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Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Hi everybody, it is on our Covid timeline, 06-18-2020 and I am here to introduce the episode on the Manhattan Grid. I loved loved this episode. I think as most people know by now, I in particular am pretty obsessed with not just New York like I love New York as a town, but the inner workings of New York and the garbage collection and the mail delivery and building that city up from the ground up, which is what this episode relates to is how they laid out that Manhattan grid. And here's one thing I remember from it and here's a fun tip. If you're traveling to New York, they use spikes in the ground, I think iron spikes to map out that grid and you'll learn that in this episode to follow, you know, so they knew where the streets and the street corners would meet up in that big rectangle. And to this day, you can still find some of those. The only place I know about them. I'm not sure if they're on the streets anymore at all. It seems highly unlikely. But I know you can find them for a fact in Central park, here and there in the rocks, those big giant boulders there. Because I learned about these. And when I was in New York, sometime between June 18, 2020, when we released this, and now I can't remember. I feel like it's a few years ago, I saw one of those spikes, and I think I talked about that on a later episode, but it thrilled
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Charles W. Chuck Bryant
And I geeked out and told everybody I was with what that was and what it represented. And it was a real thrill for me. No lie, just a spike in the. In the rock. Thought it was super cool. So check this episode out on the Manhattan Grid.
Podcast Announcer
Welcome to Stuff youf Should Know, a production of iHeartradio.
Josh Clark
Hey, and welcome to the podcast. I'm Josh Clark, and there's Charles W. Chuck Bryant. And this is stuff you should know, another in our endless Annals of New York City edition.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
That's right. This is pretty interesting episode, I think. And my favorite part about it, this was Dave Ruse, one of our writers, helped put this together. And Dave is clearly annoyed about this whole thing. And I think it's hysterical how many times he. He gets annoyed by the laziness of the commission.
Josh Clark
I have to say, I agreed with Dave, too. I was annoyed by it as well. I think it's always annoying when you see somebody have a great opportunity and just pee it away. You know what I mean?
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah. And we should also point out Dave got a lot of his information from a really wonderful book called City on a How New York Became New York by Gerald Keppel.
Josh Clark
Not Gerald McCraney. Different Gerald.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Right. Or is it Copple? I think it's Keppel. If it's K O E. That's what
Josh Clark
I was going with, was Keppel.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah. I'm gonna get this book, though. This is right up my alley, because, you know, I'm obsessed with the history and the sort of formation of New York City as we know it today.
Josh Clark
Yeah. Where'd you get the idea for this episode?
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Just my constant desire to learn about Mannahatta and how that became eventually Manhattan that we know and love.
Josh Clark
Okay.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
I'm just fascinated by it. I love it. I love everything about it.
Josh Clark
This is definitely a big chapter in it, because what we're talking about is the plan called the Commissioner's Plan of 1811, that basically laid out Manhattan as we know and understand and love it today. Everything north of Houston Street, I should say.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah. And here's sort of a quick primer is Manhattan above Houston is almost a perfect grid. Broadway kind of screws everything up.
Josh Clark
Boo.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
But, you know, great street, but it's just Broadway's. Like, I'm not following any rules, so I'm gonna confuse people. But aside from that, it's pretty much a grid of 11 numbered avenues that run north to south, generally speaking. Then you've got Lexington, park, and Madison avenues, and then 200. And this was, at the time, numbered streets running roughly east to west. And if you want to get a little more granular than that, the southernmost street in the East Village is east first, as you would imagine. The northernmost is 220th street, as we live and breathe today in Inwood.
Josh Clark
Well, that's on the island, technically, in Manhattan. If you're talking about the borough, it goes up to 227th, I believe.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Right. And if you want to go through the Bronx, you go all the way up to 263.
Josh Clark
Man, that's crazy. That's so many streets.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
That's so many streets.
Josh Clark
You've got 263 streets.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
You've got an east and west signifier which says. And this is sort of a dummy's guide to getting around New York for the first time, too. If you, you know, broke your smartphone and you also don't want to walk around just staring at your smartphone the whole time.
Josh Clark
No. You're going to miss a lot.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah. So try and get a little intuitive feel, because it's really easy to get around if you know this stuff. East and west will signify whether you're east or west of Fifth Avenue. And then here's a little trick, too. Odd number street, streets run west. Even number streets run east. So if you come out of a subway and you know which way north, south, east, and west are, then you will never do the thing that I always do and walk in the wrong direction. Trying to go up or down.
Josh Clark
Yeah. Because that's the thing. Like, if you know what direction you're facing and you know where you're trying to go and where you are right now, you can basically make. Make your way anywhere in Manhattan above Houston Street.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah. And if you're like me and you have no idea ever what's north, south, east, and west in New York, I Don't either.
Josh Clark
I don't either.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
I had an easy time in la. Cause LA has the sun. Well, they have that. But they also have geographical landmarks that make it super easy to tell which way north. And like the Hollywood sign and the hills and stuff like that.
