Summary of "The Business of Fashion Podcast" Episode: How Basketball Sneakers Got Their Groove Back

Release Date: August 6, 2025

Introduction

In the August 6, 2025 episode of The Business of Fashion Podcast, titled "How Basketball Sneakers Got Their Groove Back", hosts Sheena Butler Young and Brian Baskin explore the revival of basketball sneakers in the fashion world. Joined by BoF correspondent Lei Takanashi and sneaker expert Mike Sykes, the discussion delves into the historical significance, recent trends, and future prospects of basketball sneakers as both performance gear and fashion statements.

The Golden Era of Basketball Sneakers

Sheena Butler Young opens the conversation by reminiscing about the late '80s and '90s, when performance basketball sneakers, particularly Nike's Air Jordan line, transcended their athletic purpose to become cultural icons and status symbols.

Sheena Butler Young [01:15]: "These weren't just shoes you wore on the court. They were cultural signifiers, status symbols, coveted collectibles."

During this period, basketball sneakers were highly sought after not only by athletes but also by fashion enthusiasts, cementing their place in both sports and streetwear culture.

The Decline in Popularity

Brian Baskin highlights a significant shift over the past decade where actual performance basketball sneakers—those worn by current NBA stars—began losing their mainstream appeal. Although retro Jordans remained strong in the resale market, contemporary models failed to capture the same enthusiasm.

Brian Baskin [01:29]: "But over the past decade, something changed. While retro Jordans continued to dominate the resale market, actual performance basketball sneakers lost momentum with mainstream consumers."

Signs of Revival

The tide appears to be turning with the emergence of a new generation of NBA talent who are not only excelling on the court but also influencing fashion trends. This resurgence is driven by brands revitalizing basketball sneakers to align with current aesthetic demands.

Sheena Butler Young [01:42]: "Now that might be starting to shift. With a new generation of talent stepping onto the court and into the fashion spotlight, brands are giving basketball sneakers a facelift."

BoF correspondent Lei Takanashi and Mike Sykes provide deeper insights into this revival, discussing the interplay between athlete personalities, brand strategies, and evolving fashion trends.

Understanding Sneaker Collections

A light-hearted segment ensues where the hosts and guests share the number of basketball sneakers in their collections, highlighting the passion and dedication within the sneaker community.

Mike Sykes [02:41]: "I haven't counted recently, but the last time I counted it was 56."

Lei Takanashi [03:16]: "I'm very particular about what I buy in the sneaker space. All those shoes are actually collaborations of some sort."

Distinguishing Performance and Fashion Sneakers

Lei Takanashi clarifies the distinction between performance basketball shoes intended for athletic use and fashion-oriented sneakers designed as lifestyle collectibles.

Lei Takanashi [04:15]: "Performance basketball shoes are designed to be worn in games, whereas the collectible retro models are more lifestyle releases that don't necessarily incorporate the latest technology."

She emphasizes that past designs lacked the modern aesthetics that resonate with today's fashion-conscious consumers, making them appear outdated in both function and style.

The Role of Aesthetics and Uniqueness

Mike Sykes discusses the importance of uniqueness and aesthetic appeal in sneaker culture, explaining that sneaker enthusiasts seek distinctive designs that set them apart.

Mike Sykes [06:12]: "It's more about the aesthetic. Right. It's about looking unique and wearing the thing that stands out from everybody else."

He critiques the homogeneity in recent basketball sneaker designs, suggesting that the lack of innovative styles has pushed consumers to seek unique, vintage options instead.

Influence of Iconic Personalities

Lei Takanashi highlights how brands like Nike are capitalizing on the influence of contemporary athletes who have a strong presence both on and off the court. Personalities such as Shai Gilgeous-Alexander ("Shai") are instrumental in driving the fashion aspect of basketball sneakers.

Lei Takanashi [07:42]: "Shai is one of the flyest people walking on the planet right now. There's no doubt about that."

The synergy between athlete charisma and sneaker design is pivotal in rekindling interest and enthusiasm among consumers.

Impact of the WNBA and Women's Influence

Sheena Butler Young shifts focus to the Women's National Basketball Association (WNBA), underscoring its significant yet underappreciated role in the sneaker revival. The increasing visibility and influence of female athletes are creating new opportunities for sneaker brands.

Sheena Butler Young [12:26]: "Sabrina Ionesco, the Sabrina Twos, are the most worn shoe across both leagues by playing time."

