The Beauty Brains – Episode 409: "Why did they change their formula?"

Release Date: October 20, 2025
Hosts: Perry Romanowski & Valerie George
Theme: Real cosmetic chemists answer listener questions on product reformulation, ingredient mysteries, and science-backed beauty advice.

Episode Overview

In this engaging installment, Perry and Valerie—two industry cosmetic chemists—tackle a range of listener questions about product reformulation, ingredient interactions, trusted resources for learning cosmetic science, ingredient mysteries (like what stains a shirt), and the suitability of CBD face oils for sensitive skin. The tone is warm, witty, and conversational, with a strong focus on demystifying beauty product science for everyday consumers.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Why Do Companies Reformulate Products?

[16:42 – 19:55]
Listener Anjali asks about the Murad Oil Control Mattifier reformulation and suggests it no longer works for oily skin after being acquired by Unilever and having an increase in SPF.

• Industry Insight:
  • Reformulations often follow company acquisitions. The acquiring company (in this case, Unilever) may wish to update formulas, move manufacturing, or align with broader regulations and economies of scale.
  • Higher SPF (increased from 15 to 50) leads to more oily, heavy-feeling products because sunscreen filters by nature are oily or greasy.
  • Reformulation may also be driven by marketing or consumer demand for higher SPF, sometimes at the cost of original product performance.
  • Companies "mostly buy the name, not usually buying the technology." (A, 17:48).

Quote [19:00]:
"Sunscreen filters are intrinsically very oily feeling... If you increase SPF from 15 to 50, you're gonna notice that increase in heaviness and oiliness big time." — Valerie

• Advice:
  • Lower SPF products will feel lighter and less greasy.
  • It's difficult to recommend a replacement; personal feel is crucial.

2. Can Sleek & Volumizing Hair Products Cancel Each Other Out?

[20:15 – 22:57]

Listener Heidi asks whether using both sleeking and volumizing products simultaneously causes a conflict.

• Scientific Take:

  • Sleeking and volumizing products have conflicting mechanisms: one weighs hair down, the other tries to lift it.
  • Effects depend on where and in which order products are applied.
  • "It's hard to say that these would be canceling each other out. They are sort of conflicting, competing with each other." (A, 21:44)

• Pro Tip:

  • Apply sleeking products to mid-lengths/ends for smoothness, and volumizing stylers at the roots if you want both effects.
  • Volume is a style property and can be achieved at the roots even with sleek ends (B, 22:33).

3. Trusted Cosmetic Science Resources

[23:19 – 27:37]

Chloe, an esthetician, seeks recommendations for books or sources to educate herself about cosmetic chemistry.

• Top Suggestions:
  • Chemists Corner (Perry’s site):
    Offers the course "Practical Cosmetic Formulating," beginner-friendly for non-chemists.
  • Institute of Personal Care Science (Belinda Carley):
    YouTube channel with accessible chemistry explanations, though aimed at practitioners.
  • Critical Thinking:
    Beware of bias—many online resources are tied to marketers or suppliers; always check the source.

Quote [26:55]:
"A lot of what's published online is created in conjunction with or by marketers of products... Sometimes that information could be good, but a lot of times that information is also misleading." — Perry

• Idea:
  • The hosts consider creating a new online course for consumers if interest is high.

4. Ingredient Mystery: Hair Product Staining Shirts

[28:22 – 32:20]

Sammy notices a grayish stain in the shape of hair strands on shirts after using Redken One United or TRESemme Heat Protectant.

• Investigation:
  • Both products have fairly innocuous INCI lists.
  • The Redken product contains Viola odorata (floral extract) that may oxidize and stain fabrics.
  • No obvious ingredient (like dyes or metals) jumped out.

Quote [29:53]:
"Well, I would say, yeah, they were heavily inspired [by another product]. Ingredient for ingredient, pretty much." — Valerie

- Silicones and polyquats in haircare are generally inert and unlikely to cause staining.
- Suggestion for a practical experiment: Try each product separately on each half of the hair (or sprayed on fabric) to isolate the cause.
- Color-treated hair could also be leaching pigment onto fabric when wet.

