Podcast Summary: The Beauty Brains – Episode 413

Title: Hair Bond Builders and More
Release Date: December 4, 2025
Hosts: Valerie George & Perry Romanowski

Main Theme or Purpose

This episode of The Beauty Brains, hosted by cosmetic chemists Valerie George and Perry Romanowski, tackles common questions from listeners about hair and skin science, focusing on hair bond-building products, ingredient efficacy, and cosmetic safety. The show centers around demystifying product claims, scientific studies on hair repair technologies, and practical tips for consumers seeking to protect their hair and make informed beauty choices.

Key Discussion Points and Insights

1. Understanding "Bond Builders" in Haircare

• Study Overview: The hosts discuss a recent, much-circulated study comparing two popular commercial “bond builders": Olaplex and K18.
• Study Design: Researchers created extra damaged hair tresses via over-bleaching, then applied either Olaplex No.0 or the K18 Molecular Repair Mask, measuring results using advanced analytical methods (SEM, Raman spectroscopy, DSC, etc.) ([05:57–11:32]).
• Findings:
  • Olaplex appeared to act internally, increasing tensile strength by 48% and improving hair brightness by 34%. The mechanism is presumed to involve bonding with free sulfur groups inside the hair.
  • K18 functioned more as a surface conditioner, improving hair’s visible smoothness (tensile strength up 20%), but not altering internal bonds as per the study’s measurements.
  • Critique: The hosts note the study’s major limitations, including lack of proper controls (such as plain conditioners or water), testing only one-use application, and a narrow focus on extremely damaged Caucasian bleached hair.
  • Scientific Skepticism: Valerie and Perry express skepticism about claims of "disulfide bond rebuilding," highlighting the role of product conditioning ingredients as the more likely source of "felt" hair improvement.

Quote:

"The bottom line for me...is I’m not convinced these products really create extra bonds in the hair that substantially affect the strength...the fact that they still use conditioning ingredients tells me you’re mostly getting good conditioning."
— Perry ([17:03])

Quote:

"It is extremely difficult and almost nearly impossible to rebuild disulfide bonds as they were in hair...what consumers actually feel is the conditioning element, not the hair bonds being rebuilt."
— Valerie ([20:29])

2. Barrier Repair in Skincare vs. Hair Repair

• Valerie was quoted in a Science Direct article about skin barrier repair.
• Key Difference: Skin has biological "barrier repair" capability (restoring lipids, improving microbial environment), while hair, being dead tissue, cannot truly be "repaired"—only conditioned or temporarily patched ([03:32–04:47]).

Quote:

"With hair, you can make it feel better, but the damage is done. It’s like fabric. But with skin, it’s very dynamic, constantly evolving."
— Valerie ([04:00])

3. Listener Questions: In-Depth Answers

A. Ingredient Efficacy & "Sprinkling"

• How can consumers tell if ‘featured’ ingredients are used at effective levels?
• The hosts explain that percentages rarely matter to consumer effectiveness. Many potent ingredients (like peptides or ceramides) work at very low levels. Ultimately, product efficacy should be judged on clinical testing, not inky cosmetic lists ([24:57–29:22]).

Quote:

"There are so many ingredients that are used at very tiny levels but have a lot of clinical support and efficacy. Peptides are an example."
— Valerie ([27:34])

B. Heatless Curls and Hair Damage

• Are overnight heatless curls damaging?
• Conclusion: This method is considerably less damaging than heat styling (like curling irons). Any minor "wear and tear" from manipulation is negligible ([30:49–35:26]), and use of light styling products can help hold curls.

Quote:

"From a damage perspective, I think it’s definitely way less damaging to the hair than a thermal device."
— Valerie ([34:00])

C. Direct Dye Hair Color (e.g., Milkshake Direct Color) Claims

• Is Milkshake Direct Color damaging or misleading in its claims?
• These are semi-permanent dyes that stain the hair surface, not entering or modifying the hair’s internal structure. Their claims are typical for this category, and not misleading, but such products are generally unsuitable for effective gray coverage ([36:21–42:18]).

Quote:

"This is a surface level product....I don’t recommend this technology for gray coverage."
— Valerie ([41:50])

D. Use of Cyclotetrasiloxane in Hair Sprays

• Why would a brand use a controversial ingredient like cyclotetrasiloxane?
• The EU restricts it due to potential human and environmental risks, but other geographies (US, Canada) deem it safe under typical usage. Regulatory disagreement drives its continued use outside the EU. Brands may not have strong in-house R&D or are using contract manufacturers ([43:11–50:06]).

Quote:

"Not everyone agrees it’s a dangerous health issue...the US, Canada, Australia don’t have the same opinion as the EU."
— Valerie ([44:01])

E. Formulating Conditioning Hair Color

• Can hair color products also function as masks?
• Conditioning agents (especially in alkaline hair color systems) compete for the same hair binding sites and may block/impede color uptake. Most brands focus on aftercare conditioners due to these incompatibilities ([50:22–52:44]).

Quote:

"You can make a hair color that also can condition...It won’t be a very good hair color."
— Valerie ([51:02])

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments (with Timestamps)

• On patents and hair science:

  "You can get a patent for lots of things. They don’t have to work."
  — Valerie ([10:22])

• On evaluating product efficacy:

  "At the end of the day, the clinical testing...on the product as a whole is what matters—is the product working or not?"
  — Valerie ([28:29])

• On marketing claims:

  "Companies write things in a way where a consumer will have a different takeaway than what they're actually saying."
  — Perry ([40:42])

Important Segment Timestamps

• 03:27 – Valerie’s mention in Science Direct about barrier repair
• 05:44 – Deep dive into hair bond builders and breakdown of the recent study
• 24:57 – Listener questions segment begins
• 30:49 – Heatless curls and hair damage
• 36:21 – Analysis of Milkshake Direct Color and direct dye technology
• 43:11 – Cyclotetrasiloxane in hair sprays and regulatory discussion
• 50:22 – Formulating hair color that conditions

Tone and Style

• The conversation is inquisitive and gently skeptical, blending scientific rigor with practical consumer insight. The humor is light, and both hosts bring personal experience and technical understanding—making even complex chemistry engaging and relatable.

Overall Takeaways

• Be skeptical of marketing claims—many rely on ambiguity rather than outright deception.
• Conditioning is the primary source of the “repaired” feel in most hair products—don’t expect miracles from bond builder products.
• Ingredient percentages aren’t always meaningful for product performance; look instead for evidence of careful clinical studies.
• Direct dyes are gentle in terms of structural effects but not effective for gray coverage.
• Regulations on cosmetic ingredients vary widely between the EU, US, and other regions; what’s “dangerous” in one area might be acceptable elsewhere.

For further questions or direct product concerns, Valerie and Perry invite listeners to reach out via their website, Patreon, or social media accounts (see end of transcript).