Prada Group CEO Andrea Guerra on Fixing the Luxury Business Model

Summary

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The Business of Fashion Podcast

Episode: Prada Group CEO Andrea Guerra on Fixing the Luxury Business Model

Host: Imran Ahmed
Guest: Andrea Guerra, CEO, Prada Group
Date: November 21, 2025

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Episode Overview

Imran Ahmed sits down with Andrea Guerra, CEO of Prada Group, for a candid conversation recorded live at BoF Voices 2025. The discussion delves into the challenges facing the luxury fashion industry, the enduring importance of brand DNA, and how the Prada Group navigates creativity, pricing, acquisition strategy (notably Versace), and succession planning. Guerra shares his unvarnished perspectives on the business model of luxury fashion, the pitfalls of industry trends, and Prada’s approaches amid changing consumer attitudes.

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Key Discussion Points and Insights

State of the Luxury Business Model

• Cycles and Overreach:

  • Guerra reflects on two decades of luxury boom and the industry's failure to question its trajectory during that period.
  • [02:26] Andrea Guerra: “We have not asked us too many questions for two decades of constant growth ... But each industry has its own rules at the end. So we need to be happy of what we have been living, and we need to go through this.”
  • A return to "textbook" luxury values is needed, focusing on patience, longevity, and the fundamentals of brand DNA.

• On Breaking Rules and Losing Patience:

  • The luxury market has lost sight of patience and authenticity.
  • [03:25] Guerra: “There are certain things about luxury and fashion that we constantly say. One is patience. Maybe we have not been so patient. ... Maybe we have been a little bit spoiled.”
  • The industry must revisit fundamental principles, resisting the urge to constantly stretch brand boundaries.

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Leadership & Prada Philosophy

• Internal Debates and Focus:
  • Prada actively encourages debate and focuses on a few core priorities: long-term brand integrity, simplicity, and delivering emotional value to customers.
  • [04:18] Guerra: “Anything can happen every day, positive or negative. ... We need to focus on few things ... your brand, it’s long term, it’s desirability ... your ability to excite dreams.”

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Pricing Strategies and "Greedflation"

• On Perceived Overpricing:

  • Ahmed highlights consumer concern about price hikes (some items up 100% in five years), prompting a direct response.
  • [06:55] Guerra: “If we are here discussing prices, we have an issue. We are here for something else.…If I’m not able to sell you an emotion, then we discuss about pricing. If we discuss about pricing, I failed on the first part.”
  • Guerra blames "spoiled" brands and industry "trends," referencing inflation post-COVID as an exceptional period, but avoids direct justification for persistent high prices.

• Brand Strategy Over Pricing:

  • [09:03] Guerra: “I want to discuss about desirability, creativity, innovation, our ability to tell people about emotions. ... I don’t want to discuss about price ranges.”
  • The brand’s priority is long-term connection and cultural resonance rather than getting distracted by price discourse.

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Creativity, Desirability & Miu Miu's Success

• DNA and Inclusivity:

  • Miu Miu’s sustained appeal is credited to its “rebellious” and authentic DNA, and an inclusive philosophy.
  • [11:11] Guerra: “Miu Miu is a rebellious brand since its birth ... It’s something that you want to wear every day. And it’s an inclusive brand. ... There is no distance between the brand and the consumers and the clients.”
  • New store concepts reinforce hospitality, approachability, and community, overturning luxury’s reputation for exclusivity and rigidity.

• Customer Experience in Store:

  • Miu Miu’s Bond Street London store described as a “salotto” or lounge, a social environment where guests can linger comfortably.
  • [12:49] Guerra: “It’s a place where to stay ... where hospitality, where community, where people are just talking between themselves. You can try things on. There is no stiffness.”

• Quality Perception and Influencer Criticism:

  • When asked about influencer complaints over Miu Miu quality, Guerra stresses transparency and pride in the group’s manufacturing standards.
  • [14:28] Guerra: “I can tell you that everything is scrutinized ... and I can invite you whenever you want to examine our net promoter scores and quality index on after service and being totally relaxed about that.”