Quote [32:18]:
"These products, maybe they're heavily fragranced... but they could be leaching some of the colorant out." — Valerie

5. CBD Oil for Sensitive Skin and Acne

[32:39 – 36:49]

Kimberly asks if Avon's Green Goddess CBD Face Oil is suitable for sensitive or acne-prone skin.

• Scientific Insight:
  • The amount of CBD is likely minuscule unless a numerical claim is made.
  • CBD has anti-inflammatory properties in theory, but clinical evidence as an anti-acne agent is weak—no FDA approval.
  • The resinous/tacky nature of CBD restricts usage level in face oil formulas.
  • Whether face oils cause acne depends on the specific oil and individual skin type—not all oils are comedogenic.

Quote [35:29]:
"That is one of the suggested benefits of CBD oil is that it might be good for inflammation and be an anti acne product. There is no good evidence that that is the case." — Perry

- Advice: Try patch testing first; proven acne actives (benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid) are preferable as first-line treatments.
- Beware of confusing improvement due to natural healing with actual product benefit.

Quote [36:46]:
"But you know, acne is one of those things where... the acne might go away in like a week and if you don't do anything, maybe it'll go away in seven days." — Perry

6. Other Highlights

Beauty News

[05:29 – 12:19]

• Pycnogenol (French maritime pine bark extract) resurfaces in headlines as the latest “it” antioxidant.
  • Both hosts express skepticism about miracle claims (“just another antioxidant in a very crowded forest” — A, 08:25).
• K-beauty clinical trials in South Korea spark discussion after a spike in reported trial injuries; massive growth in cosmetic registrations noted.
  • Hosts stress most reactions are mild and volunteer participants are often paid.

Sunscreen Lab Testing Controversies

[12:20 – 14:04]

• Updates on international SPF testing inconsistencies and “shenanigans” where some products advertised SPF 50 but tested as low as SPF 4.

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On reformulation and acquisitions:

  "Mostly they're just buying the name, not usually buying the technology." — Perry [17:48]

• On industry ingredient hype:

  "It's just another antioxidant in a very crowded forest." — Perry [08:25]

• On layering conflicting hair products:

  "It's hard to have like a really high volumized sleek hair, I would guess, right?" — Perry [22:01]

• On distinguishing real science from marketing:

  "A lot of what's published online is created in conjunction with or by marketers of products... Sometimes that information could be good, but a lot of times that information is also misleading." — Perry [26:55]

• On CBD for acne:

  "There is no good evidence that that is the case." — Perry [35:29]

• On the wisdom of waiting:

  "But you know, acne is one of those things where... the acne might go away in like a week and if you don't do anything, maybe it'll go away in seven days." — Perry [36:46]

Timestamps for Important Segments

• [05:29] – Beauty News: Pycnogenol and K-Beauty clinical safety
• [12:20] – Sunscreen testing controversies
• [16:42] – Why do companies reformulate products? (Murad speculation)
• [20:15] – Layering sleek and volumizing hair products
• [23:19] – Where to learn more about cosmetic science
• [28:22] – Hair product staining investigation
• [32:39] – CBD face oil for sensitive and acne-prone skin

Episode Tone

Conversational, light, self-deprecating humor, and focused on demystifying beauty product science for everyday listeners. The hosts make science approachable, regularly teasing each other, and share stories from industry and personal life for context.

In Summary

This episode is a goldmine for anyone curious about the scientific "why" behind their favorite products changing, what really happens when you layer expectantly conflicting haircare routines, and how to find real, non-marketing-based science resources. Listener questions steer the show for maximum relevance, and the back-and-forth banter ensures entertainment factor stays high. For cosmetic and skincare enthusiasts, The Beauty Brains continues to set the standard for accessible, myth-busting science.