How Basketball Sneakers Got Their Groove Back

Summary

Summary of "The Business of Fashion Podcast" Episode: How Basketball Sneakers Got Their Groove Back

Release Date: August 6, 2025

---

Introduction

In the August 6, 2025 episode of The Business of Fashion Podcast, titled "How Basketball Sneakers Got Their Groove Back", hosts Sheena Butler Young and Brian Baskin explore the revival of basketball sneakers in the fashion world. Joined by BoF correspondent Lei Takanashi and sneaker expert Mike Sykes, the discussion delves into the historical significance, recent trends, and future prospects of basketball sneakers as both performance gear and fashion statements.

The Golden Era of Basketball Sneakers

Sheena Butler Young opens the conversation by reminiscing about the late '80s and '90s, when performance basketball sneakers, particularly Nike's Air Jordan line, transcended their athletic purpose to become cultural icons and status symbols.

Sheena Butler Young [01:15]: "These weren't just shoes you wore on the court. They were cultural signifiers, status symbols, coveted collectibles."

During this period, basketball sneakers were highly sought after not only by athletes but also by fashion enthusiasts, cementing their place in both sports and streetwear culture.

The Decline in Popularity

Brian Baskin highlights a significant shift over the past decade where actual performance basketball sneakers—those worn by current NBA stars—began losing their mainstream appeal. Although retro Jordans remained strong in the resale market, contemporary models failed to capture the same enthusiasm.

Brian Baskin [01:29]: "But over the past decade, something changed. While retro Jordans continued to dominate the resale market, actual performance basketball sneakers lost momentum with mainstream consumers."

Signs of Revival

The tide appears to be turning with the emergence of a new generation of NBA talent who are not only excelling on the court but also influencing fashion trends. This resurgence is driven by brands revitalizing basketball sneakers to align with current aesthetic demands.

Sheena Butler Young [01:42]: "Now that might be starting to shift. With a new generation of talent stepping onto the court and into the fashion spotlight, brands are giving basketball sneakers a facelift."

BoF correspondent Lei Takanashi and Mike Sykes provide deeper insights into this revival, discussing the interplay between athlete personalities, brand strategies, and evolving fashion trends.

Understanding Sneaker Collections

A light-hearted segment ensues where the hosts and guests share the number of basketball sneakers in their collections, highlighting the passion and dedication within the sneaker community.

Mike Sykes [02:41]: "I haven't counted recently, but the last time I counted it was 56."

Lei Takanashi [03:16]: "I'm very particular about what I buy in the sneaker space. All those shoes are actually collaborations of some sort."

Distinguishing Performance and Fashion Sneakers

Lei Takanashi clarifies the distinction between performance basketball shoes intended for athletic use and fashion-oriented sneakers designed as lifestyle collectibles.

Lei Takanashi [04:15]: "Performance basketball shoes are designed to be worn in games, whereas the collectible retro models are more lifestyle releases that don't necessarily incorporate the latest technology."

She emphasizes that past designs lacked the modern aesthetics that resonate with today's fashion-conscious consumers, making them appear outdated in both function and style.

The Role of Aesthetics and Uniqueness

Mike Sykes discusses the importance of uniqueness and aesthetic appeal in sneaker culture, explaining that sneaker enthusiasts seek distinctive designs that set them apart.

Mike Sykes [06:12]: "It's more about the aesthetic. Right. It's about looking unique and wearing the thing that stands out from everybody else."

He critiques the homogeneity in recent basketball sneaker designs, suggesting that the lack of innovative styles has pushed consumers to seek unique, vintage options instead.

Influence of Iconic Personalities

Lei Takanashi highlights how brands like Nike are capitalizing on the influence of contemporary athletes who have a strong presence both on and off the court. Personalities such as Shai Gilgeous-Alexander ("Shai") are instrumental in driving the fashion aspect of basketball sneakers.

Lei Takanashi [07:42]: "Shai is one of the flyest people walking on the planet right now. There's no doubt about that."

The synergy between athlete charisma and sneaker design is pivotal in rekindling interest and enthusiasm among consumers.

Impact of the WNBA and Women's Influence

Sheena Butler Young shifts focus to the Women's National Basketball Association (WNBA), underscoring its significant yet underappreciated role in the sneaker revival. The increasing visibility and influence of female athletes are creating new opportunities for sneaker brands.