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Growth, Restraint, and Future of Miu Miu

• On Managing Explosive Growth:
  • Expectation of growth normalization with a disciplined approach to expansion.
  • [15:51] Guerra: “We are normalizing our growth. ... We have entered the period of 24 months of nos. ... That’s the moment where you have to resist. That’s the moment where you need patience. ... We are trying to do all of this.”

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The Versace Acquisition

• Strategic Rationale:

  • Versace is complementary both aesthetically and in consumer base, with deep cultural roots and proven innovation.
  • [17:33] Guerra: “Versace is a fantastic, Italian, authentic, unique, credible brand which has a huge complementary role inside our group. ... There is a complement there.”
  • Acquisition is seen as a long-term opportunity with a patient approach to transformation, not expecting quick wins.

• Handling the Transition:

  • Immediate focus will be on stability for the brand and employees. Patience emphasized in integrating Versace.
  • [20:16] Guerra: “Stability is a very important word. ... We are going to care about everyone working in Versace ... The only thing I don’t want to happen is to kill the patience while you cure it.”

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Succession Planning & Prada’s Future

• Generational Transition:

  • Guerra discusses his role in facilitating leadership transition, working with three generations of the Prada family.
  • [21:25] Guerra: “To imagine that a first generation shareholder and founder has created such a journey. ... There is no calendar. ... Lorenzo would love to have a more executive role in the Versace journey.”

• Prada’s Distinctive Culture:

  • The family’s progressive approach and the brand’s culture of open debate are key to its resilience and creativity.
  • [23:00] Guerra: “It’s a total constant confrontation and change of opinions. This is how things are born in the Prada brand. And I love it.”

• Creative and Business Tension:

  • Prada thrives on tension between creativity and brand DNA; such “positive friction” is necessary for ongoing vitality.
  • [23:57] Guerra: “Behind [successful brands] there is a history of relationship and tension between a DNA of a brand and a creativity impulse. ... In the long term must be a positive equation.”

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Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On What Prada Sells:

  • [25:14] Guerra: “When you are buying a Prada product, you are buying an opinion. And I’m happy that you’re buying an opinion.”

• On Core Industry Shift:

  • [06:55] Guerra: “If we are here discussing prices, we have an issue. We are here for something else. We are here for creating exclusivity. ... We are here for creating a dream. ... If we discuss about pricing, I failed on the first part.”

• On Miu Miu’s Store Experience:

  • [12:49] Guerra: “It’s a place where to stay. ... Where hospitality, where community, where people are just talking between themselves. You can try things on. There is no stiffness. There is no rigidity.”

• On Internal Debate as Strength:

  • [23:08] Guerra: “Prada is culture. Culture is discussion, culture is opinions. ... The more you’re discussed, the more you’re able to be influenced by other people’s opinions. I think this is unbelievably fruitful.”

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Segment Timestamps

• Brand Realness and Cultural Involvement – [00:49 – 01:49]
• State of Luxury Business Model & Leadership – [02:20 – 06:02]
• Pricing Strategies & Industry Trends – [06:02 – 10:24]
• Creativity, Miu Miu’s Resurgence, Store Experience – [10:40 – 14:28]
• Quality, Influencer Criticism, Growth Restraint – [14:28 – 16:27]
• Versace Acquisition Strategy & Transition – [16:33 – 20:51]
• Succession Planning & Prada’s Debate Culture – [20:51 – 25:26]
• Closing Reflection on Prada’s Value Proposition – [25:14]

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Summary Tone & Style

Throughout the episode, Andrea Guerra is direct, insightful, and occasionally wry—demonstrating clear conviction in Prada’s philosophy and steely resolve about returning luxury to its roots. Imran Ahmed brings a persistent, inquisitive angle, challenging Guerra on difficult topics like pricing and growth, but Guerra remains unwavering in emphasizing creativity, heritage, and culture over short-term wins or industry fads.

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For Listeners Who Missed the Episode...