Josh Clark
Is that real? Is the Hollywood sign real?
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
What do you mean, is it real?
Josh Clark
I'm just kidding. Okay,
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
so that makes it a lot easier in New York when I come out there, all those big tall buildings, I never know. I can never come out and say like, well, that's north. But if you know that stuff and you know that the even numbered streets run east, the odd ones run west, then you can, you won't walk in the wrong direction for a block and then get there like I do and go, oh, we should have gone the other way.
Josh Clark
Yeah. Because depending on what direction you're walking, if you're walking north or south, going the wrong direction in a block isn't that bad. But if you're going east or west, it's real bad. Well, because there's very long blocks going east to west. And that's all part of that commissioner's plan that was laid out in 1811. And on the one hand, you know, we've kind of hit upon the pros and the cons of it, that it's easy to get around, which is really saying something because New York is absolutely huge. But you could make it from one end to the other without a map, just knowing that it's on a grid and how the grid's laid out, even roughly. But the problem is it's on a grid. And a grid is one of the least organic shapes around. And because this grid stretches over almost all of Manhattan, most of Manhattan for sure, it's viewed by a lot of people as kind of soulless and canyon esque, because you're just totally surrounded almost constantly by big imposing buildings, all at these right angles, which, it feels like a very built environment. And until Central park came along, which we did an episode in what, the 1850s or 60s, that was it. That was New York. There was nothing but that built environment.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
I got a few more of my things.
Josh Clark
Oh, okay, let's have them, buddy.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Manhattan's about 13 and a half miles long. And then, so this grid makes sense. But then once you get north of 59th street, you, you start to get like Atlanta does. And a road will just change names out of nowhere. Atlanta's very famous for that. People get very confused here.
Josh Clark
It is very confusing also, because the road will change names but one of the names, Peachtree, will still be there, but it's a totally different street.
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Josh Clark
It does not help things.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
That's right. So north of 59th, avenues on the west side change names, but avenues on the east side do not. So 8th becomes Central Park West, 9th becomes Columbus Avenue, 10th becomes Amsterdam Avenue, and 11th becomes West End Avenue.
Josh Clark
What about Avenue of the Americas?
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Well, that's Sixth, right? Or is that Seventh?
Josh Clark
Oh, man, I think it's Sixth. That's my understanding. I think it's six.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
But that's really not a name change. That's just. That's something that tourists call it.
Josh Clark
Right. I remember you making fun of me when I called it that. Did I really?
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah, that sounds about right.
Josh Clark
It was really jarring.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
And then to get people really confused, between 3rd and 5th Avenue, there are three avenues instead of what you would think would be one, because Lexington park and Madison fall between those.
Martha Stewart
Yep.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
And then south of 23rd, you've got your lettered avenues A, B, C and D, which is Alphabet City.
Josh Clark
So you wouldn't need to ever pull out a map. You just have to stand in the middle of New York and listen to the first, like, 10 minutes of this episode, and you'll find your way. No problem.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
All right, should we get into this? You said people don't like the grid. There are a lot of people. I mean, what did Walt Whitman call it?
Josh Clark
Icky, I think.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
No, I think he said. He called it one perpetual dead flat.
Josh Clark
Yeah. And streets cutting each other at right angles are certainly the last things in the world consistent with beauty of situation.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
How about this one from Edith Wharton? Rectangular New York. This cramped horizontal gridiron of a town without towers, porticos, fountains or perspectives. Hide. Bound in its deadly uniformity of mean ugliness.
Josh Clark
Yeah, I like hidebound. That's great.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
That's a great word.
Josh Clark
And mean ugliness definitely captures, like, a certain sense of New York, depending on your mood or mindset, you know?
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah.
Josh Clark
There's one, a guy named Peter Markus, who's an architecture critic, he said that the grid layout of Manhattan was one of the worst city plans of any major city in the developed countries of the world.
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Right.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
But some people love it. Some people said it was pragmatic. Some people said it really accommodated for the one thing it needed to accommodate for, which was massive growth.
Josh Clark
Right.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Let me see here. An architect named Raphael Vinoli, who's, I think, a modern architect. Not modern. I just mean current architect. But he may do modern work. Who knows? He said the grid is the best manifestation of American pragmatism. Pragmatism in the creation of urban form. And then in 1978, a Dutch architect named Rem Koolhaas said that the grid was the most courageous act of prediction in Western civilization. Clearly talking about the growth.
Josh Clark
Yes, but a courageous act. That's like architect talk. Right there. Right there. But for the most part, from what I understand, and definitely Dave says the same thing, most New Yorkers, especially born and raised New Yorkers, are not happy that that's how their city is laid out, that there's a lot of room for improvement. Is that your experience too? Sure.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
I mean Central park is great, but as we'll find out, they did not. They didn't really plan for green spaces. And New York has done their best to kind of carve them out since then. But you know, let's get into this commission.