Sheena Butler Young [12:26]: "Sabrina Ionesco, the Sabrina Twos, are the most worn shoe across both leagues by playing time."

Lei Takanashi and Mike Sykes elaborate on how sneaker trends often emanate from women's fashion, suggesting a "trickle-down" effect that benefits the broader sneaker market.

Lei Takanashi [13:01]: "Subscribe, you can find out how to do so in the show notes."

Mike Sykes [14:01]: "There are clearly like a huge opportunity there that I think everyone is kind of seeing and everyone kind of wants to get on it."

Challenges in Mainstream Adoption

Despite the positive trends, basketball sneaker sales have declined by 8% this year and 5% last year, indicating a disconnect between the revival within sneaker communities and broader consumer markets.

Brian Baskin [16:21]: "Basketball sneaker sales are down 8%. We are sort of calling it a revival right now. Is this a revival? What will make it a revival that sticks? Or is this just all a part of the footwear cycle?"

Lei Takanashi attributes this to comfort issues, noting that traditional basketball sneakers often lack the comfort features that currently dominate the running and lifestyle sneaker markets.

Lei Takanashi [16:53]: "The biggest challenge is comfort. It's not as comfortable as a New Balance or a Hoka."

Emergence of Smaller Brands and Innovation

The conversation shifts to the role of emerging and smaller brands like Anta, which are pushing design innovation in the basketball sneaker space. These brands are experimenting with unique designs and technologies, offering alternatives to the dominant players like Nike and Adidas.

Lei Takanashi [18:23]: "Anta is gaining traction by signing athletes like Kyrie and pushing experimental designs that differentiate them from major brands."

However, Mike Sykes points out that while these brands offer innovation, they often lack the brand prestige and legacy that giants like Nike and Jordan possess.

Mike Sykes [19:50]: "Overseas brands push innovation forward, but they don't have the same cachet as Jordan. The market is in a really good place in terms of choices for consumers."

Determining the Revival's Sustainability

In the concluding segment, Mike Sykes asserts that the current trends represent a true revival, albeit one that may take years to reach the profitability and cultural impact of the '90s and early 2000s.

Mike Sykes [23:59]: "I would call this a revival. We might be looking at a little bit of a lag, but we're inching closer to that moment again."

Lei Takanashi remains optimistic, believing that iconic designs like the AE sneakers have the potential to become cultural artifacts with lasting appeal.

Lei Takanashi [25:19]: "I think not every style will live, but I think you have something like the AE. I think people will remember that like 10, 15 years from now."

Final Thoughts

Sheena Butler Young, Brian Baskin, Lei Takanashi, and Mike Sykes wrap up the episode with a shared enthusiasm for the ongoing sneaker revival, acknowledging both the challenges and the promising developments within the industry.

Sheena Butler Young [26:37]: "We are fueling the revival."

---

Key Takeaways

• Historical Significance: Basketball sneakers have transitioned from performance gear to cultural icons, epitomized by brands like Nike's Air Jordan.

• Decline and Revival: After a decade of declining mainstream popularity, a new wave of NBA talent and innovative brand strategies are sparking a revival.

• Influence of Athletes: Modern athletes with strong fashion personas, such as Shai Gilgeous-Alexander and Anthony Edwards, are pivotal in driving sneaker trends.

• Women's Impact: The WNBA and female athletes are increasingly influential in the sneaker market, initiating trends that resonate broadly.

• Challenges: Despite the revival, sales remain down due to factors like comfort and the dominance of running and lifestyle sneakers.

• Innovation from Smaller Brands: Emerging brands like Anta are introducing unique designs and technologies, adding diversity to the market.

• Sustainability of Revival: While optimistic, experts recognize that achieving the cultural and commercial heights of past eras will require time and continued innovation.

Notable Quotes

• Sheena Butler Young [01:15]: "These weren't just shoes you wore on the court. They were cultural signifiers, status symbols, coveted collectibles."

• Mike Sykes [06:12]: "It's more about the aesthetic. Right. It's about looking unique and wearing the thing that stands out from everybody else."

• Sheena Butler Young [12:26]: "Sabrina Ionesco, the Sabrina Twos, are the most worn shoe across both leagues by playing time."

• Mike Sykes [23:59]: "I would call this a revival. We might be looking at a little bit of a lag, but we're inching closer to that moment again."

