
The market for gustatory pain is surprisingly competitive. Zachary Crockett feels the burn. This episode was originally published on January 7th, 2024.
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Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
A few months ago, Ed Curry found himself lying down in the pouring rain in a state of agony. His heart was beating fast, his arms were numb and his mouth felt like it was on fire.
Ed Curry (Pepper Farmer)
The heat pain lasted for about two hours and then the cramps set in and that lasted for about four more to the point where just couldn't even move the cramps hurt so bad.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
Curry had brought this suffering upon himself. He had just tasted the fruit of his own labor. A hybrid chili pepper grown on his farm in South Carolina.
Ed Curry (Pepper Farmer)
It's about the size of a golf ball. It's covered in bumps and spikes and it just looks like an apple that has gone through a Frankenstein. The oil gives it kind of a yellowish flemmy tinge and it's just a brutal pepper. It's ugly.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
This little nugget of pure torture is called Pepper X. It's up to 1,000 times hotter than a jalapeno and its kick is more powerful than most brands of police grade pepper spray. It recently set a Guinness world record for the hottest chili pepper ever measured in a lab. For Curry, Pepper X is the culmination of more than 20 years of cross breeding. Peppers aren't just his hobby, they're his livelihood. And the hotter they are, the better for business.
Ed Curry (Pepper Farmer)
By making things hotter, we can produce products that are in your grocery store right now at a cheaper cost. It's about economies of scale.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
For the Freakonomics radio network, this is the economics of everyday things. I'm Zachary Crockett. Today, the world's hottest peppers. Before Ed Curry was growing hot peppers, he was on a path to self destruction.
Ed Curry (Pepper Farmer)
I was a big fat, sloppy drunk pig and I was smoking two packs of cigarettes a day, drinking all day long straight liquor from, you know, probably five in the morning all the way through till about midnight and doing whatever drugs I could get my hands on.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
As he tells it one day in 1982, he ventured into a Vietnamese restaurant in Michigan, where he was living at the time, and asked for the spiciest food they had. The peppers they served him gave him an unexpected rush.
Ed Curry (Pepper Farmer)
The buzz I got from eating the super hot stuff, you know, the endorphin rush that got me started on my journey.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
Curry started chasing a new high, the high of spicy chili peppers.
Ed Curry (Pepper Farmer)
I was writing letters to all these different government agencies around the world saying, I'd like some pepper seeds. You know, I'm studying peppers. And they'd send letters back. Different peppers from India, different peppers from the Middle east and Africa, stuff from South America and Central America and the islands.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
Curry eventually took a job in finance. But growing peppers with all those seeds was his true passion. And in his circle of friends, he became known as a culinary sadist.
Ed Curry (Pepper Farmer)
The running joke was, if Ed says, try this, don't do it.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
Thousands of years ago, chilies were a staple of food and medicine throughout Central and South America. After Christopher Columbus took seeds back to Europe at the end of the 15th century, peppers spread around the world, and what people liked about them was always their kick.
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It's the only truly healthy addiction that I can think of. When you eat peppers, you're hurting yourself, and the body naturally reacts to that by producing endorphins.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
That's Stephanie Walker. She's a professor at New Mexico State University who has studied chili peppers for more than 35 years. She says there's a common misconception that the heat in peppers comes from the seeds, but it actually comes mostly from chemicals stored in the placenta, that whitish core that's inside of the pepper.
The Hartford Commercial Narrator
It's a very unique set of chemicals known as the capsaicinoids. And depending on the type of pepper and how hot it is, they're going to have different complements of these capsaicinoids.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
There are six different capsaicinoids in total, but the one that tends to impart the most heat is simply called capsaicin. When you eat a pepper, this capsaicin binds to receptors in your mouth. And those receptors send a signal to your brain that basically says, what the hell are you doing?
The Hartford Commercial Narrator
It's the same receptors in our mouth that sense thermal heat. So you're actually getting the same sensation as if you burn yourself eating some very hot soup or very hot coffee.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
Researchers measure this heat in something called Scoville heat units. You might see that term on bottles of hot sauce or packets of seeds. It's a way to quantify just how much capsaicin is in a pepper. The peppers in your grocery store have quite a wide range.
The Hartford Commercial Narrator
A jalapeno is typically around 5,000 Scoville heat units, Although that can be lower or higher depending on the environmental conditions. A typical habanero pepper is about 300,000 Scoville heat units.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
For many years, experts thought that 500,000 Scoville heat units was about as hot as a pepper could possibly get. But in 2001, one of Walker's colleagues at New Mexico state University stumbled across a pepper in India called the Bhoot Jolokia. It was so hot that it would later be used by India's military to make non lethal hand grenades. To the western world, it became known as the ghost pepper.
