The Business of Fashion Podcast: Guy Berryman on Merging Music and Fashion
Episode Release Date: March 28, 2025
Introduction
In this compelling episode of The Business of Fashion Podcast, host Imran Ahmed engages in an insightful conversation with Guy Berryman, the bassist of the globally renowned band Coldplay and the founder of the clothing label Applied Artforms. Guy delves into his unique journey from engineering and music to fashion, highlighting the parallels between creating music and designing clothing.
Personal Journey into Fashion
Early Life and Education
Guy Berryman began his journey in Kirkcaldy, Scotland, before moving to Kent, England, at the age of 12 due to his father's engineering work on the Channel Tunnel. He attended UCL to study mechanical engineering, driven by his innate passion for building and making things—a trait inherited from his father.
[04:09]
Guy Berryman:
"I've always had an engineer's brain, I guess, you know, I sort of have my father's DNA and I always liked to build things and make things."
Transition to Music
While pursuing engineering, Guy's passion for music never waned. At university, he met his future Coldplay bandmates and chose to sign a record deal over continuing his architecture studies. This pivotal decision led to Coldplay's meteoric rise, defined by their hit single "Yellow."
[07:15]
Guy Berryman:
"We just kept working and doing what we needed to do and we took one step at a time and I just had this great belief that we were gonna be able to turn our band into something successful."
From Music to Fashion: The Birth of Applied Artforms
Inspiration and Launch
After a break from touring in 2018, Guy sought to reconnect with his love for design. His extensive collection of vintage and military garments, inspired by mid-century modern aesthetics, became the foundation for Applied Artforms. Launched in 2020, the brand emphasizes quality, longevity, and a sculptural design process akin to creating music.
[12:00]
Guy Berryman:
"When I started traveling around the world a lot, I started buying and collecting and building up this library of garments just because I love them, not because I was wearing them, but just because I liked them from a construction point of view."
Design Philosophy and Inspirations
Mid-Century Modern and Utilitarian Design
Guy's fascination with the mid-20th century stems from the era's emphasis on high-quality, well-crafted designs. This period, marked by post-war innovation, influences Applied Artforms' approach to clothing—prioritizing durability and timeless aesthetics over fleeting trends.
[13:31]
Guy Berryman:
"I really feel like it was the greatest era for design. And of course things were made very well back then as well. Things tend to be very high quality."
Sculptural and Musically-Inspired Process
Drawing parallels between music production and fashion design, Guy describes his creative process as "sculptural." He emphasizes iterative development, constantly refining and editing his creations much like composing and arranging music.
[00:53]
Guy Berryman:
"The way I make things is very much like we make songs, which is you throw ideas down and then you kind of listen to it, judge it, see what it is. Very sculptural process."
Challenges in Building a Fashion Business
Navigating the Fashion Industry
Guy candidly discusses the steep learning curve of launching a fashion label. Transitioning from a successful music career to the intricacies of fashion retail—such as distribution models, marketing strategies, and maintaining product quality—posed significant challenges.
[21:42]
Guy Berryman:
"Nothing can prepare you for the reality of making and selling clothes. I think it's an incredibly brutal industry to be in."
Balancing Creativity and Business
Maintaining the brand's integrity while scaling operations required Guy to reassess his approach. Partnering with Rob Schilder brought in essential business expertise, allowing Guy to focus more on the creative aspects of the brand.
[30:56]
Guy Berryman:
"He has great experience. And the main thing is it frees up my time to spend in the design studio just being creative because I felt for a long time I was doing the photo shoots, I was doing the styling, I was running the Instagram account, I was launching kind of marketing campaigns... I was getting spread so thinly."
Future Plans and Collaborations
Expanding Collections and Accessibility
Applied Artforms is set to launch two new collections for Autumn/Winter 2025: the Atelier Collection, offering premium, made-in-Italy and made-in-Japan apparel, and the AAF Collection, which embraces Japanese street style with more accessible pieces like graphic T-shirts.
[29:32]
Guy Berryman:
"We're launching the Atelier Collection and the AAF Collection, so atelier collection is kind of slightly more sartorial and the AAF collection is more playing into what I call this Japanese street style."
Increasing Brand Awareness
With approximately 50 stores worldwide, predominantly in Tokyo, Guy aims to enhance brand visibility and organic growth. Success stories, such as Rei Kawakubo's approval of their Modular Parka, underscore the brand's design excellence.
[26:27]
Guy Berryman:
"We had this kind of idea of longevity in mind when we designed that piece. I think the most important discovery someone can make for the brand is just purely on the face value of the garments."
Sustainable Fashion and Consumer Advice
Emphasizing Longevity and Quality
Guy advocates for a "buy less, buy better" mentality, encouraging consumers to invest in well-designed, durable pieces that age gracefully. He highlights the importance of vintage platforms like Grailed and Vinted in building a sustainable wardrobe.
[33:03]
Guy Berryman:
"I think something that's really great... have really opened up a world of, you know, used designer clothes. And I think that's a really great way of, like, building up a wardrobe."
Building Personal Collections
He shares his love for vintage stores worldwide, emphasizing the value of unique, timeless pieces over fast fashion trends. This approach not only supports sustainability but also allows individuals to curate personalized and meaningful wardrobes.
[34:00]
Guy Berryman:
"I think it's cool that young people are feeling it's kind of more acceptable to buy used garments even desirable, because you get something different."
Conclusion
Guy Berryman's transition from a celebrated musician to a passionate fashion entrepreneur underscores the synergy between creativity and craftsmanship. Through Applied Artforms, he champions sustainable, high-quality design, drawing inspiration from his diverse experiences and emphasizing the enduring value of well-made garments. His journey offers invaluable insights for creatives navigating multiple disciplines and aspiring fashion entrepreneurs seeking to blend passion with purpose.
Notable Quotes with Timestamps
-
"[00:53] Guy Berryman:
"The way I make things is very much like we make songs, which is you throw ideas down and then you kind of listen to it, judge it, see what it is. Very sculptural process." -
"[04:09] Guy Berryman:
"I've always had an engineer's brain, I guess, you know, I sort of have my father's DNA and I always liked to build things and make things." -
"[07:15] Guy Berryman:
"We just kept working and doing what we needed to do and we took one step at a time and I just had this great belief that we were gonna be able to turn our band into something successful." -
"[13:31] Guy Berryman:
"I really feel like it was the greatest era for design. And of course things were made very well back then as well. Things tend to be very high quality." -
"[21:42] Guy Berryman:
"Nothing can prepare you for the reality of making and selling clothes. I think it's an incredibly brutal industry to be in." -
"[30:56] Guy Berryman:
"He has great experience. And the main thing is it frees up my time to spend in the design studio just being creative because I felt for a long time I was doing the photo shoots, I was doing the styling, I was running the Instagram account, I was launching kind of marketing campaigns... I was getting spread so thinly."* -
"[33:03] Guy Berryman:
"I think something that's really great... have really opened up a world of, you know, used designer clothes. And I think that's a really great way of, like, building up a wardrobe."*
Note: This summary omits advertisements, intros, outros, and non-content sections as per the podcast guidelines.