this probably less than appealing treatment option list. Pliny wrote soap too is very useful for this purpose. An invention of the galls for giving a reddish tint to the hair. This substance is prepared from tallow and ashes. The best ashes for the purpose being those of the beech and yoke elm. There are two kinds of it, the hard soap and the liquid, both of them much used by the people of Germany, the men in particular more than the women.
A
Pliny the Elder died in the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, which also destroyed the Roman city of Pompeii. And a lot of sources claim that Pompeii had a soap factory. This soap factory is mentioned in pieces about soap about as often as that story of Mount Sapo is. There is a room in the ruins of Pompeii that has often been called the soap factory. But that moniker seems to trace back to a letter that was written in the late 18th century. There was something that had seemed kind of soap like that had been discovered in this room. But later testing showed that it was some kind of clay, like fuller's earth. Other evidence of soap has not been found at Pompeii. Like there's been a lot of cosmetics that have been found, things that are probably makeup, but not things that are confirmed to be soap. And it's possible that this space was really for doing laundry or for some kind of industrial production of something that you would need big vats for.
C
A work attributed to Greek physician galen, written roughly 100 years after the destruction of Pompeii, describes soap as being made from the tallow of oxen, goats or sheep, and a lie of ashes strengthened with quicklime. Galen describes the best soaps as coming from Germany, and the second best is coming from the Gauls.
A
So Pliny and Galen's descriptions of soap feed back into the origins of the term. As we said earlier, the Latin word for soap is sapo, and then that feeds into a lot of other words that are related to soap. But the word sapo probably had Germanic origins, and there are also some similar words in Turkic languages. So this suggests, but doesn't conclusively prove, that the Romans learned about soap from the Germanic peoples of northern Europe or the Turkic peoples of Western and Central Asia, or maybe some combination of both.
C
It gets much easier to trace the development and manufacture of soap a bit later in history, and we're going to get into that after we pause for a sponsor break.
B
Life's messy. We're talking spills, stains, pets and kids. But with Annabe, you never have to stress about messes again. @washables sofas.com Discover Anabe Sofas, the only fully machine washable sofas inside and out, starting at just $699. Made with liquid and stain resistant fabrics that means fewer stains and more peace of mind. Designed for real life, our sofas feature changeable fabric covers allowing you to refresh your style anytime. Need flexibility? Our modular design lets you rearrange your sofa effortlessly. Perfect for cozy apartments or spacious homes. Plus, they're earth friendly and built to last. That's why over 200,000 happy customers have made the switch. Upgrade your space today. Visit washablesofas.com now and bring home a sofa made for life. That's washablesofas.com offers are subject to change and certain restrictions may apply.
C
Listen to your elders, honey. You might know them from their viral videos, but now the Old Gays pull back the curtain on their brim. Brand new podcast Silver Linings with the Old Gays, brought to you in partnership with iHeart's Ruby Studio and Veeve Healthcare. With over 300 years of experience between them, hosts Robert, Mick, Bill and Jesse serve four lifetimes of wisdom when it comes to love, sex, community and whatever else they've got on the gay agenda. Listen in to these fabulous friends swap stories exploring how queer life has evolved over the decades and the silver linings they've collected. Along the way, each episode dives into hot topics, from safe sex and online dating to untangling Gen Z lingo, as well as insights on how music, art, and fashion show up in queer culture. So check out Silver Linings, a show about how pride ages like fine wine. Available on the iHeartRadio app or wherever you get your podcasts.
E
My boyfriend's professor is way too friendly, and now I'm seriously suspicious. Oh, wait a minute, Sam. Maybe her boyfriend's just looking for extra credit. Well, Dakota, it's back to school week on the OK Storytime podcast, so we'll find out soon. This person writes, my boyfriend has been hanging out with his young professor a lot. He doesn't think it's a problem, but I don't trust her. Now he's insisting we get to know each other, but I just want her gone.
A
Now hold up.