This conversation offers an unfiltered look into the state of luxury through the eyes of Prada Group’s CEO. Guerra calls for a refocusing on fundamentals—dream-building, emotional resonance, and authentic connection to culture—while openly discussing the temptations of industry overreach, the pitfalls and opportunities of rising prices, and the intricacies of integrating another powerhouse like Versace. Rather than offering tactical fixes, Guerra advocates for patience, creative tension, and relentless fidelity to brand DNA as the path forward for Prada and the wider luxury industry.

Transcript

[A]

Foreign. Hi, this is Imran Ahmed, founder and CEO of the business of Fashion. Welcome to the BOF podcast. It's Friday, November 21st. Our team has just returned from BoF Voices 2025, our 10th annual gathering for big thinkers. In the coming weeks, we will be sharing some of the most inspirational and insightful conversations here on the BoF podcast. First up is Prada Group CEO Andrea Guerra. Over the last two years, demand for luxury fashion has softened as aspirational shoppers have pulled back and consumer fatigue has crept in. Yet Prada Group has continued to grow by prioritizing brand DNA, employing disciplined curation, and creating strong connections to contemporary culture.

[B]

What you have to consider about the Prada brand is that it's real. When I'm talking about culture, we are doing culture ourselves. I mean, through the art foundation, the exhibitions you have there, it's not. We are taking a painter in the foundations. No, there is an idea. When you think about cinema, when you think about architecture, when you think about sports. We're not sponsoring sports.

[A]

We're not.

[B]

We are doing the America's Cup. The team is ours. So this is the way this brand lives.

[A]

This week on the BOF podcast, I quiz Mr. Guerra on the luxury business model. From developing pricing strategies to the importance of creative tension and cultural relevance. Here's a conversation with Andrea Guerra recorded live at BoF Voices on the BoF podcast. Ciao, Andrea.

[B]

Buongiorno.

[A]

Welcome. I remember our very first conversation. You and I had an incredible chat. I left that chat thinking, I wish every executive was as straight a shooter, as honest with their opinions as you are. So my humble request to you today is that you continue your straight shooting and your honesty, because I really think our industry can benefit from someone who calls it like he sees it.

[B]

I'll do my best.

[A]

So my first question. Is the luxury business model broken?

[B]

I think that this question is absolutely valid, but we can put it in a very different manner as well. I mean, we're asking this today, but on the other side, we have not asked us too many questions for two decades of constant growth. I mean, we were all happy. We were all thinking that we were the best. We were creating a new world. But each industry has its own rules at the end. So we need to be happy of what we have been living for the past two decades. And on the other side, we need to go through this. And what we are seeing is that certain rules are there. And if we have tried to overrule some of those, we probably need to go back.

[A]

You mean we've broken certain rules.

[B]

I think it's not a question of broken, but maybe we have gone. I mean, there are certain things about luxury and fashion that we constantly say. One is patience. Maybe we have not been so patient. And we have to go back to some textbooks, we have to go back to some rules. We have to rediscover certain things that 10 years ago were obvious and then we forgot and maybe we have been a little bit spoiled.

[A]

So if that's the case, how do you as a leader navigate this moment when you're having conversations with your teams, when you're interacting with Mrs. Prada and Mr. Bertelli and. And Lorenzo Bertelli, when you're trying to manage all of the constituents?

[B]

We are debating.

[A]

Okay.

[B]

Oh, yes, famous Prada group debates.

[A]

So talk us about the. Talk to us. What are the debates you're having with them?

[B]

So first of all, I think that and having gone through some different sectors, we are leaving this world since some time. It's not the last year or the last couple of years. I mean, since the first globalization wave and interaction wave has gone through, anything can happen every day. So this is my mantra. Anything can happen every day, positive or negative. So at the end, there are certain rules. The first is we need to focus on few things. And these few things are the obvious ones. But we need to do it better every day. And it's your brand, it's long term. It's desirability of your products and your ability to excite dreams. You need to focus on these things, which means you need to simplify. You need to simplify what you're doing. I mean, brands have gone all over in the past 10 years. And I think that today it's a time that you simplify and you do your own things. I mean, you have a DNA, your brand is a DNA, and that DNA cannot be killed or overrun in the long term. It can be for some years. You can stretch it somewhere for some years, but that's your brand, that's your area. This is where people are recognizing you. This is where you are authentic. So you need to go back there and there are certain things we need to do better again. But better again means to go back some years.