The Hartford Commercial Narrator
That was more than a million Scoville heat units. He got the Guinness book of world records for the hottest pepper and then let the games begin.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
After the ghost pepper got the world's attention, breeders, some professional, others hobbyists, began to compete for the title of the world's hottest pepper. Records were set and broken again and again, sometimes just months later. Peppers with names like the infinity Chili, the Naga viper, and the Trinidad Scorpion Butch tea pushed heat levels into the realm of torture. This new wave of peppers was given a super hot.
The Hartford Commercial Narrator
So a super hot is a type of pepper, the General category above 1 million Scoville heat units. They're definitely too hot for many people, but there is a segment of the population that just really loves these super hot, extremely high scoville heat unit peppers.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
That includes Ed Curry.
Ed Curry (Pepper Farmer)
I get a buzz from eating peppers. I eat stuff that normal people won't even go near. I'm getting a huge dopamine drop from, you know, eating really super hot stuff.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
For most of the 80s and 90s, Curry's peppers took a back seat to his drinking problem.
Ed Curry (Pepper Farmer)
I was more interested in getting to the bar at lunchtime and getting out of work and going to the bar at dinner.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
But by the early 2000s, he had gone through rehab. He worked in a video store, a butcher shop, and eventually he was pulled back into the world of chili peppers by love.
Ed Curry (Pepper Farmer)
I saw a woman, and every time I saw her, my stomach felt sick and my chest felt tight. So I whipped up some peach mango salsa for this event we were having. And she said, who made the salsa? And we started talking. She moved me into her house, like four months later, and within two weeks of that, I had 1100 plants growing in her yard.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
Curry sold hot sauce and salsa at farmers markets in South Carolina. The reaction was so good that he decided to make his business official.
Ed Curry (Pepper Farmer)
It became the Pucker Butt Pepper Company because everybody said when they eat my stuff, it made their butt pucker, you know?
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
Curry's pepper growing operation eventually expanded to a dedicated farm. He grew dozens of different types of peppers from all over the world and crossbred his own varieties by transferring pollen between peppers.
Ed Curry (Pepper Farmer)
I wasn't looking to make something hot, but it turned out that these breeds I was doing were getting hotter and hotter and hotter because of the parents that I was using in the breeds.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
One of these new breeds in particular stood out. He called it the Carolina Reaper.
Ed Curry (Pepper Farmer)
The first time I had, they knocked me to my knees, you know, it was blazing hot. It was the first time I felt like I was high after I got clean.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
Curry knew he had something special on his hands. So in 2013, he took it to a local university and had it tested. It clocked in at an average of 1.64 million Scoville heat units. That was a new world record, and it stood for the next 10 years. So what exactly is a world record setting Pepper worth? That's coming up.
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Ed Curry (Pepper Farmer)
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Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
There's never been a better time to grow the world's hottest peppers. For starters, there's a thriving community of super hot pepper enthusiasts who call themselves Chiliheads. They convene in Facebook groups with names like Pepper Freaks. They make viral videos of themselves crying after eating peppers. And they attend pepper eating contests where competitors with nicknames like Iron Guts and Atomic Menace choke down hundreds of superhots in one sitting.
Ed Curry (Pepper Farmer)
On all the pepper groups, the people who supposedly eat super hot stuff, there's maybe 50 to 100,000 people worldwide.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
But that might not seem like enough people to support farmers like Ed Curry. Fortunately, there's another market for their peppers, the $3 billion hot sauce business. When manufacturers make sauces, they start with a concoction called mash. It's basically diced peppers and salt. And on their end, there's a business case for buying mash made with the hottest peppers in the world.
Ed Curry (Pepper Farmer)
With the very hot stuff, there's an economy of scale. So you can use just a little bit, get the flavor, get the heat. They figure out that they can switch one 5 gallon bucket of Carolina Reaper for ten 55 gallon drums of salt mash and get the same heat profile.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
Curry's company, Puckerbutt, sells mash wholesale to more than 100 companies. It also produces its own line of hot sauces and helps other brands develop them too. One of the more well known entities that Curry works with is Hot Ones. It's a popular YouTube show where celebrities get interviewed while eating increasingly spicier hot wings.
Ed Curry (Pepper Farmer)
We make their mildest sauces and we make their hottest sauces. You know, there's recipes that I came up with that we manufacture and their label goes on it and they sell it all over the world to produce
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
all of this sauce. Curry now runs more than 100 acres of pepper farmland in South Carolina, and He grows nearly 8,000 varieties of peppers. He says Pucker Butt isn't quite at the top of the hot sauce kingdom, but it's up there.