Josh Clark
Well, let's talk about grids first. Do you want to.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah. All right. Do you want to take a break and then talk about the grid story?
Josh Clark
Yes.
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Josh Clark
So New York didn't invent the grid. As much as they like to boast that they did. They did not. In fact, a grid layout of a city goes back to that Indus Valley civilization that for some reason keeps popping up in the last, like, year or so. I guess they're gonna make a comeback or something like that, but they've just been coming out all over the place. But one of the. What was it, Chuck? Was it. Did they invent the zipper?
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
I don't think it was a zipper.
Josh Clark
What was it? Indigo?
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Josh Clark
There's been a number of them. But anyway, about at least 5,000 years ago, the Indus Valley civilization was using the grid layout to create Mohenjo Daro, which is a 750 acre city on a grid. And then shortly after that, the Greeks said, I really like this. In fact, there's a Greek thinker and mathematician named Hippodamus who's known as the father of city planning. And he was bully for grids, too.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah. If you have a grid, people still call that the Hippodamian plan, which is kind of great all these years later to still get recognized for your grid work.
Josh Clark
Yeah. If you're ever talking to somebody and they refer to a grid as a Hippodamian plan, that person knows what they're
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
talking about or listens to this show.
Josh Clark
It's one and the same, basically.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
I knew you were gonna say that. Let me see. The Conquistadors of Spain, they kind of had a habit of coming in, conquering, and then having their template in place to create these grids is what they call the law of the Indies. And they would sort of just come in, set up shop. You got a town with A big central plaza and then a grid surrounding that central plaza.
Josh Clark
Right. And they use that for everything from Lima to Los Angeles. And this took me back in my mind to what was the name of that colonial town in Guatemala that we visited?
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Oh, yeah, I know what you mean. It was wonderful.
Josh Clark
Driving crazy. It really was wonderful. It was one of the most beautiful towns I've ever been in. But it had like a central plaza with a fountain. It was a much smaller town, but now that I think about, it was laid out on a grid, too. And it was part of that law of the Indies that you were mentioning, that it was just like, this is how you build a town. And apparently the reason that they. They use that, that law, like in town after town after town that they just basically took over and said, this is ours now, it's Spain's is applying a grid was kind of a metaphor for applying order and civilization to a formerly disordered and wild indigenous town. Which makes sense from a colonizer's perspective, but I'm sure it sucked from the indigenous person's perspective like everything else. Yeah, that's with this stupid right angle stuff.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
So New York City comes along. Philadelphia had been laid out in a grid by William Penn, very deliberately, though. And that grid was kind of roomy and spacious because William Penn did not like the congestion of London.
Josh Clark
No.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
But again, Philly very much purposeful.
Josh Clark
Same with DC too.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah, boy, DC has a. Has kind of a crazy grid.
Josh Clark
Yeah. But once you understand it, it makes total sense. Numbers and letters and directions. Yeah, I always get lost in it. It takes more getting used to than New York, too, from my experience and what I understand.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah, for sure. So the Commissioner's Plan of 1811 is really sort of the demarcation point between what was first New York, New Amsterdam, and then what we now know as Manhattan. Because anyone who's ever seen almost said games of New York, gangs of New York knows that those were crazy days down there in Lower Manhattan. And things just sort of sprouted up organically from the river upward as far as the layout and the design. And, you know, you can still feel that when you go down to Lower Manhattan, which is why I love the villages now. I think it's just. I mean, I like the simplicity of the grid, but I think what I love about Lower Manhattan is how organic it feels.
Josh Clark
It's a jumble. And I mean, it's a jumble for a reason. Because those streets largely follow these original organic paths that the Dutch settlers and earliest English settlers basically said, oh, we need to get from the waterfront up, you know, to the common lands or whatever. Let's go this way. Here's a good path. And this path happens to meander around a salt marsh. And we avoid having to go up a hill by going around this way. So it's kind of like meandering. And it's definitely locked in time from those streets down there in lower Manhattan. I like it too. But it is very easy to be like, are you sure we're going the right direction still? It's very easy to get lost in those. Cause it isn't at all a grid.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah. I've spent enough time in lower Manhattan now to where I can landmark it. Like it's just familiar enough to me to where I kind of know like this block and that block. So I know where I'm going. And you mentioned something important. I don't think we've even kind of said that New York was not all this just big, one big flat slab 13 miles long that we love today because you can walk forever without ever getting out of breath. Because it's not Seattle.
Josh Clark
Right.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
New York was swampland and it had hills and marshes and creeks and rocks and it was, you know, it was kind of wild eating coast territory.