• Lei Takanashi [25:19]: "I think people will remember that like 10, 15 years from now."

---

For a deeper dive into the resurgence of basketball sneakers and related fashion trends, readers can access Lei Takanashi's article, "The Fashion Revival of Basketball Sneakers," available to professional subscribers at businessoffashion.com.

Transcript

[Fiji Water Representative]

As it starts to get warmer outside. I love to keep Fiji Water on hand to keep hydrated and refreshed. It really is from the islands of Fiji. Drop by drop, Fiji water is filtered through volcanic rock 1600 miles away from the nearest continent, protected and preserved naturally from external elements. In this process, it collects a unique profile of electrolytes and minerals, resulting in more than double the electrolytes as the other two top premium bottled water brands, giving Fiji Water its soft, smooth tast. Unlike some other premium bottled waters, Fiji water's electrolytes are 100% naturally occurring and this water even has a perfectly balanced ph of 7.7. Visit your local retailer to pick up some Fiji Water today for your next backyard party, beach or pool day hike, or even your home office. Fiji Water is earth's finest water.

[Sheena Butler Young]

Hello and welcome to the Debrief from the business of fashion. Each week we delve into Our most popular BoF professional stories with the correspondents who created them. I'm senior correspondent Sheena Butler Young.

[Brian Baskin]

And I'm executive editor Brian Baskin.

[Sheena Butler Young]

In the late 80s and 90s, performance basketball sneakers, led by Nike's Air Jordan line, became fashion icons in their own right. These weren't just shoes you wore on the court. They were cultural signifiers, status symbols, coveted collectibles.

[Brian Baskin]

But over the past decade, something changed. While retro Jordans continued to dominate the resale market, actual performance performance basketball sneakers, the kind worn by current NBA stars, lost momentum with mainstream consumers.

[Sheena Butler Young]

Now that might be starting to shift. With a new generation of talent stepping onto the court and into the fashion spotlight, brands are giving basketball sneakers a facelift. Today we're joined by BoF correspondent Lei Takanashi, who reported on this revival.

[Brian Baskin]

And I'd also like to introduce to the debrief and to BoF Mike Sykes. Mike recently started at business of fashion, covering the intersection of sports and fashion. He's also the author of the kicks you wear newsletter, which, if you follow Sneakers, you probably already know. I've been a fan for years. I consider it the authority on all things sneakers and sports and fashion generally. We're actually bringing the newsletter in House at BoF. If you'd like to subscribe, you can find out how to do so in the show notes. So hello Lei and hello Mike. Welcome to the Debrief podcast.

[Lei Takanashi]

Thank you, Brian and Sheena. It's a pleasure to be here.

[Mike Sykes]

It's a pleasure to be here with you guys.

[Brian Baskin]

Before we get into basketball sneakers, Mike, why don't you introduce yourself, Tell us a bit about who you are. And the kicks you wear.

[Mike Sykes]

So I'm Mike Sykes. I'm the author of the kicks you wear. I am a sneaker head. That is my passion. It's always been the thing that I cling to. I love sports. I am a sports journalist, typically by trade, but I'm very excited to dive into fashion with. With BoF.

[Brian Baskin]

Amazing. And I guess the question, actually, this is a probably good question for everyone here is how many pairs of sneakers does everyone own? I want to start with Mike, because I'm sure that number is insane.

[Mike Sykes]

It's really not that bad. I haven't counted recently, but the last time I counted it was 56.

[Brian Baskin]

Oh, my God. Lei, what about you? Can you top that?

[Lei Takanashi]

You know, it's funny, I was talking to Mike about this last week and like, I'm happy to say that my collection is maybe like only like 10 to 12 pairs, I think. I mean, I think that's still a lot more than the average person, but. But like, I'm very particular about what I buy in the sneaker space. It's every. All those shoes are actually collaborations of some sort of.

[Sheena Butler Young]

Oh, my gosh. I think I'm in the middle at like maybe 30 to maybe not 40, upwards of 30, but less than 40 pairs. Brian's like, laughing at me. Is that bad? Is that bad? Is that good? I don't know.

[Brian Baskin]

No, I just like, you're all like, I only have 40. I think I have five. And they're mostly like to mow the lawn in or whatever. But that's why we're here, right? To learn. On that note, for the. Brian's out there in the audience can actually. Leigh, this is. This would be good for you. Can you just first explain the difference between basketball shoe you're wearing on the court and sort of the fashion sneaker that you're talking about in the story?

