Podcast Summary: The Beauty Brains, Episode 407

Title: Sunscreen scandals, Busted celebrity brands & beauty questions answered
Hosts: Perry Romanowski & Valerie George
Air Date: October 4, 2025

Overview

In this engaging episode, Perry and Valerie, both seasoned cosmetic chemists, return after a brief hiatus to tackle hot topics in beauty news and answer a slew of listeners’ scientific beauty questions. Key discussions center on new cosmetic ingredient bans, the latest sunscreen testing scandals, the reality behind closing celebrity beauty brands, and the science of trending skincare ingredients and tools. The duo delivers critical, insider perspectives, peppered with wit, transparency, and relatable anecdotes.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Beauty News: Regulation and Industry Shifts

Washington State Bans Formaldehyde Donors in Cosmetics

• What Happened: Washington will be the first U.S. state to ban 25 formaldehyde-releasing chemicals in cosmetics (effective Jan 2027), extending its 2023 Toxic Free Cosmetics Act. Sell-through allowed until end of 2027.
• Expert Perspective:
  • Valerie questions the health rationale:

    “A lot of people use these preservatives. They're used safely. They've been used for decades…there would be more formaldehyde in a banana.” (06:23)

  • Perry points out regulatory chaos and doubts true improvement in safety:

    “It just makes it seem like they're doing something. It's just like the theater safety.” (07:35)

• Concerns:
  • Replacement preservatives may be less studied, more expensive, and/or cause skin irritation.
  • Regulatory patchwork complicates manufacturing and may not benefit consumers.
• [05:02 - 09:57]

EU Bans TPO (Trimethylbenzyl Diphenyl Phosphine Oxide) in Gel Nail Polishes

• Reason: Classified as a reproductive toxin, based mostly on rat studies involving oral ingestion (not real-world use).
• Perspective:
  • Perry: No evidence of real harm at cosmetic exposure levels.
  • Valerie (after consulting nail expert Doug Schoon): Actual human risk is “extremely low, negligible.”
• Contrast:
  • EU = hazard-based (ban over minimal risk), US = risk-based (ban after demonstrated harm).
• [11:47 - 15:29]

AI and Beauty: ChatGPT Opens Marketplace

• Issue: ChatGPT will now recommend products, but only from brands that pay to be listed.
• Hosts' View: Both dislike potential for bias—Valerie calls it “like ChatGPT taking advertisements.” Perry parallels it to the ad overload on Google.
• [09:57 - 11:47]

Celebrity Brand Closures

• Who's Out: Drew Barrymore’s Flower Beauty and Kim Kardashian’s Skin by Kim.
• Reflection: Perry is surprised about Kim’s brand ("You would think she could have kept that going"), but both agree that the cycle of launching and folding celebrity lines was predictable.
• [22:10 - 23:25]

2. Scientific Listener Q&A

(a) Is the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology reliable (for peptide product claims)? [24:36]

• Concern: A listener questions the reliability of peptides after seeing a company-sponsored study in this open-access journal.
• Hosts’ Take:
  • The Journal is peer-reviewed, reputable (published by Wiley), but open access means brands can pay to publish, possibly lowering rigor.
  • Valerie:

    “Now I will say I do believe in peptides. If they can get into the skin…I guess it depends on the price of the product because it couldn't hurt to try. But I definitely wouldn't go broke looking for it.” (26:36)

  • Perry:

    “I'm skeptical that peptides are going to get down to the spot at enough quantity to have an impact.” (27:08)

• [24:36 - 28:52]

(b) Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (Vitamin C Derivative)—Does Cheap Mean Weak? [29:02]

• Product: VaniCream’s Vitamin C cream, $17.99.
• Insight:
  • Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a pricey, oil-soluble vitamin C ester, accepted as a quasi-drug for pigmentation in Asia, often efficacious at ~3%.
  • It’s unlikely this affordable cream uses a high (effective) dose; likely closer to ~0.1% (minimal collagen benefit per supplier, but probably not skin-brightening).
• Expert Tip: Look for products disclosing percentages; DIY options at reputable ingredient suppliers are an alternative.
• [29:02 - 33:17]

(c) Does Topical Estrogen Improve Skin? [33:49—Audio]