Lei Takanashi and Mike Sykes elaborate on how sneaker trends often emanate from women's fashion, suggesting a "trickle-down" effect that benefits the broader sneaker market.

Lei Takanashi [13:01]: "Subscribe, you can find out how to do so in the show notes."

Mike Sykes [14:01]: "There are clearly like a huge opportunity there that I think everyone is kind of seeing and everyone kind of wants to get on it."

Challenges in Mainstream Adoption

Despite the positive trends, basketball sneaker sales have declined by 8% this year and 5% last year, indicating a disconnect between the revival within sneaker communities and broader consumer markets.

Brian Baskin [16:21]: "Basketball sneaker sales are down 8%. We are sort of calling it a revival right now. Is this a revival? What will make it a revival that sticks? Or is this just all a part of the footwear cycle?"

Lei Takanashi attributes this to comfort issues, noting that traditional basketball sneakers often lack the comfort features that currently dominate the running and lifestyle sneaker markets.

Lei Takanashi [16:53]: "The biggest challenge is comfort. It's not as comfortable as a New Balance or a Hoka."

Emergence of Smaller Brands and Innovation

The conversation shifts to the role of emerging and smaller brands like Anta, which are pushing design innovation in the basketball sneaker space. These brands are experimenting with unique designs and technologies, offering alternatives to the dominant players like Nike and Adidas.

Lei Takanashi [18:23]: "Anta is gaining traction by signing athletes like Kyrie and pushing experimental designs that differentiate them from major brands."

However, Mike Sykes points out that while these brands offer innovation, they often lack the brand prestige and legacy that giants like Nike and Jordan possess.

Mike Sykes [19:50]: "Overseas brands push innovation forward, but they don't have the same cachet as Jordan. The market is in a really good place in terms of choices for consumers."

Determining the Revival's Sustainability

In the concluding segment, Mike Sykes asserts that the current trends represent a true revival, albeit one that may take years to reach the profitability and cultural impact of the '90s and early 2000s.

Mike Sykes [23:59]: "I would call this a revival. We might be looking at a little bit of a lag, but we're inching closer to that moment again."

Lei Takanashi remains optimistic, believing that iconic designs like the AE sneakers have the potential to become cultural artifacts with lasting appeal.

Lei Takanashi [25:19]: "I think not every style will live, but I think you have something like the AE. I think people will remember that like 10, 15 years from now."

Final Thoughts

Sheena Butler Young, Brian Baskin, Lei Takanashi, and Mike Sykes wrap up the episode with a shared enthusiasm for the ongoing sneaker revival, acknowledging both the challenges and the promising developments within the industry.

Sheena Butler Young [26:37]: "We are fueling the revival."

Key Takeaways

• Historical Significance: Basketball sneakers have transitioned from performance gear to cultural icons, epitomized by brands like Nike's Air Jordan.

• Decline and Revival: After a decade of declining mainstream popularity, a new wave of NBA talent and innovative brand strategies are sparking a revival.

• Influence of Athletes: Modern athletes with strong fashion personas, such as Shai Gilgeous-Alexander and Anthony Edwards, are pivotal in driving sneaker trends.

• Women's Impact: The WNBA and female athletes are increasingly influential in the sneaker market, initiating trends that resonate broadly.

• Challenges: Despite the revival, sales remain down due to factors like comfort and the dominance of running and lifestyle sneakers.

• Innovation from Smaller Brands: Emerging brands like Anta are introducing unique designs and technologies, adding diversity to the market.

• Sustainability of Revival: While optimistic, experts recognize that achieving the cultural and commercial heights of past eras will require time and continued innovation.

Notable Quotes

• Sheena Butler Young [01:15]: "These weren't just shoes you wore on the court. They were cultural signifiers, status symbols, coveted collectibles."

• Mike Sykes [06:12]: "It's more about the aesthetic. Right. It's about looking unique and wearing the thing that stands out from everybody else."

• Sheena Butler Young [12:26]: "Sabrina Ionesco, the Sabrina Twos, are the most worn shoe across both leagues by playing time."

• Mike Sykes [23:59]: "I would call this a revival. We might be looking at a little bit of a lag, but we're inching closer to that moment again."

• Lei Takanashi [25:19]: "I think people will remember that like 10, 15 years from now."

For a deeper dive into the resurgence of basketball sneakers and related fashion trends, readers can access Lei Takanashi's article, "The Fashion Revival of Basketball Sneakers," available to professional subscribers at businessoffashion.com.