[A]

We had some quite honest conversations about brands overstretching, particularly when it came to pricing. And I asked you, Andrea, when we were having dinner one day, I think in London, I said, well, when you're seeing the pricing strategies across the industry, I mean, for me, this is like the thing I just, I just can't get. I Can't. It doesn't make sense to me. How do you make sense of the fact that prices in some cases have gone up 100% in five years for certain core items, including, by the way, the Galleria bag at Prada, which is like an icon bag, which the price has gone up quite a bit. How do you justify that to customers? Because everyone has said to me, oh, our material costs have gone up and this costs have gone up. And it was Covid. And. But what people can't seem to understand is the pricing.

[B]

So if we are here discussing prices, we have an issue. We are here for something else. We are here for creating exclusivity. We're here to creating a dream. We're here to creating emotions. We are here to creating value behind a product, an idea and a brand. And for some, this has gone upside down. I think that what we have been able to do is always being able to understand that society is always more stretched, let's put it this way. So you have certain prices that maybe can even be higher if you are able to behave and to deliver that dream. And there are certain prices where you need to be careful. And I think there is not one way. It's a range. And in that range, you need to be comfortable, and your clients and consumers must be comfortable. That is how I see it. Then it's obvious that in many different parts of the world, but in so many industries, you had a kind of inflationary moment after Covid, but that's over.

[A]

Yeah, it's over, but the prices are the same. And I guess I wonder like, if I feel like some of the brands have painted themselves into a corner, which is like, you know, I've increased the price by this much. What do you do now when the customer is saying, you know, I don't accept this price.

[B]

If you, if you look to the brands, everyone is reacting. So obviously, if you had that certain bag of those, certain brands at that certain prices, those are there. But if you look how ranges are moving, they're moving in a very different manner today.

[A]

Okay, so talk to us about how you're managing and thinking about those ranges in the product group.

[B]

Again, I want to discuss about this ability, creativity, innovation, our ability to tell people about emotions. I want to discuss about this. I don't want to discuss about price ranges. I mean, what is it about?

[A]

Well, I think the customer is quite interested in talking about price ranges, but. Okay, I will, I will stop harping on that point, because I do, I do go ahead.

[B]

But the point is, if we are discuss again, I will repeat it. We are in a different industry where if I'm not able to sell you an emotion, then we discuss about pricing. If we discuss about pricing, I failed on the first part.

[A]

So you're saying that we failed on creativity, emotion, desirability. So price has become first front of mind.

[B]

I think some brands have been spoiled by certain trends in the industry. I want to be clear with this.

[A]

What trends?

[B]

We discussed about inflation. I mean, at a certain stage for some brands it was easy just to increase prices.

[A]

So that's why they're calling it greedflation.

[B]

I don't know. Because in any case those have been very. I mean we cannot forget that we have gone through very peculiar three or four years of our life. So things have happened and we're back to normal.

[A]

Okay, now let's talk about creativity, desirability. Miu Miu has been a phenomenon. You know, it has been something of the breakout story of the industry. I mean we've had like very steady growth. You know, some of the people earlier were talking about from like stalwart brands like Hermes. But the explosive growth and desire around the Miu Miu brand. Now that you have a bit of hindsight, what do you attribute that to?

[B]

So first of all, Miu miu has turned 30 and has always grown except a teenager growth issue for two or three years. That can happen. And I think that that was the moment in which there has been a debate, a discussion. And what we are seeing today is the fruit of those conversations and that discussion. I mean, Miu Miu has a very specific DNA. I mean Miu Miu is a rebellious brand since its birth. It's a Genuine Creativity by Mrs. Prada is a real brand. I mean it's something you want to wear every day. It's not a specific thing for a specific moment of life. But it's something that you want to wear every day. And it's an inclusive brand. What do I mean by inclusive? There is no distance between the brand and the consumers and the clients. The way we have been building and it's very well reflected in our newly remade. Now it's six months new Bond street store in London where you go on floor one and it's a salotto.

