Podcast Summary: The Beauty Brains – Episode 397: Heat Protectants, Protein, and Sunburns

Release Date: May 31, 2025

Hosts: Valerie George and Perry Romanowski

Introduction

In Episode 397 of The Beauty Brains, Valerie George and Perry Romanowski delve into a variety of beauty science topics, addressing listener questions and discussing recent industry news. This episode covers the effectiveness of heat protectants, the validity of protein buildup claims, the handling of sunburned skin, and more. The hosts provide expert insights to help listeners make informed decisions about their beauty routines.

News Highlights

1. Breakthrough in Hair Growth Proteins

Valerie and Perry discuss a recent study claiming the discovery of a "protector protein" capable of revitalizing hair follicles and promoting hair growth.

• Perry Romanowski expresses skepticism:

  "It just sounds incredible to me." [05:01]

• Valerie George elaborates on the complexity of hair loss and the challenges of translating animal research to human applications:

  "This is really a drug claim... we’re a long ways away from having anything meaningful come out of it." [06:03]

They conclude that while the research is promising, practical applications in cosmetics are unlikely in the near future due to regulatory and scientific hurdles.

2. Lawsuit Against Major Hair Dye Brands

The hosts examine a lawsuit filed in Los Angeles County targeting prominent hair dye manufacturers like L'Oréal, Wella, and Clairol. The plaintiffs allege that prolonged occupational exposure to these dyes contributed to bladder cancer.

• Valerie George challenges the lawsuit's validity:

  "These impurities are also really highly regulated... Why weren't they wearing gloves?" [08:26]

• Perry Romanowski adds:

  "You don't want to call me to be an expert witness, Perry." [09:32]

They emphasize that there is no evidence linking standard hair dye usage to cancer and suspect the lawsuit may be financially motivated.

3. Social Media's Influence on Cosmeceutical Trends

The episode addresses the resurgence of the term "cosmeceuticals" and its propagation through social media platforms like TikTok.

• Perry Romanowski notes the challenges of misinformation:

  "Anybody can say anything they want on these social media sources. And oftentimes it's just not true information." [12:23]

• Valerie George discusses the persistence of marketing terms:

  "The term cosmeceuticals is back. Didn't we stop using that 15 years ago?" [13:21]

They highlight the importance of relying on trusted sources amidst the flood of unverified beauty claims online.

4. Huda Beauty Setting Spray Controversy

Valerie and Perry dissect a case where Huda Beauty faced scrutiny for making unverified claims about their setting spray being the "strongest ever."

• Valerie George explains the investigation process:

  "If they had the proof, they would have fought it." [18:04]

• Perry Romanowski connects it to influencer marketing:

  "They did send free products. That's a sign of endorsement." [20:10]

The hosts underscore the implications of influencer partnerships and the necessity for brands to substantiate their product claims.

Listener Questions

1. Re-Emulsifying Separated Products (Dasha) [23:16]

Question:
Dasha, a biochemistry and molecular biology student, inquires about a separated Avene Cicaflate Plus product, specifically the composition of its aqueous and solid layers, the benefits of using just the solid layer, and methods to re-emulsify the product.

Discussion:

• Perry Romanowski compares the separation to natural products like natural peanut butter, suggesting vigorous shaking or transferring to another container as potential solutions.

• Valerie George analyzes the product's composition, identifying ingredients like zinc oxide and various waxes that contribute to the separation. She recommends:

  "Cut open the top of the tube, stir it, and then transfer it to another container." [28:00]

• They advise contacting the manufacturer for a replacement and highlighting the importance of product integrity.

2. Treating Sunburn and Adjusting Skincare Routines (Louise) [28:38]

Question:
Louise from Ottawa seeks advice on treating sunburned skin, particularly concerning the stinging sensation from certain products and how long to postpone her regular skincare routine, which includes retinoids and vitamin C serums.

Discussion:

• Valerie George recommends using lightweight products to allow the skin to release heat, avoiding heavy creams that trap heat and exacerbate redness. She suggests:

  "Postpone moisturizers and switch to super lightweight serums until the redness and sensitivity subside." [32:37]

• The hosts agree that retinoids and exfoliating acids should be avoided during the healing process to prevent further irritation. They recommend:

  "Wait at least a week before resuming your regular skincare routine." [34:45]

3. Matching Conditioners with Shampoos (Laura) [35:05]

Question:
Laura asks about the necessity of using a matching conditioner with L'Oréal's El Vive Rapid Reviver Conditioner, which claims to be suitable for daily use without a leave-in time.

Discussion:

• Valerie George acknowledges the marketing appeal but emphasizes that:

  "Any conditioner generally doesn't require a long leave-in time. Most conditioners provide similar benefits regardless of pairing with a specific shampoo." [36:06]

• Perry Romanowski critiques the lack of exceptional ingredients supporting the "power conditioner" claim:

  "It's all marketing mumbo jumbo because most conditioners perform similarly." [37:17]

They conclude that while L'Oréal's conditioner is effective, the matching with specific shampoos is primarily a marketing strategy.

4. Effectiveness of Heat Protectants (Sophia) [39:33]

Question:
Sophia questions the quantifiable effectiveness of heat protectants, pondering whether a 10% reduction in damage justifies their use over time.

Discussion:

• Valerie George references a 2011 study demonstrating up to a 76% reduction in hair breakage when using specific polymers as heat protectants:

  "Even a 10% reduction in damage is beneficial because the damage accumulates over time." [45:29]

• Perry Romanowski explains the methodology of such studies, noting the bias towards positive results in published research:

  "If the product didn't work, you wouldn’t know about it." [42:22]

They affirm that consistent use of effective heat protectants can significantly mitigate cumulative hair damage from styling tools.

5. Hydrolyzed Protein Buildup on Hair (Melissa) [47:29]

Question:
Melissa, a moderator on a hair care science subreddit, inquires about the possibility of hydrolyzed proteins building up on hair, leading to heaviness and rigidity due to repeated applications.

Discussion:

• Valerie George acknowledges that excessive use of hydrolyzed proteins can lead to buildup, especially if products aren't alternated to give hair a break:

  "If every product you use contains a lot of protein and you’re not cleansing thoroughly, buildup is likely." [51:33]

• Perry Romanowski counters that while some buildup is possible, it’s typically not as noticeable as oil-based accumulations:

  "It’s hard to say, and you might not notice this buildup compared to sebum." [53:23]

They recommend balancing protein treatments with regular cleansing to prevent any negative effects on hair texture and manageability.

Conclusion

In this episode, Valerie and Perry address critical aspects of hair care and skincare, providing evidence-based advice and debunking common myths. They emphasize the importance of understanding product ingredients, the limitations of marketing claims, and the necessity of balancing beauty routines to maintain optimal skin and hair health. Listeners gain valuable insights into the practical applications of beauty science, empowering them to make informed choices in their daily routines.

Notable Quotes:

• “Even if it's like 10% less hair damage, I would say it's worth using one than not using one.” — Valerie George [45:29]

• “Anybody can say anything they want on these social media sources. And oftentimes it's just not true information.” — Perry Romanowski [12:23]

• “You don't have to be worried that your hair color is gonna give you cancer. There's no evidence of that.” — Valerie George [11:17]

**Listeners are encouraged to visit The Beauty Brains Patreon for additional content and to support the show. For more questions and insights, follow The Beauty Brains on their social media platforms.

Be Brainy About Your Beauty.