[Lei Takanashi]

Yeah. Yes, for sure. Certainly, certainly. Well, like, what we're talking about here in this story is just like performance basketball shoes, like, shoes are actually designed to be, you know, actually play sports and you're actually like shoot hoops you'll actually just. You'll actually wear to a game or, you know. Whereas, like, you know, I think the basketball sneakers that we're thinking of, that the ones that people collect are like retro Air Jordans are real, really lifestyle releases. You know, these are shoes that were designed for performance in like 1985, but are now not really up to date in terms of tech or any of those things.

[Sheena Butler Young]

Can you talk about why this, like, you know, the latest wave, before this wave of basketball shoes fell off, like, because people used to wear what the athletes wore on the court, like, in their everyday life because they were cool sneakers. What happened that caused a shift maybe a decade ago.

[Lei Takanashi]

Yeah, I think really the last generation of basketball shoes before this, like, you know, signature styles in the 2010s by Nike for players such as, like LeBron, Kobe, Kyrie, what have you. They all looked really techy, almost like, I guess similar to like, maybe performance, running product. Like, of course, you know, basketball sneakers are working with completely different technology. But I guess the best way to put it kind of look like something that was really solely designed for sport and only sport. Right. You know, it's something that you would only see on your high school kids who are actually about to play basketball for, like, you know, their team or whatever, and the colors and all that kind of stuff. It didn't really scream like, oh, this is like a fashion shoe. It really scream like, this is like, you're wear this to play, you know. And when I think back to like just the 2010s and just, you know, basketball shoes that cut through the noise, the only shoe I could think of is just like foam posits, to be absolutely honest. Like, that's a style that I think Nike launched in the late 90s, and then they brought it back in the late 2000s. But that was like the only, I think, like, stylish, like, basketball shirt I really saw on and off court. I honestly, I love to hear Mike's thoughts on this too.

[Sheena Butler Young]

I was gonna say what Mike, what's that utilitarian use case? Like, do sneakerheads not like it? If it feels too much like it will do its job basically?

[Mike Sykes]

Well, no, I don't think it's that. I just think with sneakerheads, it's more about the aesthetic. Right. It's about like looking unique and wearing the. The thing that sort of sticks out from everybody else.

[Lei Takanashi]

That's.

[Mike Sykes]

That's sort of what the. The thrill of the hunt is about. Like, you're looking for something that will differentiate you and your sty. Everyone else. And I think with basketball sneakers in. In particular, and not even just with. With Nike, but with a number of brands out there, all the styles just seem kind of homogenous. Like, it was everybody that was just. They. They were making shoes that. That looked similar, had similar color palettes. It. It just. There wasn't much difference there. And if you're not going to give us anything that looks different or anything that. That's unique, then people are going to. To go back and, and look into the past for, for something that, that might make them stick out a little bit more. And so I think after, like, I would say the inflection point for me in particular is like the 2012 NBA All Star Game where, like, Nike drops the, the Galaxy pack and then we get the Galaxy foam posits, and then they've got the, the Katie's, the Bronze and the Kobe's. And like, after that, it kind of goes downhill from there. And, and now we're sort of in this period where things are ramping up a little bit more, I would say.

[Brian Baskin]

Well, so explain what's happening there, Lei. I mean, like Mike was saying, you know, you're looking for shoes that help you stand out. I mean, how does Nike, the biggest, best known brand in the world, make something that makes you feel like you found something unique and special that no one else has?

[Lei Takanashi]

Yeah, I think what Nike is really excelling at right now is they're just really going towards, I think, just the biggest new names in the space. Right? Like, whether it's Sabrina Ionoski for, like, you know, the New York Liberty or like, you know, someone like, Converse with, like, shy Gilgis on Alexander. And just for transparency, I don't follow the sport of basketball, but I do follow, I think, the aesthetics of it and how it's become this larger fashion thing, how it's become this larger interest in menswear and streetwear culture. And a lot of these new players that Nike signing, giving signature shoes to, they have this grip on the culture when they walk in the tunnel, everyone sees it. You don't have to follow the game to just appreciate how well someone shy dresses. Right. He is one of the flyest people walking on planet Earth right now. There's no doubt about that.

[Brian Baskin]

For the uninitiated, why don't, why don't you describe like. Like, what is his look? Like what's his aesthetic?