[A]

What is that?

[B]

It's a place. It's a club.

[A]

A club.

[B]

It's a place where to stay. I mean you want to stay there the whole day. Please do. Where hospitality, where community, where people are just talking between themselves. You can try things on. There is no stiffness. There Is no rigidity. Even in our very high price events, very exclusive events, you will never find stuff if.

[A]

Is there a big security guard outside?

[B]

I don't think so.

[A]

Okay. Because for me that is the sign of like how seriously luxury brands have started to take themselves.

[B]

But I mean it can be because in any case it's. I mean it's valuable things you're sell.

[A]

So do they make people wait in a line even if there's nobody in the store?

[B]

Not us.

[A]

I mean, because I really appreciate this point about approachability because when you do go into a Miu Miu store, I haven't been to the new Bond street store in some time. Via Monte Napoleone, the store that kind of opens on one side on Napoleon and one side on.

[B]

No, no, it's Via del Espiga. Via Santandre.

[A]

Okay. Via Santandrea. Exactly. There's a kind of relaxed feeling in the store.

[B]

This is what I want to say.

[A]

You know, it's not stiff. It is not stiff and it feels approachable. The prices are not all easy. They're quite stiff. And recently, you know, a few influencers were like posting stuff on the Internet saying that they had paid thousands of euros or dollars for Miu Mi products that didn't meet their expectations. How do you respond to feedback like that?

[B]

So my friend, I love influencers. They're doing their job. Not. I mean each one of us can make mistakes or having a bad experience. I mean I'm full of doubts and I'm full of mistakes. But I can tell you that the quality. I mean we are a very special group. We are a group where brand and creativity has its own pillars. And on the other side we have been from day number one a huge industrial group. I can tell you that everything is scrutinized and I can invite you whenever you want to examine our net promoter scores and quality index on after service and being totally relaxed about that. I am sorry that the person can have a bad experience and I will try my best to cure it.

[A]

I'm going to send you an email and connect you to Wisdom K because he Please do pretty unhappy. Please do so looking to next year I asked this question.

[B]

I'm unhappy of many different things in life.

[A]

Wisdom's lovely. He's not going to be like mean but so can Mew Mew continue to grow like this?

[B]

I mean it's a question I've been asked for the past 24 months. We are normalizing our growth. I think we got still huge opportunity. We have entered the period of 24 months of nos. I mean, you know, when you are having success, everyone is offering you something and that's the moment where you have to resist. That's the moment where you need patience. That's the moment where you don't need to expand your space. Like hell. And we are trying to do all of this.

[A]

Yes. To avoid getting greedy, basically.

[B]

Avoid making mistakes. Avoiding making too many mistakes. I'm sure we made some.

[A]

Okay, so clearly one topic that everybody is interested to hear from you about is Versace. And you and I met in January at the Fondazione Prada for our seasonal post show chit chat. And there were these rumors in the market that Versace was on the block and that Prada might be looking at it. And at the time you weren't particularly sure or confident that this was a transaction that would actually happen. Now we're literally days away from the transaction closing. It's been approved by the regulators. What in the end was the rationale for the Prada group acquire Versace? At a time when the industry is entering a very uncertain phase and with a history where historically Prada had owned Jill Sander and other brands that didn't work out, why bribe Versace now?

[B]

So when opportunities arise, you look at them, you study them and you catch them if they are great, valuable opportunities. Versace is a fantastic, Italian, authentic, unique, credible brand which has a huge complementary role inside our group. I mean it's hitting different aesthetics, different consumer basis. But on the other side has some very similar things to us. It's a brand that was born in culture. It's a brand that was born in classic, historic, Greek, Mediterranean, ancient roots. So there is a complement there. And on the other side, let's not forget that Versace has created what we're seeing every day. This glam, this pop music model, supermodels. I mean it has been a huge innovative brand. Has been. So what I'm happy when we started looking at it is that there is not broken things, but there are things which have been managed for quite some time in a certain way. And I think that we have an opportunity and the opportunity is long term. I mean, I'm not expecting any kind of result, any tangible nomadic result tomorrow morning. We have fixed certain milestones which are very important. But it will take time and we have the patience. We have seen it with Miu Miu. We have the patience to do it. So let's go for it.