E
Isn't that against school policy? That sounds totally inappropriate. Well, according to this person, this is her boyfriend's former professor, and they're the same age. Tends even more likely that they're cheating. He insists there's nothing between them. I mean, do you believe him? Well, he's certainly trying to get this person to believe him because he now wants them both to meet. So do we find out if this person's boyfriend really cheated with his professor or not? To hear the explosive finale, listen to the OK Storytime podcast on the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts.
D
Hi, I'm Jenica Lopez, and in the new season of the Overcomer podcast, I'm taking you on an exciting journey of self reflection. Am I ready to enter this new part of my life? Like, am I ready to be in a relationship? Am I ready to have kids and to really just devote myself and my time? I wanted to be successful on my own, not just because of who my mom is. Like, I felt like I needed to be better or work twice as hard as she did. Join me for conversations about healing and growth. Life is freaking hard, and growth doesn't happen in comfort. It happens in motion, even when you're hurting. All from one of my favorite spaces, the kitchen. Honestly, these are gonna come out so freaking amazing. Be a part of my new chapter and listen to the new season of the Overcome for podcast as part of the Michael Tura Podcast Network on the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts or wherever you get your podcast.
A
Soap making started to become a more established craft in parts of the world in the 7th and 8th centuries. And at that point it does get easier to trace its history. Although this is a section of the episode that's not completely chronological in what we're talking about, stuff is happening at some points roughly the same time, sometimes in sequence, but generally all in the same period of history. Before we get to that, though, we are going to talk a little bit about how soap works very quickly, because that is connected to how soap making evolved as a trade.
C
Soap is a type of surfactant, or surface active agent, which lowers the surface tension of water. Surfactant molecules have two parts. One is hydrophobic, meaning it repels water, and the other is hydrophilic, meaning that it's attracted to water. Sometimes the hydrophobic end is described as lipophilic, or attracted to lipids. So in soapy water, the lipophilic end of the surfact molecule attracts fats and oils and other lipids, while the hydrophilic end keeps it suspended in the water. So the surfactant and the lipids it's attracted to can be washed away. Actions like agitation and scrubbing help this process.
A
As we said earlier, soap forms when an alkali like lye interacts with a fat like tallow. And this reaction is called saponification. It produces a fatty acid, salt, that being the soap and glycerin. Tallow is rendered animal fat, and early soaps made with it probably didn't smell great. Tallow was also used for other purposes, including cooking and candle making. And as people figured out how to use it to make soap, a lot of times those and other applications were seen as a higher priority than soap was.
C
But Starting in the 7th and 8th centuries, Arab soap makers started using quicklime rather than lye, which produced a harder soap. And these harder soaps started to be made in places that also had an abundance of another fat. That fat was olive oil. Over the centuries, soap making centers were established all around the Mediterranean, including Aleppo in Syria, Marseille in France, Savona in Italy, and Castile in Spain.
A
All names that are still associated with soap. While these soaps are all made from olive oil, they all have their own distinctions, including the addition of laurel oil, or gar, in Aleppo, and the addition of almond oil in Savona. By the 10th century, the city of Nablus in Palestine was becoming known for its Nabulsi soap, which is also made from olive oil. At some point, people in Morocco started making a black soap from olive oil, with the soap getting that black color from macerated olives. Also, although olive oil soaps became particularly widespread, not all soaps were being made from olive oil. Another black soap developed by the Yoruba people in what's now Nigeria, is made from shea butter, also pronounced she butter, and sometimes that includes palm oil as well.
C
At first, these soaps were mostly made by families or members of the community for their own use, and they were and continue to be culturally important in a lot of places. For example, Nabulsi and Aleppo soaps both continue to be made through traditional methods today, although sometimes on a much larger scale than they were in earlier centuries. In 2024, the making of Aleppo Gar soap in Syria and Nabulsi soap in Palestine were Both inscribed on UNESCO's Representative List of the intangible cultural heritage of humanity.
