The Barefaced Podcast: Class, Culture, and Contouring – The UK’s Distinct Beauty Trends

Episode Release Date: January 16, 2025
Host: Lily Twelve Tree

Introduction

In this episode of The Barefaced Podcast, Lily Twelve Tree delves into the unique landscape of the UK beauty market. Building on the foundation laid in the previous episode, she explores how class and culture shape beauty trends, particularly in makeup. Lily also shares exciting personal and professional updates, including Barefaced's feature in the New York Times and new partnerships that signal growth for her market research company.

Part 1: Market Health

Snapshot of the UK Beauty Industry

Lily begins by presenting a comprehensive overview of the UK beauty market's health over the past five years. According to the British Beauty Council's August report, the industry experienced an 11% growth in 2023, with sales reaching £27.2 billion—only slightly below the pre-COVID average of £28 billion. This places the beauty sector ahead of personal care, publishing, chemical manufacturing, and the creative arts in terms of growth.

“This growth puts the personal care category ahead of publishing, chemical manufacturing and the creative arts and entertainment industries.” (00:50)

Proliferation of Beauty Brands

Examining data from Companies House, Lily highlights a surge in the number of beauty brands in the UK. Since 2014, over 500 new companies with "beauty" in their name have been registered annually, culminating in 14,242 brands by 2020. This exponential growth underscores the UK's robust beauty market and the increasing accessibility for new entrants.

“Since 2014, there have been more than 500 companies a year incorporated with the word beauty in their name. The total in 2020 came to 14,242 brands with beauty in the name.” (04:30)

Makeup Dominance at Boots

Lily shifts focus to Boots, the UK’s largest beauty retailer, revealing that 62% of their new product listings in beauty and skincare are makeup-related. This is particularly striking given the global trend emphasizing skincare over color cosmetics.

“When we compare the category growth at Boots in the UK to the Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery association, color cosmetics had the largest growth of any category at 4.1%. That is more than double the next highest category, which was Fragrance, that had 2% growth.” (09:15)

This data illustrates the British consumer's strong affinity for makeup, challenging global narratives that suggest a decline in color cosmetics interest.

Part 2: Stylistic Trends

Distinctive British Makeup Aesthetic

Lily describes a quintessential British makeup look characterized by a full beat, bright under-eyes, defined brows, fluffy lashes, and ombre glossy lips. This style emphasizes full coverage and vibrant color, contrasting sharply with trends in the US and Australia, which often favor a more natural, effortless appearance.

“British makeup can almost feel radical in a way for women to walk around and visibly demonstrate the time that they've put into a look.” (12:45)

Influence of Black Culture

A significant influence on UK beauty trends is the UK Black Girl Makeup movement. Lily cites Katush Goal, a UK beauty influencer, explaining how this trend represents an evolution in highlighting and contouring techniques tailored to darker, low-contrast features.

“Utilizing different products through different tones and shades is the perfect way to maximize a makeup look. This goes beyond finding the right shade of concealer.” (14:30)

This movement not only celebrates diversity but also addresses the unique makeup needs of Black women, fostering a more inclusive beauty culture.

Class and Culture Impacting Beauty Choices

Lily explores how the UK's entrenched class system influences beauty trends. She discusses how class pride supersedes class mobility, leading to distinct beauty practices across different social strata. Affluent individuals often maintain their appearance through regular treatments, while others may opt for more permanent solutions like veneers.

“A key look of the upper class or wealthy is looking maintained, and this costs. A part of their look is also understated, reserved and conservative.” (20:10)

This reflection on class dynamics reveals how economic stability and cultural expectations shape beauty routines and preferences in the UK.

Part 3: Brands

Old vs. New British Beauty Brands

Lily contrasts established UK beauty brands like Rimmel London, Max Factor, and The Body Shop with newer entrants such as Doll Beauty, P Louise, and HNB Cosmetics. While legacy brands have achieved international recognition, newer brands predominantly focus on the UK market, leveraging social media for growth.

“These new ways of selling, these new sales channels, the TikTok of it all feels as foreign as D2C did back in the 2000s.” (28:40)

Rise of TikTok Shop and Indie Brands

The emergence of TikTok Shop has revolutionized how new beauty brands achieve success. Lily cites P Louise as a prime example, generating nearly $2.9 million in revenue within 30 days, primarily through TikTok live sessions and affiliate marketing.

“P Louise has over 3 million followers. On a record-breaking day, they did £1.5 million in 12 hours and $7.5 million during Black Friday.” (32:25)

This platform allows micro to mid-sized creators to drive significant sales without needing large followings, democratizing the creator economy and enabling indie brands to thrive.

Localization and Personalization

New UK beauty brands excel by focusing on localization—catering specifically to British consumers' preferences for high-impact pigment and full coverage. By specializing in niches and engaging directly with their audience through social media, these brands avoid the pitfalls of overexpansion and maintain a strong, loyal customer base.

“These indie British brands are such a great example of what that looks like, how that manifests.” (37:50)

Their strategies highlight the importance of understanding and addressing the specific desires of the local market, setting them apart from international competitors.

Conclusion and Future Directions

Lily concludes that the British beauty consumer's profound love for makeup drives brands to double down on color cosmetics and innovative sales channels like TikTok Shop. She emphasizes the dynamic and evolving nature of the UK beauty market, anticipating that new British indie brands will continue to shape global trends.

“The British beauty consumer loves makeup more than just about anyone else, and brands know that, so they're doubling down as always.” (44:10)

Looking ahead, Lily teases the next episode, which will explore the intersection of luxury beauty and fashion, examining why luxury fashion houses launch beauty lines and how these endeavors affect their businesses.

“Next week we're going to look at luxury beauty versus luxury fashion. Why do luxury fashion houses have beauty brands? Why are new ones launching and others closing down?” (48:35)

Notable Quotes

• “British makeup can almost feel radical in a way for women to walk around and visibly demonstrate the time that they've put into a look.” – Lily Twelve Tree (12:45)

• “Since 2014, there have been more than 500 companies a year incorporated with the word beauty in their name.” – Lily Twelve Tree (04:30)

• “The British beauty consumer loves makeup more than just about anyone else, and brands know that, so they're doubling down as always.” – Lily Twelve Tree (44:10)

Final Thoughts

This episode provides an in-depth analysis of the UK beauty market, highlighting how cultural and class dynamics influence consumer behavior and brand strategies. Lily's insights into the emergence of TikTok Shop and the success of indie brands offer valuable perspectives for beauty business professionals and enthusiasts alike.

For more insights and detailed graphs from today's episode, visit barefaced.substack.com. Don’t forget to subscribe, leave a rating, and share the podcast to support the show's growth.