The Beauty Brains: Episode 384 - Nanoplasty, Talc, and Heat Oh My

Release Date: January 8, 2025

In the first episode of the new year, hosts Perry Romanowski and Valerie George delve into a variety of pressing beauty topics, blending insightful discussions with engaging segments and expert answers to listener questions. This episode navigates through the complexities of cosmetic chemistry, industry regulations, environmental concerns, and consumer advice, all delivered with the hosts' characteristic wit and scientific rigor.

Industry News: Talc Regulations and Walmart's Emission Goals

FDA’s New Testing Standards for Talc in Cosmetics

At [07:21], Perry introduces a significant development in cosmetic regulation: the FDA's proposal for standardized testing methods to detect asbestos in talc-containing products. Historically, talc and asbestos have been naturally co-located, posing potential safety risks. While cosmetic-grade talc undergoes asbestos filtration, the absence of a standardized testing method had left uncertainties regarding its safety. Valerie emphasizes the importance of this regulation, citing insights from industry veteran David Steinberg, who highlighted that concerns about asbestos in talc date back to the early 1970s.

Valerie George:
"By the early 70s, a paper was published that the amount of asbestos in talc can be problematic. The FDA requested better methods to determine levels in asbestos, and in the 80s, they adopted a method that was used for a long time, though not the best." [07:51]

The standardized testing is anticipated to enhance the safety of talc used in cosmetics across the industry. Valerie adds that with ongoing lawsuits and increasing restrictions in regions like the EU, companies are likely to distance themselves from talc ingredients altogether.

Walmart’s Struggle with Emission Targets

Later in the news segment at [09:21], Valerie and Perry discuss Walmart’s inability to meet its ambitious greenhouse gas emission reduction goals. Valerie points out that Walmart failed to reduce emissions by 35% by 2025 and 65% by 2030, with emissions even rising by 3.9% in 2023.

Valerie George:
"This is proof that you can't grow your business and grow your sales and simultaneously reduce your emissions. It's very difficult to do." [10:06]

They critique the feasibility of large corporations achieving self-imposed environmental targets without governmental mandates, suggesting that without external pressure, such pledges often remain unmet.

Celebrity Beauty Lines: A Fun Challenge

At [12:31], Perry and Valerie engage in a playful game testing their knowledge of celebrity beauty lines. They present five female and five male celebrities, challenging each other to identify who does not have their own beauty or personal care line.

Women Celebrities:

1. Lady Gaga
2. Anne Hathaway
3. Jessica Simpson
4. Ariana Grande
5. Miranda Kerr

Valerie correctly identifies Anne Hathaway as the one without her own line.

Men Celebrities:

1. Harry Styles
2. Pharrell Williams
3. Jason Momoa
4. Jared Leto
5. John Legend

Valerie correctly points out that Jason Momoa does not have a beauty line, while the others each have their own brands, such as Harry Styles' "Pleasing" and Pharrell Williams' "Human Race."

Listener Questions: Expert Answers from Perry and Valerie

1. PFAS in Self-Fizzing Products

Question from Sean [16:28]:
“Is it okay to use self tanner under your eyes and on your lips are PFAs, the ingredient that causes products to sell foam...”

Discussion:

Valerie and Perry break down the complexities of PFAS (perfluoroalkyl substances) in cosmetics, explaining that while not all self-foaming products contain PFAS, many do utilize compounds like methyl perfluorobutyl ether to achieve the bubbling effect. These substances are persistent in the environment, earning them the label "forever chemicals," though no direct health risks have been identified when used on the skin.

Valerie George:
"If you're using a product that self fizzes and bubbles on the skin, it's probably using a perfluorinated material that meets the legal criteria for a PFAS." [19:17]

They recommend avoiding such products due to environmental concerns and suggest seeking alternatives that do not rely on PFAS for their foaming properties.

2. Safety of Using Self-Tanner Around Eyes and Lips

Question from Eliza [21:24]:
“I keep seeing TikTok creators put self tanner around their lips and eyes for long-lasting contour. Is this safe?”

Discussion:

Valerie and Perry caution against applying self-tanners near sensitive areas like the eyes and lips. DHA (dihydroxyacetone), a common self-tanning agent, is approved for external use but can irritate mucous membranes and may pose risks if inhaled or applied near delicate skin areas.