Josh Clark
Yeah. And I mean, the reason that those marshes and the ponds and hills and stuff aren't there anymore is because of this 1811 Commissioners Plan. It basically said, tear it all down, fill it all in, build this over it. And they did. That's the most astounding thing is they did that. They, you know, as we'll see, they passed a law that basically said, we're going to appoint a commission of three people. They're going to come up with three people. And whatever they come up with is law that it can't be challenged in court. We're not going to back it up and change it in any way. And they really didn't. As bad as the plan was in almost every way, they really stuck to it. But the thing that struck me, I had no idea about this, was that the 1811 Commissioner's Plan was just a ripoff of another earlier surveying map that basically provided the basis of the commissioner's plan, not even the basis of it. They weren't like, oh, we'll take this as a starting point. They just said, we'll take this, print it and put our names on it. And that's ultimately what happened.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah. So pre Revolutionary War, most of Manhattan was in that lower third of the island. And we got into big time debt because of the Revolutionary War. And so the city said in the 1780s, all right, here's what we gotta do. We own tons of land, publicly owned land, and all this marshy, kind of reedy, rocky, pondy area. It's not developed. Let's sell this stuff off and make some dough. It's called the common lands. And we need somebody to get in there and just sort of survey this and plot it all out so we know exactly how to best sell this.
Josh Clark
Yeah. So they hired a guy named Casimir Theodore Gourk. That's what I'm going with. This Gurk.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Sure.
Josh Clark
It's not a cucumber, it's a gherkin. Do you remember Mr. Cabbage Head from Kids in the Hall? Sure. Well, this had nothing to do with that. Right, right. So this surveyor actually went through the common lands. Like basically what we understand is all of Manhattan between Houston and North Harlem. He just went across and broke it into 500 acre parcels. He had a 66 foot chain on his surveying poles. And so he said, well, I'll just use that as the basic measurement for the widest streets. 66ft is what it's going to be.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
I think he said 500 acre parcels. Weren't they 5 acre?
Josh Clark
Oh, yes, I'm sorry, bigger. There's a little bit of a difference. They were 5 acre parcels. So that's even more work, that's 100 times more work than what I described.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
That's right. So he laid him out as a grid because he wasn't like, this guy wasn't out to say, here's how Manhattan should be built.
Josh Clark
Right, Right. This is the best way to promote the future of growth in Manhattan.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
No, that was not his charge. His charge was like, hey, let's just divide this stuff up and sell it. He had some interesting constraints. They had to be five acres. They had to have a central road that all of these could sort of access fairly easily. And then he had a survey chain. It's crazy to think about. This was one of the things that informed what is modern New York. His survey chain was 66ft. So he said, all right, that's how wide the road is.
Josh Clark
Yeah, exactly. So I think that was like the widest road, the central access road. He called that one Middle. And now I believe that's Fifth Avenue is middle. What was originally Middle road back in 1796.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah, that's adorable.
Josh Clark
So he carved this up, this place up into these plots that are 200ft on the east and west boundaries of it. So going up and down, running north, south, but if you're on the plot, it would be on the east side of the plot and the west side of the plot. If that was not confusing before, it is now. And then across. Or the width was 920ft. And those were the plots. He said, here you go. There's a bunch of them up there. But I've carved up all of these common lands and you can start selling them if you want.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah. Did you mention the names of the other two roads?
Josh Clark
Oh, yeah. He said, I'm gonna put two more in. Of these 66ft wide roads. And he had some very clever names for them.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah. One was middle. Remember the one to the east he named east, and the one to the west he named West.
Josh Clark
Yeah. Which makes sense if you're looking at it from. If you're on the middle road. To the east is the east road, to the west is the west road. But they run north, south.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Right.
Josh Clark
Man, I hate directions.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
And like you said, that was fifth in the center. So that's now Fourth, Fifth and sixth Ave, right?
Josh Clark
Or Fourth Avenue.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Fifth Avenue and the avenues that we miss. You know, you're really not supposed to say that.
Josh Clark
What a jerk.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
I can't believe I said that.
Josh Clark
You didn't say it like that. I didn't. You just made sure that you waited until a crowd had gathered and really laid into me.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
I think I remember. Was that our first trip to New York? Probably, man.
Josh Clark
Probably.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
That's funny.
Josh Clark
We've been back a couple of times
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
since then as a team, huh?
Josh Clark
Yeah, I know. I've got some really great memories of New York.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
I miss it.
Josh Clark
Yeah. It's been a while.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
20, 21. We will see you again.
Josh Clark
Yes, we will. New York, don't you worry.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
At least I hope so. There are no guarantees, right?
Josh Clark
No. We will see New York again.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
All right. So do we take another break? I feel like there's still a lot.
Josh Clark
There's still a lot. We should keep going for now, I think.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
All right. So in 1807, this is when the New York State legislature said, you know what? We need to. Like, we're growing here. It's clear that this southern tip of Manhattan is just the beginning. So they passed a bill that they described as an act of relative. An act relative to improvements, touching the laying out of the streets and roads in the city of New York and for other purposes.
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Right.