[Lei Takanashi]

Yeah, how he dresses. It's just like, it was like effortless, like, cool. Like, that's kind of how I look at it. It's just like how he first puts stuff together. It's just like, it's high fashion, it's kind of like streetwear, but it's almost like the best, like Instagram, like, shit. It's like real life.

[Sheena Butler Young]

Mike, to what extent is it this new wave of players? So I'm also going to stretch my basketball knowledge. So Anthony Edwards with the Adidas sneaker, right? The 81s, that's a hit. And I know that because every single kid on my son's basketball team is wearing the AES in different colors. To what extent is it the swagger and bravado of someone like AE that's also driving the excitement that we're seeing right now?

[Mike Sykes]

Yeah, I think that has a lot to do with it. And I think Anthony Edwards is actually a very unique example because I think he probably is one of the most. I don't even know how to properly describe the guy.

[Sheena Butler Young]

Like, provocative Persona.

[Brian Baskin]

Yeah, he is.

[Mike Sykes]

He's very provocative. He's got the bravado. He's got, like, everything that you want from a signature athlete. Very outspoken, isn't afraid to sort of say or do whatever, speak his mind. And he's not. He's also not afraid to go at his peers, including, like, the likes of LeBron James and Kevin Durant, like, some of the best players in the game. And so I think that helps a lot. Having an athlete like that helps a lot. But I will say that I also, from the brand perspective, I think they've. They've sort of dropped the ball a bit over these last decades because there have been interesting athletes that have come over the last decade or so who haven't gotten shoes or have had shoes that just haven't necessarily been the most marketable sneakers. But I think that from a brand perspective, the athletes just kind of weren't the interesting players in the field. Like, you've got names like Kanye West, Travis Scott, Virgil Abloh who come along, and they sort of become the athletes with the models that they put forward. And that's where the public's interest goes. And so now I think the brands are sort of circling back around and recentering athletes in a way that I think we haven't quite seen in a long time. And not only is it making for more interesting signature models, but it's also making for more interesting signature athletes as well.

[Brian Baskin]

Who's in that lost generation of NBA stars who didn't quite get their shot.

[Mike Sykes]

Oh, I would say I've got to throw John Wall in there. As the resident Washington Wizards fan here. It's a very sad and cursed existence.

[Brian Baskin]

Yeah, I'm from Maryland. My. I completely feel that Brian knows.

[Mike Sykes]

Brian knows John Wall. I would say Candace Parker, honestly, on the. On the WNBA side, like, that was just a moment that, like the rivalry between her and Maya Moore, that. That sort of bubbled up in the mid 2010s time. Like, that was something that I felt like Jordan should have been on it. Adidas should have been on it and no one kind of was. It was just a really weird period. Especially like considering that we hadn't had a woman's signature basketball shoe since Candace Parker's last model in like 2012 and she played up until what, two or three years ago. So like just knowing that there were sort of stories like that out there and athletes out there that were, that were very interesting and sort of had the things that you want to see in a signature athlete, like that's, it's really disappointing when you, when you look back on it as, as a sports fan and as a consumer.

[Sheena Butler Young]

Honestly, I'm glad you mentioned Candace Parker and also Maya because there is an opportunity here around women's. Right. So a fun fact that I learned in reporting a story on Nike's involvement with the WNBA was that Sabrina Ionesco, the Sabrina Twos are the most worn shoe across both leagues, the WNBA and the NBA by playing time. So the men are also wearing her sneaker. Can both of you talk a little bit about the women's opportunity here? Like how women have driven some of this resurgence?

[Lei Takanashi]

I mean, I think it makes a lot of sense just because I think a lot of sneaker trends in general do start with women. Like you know, just think about like the, the rise of the samba or like, you know, just like the flash shoe trend overall. Right. It's like that's not something I started by guys, but now it's like everybody wears them and all these guys wearing those like barrel like jeans, which I think is also a trend story by women as well. So it's almost like a trickle down effect. So I think like once, even though like the NBA, you know, the tunnel fits restored by the NBA athletes are male, like I feel like we will see, I think as WNBA gets bigger and bigger, we will see just that kind of trickle down thing happening too.

