Podcast Summary: Stuff You Should Know – "How Automats Worked"

Introduction

In the January 23, 2025 episode of Stuff You Should Know, hosts Josh Clark and Chuck Bryant delve into the fascinating world of automats—a pioneering concept in the history of dining. Inspired by Lisa Hurwitz's acclaimed documentary The Automat, the hosts explore the origins, operations, cultural significance, and eventual decline of automats in the United States. Joined by their new writer, Laura Clausen, the episode promises a comprehensive look into this unique aspect of culinary and social history.

History of Automats

The story of automats begins in Berlin, Germany, where the first automat emerged in 1895. Originally a general term for vending machines, automats quickly won a gold medal at the Brussels World Fair, igniting interest across Europe. Within five years, the concept spread throughout the continent, setting the stage for its transatlantic journey to the United States.

Josh Clark recounts, “The first automat popped up in Berlin in 1895, and the word automat was just more of a general term for a vending machine in Germany” (03:14). In the United States, automats were introduced by Joseph Horn and Frank Hardart, founders of a successful cafeteria chain in Philadelphia. Despite initial setbacks—such as a shipwreck that sank their equipment and a warehouse fire—Horn and Hardart persevered, establishing their first American automat in 1902.

By 1912, Horn and Hardart expanded to New York City, and within two decades, they operated 42 automats in New York and 20 in Philadelphia, becoming the largest restaurant chain in the country. Their success during the Great Depression is particularly notable, as automats offered affordable comfort food and a welcoming environment during a time of economic hardship.

Features and Appeal of Automats

Automats revolutionized the dining experience with their self-service model. Customers navigated through walls of glass-fronted compartments, each housing different dishes. As Laura Clausen explains, “You would put your money in and you get your food out and you go sit down” (06:19). This system allowed patrons to choose food based on visuals rather than needing to read a menu, making it accessible to non-English speakers and those with varying literacy levels.

The aesthetic appeal of automats cannot be overstated. Described as “gorgeous” and “art deco,” these establishments featured marble, stained glass, bronze accents, and large windows that flooded the interiors with light (18:47). The ambiance was both futuristic and welcoming, reminiscent of the optimistic design ethos of the early 20th century.

One of the standout features was the quality and freshness of the food. Josh highlighted, “Horn and Hardart had a different take. They had French drip coffee, which was still an exotic treat” (19:17). Their commitment to freshness meant that items like baked beans and oyster stew were regularly replenished to ensure a high-quality dining experience.

Operations Behind Automats

Automats operated with remarkable efficiency, supported by central commissary kitchens that prepared large quantities of food to be distributed across their locations. The term “nickel throwers” referred to the employees, predominantly women, who managed the coin-operated dispensing systems. These workers were essential in maintaining the flow of food and ensuring that compartments were consistently stocked.

However, the reliance on nickels presented economic challenges. In 1950, as the value of the nickel declined due to inflation, Horn and Hardart had to increase the price of their coffee from five cents to ten cents to remain profitable (22:37). This price hike, though necessary, led to a significant drop in sales—from 70 million cups a year to 45 million—highlighting the delicate balance between affordability and sustainability.

Cultural Impact

Automats were more than just places to eat; they were social hubs that embodied inclusivity and diversity long before these values became mainstream. Josh and Laura emphasize that automats welcomed patrons regardless of race, gender, or economic status. As Laura notes, “They never knew what you'd run into in an automat” (40:03), reflecting the multicultural mosaic of urban America.

Celebrity endorsements and cultural references further cemented the automat’s place in society. Icons like Audrey Hepburn, James Dean, Carl Reiner, and Mel Brooks frequented Horn and Hardart’s establishments, adding to their allure. Neil Simon’s nostalgic reflection captures the essence: “To have your own stack of nickels placed in your tiny hands... was a lesson in financial dealings” (28:10).

Decline of Automats

Despite their early success, automats began to decline in the 1960s due to several interrelated factors. Suburbanization led to a shift in population away from urban centers, reducing the foot traffic essential for automats’ survival. Additionally, the rise of fast-food chains like Burger King introduced a new, competitive dining model that prioritized speed and consistency over the unique charm of automats.

Laura explains, “As they started going downhill, a different kind of shopper started coming in... people that were itinerant, people that were unhoused, people that were vagrants” (44:38). This change in clientele made automats less appealing to their original middle-class patrons, creating a vicious cycle of dwindling revenues and reduced appeal.

Horn and Hardart attempted various innovations to revive interest, including themed environments like a Wild West room and beer gardens. However, these efforts were largely unsuccessful. Ultimately, the company decided to replace automats with fast-food franchises, leading to the closure of the last Horn and Hardart automat in New York City in 1991.

Legacy and Modern Attempts

The legacy of automats is evident in the fast-food industry, which adopted elements of the automat’s self-service model and efficient food distribution systems. Josh reflects, “The automat kind of helped lay the foundation for fast food” (46:29), noting similarities in the streamlined, standardized approach to serving food.

In modern times, there have been attempts to revive the automat concept with technological advancements. Examples include automated sushi conveyor belts in Japan and app-based locker systems for ordering food. While these innovations capture some of the automat’s essence, they lack the extensive human-operated backend that characterized the original automats.

Conclusion

Stuff You Should Know's episode on automats provides an in-depth exploration of this unique dining phenomenon. From their innovative beginnings in Europe to their cultural significance and eventual decline in America, automats represent a fascinating intersection of technology, society, and culinary evolution. The hosts effectively highlight how automats were not only places to eat but also social landmarks that promoted inclusivity and community. Despite their disappearance, the automat’s influence persists in today’s fast-food industry and modern automated food services, underscoring their lasting impact on how we perceive and interact with food establishments.

Notable Quotes

• Josh Clark: “Horn and Hardart was already business together... they figured out the best way to predict the future was to build it themselves.” (09:59)

• Laura Clausen: “They had a motto, which was serve everybody and serve everybody in the same way.” (39:27)

• Josh Clark: “To have your own stack of nickels placed in your tiny hands, to be able to choose your own food... was a lesson in financial dealings that not even two years at the Wharton School could buy today.” (28:10)

• Josh Clark: “There was nothing more newsy or current than that [the automat].” (03:14)

Timestamps Overview

• 00:03:14 - Introduction to the episode topic inspired by the documentary.
• 00:06:19 - Explanation of the automat’s self-service model.
• 00:09:59 - Horn and Hardart’s perseverance in bringing automats to the U.S.
• 00:18:47 - Description of automats' aesthetic and ambiance.
• 00:19:17 - Highlighting the quality of Horn and Hardart’s coffee.
• 00:22:37 - Economic challenges related to pricing changes.
• 00:28:10 - Neil Simon’s nostalgic quote on automats.
• 00:38:21 - Emphasis on inclusivity and diversity in automats.
• 00:39:27 - Laura Clausen on the egalitarian motto of automats.
• 00:40:03 - Discussion on automats as welcoming spaces for immigrants.
• 00:44:38 - Shift in automat clientele contributing to decline.

This comprehensive summary captures the essence of Josh, Chuck, and Laura's discussion on automats, providing listeners with a detailed understanding of their historical significance, operational mechanics, cultural impact, and the factors leading to their decline. The inclusion of notable quotes and timestamps enriches the narrative, offering insightful reflections from the hosts throughout the episode.