Josh Clark
Which made sense. But like I said, this law, they decided to just vest absolute authority into these three commissioners and said, we're going to follow whatever they come up with. Whatever that Seems to them most conducive to public good. We're just going to take on its face that it is most conducive to public good and just go with it.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
That's crazy that it was just three people and that it wasn't like 10 teams of three people submitting the best designs that then would be gone over and voted on.
Josh Clark
Yeah, it's really weird. No one took it seriously. Weirdly enough, it's very odd.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
So who were these guys?
Josh Clark
So there are three commissioners appointed. One was Governor Morris. His first name was Governor. He was one of the founding fathers. He wrote a lot of the Constitution, including the preamble. He had a peg leg. He lost his leg in a carriage accident, although there's rumors that it was something else. But he was known as a Dave Putz, an energetic philanderer, but he was apparently a very likable, Benjamin Franklin esque kind of dude who seemed to be fairly smart but had really no understanding of surveying, as far as I can tell, no.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Then his nephew in law, John Rutherford, he was a landowner in New Jersey. In fact, I think the largest landowner in New Jersey at the time. And by all accounts, it looks like this was pure nepotism. He was late for meetings, he was not especially interested, even to the annoyance of Gouverneur Morris.
Josh Clark
All the reasons to not exercise nepotism. This guy brought to the table is one third of this commission who's figuring out how to lay out the plan for New York City.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
That's right. And then the third guy, Simon Le Bon. No, no, no. Simeon DeWitt. Excuse me. And this guy actually knew what he was doing. He was a really very respected, accomplished surveyor. Worked with George Washington, I think eventually became the, which I didn't even know was a thing, was the official surveyor for the Continental army and then the Surveyor General of New York State.
Josh Clark
Right. So he knew what he was doing, which makes his role all the more shameful that he didn't say like, oh well, we really gotta, we gotta get crackin'. It's been three years and we've got four years to do this.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Maybe he did, though, who knows? He might have been completely run over by these other two chumps.
Josh Clark
Oh, and he just got shouted down, I guess.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
I don't know.
Josh Clark
Well, at the very least, Gouverneur Morris was also one of the founding members of the commission that created the Erie Canal, which was for a very long time considered one of the greatest public works projects in the history of America, certainly in the history of New York State. And that kind of energy and imagination and drive just did not make it to this 1811 Commission for the planning of New York.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
I wonder if he, I mean, this sounds cynical, but I wonder if he literally was like, man, that Erie Canal project really was a big bummer in how hard we had to work. And let's just kind of, hey, look at these maps that this guy drew to sell off New York. Let's just use those.
Josh Clark
Yeah, so that's, I mean, that's kind of what they did. Like they, they had four years or they took four years. I'm not sure how long they had, but they, they took four years from 1807 to 1811 to turn in their report. Four years of meeting sporadically. True, but they still met. Over this four year period, they came up with an 11 page report to lay out these 13 miles in length, not even square miles of Manhattan, these common lands all the way from Houston street up to North Harlem. They came up with 11 pages to explain their map. And their map really made sense as a grid. But again, they stole the grid from Kasmir Gork. I can't remember what I called them before Girk. I'm going with Gork now.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Okay, sure.
Josh Clark
But they didn't give him any credit for it whatsoever.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
No, I mean, I don't want to go so far as to call it a tracing project, but, you know, they borrowed pretty heavily. Like the streets and the avenues were basically the exact same. When, you know, earlier you mentioned the blocks were 200 by 920ft in girt from Gurk.
Josh Clark
Right.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah. This had the exact same layout. And that was no accident.
Josh Clark
No. And they were in virtually the same spot. They did do some stuff. You know, they didn't just take his map, like you were saying, and trace it and call it their own. They made some changes to it. They created Instead of the three Middle east and West, they created 12 avenues running north south and not true north south, but just, you know, for our purposes, north and south. And then they created 155 numbered streets.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah, but they.
Josh Clark
What?
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
They added this stuff, but it's sort of just copy paste kind of.
Josh Clark
Kind of. But the big thing is, so adding the 12 numbered avenues was a definite change to Gurks. Gorks. Never gonna say the same thing twice.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
But was it?
Josh Clark
Yeah, because he only had the three.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
I know, but he just had the three. And they were like, well, we need more. So let's just do what he did all over the place.
Josh Clark
Sure, sure. Okay. All right.
Martha Stewart
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Charles W. Chuck Bryant
You know what?
Josh Clark
I'm saying that's fair. Yeah. These guys are definitely not a hill I'm willing to die on. So say what you will, they're lazy schmoes, too. All right. And then they took these cross streets that are formed by the surveying of these blocks and turned them into numbered streets. So avenues running north, south, they were the big ones. 155 numbered streets running east to west. They widened the avenues. They said they're going to be 100ft wide. I guess they had a longer survey.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
They had bigger chain.