[Mike Sykes]

Yeah. And I honestly am just thinking about like, I mean, so what? Four years ago in 2021, I think we only had one WNBA signature athlete and it was Elena Daladon who like nobody even really knew that she had a signature shoe, which was also just really, really strange. And now you've got Sabrina, you've got Brianna Stewart, her teammate, you've got Caitlin Clark's coming, you got Asia Wilson, maybe Kik Aria Finn will have something with sketchers soon. Like there are just a number of partnerships that have been forged in these last few years. So there's clearly like a huge opportunity there that I think everyone is kind of seeing and everyone kind of wants to get on it. So I honestly think it's just a matter of time before we see, you know, there are a number of guys with signature shoes in the NBA, and I think we're going to see the same thing in the WNBA over the next decade or so.

[Brian Baskin]

And that's really unusual, right? I mean, Sheena, you just wrote a whole story about this, that. That the WNBA had been essentially ignored for decades, you know, when it came to signature sneakers. And. And now it seems to. I mean, from what Mike just said, it sounds like it's actually driving so much of the energy here, even.

[Mike Sykes]

Almost.

[Brian Baskin]

Even more than the men, from the sound of it.

[Sheena Butler Young]

Oh, for sure. I mean, I think that there. It's. It's a. It's a symbiotic sort of situation. I think there are these players that are embracing fashion, and so, like, fashion as an industry, but also as like an ideology, like a culture is embracing it back, if that makes sense. So I think it's all coming together. But to both the point that Mike and Lay made around some of the brands maybe didn't meet the athletes halfway. The women athletes in particular here, like, you had interesting people that never really got the product to match it. And there's. I mean, maybe Mike can explain this a little bit better, but there's a difference between a signature release and, like, a special player edition sneaker. So they weren't getting those big marquee signature shoes, right? Like, they were getting these little small capsules or player exclusives, they call it. And now we're seeing more actual signature shoes.

[Mike Sykes]

Yeah, that's absolutely correct. And like, two players that come to mind specifically with that because they have some of the best pes that I've ever seen are Sue Bird, who played for the Seattle Storm. She had a number of really good models, including a really nice Kyrie Irving signature shoe with Nike. And then Maya Moore is also the other one who had some of the best Jordan pes that. That I'd ever seen. Like, I'm thinking in particular that wings Jordan 10, like, that was a great sneaker. And when the sneaker released, I was like, this is a great shoe, but I also feel like we could maybe turn this into a signature model instead of just a player exclusive model. And so, like, just seeing the creativity and the color that has always been around the women's game when it comes to the sneakers that they've worn, it just makes it all the more disappointing for me that we hadn't seen this sort of energy around the women's market a bit sooner because I really think that if we saw what we see today, maybe five or 10 years ago, the market right now would be completely different than what it is today. It'd be incredible.

[Brian Baskin]

Although I have to ask, how much of this is sneaker heads, who are. You're amazing readers of your newsletter, let's say, and how much of this is really penetrating the wider market? Because I was, you know, in lay's story, you would think from what we're saying, oh, basketball shoe sales must be booming. They're actually down 8% this year, and they were down 5% last year. So it seems like something's not quite connecting with the mainstream consumer. Is that right, Brian?

[Sheena Butler Young]

Brings us back down to earth. 8% down and 5%.

[Lei Takanashi]

Sorry, guys.

[Brian Baskin]

No, we need.

[Sheena Butler Young]

We need that.

[Lei Takanashi]

Yeah. I think it's just tough because, like, no matter what, like, you know, the trend cycles kind of leaned into, like, the running space, right? And, like, things. I think the one thing that running has this edge over right now versus, like, you know, even lifestyle basketball secrets is just comfort, right? And I think everyone knows, like, if you ever wear, like, a dunk, Air Force One or Air Jordan One, like, you know, even like, a Puma Clyde, we could go way back to those shoes, right? Like, none of those shoes are really comfortable, to be honest. And I think that's the biggest challenge that a basketball sneaker being like, a huge lifestyle thing, like, like. Or coming back to the huge lifestyle thing is has. It has right now. Like, you know, it's like, it's just, how. How are you gonna address that comfort? I mean, I know with the Air Jordan 40, right? Like, I think they combined Zoom X or, like, it's like technology that's usually found, like performance running sneakers, and they combine with another, like, Zoom technology for that. And I feel like that was maybe a way to address, like, the comfort issue, I guess. But to me, that's the biggest hurdle. It's just. It's not as comfortable as, like, a new balance or a hoka.