[A]

What will you keep from what is happening at Versace now and what will you need to work on changing and in particular, I think about. We had the debut of a designer. I sent you my feedback email because you asked me for it on what I thought of that show, Dario Vitale's debut show, which for me was just. I mean, if you feel a fashion moment and you're at a show like I just felt this fashion moment, how are you thinking about the creative side and the business side of the leadership of that brand?

[B]

So first of all, it's. I cannot really speak about it. I mean, it's not our brand today.

[A]

Not yet, but in like two days or three days or something.

[B]

I think it's a little bit longer. Not all authorizations have come in.

[A]

Okay.

[B]

I'm not worried about anything of it. So I think that especially at the beginning, stability is a very important word. And this is what we are going to do. We are going to care about everyone working in Versace and we're going to care about everything that is happening in Versace. The only thing I don't want to happen is to kill the patients while you cure it. So we have to do something which is brilliant, which is intelligent and has a huge patient effect inside.

[A]

Okay. One of the reasons that you were brought into the Prada group was always as kind of a bridge, succession planning, thinking about the future. And you're in this very unique role because you work with three very influential family members who are kind of the past, present and future of the Prada group. How do you see a role evolving now? And what can we expect in terms of leadership and succession planning in the group? Is it something imminent?

[B]

So first of all, I would like to underline one thing. To imagine that a first generation shareholder and founder has created such a journey. I mean, this is a progressive thinking and decision. So I love it. I love the fact that there is a journey. It's clear, it's obvious. And there is no calendar. Absolutely, there is no calendar. I think Lorenzo would love to have a more executive role in the Versace journey.

[A]

Does that mean he could be the CEO?

[B]

No, no, no, no. I'm talking about more an executive chairman.

[A]

Or something like that.

[B]

Let's see. But for sure he will be much more involved in the Versace journey. So what are we talking about? We're talking about a family that from a intelligence point of view, from a thinking point of view, is imagining the future. In this future, there are so many different decisions that have been taken which are far away from any Italian first generation company. So here we are. I'm happy. It's a generous Job from my side. And this is what I'm trying to do. I'm trying to lead a company. I'm trying to keep the pieces together. I am in the middle of this wonderful Prada group. Confrontations, debates and discussions that at the.

[A]

End, to be a fly on the wall of those discussions, you know, that.

[B]

Is part of the Prada philosophy.

[A]

Yeah.

[B]

Prada is culture. Culture is discussion, Culture is opinions. Culture is being able to. I mean, the more you're discussed, the more you're able to be influenced by other people opinions. I think this is unbelievable, fruitful. This is not a vertical thing that one says. This is it. No, it's a total constant confrontation and change of opinions. This is how things are born in the Prada brand. And I love it.

[A]

That tension, that friction that you have between the different members of the family, between the creative side and the business side, I mean that fundamentally. And the conversation, by the way, that the Prada brands have within culture and with culture, is that the magic?

[B]

I mean, the magic. And you can see it in each brand which is being successful in such times. And you see that behind it there is a history of relationship and tension between a DNA of a brand and a creativity impulse. And this tension in the long term must be a positive equation. If ways, one of the two ways, you can be too conservative or you can go out of your road. So I think that this is it. And the Prada needs this kind of thing because it's such a polydric brand and it's such a real brand. I mean, what you have to consider about the Prada brand is that it's real. When I'm talking about culture, we are doing culture ourselves. I mean, through the art foundation, the exhibitions you have there, it's not we are taking a painter in the foundations. No, there is an idea. When you think about cinema, when you think about architecture, when you think about sports, we're not sponsoring sports. We are doing the America's Cup. The team is ours. So this is the way this brand lives. When you are buying a Prada product, you are buying an opinion. And I'm happy that you're buying an opinion.

[A]

Thank you, Mr. Guerra.

[B]

It's a pleasure.

[A]

Thank you. The BoF podcast is edited and produced by Olivia Davies and Eric Brea.

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