A
Early soap formulations tended to have a fair amount of alkali left behind in the finished product, and a lot of times that made them too harsh to use on human skin, especially on a regular basis. It might be something you would use for a specific medical purpose, but like not for day to day washing and bathing. So during the medieval period, when this is the case, soaps were more often used for things like laundry or cleaning surfaces. And they had other uses as well. For example, the collection of medieval manuscripts known as the Mape Clavicula, which is sometimes translated as the little key to everything, includes numerous recipes and instructions that incorporate soap for things that aren't cleaning. This includes making a rouen green dye, which involved smearing pure copper with the best soap, making azure dye, which involved violet flowers and soap, and making a gold solder which required copper oxide olive oil soap and chalcothar, which is an iron oxide.
C
The Mape Clavicula also includes a process for making soap. Burn some good logs and spread the ashes over a fine wickerwork or a thin mesh strong sieve. Pour hot water over the ashes so it drips through the wickerwork or the sieve. What comes out on the other side is lye. Repeat this process, pouring the lye through the ashes and collecting it again until it's very strong. Boil it until it starts to thicken and then add oil or tallow and add lime if desired. Allow this mixture to cool and pour off any liquid after the soap solids coagulate. According to this recipe, you can take this poured off liquid and add salt to produce aphronitrum, which is used in soldering.
A
Also, during the medieval period, Muslim chemists were working on formulations for soap that would be gentle enough for regular use on the human body. The ritual washing that Muslims perform before prayer typically involves only water or something like Clean sand if there's no water available. And in most cases, soap is used for this only when it is needed. But cleanliness is also one of the core teachings of Islam. Philosopher and alchemist Abu Bakr Muhammad IBN Zakariah al Razi, also called Razes, lived during this period that is known today as the Islamic golden age. And he developed recipes for gentle, pleasant smelling soaps and the olive oil that was needed to make it in the 10th century.
C
By that point, guild systems had started to develop in the Byzantine empire and in northern and western Europe, including soap making guilds. And in much of Europe, two modes of soap making evolved. Women were often making the soap that their household would use, often in a big batch, once a year, either after the harvest and processing of whatever plant the oil came from, or after the period of slaughter, so that they would have the necessary animal fat. And guilds produced soap for industrial use or for use as a trade good. Guilds often had a monopoly on any soap that was being sold. And soap making guilds tended to be closely associated with the guilds that could provide them with the tallow oil and lye or other alkali that they needed to do it. This also meant that soap making became interconnected with the economies of the places where these guilds operated.
A
Yeah, a lot of times it was not just soap, it was soap, and also candles and also butchers, and also, like all of them, interconnected together into one big system. By the 16th century, soap making was well established in northern and western Africa and in much of Europe and Asia, including soap for personal hygiene, also called toilet soaps, and soaps for household cleaning, and an assortment of industrial uses. People in various parts of the world were also making soaps out of other ingredients, including palm oil, cottonseed oil, canola oil, and whale blubber, along with using an assortment of fragrances and dyes in the soap.
C
But even as the soap making industry expanded and there were more soaps meant for use on people's bodies, in Europe in particular, the practice of bathing started to go into decline. And there were a lot of reasons for this. A lot of people did not have a room for bathing in their home, so they used public bathhouses instead. And these bathhouses started to be associated with the spread of disease, including syphilis. Europe saw its first major syphilis outbreak at the end of the 15th century. People probably were not getting syphilis from bathwater, but by today's standards, these bathhouses were not particularly sanitary. Various writers on health and medicine also started to speculate that soaking in bathwater weakened people's bodies. Some of this was also just connected to bigotry and religious persecution. As Christian communities wanted to distance themselves from the ritual bathing and hygiene practices of Judaism and Islam, Christians in Europe became more focused on clean clothes than on washing their bodies, especially when they visibly appeared clean.
A
This continued for a couple hundred years, and it makes it a little ironic that European influence became a huge factor in the spread of soap and bathing culture a few centuries later, which we will get to after a sponsor break.
