Stuff You Missed in History Class: Paper Sewing Patterns, Part 2

Release Date: July 16, 2025 | Hosts: Holly Fry & Tracy B. Wilson | Produced by iHeartPodcasts

Introduction

In the second installment of their deep dive into the history of paper sewing patterns, Holly Fry and Tracy B. Wilson continue to explore the evolution and impact of this essential aspect of home sewing. Building upon the foundation laid in Part 1, the hosts delve into the significant contributions of Ellen Curtis Demarest and Ebenezer Butterick, as well as the development of the "Big Four" pattern companies: Butterick, McCall's, Vogue, and Simplicity.

Pioneers of Pattern Printing: Ellen Curtis Demarest and Ebenezer Butterick

Ellen Curtis Demarest's Vision and Innovations

Ellen Curtis Demarest, born on November 15, 1824, in Schuylerville, New York, initially established herself as a milliner before venturing into the world of pattern printing. She, along with her husband William Demarest, sought to fill a gap in the home sewing market by offering mass-produced, standardized patterns available in multiple sizes. Holly highlights, “Ellen’s entree into pattern printing is often described as her envisioning a product that could fill the gap in the home sewing market” (04:07).

The Demarest Emporium of Fashions

In 1860, Ellen and William launched the Madame Demorest Emporium of Fashions on Broadway, Manhattan. Their patterns were not only functional but also artistic, printed on colored paper and accompanied by trims for display. They expanded their brand by publishing Madame Demarest's Mirror of Fashions, a periodical that combined fashion trends with full-sized, detachable patterns (06:44). This magazine served as both a marketing tool and a source of style inspiration, significantly boosting their brand's presence.

Ebenezer Butterick's Contributions

Ebenezer Butterick, born on May 29, 1826, in Sterling, Massachusetts, transitioned from a mediocre tailor to a pivotal figure in the pattern industry. In 1863, Butterick began offering standardized tissue paper patterns in multiple sizes and established a factory in Fitchburg, Massachusetts, to mass-produce them. Unlike the Demarests, Butterick patented his patterns, offering a competitive edge that the Demarests lacked (17:40).

The Rise of the Big Four Pattern Companies

McCall's Patterns

James McCall, a Scottish-born tailor, entered the pattern business in New York in 1869. By 1919, McCall's revolutionized the industry by introducing patterns with seam allowances and detailed stitching instructions, enhancing their usability for home sewists. Despite sparse historical records, McCall's legacy lives on as his company evolved to meet the changing needs of the market (23:24).

Vogue Patterns

Vogue Patterns began in 1893 as a mail-order service linked to Vogue magazine. By 1899, it became a standalone division, offering designer patterns through department stores and licensing designs from renowned European designers. This collaboration allowed women to create high-fashion garments at home, a practice that continues to this day (24:03).

Simplicity Patterns

Founded in 1927 by Joseph M. Shapiro, Simplicity Patterns aimed to make sewing accessible and affordable. Starting with patterns priced at 15 cents, Simplicity quickly became popular, especially during the Great Depression and World War II, when economical sewing was essential. Caroline Hutchins Shapiro, Joseph’s wife, played a crucial role in education and outreach, integrating Simplicity into home economics curricula and fostering a new generation of sewists (30:21).

Market Dynamics and Company Trajectories

Demarest vs. Butterick

By 1876, Demarest's company peaked with 3 million pattern sales, but growth stagnated due to over-diversification and lack of pattern protection. Conversely, Butterick continued to expand, establishing the Butterick Publishing Company in 1881 and maintaining a strong market presence through innovation and strategic manufacturing control (20:30).

Consolidation and Modern Challenges

By the early 2000s, the pattern industry saw significant consolidation. In 2001, Butterick and McCall's merged, followed by acquisitions by CSS Industries and later IG Design Group. These mergers raised concerns about market monopolization and reduced competition, leading to the eventual liquidation filings of IG Design Group in 2023. The future of major pattern companies remains uncertain, posing challenges for smaller businesses reliant on large-scale pattern printing (38:01-40:54).

Listener Interaction and Community Engagement

Towards the end of the episode, Holly and Tracy engage with a listener named Ed, who shares his appreciation for a previous episode on Edwin Howard Armstrong and discusses his affection for the podcast. They encourage further listener interaction and contributions, fostering a sense of community among sewing enthusiasts and history buffs alike (41:02-46:20).

Notable Quotes

• Holly Fry on Ellen Demarest's Vision:
  “Ellen’s entree into pattern printing is often described as her envisioning a product that could fill the gap in the home sewing market.” (04:07)

• Tracy Wilson on Demarest's Magazine:
  “The magazine, of course, touted their patterns on the first page in a huge ad.” (07:22)

• Ellen Demarest on Women's Workforce:
  “...women are expected to raise children and that it's one of the reasons women weren't often seen in careers.” (10:57)

• Margaret Walsh on Pattern Democratization:
  “...mass production of paper patterns, American women and their European counterparts were able to participate in a new social experience of making stylish clothes at will.” (19:39)

• Joseph Shapiro on Simplicity's Mission:
  “What's the tendency of the American people in everything and architecture and eating and living? I asked myself, it's Simplicity.” (30:21)

Conclusion

In "Paper Sewing Patterns, Part 2," Holly and Tracy provide a comprehensive overview of the pivotal figures and companies that shaped the paper sewing pattern industry. From Ellen Demarest's innovative vision to Ebenezer Butterick's business acumen, and the rise of the Big Four pattern companies, the episode underscores the profound impact these developments had on home sewing and fashion democratization. The episode also touches on modern challenges faced by the industry, reflecting on the legacy and future of paper sewing patterns.

Listen to the full episode on the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts, or your preferred podcast platform.