The Beauty Brains: Episode 390 - Squalene, Micro-Needling, Misleading Labeling

Release Date: March 7, 2025

Welcome to Episode 390 of The Beauty Brains, where host Valerie George and cosmetic chemist Perry Romanowski delve into the science behind beauty products, answering listener questions and unpacking the latest industry trends. This episode covers a range of topics, including squalene, micro-needling, and the pitfalls of misleading product labeling.

1. Personal Chit-Chat

The episode kicks off with Valerie and Perry sharing personal anecdotes, setting a relaxed and relatable tone. Perry recounts his recent trip to Florida and a day spent at Disney World, highlighting the challenges of long road trips and amusement park adventures.

Notable Quote:

Valerie George [00:58]: "I’m usually the official bag holder of any trip."

2. Beauty News

a. Misleading Marketing and Ingredient Dosages

Valerie and Perry discuss an article from Cosmetic Business that criticizes beauty brands for emphasizing trendy ingredients without disclosing their actual concentrations. The lack of transparency leads consumers to misconceptions about product efficacy.

Key Points:

• Brands use vague terms like "infused with" or "powered by" to suggest potency.
• Regulations do not require disclosure of active ingredient percentages.
• Consumers often assume higher concentrations equate to better results, which isn't always the case.

Notable Quotes:

Valerie George [07:34]: "You can have a very low quantity of an ingredient. And more is not more. In fact, more doesn't do anything."

Perry Romanowski [09:15]: "Beauty labels are misleading you. They’re designed that way because they want you to buy stuff."

b. Tween Beauty Products Regulation

The conversation shifts to California's attempt to regulate products containing retinols and exfoliating acids, aiming to restrict their sale to individuals under 18. Valerie questions the feasibility of policing such regulations and debates the necessity of specialized teen skincare products.

Key Points:

• Kinside, an Australian company, is pioneering products tailored for teens and tweens.
• Valerie argues that numerous brands already offer suitable products without overcomplicating routines.
• Perry highlights how consumer habits have shifted, with younger generations desiring the latest trends influenced by social media.

Notable Quotes:

Valerie George [13:55]: "They're creating routines for skincare that teens don't need."

Perry Romanowski [15:24]: "Most products don't have high levels of exfoliating acids… They're influenced by social media to want these things that they probably don't need."

c. Top Amazon Beauty Brands

Valerie reviews an article on the top 10 Amazon beauty brands by market share, revealing surprising favorites like CeraVe, Nutrafol, and Cosrx. The discussion highlights how Amazon's platform influences brand visibility and consumer choices.

Key Points:

• CeraVe leads with high market share and extensive reviews.
• Brands like La Roche-Posay and Sol de Janeiro are notable for their popularity.
• The list reflects a mix of well-known and lesser-known brands, emphasizing Amazon's role in shaping beauty trends.

Notable Quotes:

Valerie George [15:47]: "Neutrogena has the top number of reviews at 1.9 million."

Perry Romanowski [16:42]: "Neutrogena is not. Neutrogena is just a drugstore brand."

3. Listener Questions and Feedback

a. Micro-Needling at Home vs. Dermatologist Treatments

Audrey from Canada inquires about the efficacy of at-home micro-needling systems compared to professional treatments.

Discussion:

• At-home micro-needling can enhance serum absorption but may lack the precision and depth of professional treatments.
• Valerie notes that while some users appreciate the convenience, dermatological procedures generally yield more significant and long-lasting results.
• Pricing is a consideration, with at-home systems costing around $119 per month for supplies.

Notable Quotes:

Valerie George [25:21]: "If you love the way your skin feels and looks after doing at home micro needling, a lot of people love it. That’s awesome. Do it."

Perry Romanowski [27:58]: "I've not seen any evidence that this micro needling adds some extra benefit to a serum that you're using. So I'm a little skeptical of it."

b. Understanding Squalene and Its Benefits

Karen from Canada seeks clarity on squalene and why her skin responds positively to products containing it. She also recommends Thrive Cosmetics' tubing mascara.