Ed Curry (Pepper Farmer)
We're probably the largest, small tier, you know, middle tier hot sauce maker in the country. I mean, there's the big boys like Tabasco and Frank's and you know, Cholula, the step below them, we're probably the biggest.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
Hot sauce isn't the only market for hot peppers. Curry also sells pepper seeds that end up at Lowe's, Home Depot and Walmarts all over the country. The margins on those seeds are so good that one food historian says hot Chili peppers have the potential to rival marijuana as the highest grossing crop per acre altogether. Curry says Puckerbutt now brings in north of $5 million in sales a year. It's a lucrative business and that means that Curry has to be very protective of his creations. You can get a patent on a novel plant variety, but it can cost upwards of $25,000. And even with legal protection, Stephanie Walker says it's hard to prevent theft after you patent it.
The Hartford Commercial Narrator
You have to have the legal muscle to protect it. And that can be a big problem for a small scale breeder. If you're selling the peppers with seed intact and you haven't heated them or killed the seed in any way inside, you can easily get viable seed from red chili that's just been naturally dried.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
After Curry set a world record with his Carolina Reaper pepper, he says his peppers began showing up in dozens of products without authorization.
Ed Curry (Pepper Farmer)
You know, companies do what they do and essentially when we reached out to them, they all said sue us. And they thought they could out sue me to the point where some companies took us to court to try to get my trademarks revoked.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
One product that used the Carolina Reaper name was the Pocky One Chip Challenge. It was a little coffin shaped box containing a single extremely spicy chip. And eating one became a viral challenge for kids on the Internet. In September 2023, a a 14 year old boy died after partaking in the challenge and the product was taken off the market. Curry had originally partnered with Paki, but at the time of this incident, he says the Carolina Reaper seasoning the company promoted was no longer provided by Puckerbutt. Paki did not respond to our request for comment. Recently, Curry broke his own world record with a new pepper. He calls it Pepper X. At just under 2.7 million Scoville heat units, it has to be handled with gloves. This time around, Curry intends to protect his intellectual property.
Ed Curry (Pepper Farmer)
I didn't listen to the lawyers when I released the seeds for the Carolina Reaper. I was trying to get some money in the bank, but I listened to the lawyers. Now we're going through a process with some universities to patent the pepper. And so everything is locked down before we release it to the rest of the world. I want to protect my children, okay? Because this is their legacy.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
But for Curry, peppers aren't just a legacy. They're a way of life.
Ed Curry (Pepper Farmer)
You're either going to fight this and go through the pain and get to the next side, or you're going to run away and only feel the pain, you know?
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
After eating Pepper X for the first time, lying down in the rain and enduring stomach cramps for four hours, there was only one thing that Ed Curry wanted to do.
Ed Curry (Pepper Farmer)
I ate more peppers at dinner that night. Cause I'm an idiot.
Zachary Crockett (Host/Narrator)
For the economics of everyday things. Hi, I'm Zachary Crockett. This episode was produced by Sarah Lilly and mixed by Jeremy Johnston. We had help from Daniel Moritz Rapson. Have you ever accidentally touched your eye or peed after handling a pepper?
Ed Curry (Pepper Farmer)
I've done both on multiple occasions every week, and it's not a pleasant experience.
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Ed Curry (Pepper Farmer)
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Host: Zachary Crockett (Freakonomics Network)
Air date: April 16, 2026
This episode dives into the world of “superhot” chili peppers, spotlighting the economics, culture, and science behind breeding the world's hottest peppers. Host Zachary Crockett centers the story on Ed Curry, a pepper farmer whose relentless pursuit of heat has made him both a Guinness World Record holder and an unlikely business success. The show explores the chilihead subculture, the global pepper race, the economics of hot sauce and seeds, and the challenges of protecting intellectual property in agriculture.
Personal Transformation: Ed Curry opens up about his history with alcohol and substance abuse, sharing how a chance encounter with superhot peppers at a Vietnamese restaurant in 1982 started him on a new “high” (03:02).
Quote:
“The buzz I got from eating the super hot stuff, you know, the endorphin rush that got me started on my journey.”
— Ed Curry, 03:16
Building Expertise: Curry becomes obsessed with peppers, writing to government agencies worldwide for seeds, working a finance job by day, and building his pepper collection by night (03:29).
Pepper Anatomy: Dr. Stephanie Walker of New Mexico State University explains chili heat is due to capsaicinoids, especially capsaicin, concentrated in the pepper’s white “placenta” (04:35–04:57).
