Episode Overview

Podcast: The Beauty Brains
Episode: Heat protectants, red light, antioxidants and more (Episode 412)
Date: November 26, 2025
Hosts: Perry Romanowski & Valerie George
Theme:
Real cosmetic chemists answer listener questions about beauty product efficacy—from heat protectants to red light therapy, luxury cream pricing, home remedies for skin irritation, and antioxidant balms. The episode provides evidence-based insights to help consumers make informed beauty decisions and avoid marketing hype.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Longevity and Effectiveness of Heat Protectants

Question (19:03): Does a heat protectant applied one day last through subsequent styling sessions, like using a curling iron two days after blow drying?

• Valerie (20:16):
  • "It really depends what the heat protectant is... Some silicones like amodimethicone are attracted to hair and can last through a couple washes... but not all formulas are the same."
  • Heat protectant longevity hinges on the nature of the film former (polymer/silicone), degree of hair exposure to friction, and whether the product is leave-on or rinse-off.
  • Environmental wear (e.g., wearing hats, going outside) can break the protective film faster.
• Perry (21:11):
  • "I wouldn't imagine it's lasting much longer than a day or two... better to reapply."
• Consensus: For safety and better efficacy, it’s best to reapply a dedicated leave-in heat protectant before each heat styling session, as the level and type of active ingredients vary between rinse-offs and leave-ins.
• Notable Quote:
  • Valerie (23:05): "Because heat is so damaging, it's just better to be safer than sorry."

2. Red Light Therapy Mask Brand Comparisons (Luna vs. Omnilux)

Question (24:38): Are Instagram claims about Luna red light mask efficacy versus Omnilux accurate?

• Valerie (25:39):
  • Critiques viral experiment comparing two masks with vinyl sheets: "My question is, how do we know the vinyl only reacted to red light?... It’s eye-catching but doesn’t tell us the whole story."
• Perry (26:44):
  • "Omnilux uses red light at 633nm and near-infrared at 830nm... Dermatology does show these can help—with mild effects on photoaging, nothing dramatic, and protocols vary widely. Hard to say if a specific mask will mirror research results."
• Valerie (28:26):
  • "Bottom line, based on this experiment, I don't think one is better than the other... Consumer comfort and actually using the device regularly is more important."
• Recommendation: Check credible consumer reviews and prioritize device comfort and consistent use over flashy marketing or “internet experiments.” Differences between masks are unlikely to produce noticeably different results for most users.
• Notable Quote:
  • Perry (29:27): "I really think it's hard to notice anything using these red lights anyway that you'll notice a difference between two similar ones."

3. Why are Luxury Creams (e.g., Augustinus Bader Rich Cream) So Expensive?

Question (30:07): Why is the Rich Cream so expensive, and are there comparable alternatives?

• Valerie (31:12):
  • "What you’re primarily paying for is the brand image. $305 for 1.7oz... automatically people are going to say, 'this is a luxury product.'"
  • Custom packaging, clinical positioning, and celebrity doctor associations elevate cost, not necessarily ingredient expense.
• Perry (33:04):
  • Breaks down the numbers: "Even if the true cost including packaging is $50 a pound, it’s not $190 an ounce."
• On Ingredients:
  • Standard emollients (e.g., sunflower, coconut, shea butter), some peptides, but the actives are typically present at very low concentrations.
  • No clear evidence that high-price ingredients are present at high enough levels to justify the price.
  • Clinical studies typically measure the finished product versus a control, not just the hero ingredient, and improvements are rarely dramatic unless judged by user satisfaction.
• Comparable Products:
  • New “Dua” line co-created with Dua Lipa uses similar technology at lower price points.
• Notable Quotes:
  • Perry (33:14): "The cost is most likely not in the ingredients; it's the marketing."
  • Valerie (37:23): “These are pretty standard, run-of-the-mill skincare ingredients...”

4. Can You Substitute Rubbing Alcohol for Aftershave Products like Tend Skin?

Question (37:43): Can regular rubbing alcohol substitute for Tend Skin in preventing itching and ingrowns after shaving?

• Perry (38:43):
  • "If you just use isopropyl alcohol, you’re missing humectants, cyclomethicone, glycerin—and the acetyl salicylic acid... definitely a difference in feel and function."
• Valerie (39:19):
  • "Salicylic acid not only exfoliates but is oil soluble and helps with irritation... it works even at neutral pH."
• Consensus: Rubbing alcohol alone is not a suitable alternative. The additional ingredients in Tend Skin (salicylic acid, humectants, silicones) soothe skin, exfoliate, and maintain moisture balance, beyond simple sterilization.
• Notable Quote:
  • Perry (39:47): "I gotta say, I don't think it's a suitable substitute just using rubbing alcohol."

5. Antioxidant Absorption from Balm Formulas (Drunk Elephant Wonderwild Balm)

Question (40:58): Will antioxidants in Wonderwild Balm absorb into skin or stay on top?

• Valerie (42:15):
  • Most “antioxidants” in balms are natural oil components like vitamin E, which exist in very low concentrations.
  • These molecules are often consumed stabilizing the product during shelf life rather than providing impactful skin benefits.
• Perry (44:30):
  • “If there are antioxidants in the oils, they’re not going to get deep into the skin. They stay on top—in the stratum corneum (outer dead layers).”
• Conclusion: These products provide surface moisturizing and protection; any antioxidant activity is minor and limited to the outermost skin. Don't expect systemic antioxidant effects from a balm.
• Notable Quote:
  • Perry (44:30): “...they’re gonna stay on top... in the stratum corneum, not getting down into the body.”

Additional Memorable Moments & Notable Quotes

• On Reapplying Heat Protectants:
  • Valerie (23:05): “Because heat is so damaging, it's just better to be safer than sorry.”
• On AI and "Sameness" in Beauty Product Innovation:
  • Perry (13:17): “There’s a worry we’ll get to a point where the products are not differentiated at all except through marketing stories.”
• On Ingredient Costs in Skincare:
  • Valerie (34:09): “...Evonik quoted $1 million per kilo for a special ceramide ingredient—sometimes prices are set just to keep people from buying.”

Timestamps for Important Segments

| Time | Segment | |------|---------| | 00:38 | Episode preview of questions/topics | | 08:57 | News: Augustinus Bader x Dua Lipa affordable line | | 12:24 | AI, innovation & “sameness” in cosmetics | | 16:51 | Listener feedback: Team Valerie vs. Team Perry | | 19:03 | Q1: Heat protectant longevity | | 24:38 | Q2: Red light therapy masks (Luna vs. Omnilux) | | 30:07 | Q3: The true cost of luxury creams | | 37:43 | Q4: Can rubbing alcohol replace aftershave solutions? | | 41:11 | Q5: Do antioxidant balms absorb into skin? |

Episode Tone

The conversation is playful, approachable, and grounded in scientific skepticism. The hosts’ chemistry is friendly and humorous, with candid asides about lab mishaps, personal lives, and cat adventures. They balance myth-busting with an encouraging tone: “be brainy about your beauty.” The overall message emphasizes rational skepticism, intelligent product choices, and a critical eye toward marketing.

Final Thought

Valerie: “Remember, be brainy about your beauty.” (47:54)

For more, check out the Beauty Brains, and if you have questions, send them in for future episodes!