Podcast Summary: Redefining "Made in Africa"

Podcast Information:

• Title: The Business of Fashion Podcast
• Host/Author: The Business of Fashion
• Episode: Redefining "Made in Africa"
• Release Date: May 16, 2025

Overview: In the episode titled "Redefining 'Made in Africa,'" The Business of Fashion (BoF) delves into the dynamic transformation of Africa's fashion industry. Hosted by Imran Ahmed and featuring insightful conversations with prominent African fashion entrepreneurs—Maryse Bonimutwa of Pink Mango (Rwanda), Laduma Nokolo of Maxosa Africa (South Africa), and Renee Folawio of Alara (Nigeria)—the discussion centers on Africa's unique contributions to global fashion, the integration of sustainability in manufacturing, and the evolving perception of "Made in Africa."

1. Africa's Rising Fashion Landscape

Imran Ahmed sets the stage by highlighting Africa's burgeoning middle class and the increasing global focus on the continent's creative and commercial potential. He emphasizes the dual challenge African fashion entrepreneurs face: navigating operational hurdles and combating misconceptions about the quality and reputation of products labeled "Made in Africa."

[00:04] Imran Ahmed: "Africa is experiencing an exciting shift creatively and commercially with growing global attention on its rapidly expanding middle class population. Yet local fashion entrepreneurs must navigate unique operational challenges and misconceptions about the quality and reputation of made in Africa."

2. Addressing Sustainability in Manufacturing

Maryse Bonimutwa, founder and CEO of Pink Mango in Rwanda, shares her journey into apparel manufacturing aimed at promoting both economic and social sustainability. She underscores the importance of aligning environmental and social sustainability, positioning Africa as a natural canvas for sustainable practices due to its abundant and youthful workforce.

[00:43] Maryse Bonimutwa: "Africa is here to offer the social sustainability, to make sure that now when we talk about environmental sustainability and social sustainability, they are aligned."

Maryse elaborates on the operational challenges, such as high labor costs and the need for ethical labor practices. She introduces the concept of "ubuntability," a term she coined to reflect the African philosophy of interconnectedness and collective responsibility.

[22:54] Maryse Bonimutwa: "When you hear Made in Africa in the future, we are now building business models that are anchored in our own culture in Ubuntu. And I've even coined the word ubuntability. Ubuntability should be our personal and collective responsibility in the African philosophy of I am, because we are."

3. Celebrating African Creativity Through Retail

Renee Folawio, the visionary behind Alara in Nigeria, discusses her mission to celebrate and elevate African creators both on the continent and in the diaspora. Alara serves as a cultural hub, intertwining lifestyle, art, and design to provide a platform for African talent. Renee emphasizes the importance of curating a dynamic and ever-evolving retail experience that reflects the diverse creativity of Africa.

[07:52] Renee Folawio: "We wanted to say, what is the essence of what you do? What does it bring to the continent? What does it bring to the people of the continent? Who is it empowering?"

Renee also highlights the global recognition Alara has received, with invitations to prestigious venues like the Brooklyn Museum and the Los Angeles Community Museum, demonstrating Africa's growing influence in the global fashion scene.

4. Preserving Cultural Heritage in Modern Fashion

Laduma Nokolo, founder of Maxosa Africa, delves into how his brand marries traditional South African designs with modern aesthetics. His approach not only preserves cultural heritage but also addresses pressing issues such as unemployment and environmental sustainability. Laduma shares his inspiration drawn from the Xhosa community's beadwork, transforming traditional motifs into contemporary luxury knitwear.

[13:00] Laduma Nokolo: "How do we take local traditional aesthetic and modernize them, but yet at the same time address the big problem that we have in South Africa Africa of unemployment and also considering environmental consciousness?"

Laduma underscores the importance of redefining "Made in Africa" to signify excellence and prestige, challenging the preconceived notion that African products are inherently cheap.

[17:57] Laduma Nokolo: "Made in Africa in general should carry prestige and not cheap. It's not cheap. Yes. There's a bad perception that anything that is made in Africa should be reasonably priced or cheap."

5. Redefining "Made in Africa"

The conversation pivots to the broader implications of the "Made in Africa" label. Roseanne Ahmed poses a critical question about the immediate associations that should come to mind when the world hears "Made in Africa," drawing parallels to established labels like "Made in Italy" or "Made in France."

[17:57] Laduma Nokolo: "Black excellence. And of course we have a lot of unlearning to do because as the great writer Ben Okri puts it, that there are three types of Africa... we choose to be in the Africa that keeps evolving with possibilities."

Renee Folawio adds that "Made in Nigeria" should evoke thoughts of couture, craftsmanship, and glamour, highlighting the nation's rich tradition of made-to-measure clothing and everyday couture.

[19:55] Renee Folawio: "Couture. Craftsmanship. Glamour."

6. The Path Forward: Ubuntu and Ubuntability

Maryse Bonimutwa introduces the concept of "Pink Ubuntu," a corporate social responsibility program grounded in the African philosophy of Ubuntu—"I am because we are." This initiative aims to establish Africa's first factory-grown social standard, emphasizing collective responsibility and cultural values in business practices.

[22:54] Roseanne Ahmed: "Made in Rwanda... Ubuntability, lovely."

7. Concluding Thoughts

The episode wraps up with a reflection on Africa's identity in the global fashion industry. The guests collectively advocate for a paradigm shift where "Made in Africa" is synonymous with quality, sustainability, and cultural richness. They emphasize the importance of African-led initiatives in shaping the continent's fashion narrative and its position on the global stage.

[23:13] Roseanne Ahmed: "I once said in an interview that the global south and Africa included isn't necessarily forging anew, but finally and rapidly remembering who they are. So thank you all very much for the return."

Key Takeaways:

• Sustainability: Africa is uniquely positioned to integrate both environmental and social sustainability in its fashion manufacturing processes.
• Cultural Heritage: Preserving and modernizing traditional African designs can drive global recognition and support local economies.
• Perception Shift: Redefining the "Made in Africa" label to reflect excellence, craftsmanship, and prestige is crucial for elevating African brands on the world stage.
• Collective Responsibility: Embracing philosophies like Ubuntu can foster a business culture rooted in collective success and social responsibility.

Notable Quotes:

• Maryse Bonimutwa [00:43]: "Africa is here to offer the social sustainability, to make sure that now when we talk about environmental sustainability and social sustainability, they are aligned."
• Laduma Nokolo [17:57]: "Made in Africa in general should carry prestige and not cheap."
• Renee Folawio [19:55]: "Couture. Craftsmanship. Glamour."
• Maryse Bonimutwa [22:54]: "Ubuntability should be our personal and collective responsibility in the African philosophy of I am, because we are."

This episode of The Business of Fashion Podcast offers a comprehensive exploration of Africa's evolving fashion industry, highlighting the continent's potential to lead in sustainable and culturally rich fashion manufacturing. Through the experiences and insights of leading African entrepreneurs, listeners gain a deeper understanding of the challenges and opportunities that define "Made in Africa" today.