Podcast Summary: "The Story of Tavern on the Green"

Introduction

In the episode titled "The Story of Tavern on the Green," hosts Josh Clark and Chuck Bryant delve into the rich history of one of New York City's most iconic restaurants. Released on November 21, 2024, this episode provides an engaging exploration of Tavern on the Green's transformation from a humble sheep enclosure to a legendary dining establishment nestled within Central Park.

Origins as a Sheep Enclosure

Timestamps: 04:00 - 07:00

Tavern on the Green initially began as a sheepfold within Central Park. Designed by Jacob Ray Mould in the late 19th century, the sheep enclosure served as an interactive exhibit where visitors could observe and even interact with sheep, including activities like shearing and purchasing wool. As Chuck Bryant highlights, "Sheep used to sleep in Tavern on the Green" (04:44), emphasizing the pastoral charm that attracted city dwellers seeking a respite from urban life.

Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux, the designers of Central Park, envisioned the park as a pastoral haven amidst the burgeoning city. Despite plans for a parade ground, the space was repurposed into a sheep meadow by the 1870s, reflecting New York’s yearning for green spaces in an increasingly urbanized environment.

Transformation into a Restaurant

Timestamps: 09:00 - 14:00

In 1934, Parks Commissioner Robert Moses spearheaded the transformation of the sheepfold into Tavern on the Green. This move was part of the broader Civil Works Administration (CWA) efforts during the Great Depression to revamp infrastructure and provide employment. Josh Clark notes, "The city’s Parks Department actually owns the restaurant. They just lease it out to different operators who want to try their hand at making it like the premier dining establishment in Manhattan" (04:00).

The inaugural announcement in February 1934 revealed plans to convert the sheepfold into a picturesque restaurant with moderate pricing, aiming to make it accessible to the average patron. The remodeling included paving the dining area with flagstones and setting up outdoor spaces conducive to dining and dancing, enhancing the venue's appeal as a social hub.

Notable Restaurateurs and Renovations

Timestamps: 22:00 - 30:00

Throughout its history, Tavern on the Green saw various leadership changes that significantly influenced its trajectory. One of the first notable restaurateurs was Joe Baum, who took over in the 1960s. Renowned as "The Cecil B. DeMille of restaurateurs," Baum elevated the restaurant's status, managing other high-profile establishments like the Rainbow Room and the Four Seasons. His tenure established Tavern on the Green as a vital part of New York’s nightlife by the 1950s, expanding the venue to accommodate over 1,200 guests annually (22:00).

In 1974, Warner Leroy, a former theater director, took over operations, infusing the restaurant with a flamboyant flair. Leroy’s renovations included extravagant decorations, such as chandeliers from India and the infamous Crystal Room—a glass-laden space reminiscent of a scene from "Ghostbusters." Leroy's approach was both praised and criticized for its over-the-top aesthetics. Josh shares, "A restaurant is a fantasy kind of living theater in which diners are the most important members of the cast" (26:56), reflecting Leroy’s theatrical vision.

Golden Era and Popularity

Timestamps: 30:00 - 40:00

Under Leroy's stewardship, Tavern on the Green flourished, becoming a staple for celebrities and high-profile events. The 1980s and 1990s marked the restaurant's peak, with annual revenues surpassing $40 million and serving over 600,000 diners each year. Its allure was further cemented by appearances in popular culture, including films like "Beaches" and "Ghostbusters," where the Crystal Room symbolized opulence and exclusivity.

The restaurant's success was partly due to its strategic location in Central Park and the city's backing, which included a favorable licensing deal facilitated by connections within the Bloomberg administration. Chuck remarks, "That was like a tried and true Robert Moses trick... We've already started if you don't like the idea. Sorry, we've already started" (09:49), highlighting the political maneuvering that supported Tavern on the Green's expansion.

Decline and Challenges

Timestamps: 40:00 - 50:00

The turn of the millennium brought significant challenges to Tavern on the Green. The passing of Warner Leroy in February 2001 coincided with the September 11 attacks, which adversely affected New York City's economy and tourism. Under Jennifer Oz Leroy's management, the restaurant struggled to maintain its former glory. Critical reviews became harsher, with The New York Times rating Tavern on the Green at most one out of four stars over 23 years (37:29), signaling a decline in both food quality and dining experience.

Issues expanded beyond culinary shortcomings. In 2008, a lawsuit accused the management of sexual and racial harassment, further tarnishing the restaurant’s reputation. By 2009, the Parks Department opted not to renew the Leroy family's 20-year lease, leading to a period of uncertainty and closure from 2010 to 2014 as bids to revitalize the establishment failed to materialize.

Recent Reopenings and Current Status

Timestamps: 40:00 - 48:00

In 2014, Philadelphia-based partners Jim Caiola and David Salama revitalized Tavern on the Green with a $10 million investment, aiming to restore its historic charm while modernizing the facilities. Their approach focused on preserving original architectural elements like cathedral beams and copper gutters, creating an authentic tavern atmosphere. However, the Crystal Room faced criticism for its overly casual and resort-like ambiance, as noted by Pete Wells: "It resembles an all-day casual dining option at a family-friendly resort in Florida" (41:21).

Despite mixed reviews, the restaurant managed to regain some of its former prestige. Josh offers his personal take, stating, "The food was warm. The service was good" (47:00), acknowledging improvements while recognizing its lingering tourist-centric vibe. The hosts concluded that Tavern on the Green remains a worthwhile experience for both first-time visitors and seasoned New Yorkers seeking a quintessential Central Park dining experience.

Conclusion

"The Story of Tavern on the Green" episode offers a comprehensive overview of the restaurant's storied past, highlighting its evolution through various eras and management styles. Josh and Chuck's insightful discussion underscores Tavern on the Green's significance as a cultural landmark, reflecting broader trends in New York City's social and economic landscape. Through notable quotes and detailed anecdotes, listeners gain a nuanced understanding of how Tavern on the Green became a symbol of New York's enduring charm and resilience.

Notable Quotes

• Chuck Bryant: "Sheep used to sleep in Tavern on the Green." (04:44)

• Josh Clark: "A restaurant is a fantasy kind of living theater in which diners are the most important members of the cast." (26:56)

• Chuck Bryant: "That was like a tried and true Robert Moses trick... We've already started if you don't like the idea. Sorry, we've already started." (09:49)

• Pete Wells: "It resembles an all-day casual dining option at a family-friendly resort in Florida." (41:21)

Final Thoughts

For those interested in the intersection of New York City's history, architecture, and culinary evolution, this episode of "Stuff You Should Know" provides an enlightening narrative. Whether you're a local or a visitor, understanding the legacy of Tavern on the Green enriches the appreciation of Central Park's vibrant cultural tapestry.