Josh Clark
Right. And then they widened some of the cross streets to, I guess, ease congestion. I think they widened 15 of them total.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah. I think the other streets were 60ft, and then 15 of them went to 100 at 14th, 23rd, 34th, 42nd, 57th, 72, 79, 86, 96, 106, 116, 125th, 135th, 145th, and 155th.
Josh Clark
Right.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
But why? Why those particular ones?
Josh Clark
There doesn't seem to be much rhyme or reason because if you notice, they didn't really hit their stride into keeping them separated by 10, 10 cross streets until 86th Street.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah.
Josh Clark
So there's not really much rhyme or
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
reason there when they only did that for three of them. Right, Four of them.
Josh Clark
And then the streets that they did choose to widen didn't necessarily make much sense one way or the other. Like, for example, 71st street was already fairly wide. It was definitely wider than 72nd Street. But they decided to make 72nd street the widened. The widened cross street rather than 71st. And apparently no one knows why. The closest thing I could find is there's some record in 1857 of somebody having to remove a big rock from 72nd street to widen it. But that doesn't even explain or make sense because there was a bunch of houses that had to be torn down to make 72nd street widened rather than
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
71st, which was already wide and had almost no houses.
Josh Clark
Exactly. So these guys were just. When you start to compile all the evidence, we'll kind of pay more out. It really seems like these guys didn't even go to the Common Lands, that maybe they were just working from Gurk's map. Or if they did go to the Common Lands, they took zero notes or paid zero attention, and that all of this came from a place of laziness and ignorance. Like not knowing that 72nd was wider than 71st or vice versa would explain that decision more than anything else.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah. Another example is if you've ever been on the west side and you feel like, man, these avenues are big. It's because they are. The avenues on the east side are spaced at 650 and 610ft apart or 610ft apart. And on the west they are all 800ft apart for no reason.
Josh Clark
No reason at all. Yeah, it doesn't make any sense. Again, it seems like they just phone this in. And what's even more astounding is that New York's founding father said, okay, we're going to do exactly what you say without questioning it.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah, and actually we kind of do have the reason, if you read closely. And we'll tell you the secret reason right after this.
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Charles W. Chuck Bryant
How's that for a cliffhanger?
Josh Clark
It was great. I'm still a little tense waiting for you to pay it off.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
All right, here's the real reason everyone. And it all lies in this quote that is pulled from their commission report. If it should be asked, why was the present plan adopted in preference to any other, the answer is because after taking all circumstances into consideration, it appeared to be the best or in other more proper terms, attended with the least inconvenience.
Josh Clark
I think that's the magic phrase right
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
there, that last phrase, attended with the least inconvenience. And Dave rightfully says what is obvious, which is inconvenient for the three commissioners.
Josh Clark
Yeah. Because their plan was extraordinarily inconvenient for basically everyone involved. Like, there was, from the people who were in charge of, like, making this, like, building this grid or this plan to the people who were already living in places that were torn down.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
40%.
Josh Clark
Yeah, 40% of places were torn down to adhere to this plan, this 1811 Commission plan.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah.
Josh Clark
That's crazy. And again, when you start to add all this stuff up, it does seem like the least inconvenient for the three commissioners. And the fact that if that is true and they just included that as kind of like a cheeky little joke, you know, those guys are. They're not necessarily burning in hell, but they're probably in purgatory somewhere.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
I also have a lot of respect for that kind of laziness at times,
Josh Clark
so the kind that makes fun of itself in public documents.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Well, just is that upfront about the fact, like, you know what? I didn't really want to work too hard on this, so here it is.
Josh Clark
Right.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
So, yeah, it was very inconvenient for everyone but them. They did this because of the growth population they expected, so it sort of made sense. But they even got that wrong. They were wrong by about half of what they thought the growth rate was going to be.
Josh Clark
Yeah. That's the thing is they were saying, like, okay, this affords enough population growth to afford a population greater than any other this side of China is how they put it. So they clearly did have at least growth on their mind. And that if you build on a grid Afford for the most growth. It's the easiest to build on. Right. Angled structures are the easiest to build and settle and live in. But the thing is, is part of that law, the 1807 law that established the commission charged them with creating public squares, Although it said in size and form and all that in number that the commissioners see fit. Unfortunately, the commissioners didn't see fit to make almost any kind of public gathering places, especially green spaces for mental health, I guess, is what you would call it.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah. And their reasoning is kind of bs, actually. I'm not sure which one it was. I guess it was Morris that. I'm not going to read the whole quote, but he basically said, hey, listen, we don't have the Sin river or the Thames winding through the middle of town. But what we do have are these two wonderful rivers that just kind of hug Manhattan. And that's enough. Because everyone's just gonna go hang out at the river all the time. Cause it's beautiful and gorgeous and you can swim in it. And the east river and the Hudson river will forever be our green space. Basically.