[Sheena Butler Young]

I was going to ask also about the fact that there are some of these emerging brands like Anta and others that are pushing some of the design innovation that we're seeing today. Although it's not managed to get us over the hurdle in terms of sales numbers. There is some new energy coming into the basketball sneaker world. Like, can you talk a little bit about those. Those newer, emerging or maybe smaller brands? So there's the big, big players, like Adidas, like Nike, like Puma. But what about some of the smaller players.

[Lei Takanashi]

Yeah, I mean, yeah, it's really interesting to see how antisping isn't gaining traction, you know, by signing, like, athletes like Kyrie to make signature shoes. And also, like, how they're really pushing heavily into us. Like, I think they're actually set to open a store this fall in Los Angeles, which is really a huge and interesting development. I'm not necessarily following or seeing those, like, shoes. Like, I don't necessarily see, like, anti shoes being worn like Air Jordans by any means, you know, But I think what I'm gathering from why they're breaking through into performance basketball space is that they're really offering something different from all these other major sneaker brands. And I think it's because they know what position they're in as these Chinese sportswear companies that don't have, I guess, the global recognition as Nike or Adidas. And they're trying to, I think, get up there is that they're just trying to be more experimental. I mean, when I look at some of those styles by Ansel honestly, some of them look closer to Hokas to me, or I think the one shoe that really stuck out to me was Carrie did this shoe. I think it was called the Chiefs, and they would have, like, these tassels that kind of almost remind me of, like, Vis Bim sneakers. Right. And it was, like, a call to his indigenous or Native American heritage. And I thought it made so much sense to do that. But that's the thing. It's like, I think they're taking just a little bit more risk and also just trying to be a little more experimental.

[Sheena Butler Young]

I was gonna say, Mike, you said your sneaker heads look. Are looking for something very unique that stands out. Doesn't Anta meet that muster? Or is it sort of too unique or too unknown in the space?

[Mike Sykes]

I mean, that's a really good point, but I do think that it probably is maybe a bit too much of an unknown for most people. Like, there are people who are, like, super initiated into this stuff who do buy, like, Leaning and Anta and, like, specifically, like, I've seen Way of Wade enthusiasts or whatever, and, like, that's like, a really unique thing to sort of enter into the market. And I do think that the overseas brands sort of push the innovation forward a little bit. Like, if you look at, for example, like, the Air Jordan 39, like, it'll remind you a lot of the. The way of Wade808, I think number five, I want to say, like, it's a. It's a very similar looking silhouette. Like the technology is kind of the same and so like you can kind of see like the two markets playing off each other a little bit there. As far as like performance and aesthetic, I'm not sure that we'll ever see like Leigh was saying, like I don't know if we'll ever see like those brands sort of have the same cachet that like a Jordan brand does in this market. But I think that's totally okay because not many brands will like the other brand is Michael Jordan. And so like there's a whole legacy that comes with that that not only do overseas brands not have, but a brand like say a New Balance or Puma might not necessarily have either. They might have a little bit more, but it's still not coming close to like that Nike and Jordan signature silhouette or whatever. So like I think the market is in a really good place as far as like choices for consumers right now. And that's really like the best thing I think we can ask for.

[Sheena Butler Young]

We'll be back with more of the debrief right after this.

[Podcast Advertiser]

Starting a business sounds exciting, but it can quickly get overwhelming. Suddenly you're in charge of everything. Branding, websites, logistics, marketing. The list keeps growing. That's why so many businesses turn to Shopify to help make things Simpler. From day one, Shopify powers 10% of all US E commerce, from names like Skims and Gymshark to brands just getting started. Build an online store that matches your brand with hundreds of ready to use templates. Create content quicker with AI tools that write product descriptions, headlines and enhance photos. Launch email and social campaigns like you've got a full marketing team and manage everything with expert level tools. If you're ready to sell, you're ready for Shopify. Turn your big business idea into with Shopify on your side, sign up for your $1 per month trial and start selling today at shopify.com BOF go to shopify.com BOF shopify.com BOF.

[Lei Takanashi]

Group Health Plans are limited to a single carrier and a few plan options, but that doesn't fit everyone's needs. Now a new form of employer coverage called an ichra allows employees to choose any plan from any carrier. Learn [e-mail] Ichra.

