Summary of "Chinese Food: Best Food?" Episode from Stuff You Should Know

Released on April 29, 2025 by iHeartPodcasts

Introduction

In the April 29, 2025 episode of Stuff You Should Know titled "Chinese Food: Best Food?", hosts Josh Clark and Chuck Bryant delve deep into the rich and multifaceted world of Chinese cuisine, particularly its evolution and adaptation in the United States. They explore the historical roots, cultural influences, and modern-day interpretations that have shaped what is commonly known as American Chinese food today.

The Diversity of Chinese Cuisine

Josh Clark begins the conversation by setting the stage for an extensive exploration of Chinese food, acknowledging the vastness of the topic. He mentions, “this is going to be a very broad overview of a cuisine that we could probably do like a 10 part, at least episode series on” ([01:49]). This disclaimer sets the expectation for listeners that the discussion will cover a wide range of topics related to Chinese cuisine.

Chuck Bryant emphasizes the global influence of Chinese food, explaining that its diversity stems from its widespread migration and adaptation across different regions. He notes, “Anywhere that Chinese people traveled, usually for work, to immigrate. They brought their food with them and introduced it to wherever they were” ([02:56]). This global dispersion has led to varied interpretations of Chinese cuisine, each infused with local flavors and ingredients.

The History of Chinese Food in America

Early Chinese Immigration and the Chinese Exclusion Act

The hosts delve into the historical context of Chinese immigration to the United States. Chuck Bryant shares insights from the book From Canton Restaurant to Panda Express: A History of Chinese Food in the United States by Haiming Leo, highlighting how Chinese immigrants initially established Chinese restaurants to cater to the needs of American workers during the Gold Rush era.

Josh Clark adds, “the first Chinese restaurant to open in all of North America… was called Canton. And it was in San Francisco” ([09:14]). By 1851, San Francisco boasted seven full-time Chinese restaurants, indicating a strong demand and acceptance of Chinese cuisine despite prevalent racial tensions.

The discussion touches upon the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882, the first significant law restricting immigration based on nationality. Josh Clark explains how this act inadvertently led to the rise of more upscale Chinese restaurants, as certain business classifications allowed restaurant owners to sponsor family members from China, fostering a more established Chinese-American community ([23:40]).

Chop Suey: Myth vs. Reality

A significant portion of the episode examines the legendary dish Chop Suey, often considered a cornerstone of American Chinese cuisine. Josh Clark mentions, “Some people say that you can make it with egg, but those people are wrong” ([14:59]), emphasizing the traditional composition of the dish as a mixture of meat, vegetables, and a thick sauce typically served with rice.

The hosts explore the origins of Chop Suey, discussing various theories about its name and creation. Chuck Bryant references a lawsuit by Lem Sen in 1904, who claimed to have invented Chop Suey for a Chinese diplomat. Although the lawsuit was ultimately dropped, it cemented Chop Suey's status as an American culinary staple, encapsulated by the saying, “chop suey is as American as pork and beans” ([16:19], [18:25]).

Americanization of Chinese Dishes

General Tso's Chicken

Josh Clark introduces General Tso's Chicken, another iconic American Chinese dish, exploring its origins. Chuck Bryant recounts the creation of an original, non-American version of the dish in Taiwan by Chef Penchengui Kuéi for a U.S. military dignitary, which starkly contrasts with the sweet and spicy version popular in the U.S. ([31:14]).

The transformation of General Tso's Chicken from its traditional roots to its current form exemplifies the broader trend of adapting Chinese cuisine to American tastes, resulting in dishes that, while inspired by authentic recipes, bear little resemblance to their origins.

Fortune Cookies

The episode also delves into the history of fortune cookies, clarifying a common misconception. Josh Clark explains that fortune cookies originated from the Japanese "cracker" and were adapted by Chinese American restaurateurs after World War II, particularly by Donald Lau of Wonton Food Company, who humorously states, “I am the most read author in the United States” ([37:32]).

Regional Specialties

The hosts highlight unique regional American Chinese dishes that have developed distinct identities outside traditional Chinese cuisine:

• St. Paul Sandwich ([38:04]): Described as an egg foo young omelet served as a sandwich with mayo, pickles, lettuce, and brown gravy, representing a fusion of Chinese and American lunch traditions.

• Chow Mein Sandwich ([38:24]): Originating from Fall River, Massachusetts, this dish features chow mein served on a hamburger bun, although visually it resembles a plate of chow mein with a bun rather than a traditional sandwich.

Comparison of Chinese Restaurant Chains

P.F. Chang's

P.F. Chang's is discussed as a prominent chain striving for a higher-end dining experience compared to typical Chinese takeout. Chuck Bryant mentions the influence of Cecilia Chiang, a pioneer in authentic Chinese cuisine in America, whose restaurant Mandarin inspired the founding of P.F. Chang's by her son, Philip Chang ([44:28]).

Panda Express

In contrast, Panda Express is characterized as the "Chinese fast food" equivalent, boasting over 2,300 locations nationwide. Josh Clark notes that Panda Express introduced popular dishes like Orange Chicken in 1987, which have become staples in American Chinese dining ([44:55]).

The hosts compare the two chains, emphasizing Panda Express's scalability and wide-reaching presence versus P.F. Chang's more curated dining experience.

Global Adaptations of Chinese Cuisine

British Chinese Food

The episode touches on British adaptations of Chinese cuisine, noting that dishes like Chicken Balls have become favorites in the UK, diverging from their original forms but retaining their popularity.

Indian Chinese Food

Josh Clark briefly mentions the phenomenon of Indian Chinese cuisine, where Indian restaurants incorporate Chinese dishes such as Manchurian specialties, creating a unique fusion that caters to diverse palates.

Latin American Chinese-Influenced Cuisine

Chino Latino ([49:57]) restaurants in New York City blend Chinese culinary techniques with Latin flavors, though these establishments are currently in decline.

Afro Cantonese in South Africa

The hosts also highlight Afro Cantonese cuisine in South Africa, a result of historical Chinese immigration during the 19th century, showcasing the global adaptability of Chinese culinary practices.

Conclusion

The episode concludes with a reflection on the pervasive influence of Chinese cuisine worldwide and its continual evolution through cultural exchange and adaptation. Josh Clark expresses anticipation for exploring other fusion cuisines, inspired by their deep dive into Chinese food's journey in America.

Notable Quotes

• Chuck Bryant ([02:56]): “Chinese food is not just one thing or one of the reasons why is because it's been exported all over the globe.”

• Donald Lau, CFO of Wonton Food Company ([37:32]): “I am the most read author in the United States.”

• Josh Clark ([14:59]): “It's a mixture of meat, vegetables, a thick sauce, usually with rice.”

This comprehensive exploration by Josh and Chuck offers listeners an insightful look into the complexities and rich history of Chinese cuisine in America, illustrating how immigration, cultural adaptation, and entrepreneurial spirit have intertwined to create the diverse landscape of Chinese food enjoyed today.