B
Tired of spills and stains on your sofa? WashablesOfAs.com has your back Featuring the Annabe Collection, the only designer sofa that's machine washable inside and out. Where designer quality meets budget friendly prices. That's right, sofas start at just $699. Enjoy a no risk experience with pet friendly stain resistant and changeable slipcovers made with performance fabrics. Experience cloud like comfort with high resilience foam that's hypoallergenic and never needs fluffing. The sturdy steel frame ensures longevity and the modular pieces can be rearranged anytime. Check out washablesofas.com and get up to 60% off your Anna Bay sofa backed by a 30 day satisfaction guarantee. If you're not at Absolutely in Love, send it back for a full refund. No return shipping or restocking fees. Every penny back. Upgrade now@washablesofas.com Offers are subject to change and certain restrictions may apply.
C
Listen to your elders, honey. You might know them from their viral videos, but now the old Gays pull back the curtain on their brand new podcast Silver Linings with the Old Gays, brought to you in partnership with iHeart's Ruby Studio and Veeve Healthcare. With over 300 years of experience between them, hosts Robert, Mick, Bill and Jesse serve four lifetimes of wisdom when it comes to love, sex, community and whatever else they've got on the gay agenda. Listen in to these fabulous friends swap stories exploring how queer life has evolved over the decades and the silver linings they've collected along the way. Each episode dives into hot topics from safe sex and online dating to untangling Gen Z lingo, as well as insights on how music, art and fashion show up in queer culture. So check out Silver Linings, a show about how pride ages like fine wine, available on the iHeartRadio app or wherever you get your podcasts.
E
My boyfriend's professor is way too friendly and now I'm seriously suspicious. Oh wait a minute, Sam. Maybe her boyfriend's just Looking for extra credit. Well, Dakota, it's back to school week on the okay Storytime podcast, so we'll find out soon. This person writes, my boyfriend has been hanging out with his young professor a lot. He doesn't think it's a problem, but I don't trust her. Now he's insisting we get to know each other, but I just want her gone. Now hold up. Isn't that against school policy? That sounds totally inappropriate. Well, according to this person, this is her boyfriend's former professor, and they're the same age. Then it's even more likely that they're cheating. He insists there's nothing between them. I mean, do you believe him? Well, he's certainly trying to get this person to believe him because he now wants them both to meet. So do we find out if this person's boyfriend really cheated with his professor or not? To hear the explosive finale, listen to the OK Storytime podcast on the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts.
D
Hi, I'm Jenica Lopez, and in the new season of the Overcomer podcast, I'm taking you on an exciting journey of self reflection. Am I ready to enter this new part of my life? Like, am I ready to be in a relationship? Am I ready to have kids and to really just devote myself and my time? I wanted to be successful on my own, not just because of who my mom is. Like, I felt like I needed to be better or work twice as hard as she did. Join me for conversations about healing and growth. Life is freaking hard, and growth doesn't happen in comfort. It happens in motion, even when you're hurting. All from one of my favorite spaces, the kitchen. Honestly, these are going to come out so freaking amazing. Be a part of my new chapter and listen to the new season of the Over Comfort podcast as part of the Michael Tura Podcast Network on the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcast.
A
As we've said, by the 18th century, soap making was well established as an industry in parts of Europe, Asia, and Africa. European colonists had also introduced soaps to the Americas, where it quickly grew into an industry there. But it could be difficult to make soap at a really large scale in a lot of places. The limiting factor was the alkali needed to start the saponification process. Making lye from ashes and water was time consuming, and it required a lot of ash. Other sources of alkali, like limestone, were also in demand for other purposes, like making plaster and mortar.
C
Then in 1775, the French Academy of Science offered a cash prize for the development of a process to manufacture sodium carbonate, also called washing soda or soda ash. French surgeon Nicolas Leblanc created an inexpensive method for doing this 15 years later. It involved sodium chloride, or common table salt, along with sulfuric acid and limestone. And this development affected so many industries. In addition to its use in saponification, soda ash was used in making things like paper, glass, and porcelain. Belgian scientist Ernest Solvay later built on LeBlanc's discoveries to make a commercially viable process for making soda ash at scale.