[Podcast Advertiser]

If you're a lineman in charge of keeping the lights on, Grainger understands that you go to great lengths and sometimes heights to ensure the power is always flowing. Which is why you can count on Grainger for professional grade products and next day delivery. So you have everything you need to get the job done. Call 1-800-GRAINGER click granger.com or just stop by Granger for the ones who get it done.

[Sheena Butler Young]

So going back to the point that, you know, Brian mentioned earlier, basketball sneaker sales are down 8%. We are sort of calling it a revival right now. Is this a revival? What will make it a revival that sticks? Or is this just all a part of the footwear cycle? Things are cool one minute, they're not cool the next. Where do we land both of you? I'll start with you, Mike.

[Mike Sykes]

I would call this a revival. Yeah. And I think, like, the sales numbers are down right now, and I think that's fair to point out. But I also think it might be. We might be looking at a little bit of a lag, because, like, you think about it, the AE one didn't come out until late 2023, and it sort of reached its apex last year in, like, the middle the summertime of last year, after the NBA season. And so, like, like, after that, you add the A1 signature sneaker, and then, like, the AE2 is coming, and then, like, you got some of the. The fear of God athletic stuff that. That's coming down the pipeline. There's just a lot coming still and a lot to. To sort of add on to what we've seen previously. And I think more brands are starting to think about basketball sneakers in a way that they haven't in the last decade. And so, like, I think it could take years before basketball sneakers become the profitable venture that. That we saw them as in, like, the 90s and early 2000s, even the. The early 2010s. But I think we'll get there eventually. And maybe this is just my nostalgia kicking in for, like, when I was wearing, like, KD's and LeBron's in 08 and 09. But I. I just really feel like we're just inching closer and closer to get into that moment again. Again.

[Lei Takanashi]

Yeah, I personally think, like, you know, when it comes to, like, a good sneaker is, like, a good sneaker, you know, like, and that's why, like, Air Force ones are still being worn today, or, like, you know, even Chuck Taylor's. Right. So when I see, like, these, like, shoes that I feel, like look stylish right now, like, I feel like they have the potential just to, like, have that longevity, you know, even a decade from now. I mean, like, I think about foam posits, like, how, like, you know, brands like comedy garcons and start making their own versions of it. You know, or just the fact that like what also helps kind of create this. I guess it turns these things into I guess like cultural artifacts or whatever. Is that just how they're marketed too, with the AES. The AE ones, right. The ads around that, right? Where it's like he's just trash talking and he's really amping to shoe up and it's this really memorable backdrop and you remember the commercials and it's like those are the types of things that I think it does stand a test of time if it works right now. And honestly I'm not pessimistic about it. I think not every style will live, but I think you have something like the AE. I think people will remember that like 10, 15 years from now.

[Sheena Butler Young]

Well, I think I have to take my sneaker collection from 35 to 40. I have to add five basketball sneakers that I've written down and.

[Brian Baskin]

And I will take mine from five to six.

[Sheena Butler Young]

That's progress. We are fueling the revival. Lei and Mike, thank you so much for joining us.

[Lei Takanashi]

Thank you Sheena. It was a pleasure to come on.

[Mike Sykes]

Thanks guys. I appreciate y' all having me.

[Brian Baskin]

Please be sure to check out Lei's article the Fashion Revival of Basketball Sneakers at businessofashion.com these and other stories are available to via professional subscribers only and you can find the links in the episode notes. You'll also see there. How to subscribe to Mike's newsletter. The kicks you wear.

[Sheena Butler Young]

You've been listening to the debrief, produced and edited by Olivia Davies and Eric Eric Bria. I'm Sheena Butler Young. We'll be back next week with a new episode. Thanks so much for joining us and be sure to follow us wherever you get your podcasts.

[Mike Sykes]

If you work as a manufacturing facilities engineer, installing a new piece of equipment can be as complex as the machinery itself. From prep work to alignment and testing, it's your team's job to put it all together. That's why why it's good to have Grainger on your side. With industrial grade products and next day delivery, Grainger helps ensure you have everything you need close at hand through every step of the installation. Call 1-800-GRAINGER. Click granger.com or just stop by Grainger for the ones who get it done.

[Lei Takanashi]

Group health insurance can challenge company budgets, but now a new form of employer coverage called an ICHRA can help. Unlike group insurance, ICHRAs offer predictable costs and and stable employer contributions. Learn more atambetterhealth.com ICRA.