Discussion:

• Squalene vs. Squalane: Valerie clarifies that squalane is the more stable and commonly used form in cosmetics, often derived from olives or sugarcane through biotechnology.
• Squalane is a lightweight emollient that reduces water loss and maintains skin flexibility.
• The discussion touches on ethical sourcing, noting a shift away from animal-derived squalene.

Notable Quotes:

Valerie George [29:42]: "Squalane is amazing material because it's naturally found in our skin."

Perry Romanowski [32:22]: "Squalane is a really beautiful, lightweight emollient. I actually resell sugar cane derived squalene on my website."

Mascara Recommendation:

• Valerie expresses skepticism about Thrive Cosmetics' tubing mascara's claims but is open to trying it, highlighting the importance of consumer experiences over marketing.

Notable Quotes:

Valerie George [35:16]: "I actually do a presentation where I specifically use Thrive cosmetics as an example."

Perry Romanowski [35:30]: "We'll look forward to that in a future episode."

c. The Varied Effects of Menthol on Different Body Parts

Timothy, a long-time patron, asks why menthol-based products like Icy Hot seem less effective on his hands compared to his neck.

Discussion:

• The sensation of menthol varies across the body due to differing densities of thermoreceptors:

  • TRPM8 Receptors: Respond to cold sensations, densely packed in areas like the lips and face.
  • TRPV1 Receptors: Respond to heat, affecting areas differently based on receptor distribution.

• Skin thickness also plays a role, with thicker skin (e.g., palms) reducing sensitivity to menthol.

Notable Quotes:

Valerie George [36:56]: "Certain parts of your body… have way more exposed nerve endings, making them more sensitive."

Perry Romanowski [38:11]: "The distribution and sensitivity of these thermoreceptors… varies in different areas."

d. Differences Between Body Lotion/Cleanser and Face Lotion

Sammy inquires about the distinctions between body and face lotions and cleansers, and whether certain ingredients are unsuitable for the face.

Discussion:

• Formulation Similarities: Both body and facial cleansers use water as the main solvent, surfactants for cleansing, preservatives, fragrances, and other additives to enhance user experience.

• Key Differences:

  • Surfactant Strength: Facial cleansers typically use gentler surfactants to avoid over-drying sensitive facial skin.
  • Emulsifiers and Ingredients: Face lotions often contain more refined emulsifiers and higher-quality ingredients, catering to the nuanced needs of facial skin.
  • Occlusives: Body lotions may have higher levels of occlusive agents like petrolatum to cover larger skin areas, whereas facial lotions prioritize lighter textures to prevent heaviness.

• Psychological Factors: Packaging and labeling influence user perception, making products feel more specialized even if their chemical composition is similar.

Notable Quotes:

Valerie George [42:23]: "From a formulation perspective, no difference in the composition, but maybe differences in the concentrations or maybe the level of detergency."

Perry Romanowski [46:26]: "It’s one of those psychological things… the packaging and product naming has an impact on the way you perceive that a formula functions."

4. Conclusion and Announcements

Valerie and Perry wrap up the episode by encouraging listeners to leave reviews, submit questions, and support the podcast through Patreon. They also celebrate being listed as one of the top beauty podcasts by The New York Times.

Notable Quotes:

Valerie George [48:27]: "They are listed as the first in the top five beauty podcasts by the New York Times."

Perry Romanowski [50:15]: PK Clone's whimsical poem about PK's love for whipped cream dreams.

Final Thoughts

Episode 390 of The Beauty Brains offers a comprehensive exploration of contemporary beauty issues. From dissecting misleading marketing tactics to understanding the scientific nuances of skincare ingredients, Valerie and Perry provide valuable insights for both enthusiasts and casual consumers. Their balanced approach—combining personal anecdotes with expert analysis—ensures that listeners are both informed and engaged.

For more information, follow The Beauty Brains on Instagram, X (formerly Twitter), Blue Sky, Facebook, and TikTok. To support the show and gain access to exclusive content, consider becoming a patron at patreon.com/forward/thebeautybrains.

Remember, be brainy about your beauty!