A
People also started to figure out exactly what was going on during the process of saponification, beyond just turning fat and alkali into soap. French chemist and soap maker Michel Eugene Chervot started studying soaps and the fats that they were made from in the 18 teens. He was building on the work of earlier scientists, including French apothecary Claude Joseph Geoffroy, who had discovered that saponified fat was soluble in alcohol, while the fat that the soap had originally been made from was not. Chevreau figured out that the saponification process split a fat into two components. Those were the organic acid salt that we call soap and glycerin. From there, he started to isolate and name individual fatty acids and to study how they behaved when they were used to make both soap and candles. The isolation of glycerin from soap making also made it possible for Alfred Nobel to refine nitroglycerin into a commercial explosive that was dynamite in 1867.
C
The isolation of different fatty acids and the ability to make inexpensive soda ash made it easier to make soaps at scale and to make a more consistent end product. Advances in transportation, including steamships and railroads, also made it possible to transport large amounts of raw materials to places that did not have an abundant supply of olive oil or shea butter or some other ingredient. This wasn't completely New England had an established soap industry by the 13th century, including in Bristol, Coventry, and London, with soaps made from tallow as well as imported olive oil. But steamships and railroads made it much easier to move raw materials and finished products.
A
All of that progress or development combined with industrial techniques that had been in progress since the 18th century, including the discovery of steam power and a renewed focus on cleanliness and personal hygiene in Europe and North America. That included the germ theory of disease becoming more widely known and accepted. And all of that came together to turn soap into an enormous business. Most of these commercially made soaps were sold in bar form, but the first liquid soaps hit the market in the mid 19th century, and there were powdered and flaked versions by the early 20th century.
C
The soap industry that evolved in the 19th century included a whole lot of names that are still around today. Many of them got their start producing both soap and candles, or by making candles before moving into soap. Soap and candle maker William Colgate established his company in New York in 1807. Three decades later, Cincinnati candlemaker William Proctor formed a partnership with Irish soap maker James Gamble. British brothers William and James Lever established a business to make soaps from vegetable oils. In 1885, B.J. johnson created a soap made of palm and olive oils, calling it Palmolive in 1898. Colgate and Palmolive merged in 1928, and a year later, Lever merged with Margarine Uni NV, which had formed through the merger of two Dutch margarine manufacturers and that formed Unilever.
A
Back at the beginning of the show, we talked about how peoples and cultures all over the world, for essentially all of human history, have had ways to to clean their bodies and their clothes and their environment, and have had various norms for cleanliness and hygiene. But as the soap industry industrialized and soap became widely available as a consumer product, and as social reformers focused on hygiene and cleanliness, all kinds of people started to think of soap as the only acceptable way to be clean. That included politicians, church leaders, social workers, missionaries, and soap marketers. Soap ads equated cleanliness with purity and wholesomeness, especially if that cleanliness came through the use of Soap. In the 1880s, British firm Pears Soap, which would later be acquired by Unilever, quoted the Rev. Henry Ward Beecher in its advertisements. If cleanliness is next to godliness, soap must be considered a means of grace, and a clergyman who recommends moral things should be willing to recommend soap.
C
Soap makers also equated soap with civilization and whiteness. For soaps like ivory, this tied the color of the soap itself to the idea that it was 99.44% pure. As big soap manufacturers in the US and Europe started selling their products in places like the Pacific Islands and Africa, they ran advertisements rooted in the idea that soap would bring civilization to these places. Ads like these ran within the US as well, framing soap as civilizing indigenous communities and as washing the color from black people's skin as though it would be preferable for their skin to be white, and as though using this soap would help them assimilate to white society.
A
Since soaps were often marketed to women in women's magazines, this was also tied to ideas of femininity and womanhood, Especially white women's purity. There are really whole books about this kind of stuff, including things like the general use of indigenous imagery and advertising and the use of caricatures of black people to sell soap and other products. This is way more than we can cover every aspect of here.