• Listener's Experience: HRT improved her skin; wonders about topical estrogen’s effectiveness and safety.
• Science:
  • Topical estrogen can penetrate skin (molecular weight <500 Dalton) and is used in prescription formulations, but systemic safety is a concern.
  • Valerie advises using only under physician guidance:

    “I just wouldn't do it for skin beauty. I would do it for health reasons.” (36:00)

• [33:49 - 38:38]

(d) Do At-Home Microneedling Devices Work? Hypochlorous Spray—Worth Using? [38:58—Audio]

• At-Home Vs. Pro: Home devices only reach upper epidermis vs. pro devices (which can remodel collagen in the dermis).
  • Valerie:

    “It does help ingredients get in a little bit more, but it doesn't necessarily play a role, in my opinion, in the collagen remodeling and wound healing aspect.” (41:28)

• Ingredients: Microneedling helps penetration of certain actives (like exosomes, which don’t typically reach the skin via topical application).
• Hypochlorous Spray: Used as a post-procedure antibacterial. Valerie is skeptical of typical over-the-counter sprays but recommends ensuring clean tools and practices.
• [38:58 - 44:57]

(e) Are Salon Detanglers Special? [46:36]

• Case: Listener loves $48 CAD Unite Seven Seconds Detangler; wonders if drugstore brands with similar ingredients work as well.
• Breakdown:
  • Main actives are common: cetrimonium chloride (detangling), amodimethicone (conditioning), and behentrimonium methosulfate.
  • Perry:

    “From a performance standpoint, there's no way this product works better than what Pantene is going to get…” (47:56)

• Regulatory Note: Unite’s formula contains cyclotetrasiloxane, which will be banned in CA sprays beginning 2026 due to inhalation risk.
  • Valerie:

    “You don't want to inhale cyclotetrasiloxane or cyclopentisiloxane…Just take it out.” (49:06/50:18)

• [46:36 - 50:24]

Notable Quotes

• Valerie on regulation:

  “They're unfairly targeting cosmetic products.” (07:14)

• Perry on industry ‘clean’ trends:

  “We're replacing [preservatives] with stuff that we don't know how well it works or how safe it is.” (07:45)

• Valerie on celebrity brands:

  “Actually, no launches. One of our predictions that brands would actually be closing is coming true.” (22:12)

• On hype vs. science in skincare:

  Perry: “As a consumer you usually just notice if it’s moisturizing and it feels good to put on. You think your skin is better.” (27:08)

Timestamps for Major Segments

• [00:00 – 05:00] – Catching up, industry events, and trip anecdotes
• [05:00 – 16:40] – Beauty news (ingredient bans in US/EU, ChatGPT marketplace)
• [16:40 – 22:10] – Sunscreen SPF scandal in Australia
• [22:10 – 23:25] – Celebrity beauty brand closures
• [24:36 – 28:52] – Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology: Can you trust peptide product studies?
• [29:02 – 33:17] – Vitamin C derivatives: potency, cost, and consumer expectations
• [33:49 – 38:38] – Topical estrogen and skin: science and safety
• [38:58 – 44:57] – At-home microneedling devices & hypochlorous spray
• [46:36 – 50:24] – Salon vs. drugstore detanglers: Ingredient and efficacy comparison

Memorable Moments

• Sunscreen Scandal:

  “They claim it 50 and it had a four.” (17:58, Perry on the Ultraviolet SPF recall)

• Regulatory Irony:

  “You're banning these minuscule things…and then you're smoking [in Europe].” (15:31, Perry)

• Consumer Skepticism:

  “If you want to be safe, use products from big companies.” (21:28, Perry, on SPF trust)

• Lighthearted Chemistry Banter:

  “Your pH together is perfect.” (34:53, Ivy, listener)

Tone & Style

The hosts maintain their signature friendly, slightly irreverent tone, with a blend of hard science, consumer advocacy, honesty about industry hype, and banter that makes complex cosmetic topics accessible and fun. They encourage critical thinking and often provide practical buying advice.

For anyone seeking the science behind beauty products—this episode is a goldmine of clarity, myth-busting insights, and tips on navigating a confusing, ever-evolving cosmetics marketplace.