Josh Clark
Yeah. Basically, the city had enough. It didn't need green spaces because of the east and the Hudson Rivers. And like, in about 40 years, people were like, no, we do. We need to build Central Park.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah. Which was a savior. Because I think it says here, on their original plan, only 5% of the grid was public green space. And 240 of those 400 acres was a parade ground.
Josh Clark
Yes. Which I didn't know exactly where that was. Do you?
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
No, I'm not sure. I don't know. I mean, there are, you know, there's Washington Square Park. There's some cool kind of central promenades and things like that. And then these, you know, New York's famous for these tiny little slivers of a park kind of all over the place. But they're small.
Josh Clark
They are very small, especially compared to the surrounding areas, for sure. In the buildings.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
That's why the High Line was such a big deal.
Josh Clark
Yeah, it was a big deal. And I remember not quite grasping why. No, I definitely do. Because there's just. People need that. People need green space. They need nature. They need to be like, outside of a built environment, even if it's a built natural environment. You know what I mean?
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah. And Central park is amazing and we love it. But that's a long way, if you're in southern Manhattan, to get up there.
Josh Clark
Right, right. But basically these guys said, you don't need it. Go hang out at the Hudson or the East River.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
It's so wonderful and lovely.
Josh Clark
So the. There were a lot of people, like we said, that were really unhappy with this. This was a huge exercise of eminent domain. There were a lot of people on these lands already. Remember Seneca Village that was destroyed to create Central Park? They managed to survive the 1811 Commission. I can't remember how long that was around, but I want to say Seneca Village was around for a good 50 years before it was leveled in the 1850s. So it would on the common lands during this time. But there, like you said, about 39 or 40% of homeowners or established buildings had to be torn down. They filled in ponds, they filled in salt marshes. They completely altered the ecosystem of stuff that could have been built around or incorporated had they stopped and thought about how to do that. They just leveled everything and built a grid over it. And so a lot of people were really, really unhappy about this, and they were particularly unhappy that the city administration was just sticking to this no matter what. And there were a lot of lawsuits, and all of them, from what I understand, were unsuccessful.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Oh, yeah. For about 60 years. There were tons of lawsuits going on. And I know you said it was a big, imminent domain act, but it was, I think, still the largest act of imminent domain in New York City.
Josh Clark
Yeah.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
And that includes Central park and
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Charles W. Chuck Bryant
they get their water, which was another good episode.
Josh Clark
Yeah. Because, I mean, Central park is huge, but it's just a small sliver of this larger area.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah. This one quote from landowner Clement Clarke Moore. He published a pamphlet about the tyrannical commissioner's plan, and in it, it says this. Nothing is to be left unmolested, which does not coincide with the street commissioner's plummet and level. These are men who would have cut down the seven hills of Rome. Burn big time.
Josh Clark
Yep. So didn't matter, though. No, it really didn't matter. They just went ahead with it blindly and thoughtlessly, and did, and again, like, it did accommodate growth, although they underestimated the growth. But it took a little while for this stuff to fill up. This. This plan was delivered in 1811, but it wasn't until 1875 that enough people had started to move in that there were more New Yorkers living above 14th street than there were living below it. Because, remember, I mean, Lower Manhattan was where it all began. So that, I mean, it took a little while to fill in, and it didn't even necessarily fill in uniformly. By that same year in 1875, there's still 40,000 vacant lots left in this grid plan. And that was, like, about half of the space.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah, I love that fact. That's good. Dave has some nice facts here at the end. 1869, the very first apartment building in New York was built, called the Stuyvesant. And they called them. I don't even think they called them apartments at the time. It was called a French flat or a French house. But prior to that, it was, you know, tenement houses and houses. And so the Stuyvesant is built, and everyone thinks it's silly that anyone would want to live in the same building as other people. And they called it Stuyvesant's Folly, but that was at 142 East 18th between Irving Place and 3rd. And it was a huge hit. Like, people made fun of it in the newspapers, but people signed up to live there. Almost immediately it filled up. It was demoed and replaced in 1960, but. So this was 1869. Very. It didn't take long, though. In 1884, the Dakota was built, which still stands today. So apartment buildings kind of came into fashion, I think, probably due to Stuyvesant's Folly.
Josh Clark
Yeah, well, yeah. I mean, it went over so well and so quickly that it really opened the way for more and more to be built.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Pretty cool.
Josh Clark
So one thing that people point to is this Commissioner's Plan of 1811 is just like that same principle or the same significance that the Spanish coming in and imposing a grid over an indigenous settlement was somehow taming the wild or the organic or something like that. This is the turning point between kind of unplanned, organic, much more harmonious, naturally New York, and the planned modern New York that we know and love today. This is where it went from one to the other, almost like flipping a switch. And granted, it took decades and decades to realize this plan, but when it was delivered and when it was adopted, that was it. That change happened and the transition began.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Yeah, it's pretty amazing.
Josh Clark
I think so, too.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
What else is there for New York? I mean, we figure we got water, we got the subways covered, we got Central park, we've got this.