C
This also went beyond advertising. 19th century German scientist Justus von Liebig claimed that soap consumption Was an indicator of a nation's wealth and civilization. Teachers at mission schools told indigenous children around the world that they were dirty if they didn't use soap. An added layer to this was that some of the soaps they were advocating Were made with culturally important oils extracted from these same communities to be sold to people living elsewhere. This 19th century globalization of soap and the soap industry circles back to something we said at the beginning of the show about the word for soap in different parts of the world and how in some places it's derived from the traditional preparations that soap was replacing.
A
Into the 20th century, new discoveries continued to affect the way soaps could be made, With a lot of those discoveries now coming from scientists who worked for major soap manufacturers. For example, Procter and Gamble patented processes for hydrogenating oils in 1909. Today, people probably think of hydrogenated oils in the context of food, but hydrogenation could help harden the fats that were used to make soap. There were multiple patents related to hydrogenation in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. And so this led to a whole series of legal battles over patents and licensing rights when it came to hydrogenation in soap making.
C
When World War I started in 1916, many of the raw materials used to make soap Were needed for other wartime applications. This led to chemists developing synthetic surfactants as a replacement. The first synthetic surfactant predated this. It was sulfonated castor oil, known as red turkey oil, and that had been discovered in 1851. But the first intentionally developed synthetic surfactants Are usually credited to German scientist Fritz Gunther, who worked for BASF during World War I. Synthetically made surfactants became known as detergents. And today, a lot of things that people call soap are actually detergents.
A
Yeah, they're still surfactants, they're still cleaning things, but they're not that technical definition of soap. Tangentially related, the first soap operas made their debuts in the 1930s. Those, of course, are serialized dramas, Starting on the radio and then moving to television, with soap companies as their major sponsors. That is another entirely different subject.
C
Into the 20th century, soap manufacturers started developing more specialty products with surfactants meant to work on specific types of soil or to be used for specific tasks. This includes the first laundry and dishwasher detergents in the 1940s and 1950s, which produce less foam so they don't cause the machines to overload with suds. The first household liquid soap meant specifically for hand washing was soft soap, and that debuted in 1980. The 20th century also saw an assortment of additives to different soap and detergent products like like optical brighteners which make whites look whiter in the laundry, or enzymes meant to break down specific types of stains or oils.
A
So as we mentioned, there are connections between the globalization of soap and racism, colonization and oppression. At the same time, washing your hands with soap and water really does help reduce the spread of numerous diseases, so a lack of access to soap and clean water can have a serious and damaging effect on public health. Research at places like refugee camps and communities that are facing widespread poverty have shown a measurable reduction in certain illnesses, especially diarrheal illnesses, when people have access to soap and water. These illnesses can be fatal in young children, elderly people, and people who have other illnesses or who are already facing malnutrition, dehydration. So this connection between soap availability and disease reduction has led to programs to distribute soaps in places that need it, and to do things like recycle partially used hotel soaps to distribute to poorer parts of the world. So that's some stuff about soap, sometimes chronologically and sometimes not. I have listener mail about pens.
C
Love it.
A
From Ralph Ralph wrote Holly and Tracy. I really enjoyed your recent episode on the ballpoint pen. I also am very particular about the pens I use, but for a slightly different reason. I'm left handed, so I have problems with the ink in most pens smearing as I draw my left hand across it. However, I have found that the Pilot V ball pens with green ink don't smear. The red, black and blue ones all smear, but for some reason the green ones don't. So that is my go to pen of choice and has been for several years now. Plus, green is one of my favorite colors, which is a bonus. In fact, people in my office know that if something is written in green ink, it's mine. I love your show and the wide variety of topics you cover. I've been listening since the beginning of the pandemic and usually listen to your episodes. While I'm out cycling along our local bike trail along the river, I'm going to pause and say that sounds lovely I have also attached my pet tax photos of my cat's Madison on the floor and Savannah on the sink. These photos were taken on their 17th birthday on April 4 this year. Thanks again for all you do Ralph. We do indeed have a kitty cat with two front feet in the sink, two back feet on the edge of the counter and then this kitty cat's sibling with very, very similar face and coloring. They could almost be twins. I mean like identical twins, not just cats born together in the same litter. The cat that is on the floor named Madison looks very startled. They are both. They are both tabby cats with little white faces like just little white right around their mouths and noses.