Scoville Scale: Heat is measured in Scoville Heat Units (SHU), with jalapeños (~5,000 SHU), habaneros (~300,000 SHU), and superhots (over 1 million SHU) (05:38–06:39).
Quote:
"It's the same receptors in our mouth that sense thermal heat. So...you’re actually getting the same sensation as if you burn yourself eating some very hot soup or very hot coffee."
— Stephanie Walker, 05:28
Escalation: After the ghost pepper (Bhoot Jolokia) broke 1 million SHU in 2001, breeders worldwide competed for heat records, introducing superhots like Naga Viper, Trinidad Scorpion, and Curry’s own Carolina Reaper (06:47–07:18).
Carolina Reaper: Ed Curry’s cross-breeding culminated in a pepper that tested at 1.64 million SHU in 2013, holding the Guinness record for 10 years (09:24–10:12).
Quote:
“The first time I had [the Carolina Reaper], they knocked me to my knees…It was the first time I felt like I was high after I got clean.”
— Ed Curry, 09:30
Chilihead Subculture: There are estimated to be 50,000–100,000 superhot enthusiasts globally, with social media and pepper-eating contests fueling the craze (12:20–13:02).
The Real Market: Hot Sauce Industry: Massive demand from the $3 billion hot sauce market. Manufacturers use superhot pepper mash for efficiency and cost (13:02–13:48).
“With the very hot stuff, there’s an economy of scale. So you can use just a little bit, get the flavor, get the heat.”
— Ed Curry, 13:27
Puckerbutt Pepper Company: Curry’s business sells pepper mash to over 100 companies, including the hit YouTube show Hot Ones; operates one of the largest “middle tier” hot sauce makers in the country (14:10–14:55).
Seed Sales: High-margin business selling seeds to retailers (Home Depot, Lowe’s, Walmart). Some experts claim hot peppers may one day rival marijuana as a per-acre cash crop (14:55–15:45).
Protection Challenges: Patenting a novel pepper can cost ~$25,000 and be tough to enforce. Companies have stolen Curry’s breeds for their own products (15:45–16:28).
Viral Products: The “Pocky One Chip Challenge” used Carolina Reaper branding in an internet challenge that led to a teenager’s death and market withdrawal. Puckerbutt was no longer involved, but the volatile nature of the business is clear (16:28–17:25).
Pepper X: Curry’s newest pepper, close to 2.7 million SHU, is being legally protected before global release to safeguard his family’s legacy (17:25–17:51).
“I want to protect my children, okay? Because this is their legacy.”
— Ed Curry, 17:43
Philosophy: Curry likens consuming superhots—and his fight for business survival—to persevering through pain to get to “the other side” (17:57).
Quote:
“You’re either going to fight this and go through the pain and get to the next side, or you’re going to run away and only feel the pain, you know?”
— Ed Curry, 17:57
Addicted to the Endorphin Rush: Even after the agony of Pepper X, Curry admits he went back for more that night:
“I ate more peppers at dinner that night. Cause I’m an idiot.”
— Ed Curry, 18:19
“The buzz I got from eating the super hot stuff, you know, the endorphin rush that got me started on my journey.”
— Ed Curry, 03:16
“The running joke was, if Ed says try this, don’t do it.”
— Ed Curry, 04:00
“It’s a very unique set of chemicals known as the capsaicinoids…depending on the type of pepper and how hot it is, they’re going to have different complements of these capsaicinoids.”
— Stephanie Walker, 04:57
“They figure out that they can switch one 5 gallon bucket of Carolina Reaper for ten 55 gallon drums of salt mash and get the same heat profile.”
— Ed Curry, 13:27
“We're probably the largest, small tier, you know, middle tier hot sauce maker in the country… the step below [big brands], we’re probably the biggest.”
— Ed Curry, 14:41
“If you’re selling the peppers with seed intact and you haven’t heated them or killed the seed in any way inside, you can easily get viable seed from red chili that’s just been naturally dried.”
— Stephanie Walker, 15:45
“They all said, ‘sue us.’ And they thought they could out sue me…”
— Ed Curry, 16:14
“I want to protect my children, okay? Because this is their legacy.”
— Ed Curry, 17:43
“I ate more peppers at dinner that night. Cause I'm an idiot.”
— Ed Curry, 18:19
This episode provides a lively look into how the obsession with heat has shaped a unique agricultural arms race, a subculture of thrill-seekers, and a lucrative business in superhot peppers. Ed Curry’s personal story of reinvention, innovation, and resilience is at the heart of it all—he exemplifies how chasing a strange kind of “high” turned pain into purpose and profit. The business of superhot peppers isn’t just about suffering for pleasure; it’s about the enduring struggle to outdo, protect, and persevere.