Josh Clark
Oh, yeah, yeah. Let's see.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
There can't be much else as far as just the bones of. Oh, I know. What I want to do is maybe how the mail and the trash work. It's a miracle.
Josh Clark
Okay. All right. Yeah. We did the Rockettes once even, too.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Oh, that's right.
Josh Clark
I mean, we've done a lot of New York topics. That's true.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Or maybe we should move to a different city. Let's start Talking about Des Moines.
Josh Clark
Holy cow, dude. It almost simultaneously came out of my mouth.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Des Moines?
Josh Clark
Yes.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
That's so weird.
Josh Clark
It is weird. It's in the zeitgeist, apparently. You got anything else?
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
I got nothing else.
Josh Clark
Okay, well, if you want to know more about New York, just start reading and then eventually travel there. They'll give you the all clear when they're ready. And since I said that, it's time for listener mail.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Hey, guys. My 16 year old son Owen is probs yous biggest fan. For real. He also has narcolepsy. I appreciate you taking on this topic and bringing some understanding of it to the masses. He was diagnosed when he was 10 and it affects every single aspect of his life. I think it has made him wise beyond his years, personally and compassionate to other people with invisible struggles. But it still sucks. If you ever want to read or hear first hand accounts from people with narcolepsy, check out Julie Flygare. That is F, L Y G A R E or Flygare. I'm not sure. How would you say that?
Josh Clark
Oh, I like the one with flavor. The second one.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Flygare, who is doing all kinds of advocates for people with narcolepsy, including a scholarship foundation. She founded Project Sleep and Voices of Narcolepsy. She also wrote a great book about her experiences with being diagnosed during law school called Wide Awake and Dreaming. When Owen received his diagnosis, I reached out to her for help. She sent Owen a care package with a book, a T shirt, wristbands, a very kind card, et cetera, to let him know that he's not alone. That is very sweet.
Josh Clark
It is.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
I think she deserves an award for the work she's doing. Anyway, a great resource for sure. Thanks for the work that you do. I mean, could we get an award?
Josh Clark
You know, we've won a Webby before, I think.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
Oh, that's true. Yeah, sometimes it's fun and entertaining, but sometimes, and often it's really important and educational as well. Sincerely, the mom of your biggest fan. And that is from Brooke.
Josh Clark
Thanks, Brooke. And thanks Owen for listening. It's really good to hear from you guys and I feel like we should send Owen something too. Sure, let's do it, Chuck. We'll figure it out.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
All right.
Josh Clark
We can't be shown up by this Flygari person.
Charles W. Chuck Bryant
No, no, no. Send us. Send us your physical address and we'll mail you something.
Josh Clark
That's right. And in the meantime, thanks for listening and thanks for being a fan and thank you for listening and thank you for being a fan. Too. And if you want to get in touch with us like Brooke did, you can send us an email, wrap it up, spank it on the bottom and send it off to stuff podcast@iheartradio.com
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Josh Clark
youf Should Know is a production of iHeartradio.
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Host: Josh Clark & Charles W. “Chuck” Bryant
Podcast: Stuff You Should Know (iHeartPodcasts)
Episode Date: August 15, 2026
Topic: The history, design, and impact of the Manhattan street grid (Commissioner's Plan of 1811)
This episode explores the origins and legacy of the Manhattan grid, one of the most famous urban layouts in the world. Hosts Josh and Chuck break down how New York City north of Houston Street came to be so rectilinear, the people behind the plan, what drove its creation, and what critics and defenders have said through the years.
Massive Transformation:
Underestimation of Growth:
Failure to Provide Green Space:
Filling the Grid:
On Grids and Beauty:
On Green Spaces:
On the commissioners’ work ethic:
On the origins of the plan:
On the arbitrariness of certain grid choices:
| Segment | Timestamp | |-----------------------------------------------|---------------| | Episode intro & context | 03:35–05:08 | | Anatomy of the grid, navigation explained | 05:11–08:37 | | Famous critiques of the grid | 11:41–13:23 | | Global history of grids | 17:04–20:27 | | Pre-grid, the organic Lower Manhattan | 21:35–22:55 | | Goerck’s precursor plan | 24:42–26:21 | | Commissioners and process | 29:39–33:00 | | Grid details, oddities & inconsistencies | 34:10–37:21 | | "Least inconvenience" quote & critique | 41:10–42:16 | | Eminent domain, lawsuits, and resistance | 41:52–47:18 | | Lack of parks & green space | 43:47–45:48 | | How grid expansion urbanized Manhattan | 47:53–49:53 | | First apartment buildings | 48:45–49:53 | | Closing reflections on the grid’s legacy | 50:00–51:42 |
For listeners and city lovers:
This episode offers a comprehensive, wry, and critical take on how one of the most iconic city grids came to be, why it matters, and why it incites such strong opinions to this day—a must-listen for anyone curious about urban history or simply how to get around New York City.