C
Happy Birthday Madison in Savannah just months late.
A
Yeah, this. Yeah, this is from July when their birthday was April. The birthday happened. The email is from July. So thanks so much Ralph. I just. I'm technically a right handed person. I have always had questions about whether I ought to have learned to write with my left hand. I did not understand what the teacher meant when they said put it in the hand that it feels the most comfortable in. I was like this feels bad in both my hands. What are you talking about? But my spouse is a lefty and so I have seen his struggles with the world of things that are built for right handed people. Yep.
C
Also married to a lefty.
A
Yeah. So thank you for this email. If you'd like to send us a note about this or any other podcast, we are at historypodcastheartradio.com and you can subscribe to our show on the iHeartRadio app or wherever else you like to get your podcast. Stuff youf Missed in History Class is a production of iHeartRadio. For more podcasts from iHeartRadio, visit the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts or wherever you listen to your favorite shows.
B
Time for a sofa upgrade. Visit washablesofas.com and discover Annabe where designer style meets meets budget friendly prices with sofas starting at $699. Annabe brings you the ultimate in furniture innovation with a modular design that allows you to rearrange your space effortlessly. Perfect for both small and large spaces, Anibe is the only machine washable sofa inside and out. Say goodbye to stains and messes with liquid and stain resistant fabrics that make cleaning easy. Liquid simply slides right off. Designed for custom comfort, our high resilience foam lets you choose between a sink in feel or a supportive memory foam blend. Plus our pet friendly stain resistant fabrics ensure your sofa stays beautiful for years. Don't compromise quality for price. Visit washablesofas.com to upgrade your living space today with no risk returns and a 30 day money back guarantee. Get up to 60% off plus free shipping and free returns. Shop now at washablesofas.com Offers are subject to change and certain restrictions may apply.
A
For years everyone thought Verizon had the best network because they did. But now the best mobile network in the US is T Mobile. T Mobile's network has the most advanced 5G with more towers and their signal reaches further than ever. So you can text an insta talk and say, you won't believe where I am. CT Mobile has the best mobile network in the US based on analysis by Ookla of speed test intelligence data 1H2025CT mobile.com network in sitcoms, when someone has.
C
A problem, they just blurt it out and move on. Well, I lost my job and my parakeet is missing.
A
How was your day?
C
But the real world is different. Managing life's challenges can be overwhelming. So what do we do? We get support. The Huntsman Mental Health Institute and the Ad Council have mental health resources available for you at loveyourmindtoday.org that's loveyourmindtoday.org See how much further you can go when you take care of your mental health.
A
Culture Eats Strategy for Breakfast right?
C
On a recent episode of Culture Raises Us, I was joined by Valisha Butterfield, media founder, political strategist and tech powerhouse for a powerful conversation on storytelling impact and the intersections of culture and leadership.
A
I am a free black woman.
C
From the Obama White House to Google to the Grammys, Felicia's Journey is a masterclass in shifting culture and using your voice to spark change. Listen to Culture Raises us on the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you get your podcasts.
A
This is an iHeart podcast.
Episode: A History of Soap
Hosts: Holly Frey & Tracy V. Wilson
Date: September 8, 2025
In this episode, Holly and Tracy take on a listener request to delve into the history of soap. What seems like a straightforward topic rapidly proves to be layered and complex, intersecting with traditions of hygiene, language, chemistry, culture, colonization, and even racism. The hosts move from ancient cleansers and the chemistry of saponification, through the rise of soap making as both a craft and an industry, to its entanglement with colonialism and advertising in the modern era.