Perry Romanowski:
"The FDA advises against using self tanners around those areas unless the product specifically says you can use it there." [22:10]

They emphasize sticking to professional guidelines and avoiding DIY hacks that could lead to unintended harm.

3. Heat Protection Claims in Hair Products

Question from Janie [25:57]:
“How can products like Olaplex claim heat protection up to 450°F, and why does Garnier’s smoothing oil sometimes feel tacky?”

Discussion:

Valerie explains that silicones like dimethicone form a protective film on hair strands, acting as heat sinks to absorb and evenly distribute heat, thereby preventing damage. The 450°F claim stems from standardized testing where treated hair undergoes high-temperature exposure to demonstrate reduced breakage.

Valerie George:
"Silicones form a film down the hair fiber, acting as a heat sink and distributing heat more evenly." [25:47]

Regarding the inconsistency with Garnier’s smoothing oil, Valerie attributes it to the presence of cyclic silicones that evaporate, potentially leading to frizz if not evenly applied or if environmental factors like humidity affect the hair post-application.

4. Are Pricier Skincare Products Worth It?

Question from Stacy [31:30]:
“Are pricier products really more effective and worth the cost, or will my lower-cost items still get the job done?”

Discussion:

Valerie and Perry advocate for a straightforward skincare routine over expensive products. They highlight that effective skincare hinges on consistency and basic practices such as cleansing, exfoliating, moisturizing, and applying SPF. High-end products are not inherently superior; performance depends on the ingredients and formulation rather than the price tag.

Valerie George:
"The most important thing you can do for yourself is to get a routine. You can play around and add a serum if you want, but a basic routine is 80% of the battle." [35:52]

They reassure listeners that drugstore products can be just as effective as their high-end counterparts when chosen thoughtfully.

5. Understanding Brazilian Nanoplasty and Its Effects

Question from Valerio [35:57]:
“Can you tell me about Brazilian nanoplasty, its chemistry, the damage it creates on hair, and how it works?”

Discussion:

Valerie and Perry approach Brazilian nanoplasty with skepticism, suggesting that despite marketing claims of using "natural" ingredients like amino acids and collagen, the process likely involves significant heat application that can damage hair fibers. They question the scientific validity of the claims, pointing out that terms like "nano" are often used as marketing jargon without substantial backing.

Valerie George:
"The use of the word 'nano' implies nanotechnology or nanomaterials, which are hard to justify in cosmetic products without rigorous toxicological review." [38:15]

They caution consumers about the potential for hair damage and advise thorough research before undergoing such treatments.

Conclusion: Be Brainy About Your Beauty

In wrapping up, Perry and Valerie encourage listeners to stay informed and critical of beauty product claims. They emphasize the importance of scientific understanding in making informed beauty choices and invite listeners to support the podcast through Patreon for ad-free content and exclusive perks.

Valerie George:
"Remember, be brainy about your beauty." [43:08]

Notable Quotes

• Valerie George on Talc and Asbestos:
  "By the early 70s, a paper was published that the amount of asbestos in talc can be problematic." [07:51]

• Valerie George on PFAS in Cosmetics:
  "If you're using a product that self fizzes and bubbles on the skin, it's probably using a perfluorinated material that meets the legal criteria for a PFAS." [19:17]

• Perry Romanowski on Heat Protection:
  "The FDA advises against using self tanners around those areas unless the product specifically says you can use it there." [22:10]

• Valerie George on Skincare Routines:
  "The most important thing you can do for yourself is to get a routine. You can play around and add a serum if you want, but a basic routine is 80% of the battle." [35:52]

Final Thoughts

Episode 384 of The Beauty Brains offers a comprehensive exploration of current beauty industry issues, from regulatory changes and environmental impacts to practical skincare advice and skepticism of trendy treatments. Perry and Valerie's expert analysis empowers listeners to make educated decisions about the products they use, reinforcing the podcast's mission to bridge the gap between cosmetic science and consumer awareness.

For more insights and to support the show, listeners are encouraged to visit patreon.com/thebeautybrains and follow the hosts on their social media platforms.

Be brainy about your beauty!