“A lot of writing about soap is either really hyper-specific, like the history of the soap industry in one particular city over a specific period, or it is so broad that it's hard to pull details out of.”
—Tracy (03:11)
“Soap is a substance that's formed through a chemical reaction between alkalis and fats. So if somebody added soapberries to a fat like tallow, and they mixed that with an alkali like lye, that would be considered soap. But soapberries by themselves steeped in water would not.”
—Tracy (07:30)
Sumerians & Babylonians:
Egypt:
Roman & Gallic Soaps:
The legend of Mount Sapo (“soap mountain”): Dispelled as a myth—no such place in real Roman geography. ([11:01–12:41])
Pliny the Elder documents soap's use for coloring hair and treating skin, noting its origins with the Gauls and Germans.
“Soap too is very useful for this purpose. An invention of the Galls...”
—Pliny, paraphrased by Holly (12:42)
Pompeii “soap factory” is another oft-repeated myth tied to an 18th-century misinterpretation.
Galen:
Medieval & Early Modern Craft
Soap making established in the 7th–8th centuries in Arab regions, spurring hard, olive-oil based soaps (Aleppo, Marseille, Savona, Castile, Nablus).
Soap guilds arise; production for both home and trade, often entwined with other trades (tallow, candles, butcheries).
Recipe read aloud from medieval Mape Clavicula gives insight into household production methods. ([25:10])
“Burn some good logs and spread the ashes… What comes out on the other side is lye… add oil or tallow and add lime if desired...”
—Mape Clavicula, paraphrased by Tracy (25:10–25:54)
Islamic Golden Age
Shift in Usage
Soapmaking grows in scale; bottleneck is alkali. French chemists (Leblanc, Solvay) develop large-scale methods for making soda ash, crucial for industrial saponification.
French scientist Michel Eugène Chevreul uncovers the chemistry—soap forms when fats split into fatty acid salts (soap) and glycerin.
Industrial transport (steamships/railways) enables mass production and distribution.
Famous Brands: ([37:58])
As soap production scales up, it’s tied deeply to notions of “civilization” and “whiteness.”
Advertisements portray cleanliness (via soap) as next to Godliness; cleanliness is coded as white, European, and civilized.
“If cleanliness is next to godliness, soap must be considered a means of grace, and a clergyman who recommends moral things should be willing to recommend soap.”
—Pears Soap ad quoting Rev. Henry Ward Beecher (39:38)
Ivory soap’s “99.44% pure” becomes marketing legend tied to whiteness.
Ads within and without Europe and the U.S. often depict soap as a tool to “civilize” indigenous people—sometimes literally showing Black people having their skin “washed white.”
The soap industry exploits natural resources and labor from colonized regions, even as it demonizes local traditions and appearances.
Global Reach and Harmful Legacies
“Teachers at mission schools told indigenous children around the world that they were dirty if they didn’t use soap... an added layer was that some of the soaps they were advocating were made with culturally important oils extracted from these same communities.”
—Holly (41:25)
Procter & Gamble and others develop processes to hydrogenate oils, leading to harder soaps and later legal battles over patents.
World War I spurs the development of synthetic surfactants (“detergents”).
By the late 20th century, "soap" often refers to detergents rather than true saponified fatty acids.
Specialty Products:
The Soap Opera
Despite the legacies of colonization, access to soap and water has a proven, measurable effect on reducing infectious disease, especially diarrheal illnesses.
Programs now exist to distribute soap to underserved communities and recycle hotel soap for those in need.
“Washing your hands with soap and water really does help reduce the spread of numerous diseases, so a lack of access to soap and clean water can have a serious and damaging effect on public health.”
—Tracy (44:52)
Holly and Tracy’s exploration reveals soap’s history is about far more than cleanliness: it’s about chemistry, myth, trade, colonialism, advertising, and social values. The story of soap touches on some of history’s messiest intersections—industrialization, imperialism, and public health—while never losing sight of its scientific, cultural, and everyday importance.
Note: Advertisement and non-content sections have been omitted as per instructions.